Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Blog Tour: Pattern Review's Winter Street Dress!

So you know that Nakisha + Sewing = YES. Please.

I put my name in the hat to test this pattern and was all excited when I got Deepika's email. The pattern debuted on PR today, blog post.  Pattern is available for purchase and download on PR, here.

Description:
Winter Street Dress is an easy to sew knit dress with a waist seam and a narrow pleated skirt. The narrow skirt with inverted box pleats has just the right amount of ease where you need it, resulting in a very comfortable and cute tulip shape. The bodice is drafted for a "C" cup. There is a choice of elbow length flounce sleeves or a full length sleeve. You can even make it without sleeves. The skirt is designed to fall above the knee for a more trendy look but it is super easy to lengthen or shorten it.


Super cute on Deepika and yes, I know...everything is super cute on her.


Based on the measurement chart, I decided to sew a straight medium (38B/31W/41H). The pattern comes in XS-4XL (bust of 33" - 49.5"). I printed the entire pattern but only taped together what I needed.

Now, I have to say, this is honestly the best pdf pattern I have assembled to date. I have made pdf patterns from Lekala, Deer & Doe, Maria Denmark, Burda and a couple of kid patterns. There is ALWAYS some spot that doesn't quite line up. All of the pages fit together perfectly for my size medium. So much so that I did not trace off my pattern, I cut it from the assembled sheets.

Knits are my friend. And this pattern only has a  few pieces; front bodice, back bodice, skirt and sleeve (flounce if you like). All of the major pieces are cut on the fold. If you are good friends with your serger like I am, you will put this together FAST. I assembled the pattern, cut it out, cut the fabric and had EVERYTHING done except hems in 2 hours.

I *really* like the fit. I like that it isn't A-line (I don't believe the "A-line is good for everyone" bit) and it is meant to fit through the bust and then skim the rest (what we like!).

I made no fitting changes as I wanted to "sew it from the envelope". I decided to use a piece of fabric that had been sitting in the stash, getting dirty looks from me as I didn't know how I was going to use it. Turns out it was the best decision ever!

*I only had my son to take pics so...





The pattern does not include finished measurements. I know how much I love them and that it is important to many sewers to have them. I will say that the medium is designed for a 38" C-cup bust and I am about 39" DD-cup. It's a bit tight at the bust.

The skirt front and back are the same piece and I think I needed a lil' more room in back! It isn't tight but the inverted pleats aren't falling just so like they are supposed to! :)

I *LOVE* the length. For me - it is perfection! I even took a slightly deeper hem than what was suggested.

My Construction:
Mark pleats, baste.
Sew shoulder seams.
<<if sewing the flounce to the sleeves, for all that is good and right in the world, hem them first. Then gather and attach them to the flat sleeve>>
Sew sleeves in flat.
Sew front bodice to front skirt.
Sew back bodice to back skirt.
And then...

THEN...

You can sew the entire everything in one. fell. swoop! Starting at the sleeve seam...down to the bodice...down to the skirt. FAST. FAST. FAST.

I set my neckband in the round and used a small 3/8" hem on the flounce because I liked the length of them. I serged the bottom edge of the skirt (love that built in 1/4" mark), folded up 1" (vs. 5/8") and pressed, and stitched at 3/4". I did a second row of stitching 3/16" from the first (I initially thought I was sewing at 1/8" but nope...that's okay, it works).

Another thing I really liked was the 3/8" seam allowance. I love that about Kwik Sew as well. I hate 5/8" on knits. It's just too much!

More pictures...

DETAILS!!

Totally placed the print on purpose. I was so proud of my creative genius!!!

I've got flouncy sleeves!
In the pic on the left, you can see the front is sitting a bit higher. Boobs.

I would definitely make it again using a medium through the neck and shoulders, grading to a large for bust and back to a medium for waist. I'd cut a medium front skirt and add a little more booty room by cutting a large back skirt. I'd like a sleeveless version and I think I have a nice knit for it.

