Thursday, March 19, 2015

Finished: Butterick 6169

Nope, I didn't think I would make a lined jacket right after making a lined coat either...I am SUCH a glutton for punishment! I did make that little knit top in between...

ANYWAY :)

I have wanted this simple kind of asymmetrical zip moto-inspired jacket for a good, long while. There was Burda 3/2012  that was almost there (not asymmetrically zipped). The infamous Style Arc Ziggi (collared and too outerwear-y) and Kwik Sew 3764 (collared)...the "ehhh...maybe" Simplicity 2056 (collared, outerwear-y)...The new Burda young 6800 (so much collar)...

So many not.quite.right. options. (I'm being super dramatic, I know)




And then I saw the Butterick pattern and said, YES! Yes, that's it!

And then I cleaned out my closet and knew I needed a gray cardigan or jacket. And then I found this extremely lightweight wool in my stash (purchased from a Spot the Bolt! sale at Hancock I believe). And THEN I found this white zipper with silver (nickel?) teeth. Ah yes. Yes please!

I am on a slow decline (wrt my weight) and decided to go for a snug fit now -- e.g., wearable over sleeveless tops (woven or knit) or close fitting knit tops with sleeves -- and decidedly more 'jacket like' 10-15 lbs from now.

I cut a size 14:
finished bust of 42.5" (just barely 3" of ease)
finished waist of 39" (mine is 34")

Miraculously, the fullness of the bust was in the right spot (I usually have to lower it) and the shoulder wasn't insanely wide (usually have to narrow it!)

I sewed the seams between the front and middle front at 1/2" and I did a 1/2" swayback adjusment.

The sleeve width was 14.5" and 15" is more appropriate so I did a full bicep adjustment using the Fit for Real People method of slash/spread on the upper sleeve only. YAY ME!

Scored a hardcover version of the book on 
PR classifieds!

I should have measured where the jacket would hit (high-ish hip) but didn't, so I ended up sewing the side seams at 5/8" tapering to 3/8" after the waistline.

The sleeves are pretty much the perfect length so if you've got short arms, make sure you check that.

Hmm...other things I love:
  • There's a back facing - THANK YOU
  • There's a separate pattern piece for the back lining that has additional ease built in and ease pleats - YAY!!!!!
  • You're instructed to cut the lining pieces slightly shorter (I usually do this anyway)
  • wool. Sew all the things in nice, well-behaved woven fabrics like wool, cotton, linen or blends of these. Goodness gracious <3
Things that made me sad:
  • Oh.my.gosh. You are to assemble the jacket and lining and join them. Then attach the sleeve lining to the sleeve and do some crazy slip-stitch madness. I don't even KNOW what they were saying because I was all 'AIN'T NOBODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!' in my head.
  • The tiniest, useless pockets in the history of all the world.
Things I did differently:
  • Interfaced the hem (jacket and sleeve hems) to get a nice, crisp finish
  • Made my own shoulder pads
  • Bagged my lining (so sorry, so lazy for miles of slipstitching)

And now I've got a moto-jacket of AWESOMENESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you follow me on Instagram you have been subjected to half a dozen in-progress photos :) Aaaaaaand now a ton more! haha!





Absolutely LOVE it


The back unzipped


The back, zipped. See how it doesn't quite fit around my high hip? it's okay...


On Lily


It's so cute zipped!


My hand is all the way in the pocket. They're SO tiny.


Nice and tucked away zipper


I couldn't get this side as crisp as I'd like.


I used a matching lining! :GASP: 

Here I tried it on over this oversized shirt and it still fit but boy was it snug! LOL!



It was also pretty cute over a dress, with workwear and now I want a floral one!!! **What would one line stretch cotton sateen with??

I also sewed 2 tops today  (V1436 and Burda 6911) that need the last bits of finishing so hopefully this weekend I can get them done and photographed!!

Yes, I am now done with 4 of my list of 10! lol! I have also changed my wardrobe (of course) so now only 1 top from the list needs to be held out until after April 1.