I put my name in the hat to test this pattern and was all excited when I got Deepika's email. The pattern debuted on PR today, blog post. Pattern is available for purchase and download on PR, here.
Winter Street Dress is an easy to sew knit dress with a waist seam and a narrow pleated skirt. The narrow skirt with inverted box pleats has just the right amount of ease where you need it, resulting in a very comfortable and cute tulip shape. The bodice is drafted for a "C" cup. There is a choice of elbow length flounce sleeves or a full length sleeve. You can even make it without sleeves. The skirt is designed to fall above the knee for a more trendy look but it is super easy to lengthen or shorten it.
|Super cute on Deepika and yes, I know...everything is super cute on her.|
Based on the measurement chart, I decided to sew a straight medium (38B/31W/41H). The pattern comes in XS-4XL (bust of 33" - 49.5"). I printed the entire pattern but only taped together what I needed.
Now, I have to say, this is honestly the best pdf pattern I have assembled to date. I have made pdf patterns from Lekala, Deer & Doe, Maria Denmark, Burda and a couple of kid patterns. There is ALWAYS some spot that doesn't quite line up. All of the pages fit together perfectly for my size medium. So much so that I did not trace off my pattern, I cut it from the assembled sheets.
Knits are my friend. And this pattern only has a few pieces; front bodice, back bodice, skirt and sleeve (flounce if you like). All of the major pieces are cut on the fold. If you are good friends with your serger like I am, you will put this together FAST. I assembled the pattern, cut it out, cut the fabric and had EVERYTHING done except hems in 2 hours.
I *really* like the fit. I like that it isn't A-line (I don't believe the "A-line is good for everyone" bit) and it is meant to fit through the bust and then skim the rest (what we like!).
I made no fitting changes as I wanted to "sew it from the envelope". I decided to use a piece of fabric that had been sitting in the stash, getting dirty looks from me as I didn't know how I was going to use it. Turns out it was the best decision ever!
*I only had my son to take pics so...
The pattern does not include finished measurements. I know how much I love them and that it is important to many sewers to have them. I will say that the medium is designed for a 38" C-cup bust and I am about 39" DD-cup. It's a bit tight at the bust.
The skirt front and back are the same piece and I think I needed a lil' more room in back! It isn't tight but the inverted pleats aren't falling just so like they are supposed to! :)
I *LOVE* the length. For me - it is perfection! I even took a slightly deeper hem than what was suggested.
Mark pleats, baste.
Sew shoulder seams.
<<if sewing the flounce to the sleeves, for all that is good and right in the world, hem them first. Then gather and attach them to the flat sleeve>>
Sew sleeves in flat.
Sew front bodice to front skirt.
Sew back bodice to back skirt.
You can sew the entire everything in one. fell. swoop! Starting at the sleeve seam...down to the bodice...down to the skirt. FAST. FAST. FAST.
I set my neckband in the round and used a small 3/8" hem on the flounce because I liked the length of them. I serged the bottom edge of the skirt (love that built in 1/4" mark), folded up 1" (vs. 5/8") and pressed, and stitched at 3/4". I did a second row of stitching 3/16" from the first (I initially thought I was sewing at 1/8" but nope...that's okay, it works).
Another thing I really liked was the 3/8" seam allowance. I love that about Kwik Sew as well. I hate 5/8" on knits. It's just too much!
|Totally placed the print on purpose. I was so proud of my creative genius!!!|
|I've got flouncy sleeves!|
In the pic on the left, you can see the front is sitting a bit higher. Boobs.
I would definitely make it again using a medium through the neck and shoulders, grading to a large for bust and back to a medium for waist. I'd cut a medium front skirt and add a little more booty room by cutting a large back skirt. I'd like a sleeveless version and I think I have a nice knit for it.
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cleverthinking99.com 4/4/2014 (that's me)