Follow the Blog Tour!!

cleverthinking99.com 4/4/2014 (that's me)
sewingforward.com 4/10/2014
juliabobbin.com 4/15/2014

54 comments:

  1. You chose the perfect fabric for this dress! Love your version!

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  2. Super cute! I was on the hunt for a new knit dress pattern. I may give this one a try. Wonderful fabric choice. Very pretty!

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  3. Gorgeous!

    May I gently suggest padding up your dummy's bust area so that it matches you? This will make fitting - any top - considerably easier. A buddy of mine uses two different bras, one that is her size and one that matches her daughter. I only sew for me, so I have wrapped several layers of quilting padding around my dummy.

    Each kilo of weight I lose means I can unwrap another layer ; )

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    1. I want to but don't know HOW! I was trying to when I was working on my shirt because those D cup princess seams looked so deflated! Lol!

      Lily does not match me there!

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  4. Lovely dress. . Love the fabric choice.

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  5. Love the way you placed the print!

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  6. This is too cute, lovely dress!

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  7. it turned out fantastic!
    Helen

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  8. What a cute dress - that fabric is great! Love it on you:)

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  9. Love the fabric and how you did the upper bodice! It's beautiful. I'm still tweaking my fba's (full bust and booty adjustments) too. Great Job!

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    1. Hahaha! YES! Both "FBAs" are needed here!

      Thanks Robin!

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  10. Nakisha, I adore your version. Love the way you placed the print on the skirt. I bet you're going to get a lot of use from this pattern. Thanks for taking the time to test it for me.

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    1. Thanks Deepika! I have another one planned - of course!!

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  11. I agree, it is the perfect fabric for this dress! I love how it looks and the sleeve flounce rocks :D It looks great on you!!!

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  12. Your arrangement of the pattern pieces turned out awesome! I'm glad it fit to your liking.

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  13. Gorgeous. Amazing you could get something so beautiful out of a fabric bundle. I love the way the fabric pattern is placed on the finished garment!

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    1. Thanks! I know! THe thing is, I was *just* complaining about FM's bundles prior to pulling this out for the dress.

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  14. WHat a gorgeous dress! THe fabric and pattern placement are perfect. So cute!

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  15. This is so pretty! I love the your print placement, and the style flatters you.

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  16. Bravo, lady. I knew this dress would be fun when you shared the preview pics, and you did not disappoint.

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    1. Thanks! I was impatiently sitting on my hands to show it off!

      Now, if it would just quit snowing already...

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  17. That is very cute. Love the fabric choice.

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  18. Adorable..Love your version.. The placement of the designs is so pretty..
    This style looks great on you.. Happy sewing.

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  19. That dress is very chic! Well done on the pattern placement, it looks amazing.

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  20. Such a darling dress and the print placement is genius. Good thing you deliberately ignored that fabric staring at you until this came along!

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    1. Thanks Carole!

      It is something when you let the fabric 'speak' to you!!

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  21. I was intrigued when I saw the pattern announced in the email-- but seeing yours? Oooo... gotta have it! Super cute! I love the way you used the print in your fabric too-- the over-the-shoulder placement is especially awesome.

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  22. Your dress turned out great!

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  23. That is one of the most gorgeous dresses I've ever seen. Looks totally just of the runway. Stunning work.

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    1. Aww, thank you L!!! (LOL! @ Bathtub Fabric Queen!)

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  25. I think its super.it would make a nice mother's day gift♥
    Mommabear

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  26. Super cute dress! I like how it's a basic design that you can make your own with a really cool print like yours. I love how you worked the fabric's print.

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    1. Thanks Kathy!! I think I just have to make another one. Especially after seeing two toned versions!!!

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  27. Such a pretty dress! From the photos it looks Like it fits very well. I love easy to sew knit dresses

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Thank you for taking the time to comment!