Thursday, April 23, 2015

PR Wardrobe Contest: Style Arc Sandra - Take 2

Sorry you have to see me posting so much! :)  I have been sewing a few hours a day which is much better for me than epic sewing sessions. I still love a quick project but these types of items that can be broken down are appealing to me more and more.

Anyhow! I started these Sunday night; cut out some of the smaller pieces and on Monday, really started working on them. By Monday night I had the pockets stitched and ready to assemble, the parts that needed interfacing interfaced, and the belt loops topstitched.



It is worth it to note that I cut the main pieces all single layer (saved the grainline AND my hand!). I had traced this pattern onto freezer paper last time and it is NOT see through. I had a twisted pant leg and didn't want that to happen again. So instead of flipping the pattern piece, I flipped the fabric! I cut a front and back on the right side, flipped the fabric and cut them each on the wrong side.

I saw a handy tip about tracing the pattern piece rather than cutting around it and that helped a ton with accuracy. I used chalk on the face of the fabric and a pink gel pen on the wrong side :)

Tuesday I got the front and back completely assembled and ready to baste together.


the FITS I had topstitching that fly. Holy cow!!!! I thought I was going to cry I had to unpick and re-do so many times. BLEH!!!!!!

I again chickened out on using a jeans zipper and again that freak out was unwarranted; it is completely concealed. Also, this denim is quite light so a normal zipper works fine.

Wednesday, the jeans were completed except for hems, belt loops and button/buttonhole (dang that doesn't sound completed at all!)


I got out my tools (and my husband!) to practice rivets.


That bottom one that is all bent and mangled? Too much hammering!

The other two caught just fine but then I realized the areas where I am placing rivets is NO WHERE near as thick as this stack of denim I practiced on! Maybe half the thickness...maybe. And Mr. SCC couldn't find his Dremel tool or a side cutter to shorten them. So for now, I am rivet-less.

My machine does a MAR-VUH-LUS bar tack! YAY! And again, lighter denim, no problem attaching belt carriers. But the buttonhole. Sigh.


I practiced! The second one was GOOD!

And then I started on my fabric. Well...my machine has auto buttonholes and there is a lever that comes down which "tells" the machine how long to make the b-hole. This was right up agains the bulk at the waistband (where it meets the top of the pants), and the feed dogs couldn't feed it.

75 minutes, lots of stitch ripping, lots of sadness later...

I turned the pants so the majority of them were to the right and the top (thinner) part was against the lever. Ah. Problem solved.

Wonky b-hole this time but at least now I know.


Also worth nothing that while I can get a crisp corner on trousers, so far on jeans? fuggedaboutit.

*Denim from SR Harris
*Random stash scraps for pocket bags
*C&C topstitching thread in 'gold' and matching all purpose thread in bobbin
*On pair #1 I did not interface the waistband which was fine. This pair needed the waistband interfaced. So I presume after a wear (hopefully 2) I will need a belt or to wash them to restore the fit.
*Dritz tack button
*14 universal needle for construction (lightweight denim...) and topstitching needle for...topstitching! :)




Oooh and I did pocket "designs"! Okay, it's 3 parallel lines but still!!


I think they look pretty danged good!

Innards


Slightly different from pair #1 (on bottom)


I call this photo: Smug Satisfaction

Until next time!!! Oooh and if you have a favorite denim source, please link!


Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Summer Patterns! Vogue & McCall's

In a crazy turn of events; LOVE Vogue, MEH on McCall's

Really liked 9103 but it reminds me of this Burda from March 2013 that I've wanted to sew


1451, love them both just not together

1446; beautiful but I have no use for it :(


1448, SWOON!


1445; I like this a lot more every time I look at it.


9107; I like it but again, no real use for it.


9108; Like, but won't buy


9112; So interesting!

1452; I like this a lot. I might buy it after seeing it made up


9116; love.

9117; nice basics


1447: Love and already in stash!



1449: there something about this that I like but something else, 
that I can't put my finger on, that I do not love.


1454: no.


1450; she looks so sad.


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7167; Yep. Another jumpsuit to add! Love the back of the bodice and the pleated pants

7153: I like this but won't buy it.


7154 is the obvious star of this release!!!

Now for the nightgown dress collection

7156

7161

7158

7155 ;-(

7165

very similar to the OOP 6756


7162 with cup sizing; although us busty ladies know that that neckline is a recipe for disaster


7163; uh-huh.


7170; deepest of sighs.

7168; YAY for another swimsuit pattern! 
Don't know about those tops on me but high waist bottoms are pretty trendy right now.


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Another pair of jeans in happening over here! They're in the washer as we speak; ready for hemming, button and rivets!



Monday, April 20, 2015

Insta-TNT; Butterick 5760

I mean, is that really possible?!? 

I have every single Butterick wardrobe pattern I could find. There are some great things in there. Even if it's only 1 or 2 pieces, at a less than $2 price tag, it's usually worth it for me if there's a single gem.

I bought this pattern for the cardigan 


While browsing the collection looking for a skirt pattern, I happened upon this one. 


Hmmm. Look at that nice straight skirt. Look at that cool waistband. It's a nice length...it only needs 1 yard of fabric for all sizes. SOLD!

I first cut it in this striped cotton and used a size 18 based on a finished hip of 45.5". I removed some length from CF but did not add to CB. After basting the side seams, I ended up with 3/8" waist seams tapered to 1.25" side seams. I kept the 2" hem (LOVE!) and removed some of the extreme hip curvature.


I did a centered zip and top-stitched hem and just serged the edge of the facing.


Definitely consider this on the more 'casual' spectrum of things. And I think it'll be super versatile in my wardrobe.

I was all, "what is that poof of fabric..." and then remembered that you were to ease in the front waist to the yoke. I do not like. 

On Version 2, I removed that excess ease and shaved off the hip curve. I also cut the front pattern piece down to a 16 (keeping the back an 18). The front wedge was made at 3/4" and lowered the darts an inch.

This fabric was picked up from the remnant bin at SR Harris. OMG it's so awesome! It's some sort of suiting that is nice and thick but not heavy, has a tiny bit of stretch, washes and dries nicely and presses well.


I used a contrast facing this time and bound it with bright blue bias tape.

I also did a lapped zipper and added a button and loop at the top.



Another GREAT staple in the closet! And bottom #2 in my wardrobe contest entry. I also started cutting my jeans out today. 

Ahhhhh.

If you have this pattern (it is OOP now) and want a straight skirt, try this one out!!!