Thursday, July 28, 2016

Sometimes I Get Too Excited...

We knew that from my last post though, didn't we?

I finished the Burda dress - LOVE. Need to get photos.
I also finished the Style Arc skirt - Really like. Need to get photos!

But the more I started thinking about fall sewing, I couldn't stop thinking about what I was hoping would be a part of my fall sewing, the plus sized pants from the August issue of Burda.



I really liked them with hem band and without and looked forward to making both views. I was surprised to see a 17" finished hem because they look slimmer...yet on the modeled photos it's obvious they're just barely tapered. 

I was NOT happy when I learned that the side panel is a "drafted" rectangle. I did not have high hopes for that working well when there's butt, hips and thighs to cover. 

I was intrigued by the pocket but right after cutting them I had second thoughts -- Always listen to yourself!

So there were several issues with the pockets:
1) The front pattern piece and pocket piece are NOT curved to create an opening as the drawing suggests. They have straight edges and they connect to the rectangular side piece. So it's a 'regular old' inseam pocket and it doesn't work well.

2) It connects to the rectangular side piece. So no markings. This became an issue when I realized the rectangle was "drafted" to include a self facing. But I lined it up with the top of the front waistband and used the front pattern piece's markings to place the pocket in the side piece. 

3) They are in a weird spot. Here the drawing is accurate. The pocket sits right across the crotch. Just WEIRD!

I really wanted to share a pic but couldn't bring myself to post it. And they have all already been deleted from my phone. The horror. 

They were neatly done though! LOL!


I kicked so much butt matching stripes. Dang it! 



This is the yoke in back

I then ripped out ALL of the pocket stitching and sewed up the seams. I then had another issue with the rectangular side piece. I was looking at the measurements for the pair with the band. Doh! So I had to chop off like 4.5" in length. 

So now they are a bad length for the hem width. I decide I'll just go ahead and add the hem band to this pair and finish stitching up the vertical seams.

I don't love them.

They are *ok*


sorry for the shoe collection! LOL!

I kept this one for the pants but the face I was making in this photo was all sorts of crazy!

I think I will finish them (if I can figure out what Burda wants me to do with the back waistband).  If you look at the photo of the yoke stripe matching you can see that it has an elasticated back waist. But Burda's instructions make NO sense. It's horrible.  

The good:
-This fabric. Swoon. It's a wool blend suiting from FM with a light grey pinstripe on a medium grey. It is really soft but sturdy and presses so well. 

-They are fine. I can incorporate them into my wardrobe so it isn't a total waste.

-They fit very well in front and they are decent in back. I removed 3/4" from the front rise and added 3/4" at the back. I also added 3/8" at the crotch extension in back and scooped the back curve a little. Burda does include the instruction to stretch out the back inseam which really is necessary for a closer fitting pant. I could use a full inner thigh adjustment. I need to make that a part of my regular adjustments! I always forget.

The bad:
-I don't like Burda's random zipper placement choices! LOL! Though there's not a lot of options here...there's an invisible zipper on the left side between the side panel and back piece. Again, it's okay but it's just awkward. 

-I wanted a slim-legged, close fitting pant. Which I am starting to wonder if that's even possible without a bunch of Lycra. So they aren't exactly what I was looking for.

-If I want to make this pair wearable I have to add the hem bands. 17" is too wide for this length. And I don't wear capris so shortening them isn't an option. 

Fall hopes and dreams dashed! :-p

I really wanted a slim-legged, close fitting, fly-front pant. Which I wonder if I should revisit Burda 1/2016 and try to make those work. They have a lot of seaming though which feels more casual to me. They have a side panel but it is shaped and darted, allowing for a nice fit.


A bit tight in the thigh and a bit baggier at the knees than I'd like.

And I feel like, for a slightly tapered pant with a side zipper, that V9155 is a better option:



They fit me pretty well and they have GOOD pockets! :)

I have 3 finished projects to blog and I need to get going on the wedding guest dress. Which, I visited SR Harris and found no knits that I loved for the option 3, fun flirty Burda dress. But I also couldn't stop thinking about Vogue 1447 and as I was leaving the store, I happened upon the lace aisle and nearly gasped at this pewter lace. After I cut my yardage (you do it yourself!), I was waiting to check out and wandered over to the silks. Okay...they cut the silks (and anything over 5 yards). I thought, hmm, this is a pretty color...and when I draped the lace over the silk, two people came over and swooned over the combo. I was SOLD!

Wait.

I was sold on the idea. The lace was $5/yd and I got 2.5 yards. The silk was $15/yd and is 44" so I'd need, what is for me, a lot of money worth of silk! The store was closing and I chickened out and put the silk back. I got out to my car and wanted to run back in for that fabric! 

I have to go in that direction on Saturday and hope it's still there. I should go early :)



Saturday, July 23, 2016

Ooh...Shiny!

There was a recent post on Pattern Review where Deepika asked about sewing patterns (har, har) and the seasons. I hadn't really given it a ton of thought before but summer sewing is not high on my radar. I mean, I sew during the summer - of course - but summer is just in the way of fall! :)

I love fall. It has always been my favorite season. I love the cool-to-warm temps (NOT HOT!). I love the smell in the air, the leaves...and I love fall fashion! I am downright gleeful when I can pull my boots out of their hiding places!

As August appears on the horizon, I start thinking about what I want to sew for fall. There's always a mix of 1) what I need (I think I need more fall dresses and jackets) 2) fabrics I want to sew (we all know how inspiring a particular piece can be 3) and patterns I want to sew. This may or not may mimic #1! Sometimes, you just want to sew a pattern, in a fabric, and maybe it isn't a thing that you really "need" at all.

I posted this pic on Instagram after rifling through the stash a bit. Full planning post to come!


In the meantime, there are a few more summer patterns that I "need" to get done. I recently finished up my July Fabric Mart project and knew I had to make another one in a print!



You can read all about this piiiiink linen version of Burda 6732 HERE on the Fabric Mart Blog.

So I ended up ordering some fabric during the FM P-Z sale and have a fun printed challis on the way to me for round 2.



But what to sew NOWWWW?

I wanted to make M7391 in chambray but got all scared of the eyelets. But I've been assured (sewing friends are the best!) that I can do it. So that's on the agenda.


I don't have a ton of fabric so it'll likely be view D shortened to tunic length (length of B/C)

In the meantime, after scaring myself off of the eyelets, I decided I'd make M7388 out of a lovely print rayon challis. But, it's lined! Wahhh! I did not have anything appropriate for the lining so that got put away.
Then I saw a version of Burda 07/2016 #117 on PR without the crazy wrap-around neckstrap and went straight home, traced, cut, and starting sewing the pattern! haha!



Progress as of this morning:



Lastly, I've been wanting to sew this Style Arc Susan skirt since I ran to purchase it last July.

Do you have whiplash yet!? This happens to me sometimes. Especially considering I went a couple of weeks without sewing at all.



I'm sure this is intended for 'swishier' knits but I just couldn't shake the idea of using this floral (lightweight) double knit for the pattern. And I figured, it would just give it a little more body...what's wrong with that?? So I crossed my fingers and charged ahead!

This fabric is, of course, from Fabric Mart. It has some really beautiful shades of blue and purple that I rarely incorporate into my wardrobe. Plus, I decided I couldn't go another moment without a floral skirt :)

I used a size 14 (typically 12 up top, 14 skirts, 16 pants. Which explains why I am always "afraid" of trying a SA dress. Soon) and sewed the side seams at 1/4" instead of 3/8". I used 1/2" elastic (just turned and stitched a casing).

I constructed this completely on the serger, it's SO SWINGY! But it comes like 6" past my knees. I don't understand why it's so long :(


I'm going to have to measure very carefully and "connect all the dots" to trim this down. I tried it on with high wedge sandals and it still looked kind of blah. I can't say that I normally choose midi-length...

I do love this fabric as a skirt though so I'm going to try to make it work! 


I think I'm leaning towards option #3 for the WGD! It's so flirty and fun while still being totally appropriate for a wedding! It's intended for knits so unless I completely bomb out on finding fabric that I love...that's the plan! But I also *love* option #6. If I can find a complimentary lace/eyelet and other fashion fabric?? Which seems like a BIG if...That may win out.