Saturday, August 27, 2016

Not *too* Boring Basics: Butterick 5760

versions 5 and 6... :) Hey, that's what TNT's are for!!!

I'm at the point where I really need to retrace this pattern onto something nice and sturdy, it's starting to look a little beat up.

As per usual, I cut a 16 front and 18 back. I removed the excess fabric from the front skirt that is supposed to be gathered. The side seams are always basted before being sewn - different fabrics or if it's lined or unlined affects the fit. Both of these are unlined, they're both sateen with a slight stretch, so both have 5/8" side seams until just after the hip and it increases to 1-1 1/4". I haven't adjusted the pattern for the pegging - even though I often peg it - because you just never know. I do like the skirt in it's original width, it just depends on the fabric I'm using...and it doesn't take much to tweak side seams.

The one thing I DO need to change on the pattern is the hip curve. I don't need that much curvature and always remove it.

I finished the panel-print sateen skirt 2 weeks ago. Honestly...where does the time go!?!  I'm sure some of you have seen this Maggy London sateen 'in the wild'. I passed on it twice and then saw a dress made up on PR and the next time it went on sale I managed to snag a panel.

I *just* eeeked out my skirt with the single panel!!!

just scraps remain!


I tried to match at the side seams as best I could.



I ended up having to cut the facings from a different fabric. I rummaged through the scrap bin and used this lightweight suiting (I made a bias cut skirt from Burda mag with it last year). It is white/black on one side and black/white on the other.


I went with an invisible zipper and topstitched hem.


The color is really 'me'. I have a few tops in my wardrobe that I can pair this with. I love it with this coral tee (Target) and my new jacket.



My son was in the room while I was taking photos and he had me laughing the entire time. You can see how terrible my posture is on this back photo :/ Also, it is a "sensitive time" and I seriously look 4 months pregnant about 2 days a month. I always manage to want to photograph something fitted during this time! LOL!!! 

Because olive is one of my favorite colors, I have plans to add a few more items in this color to the wardrobe. This fabric is closer to a moss/ivy green but it's in the family, and that works for me! :)

When I made these olive pants I was surprised by how versatile the color is. That led me down a path of wanting all the olive things! :)

And they fit better now! :-p

For this skirt, I wasn't as smart as I was with the floral one. The fabric is narrower so I ordered 1 1/4 yard. On the floral skirt I cut front, waistband, then back.  This time I cut front, waistband, facings then...uh oh. I can't fit my back piece because of the vent. I moved things around, over and over and in the end I had to cut single layer and eliminate the vent. But it worked out! Whew!



I am all for serging the edge of facings but I had a bit of red bias tape to match my serger thread, Oh and on this one I went for a centered zip and again...topstitched hem


I forgot to serge the back seams before sewing the zipper. Arrrgh!

(this is closer to the true color than the photo above)


Yep! It's love! I think I will be pulling this out A LOT this fall, even though this sateen wrinkles if you think about maybe looking at it! :-p

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This month I jumped into the trends and sewed a bomber jacket for my Fabric Mart project! In a crazy printed ponte - and I love it!



It's a Burda pattern -- which Burda's consistency and fit make up for their awful instructions to me! I cut my normal 40 neckline / 42 for the rest but since I used ponte and the pattern was intended for satin, I left off the full bicep adjustment and because it is gathered at the hem, I didn't worry about a swayback adjustment. I made slightly narrower bands than the pattern called for and used a run-of-the-mill black zipper from Wawak. I have been staying away from poly/lycra pontes (give me some rayon!!) but for something like this, it's okay with me. I also lined it with a poly/lycra interlock and left out the interfacing. You can check it out over on the Fabric Mart blog!

The Fabricista Fashion Challenge will be starting up soon so I won't be posting for September. I really enjoy watching the progress! Also, the PR Sewing Bee will be starting in September! It's not my kind of comp so I won't be sewing, but I'll be watching - for sure.





Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Finished: New Look 6481

Didn't I *just* say at the end of my last post that I was going to try not to get distracted by shiny??

Sheesh.

In a FB group that I am in, someone posted some fall plans and it included the Decades of Style Three's a Charm jacket. I adored the lines but I always check Big4 and Burda before biting on an Indie pattern. Why? I know how they will fit and what adjustments I need to do. You all know by now that I balk at muslins! :-p

So I'm scrolling through the coat/jacket category on PR and see this:


Wait what? I've never seen that pattern before!?! It's PERFECT! Turns out it was a new one from the Fall release. Lucky me!!!! I had to visit the JoAnn in the crazy busy part of town but I got it! And then I kept thinking about it and this suiting that would be perfect for a LBJ and yeah, I started working on it when I got off work Friday :)

Let's clear something up. A couple of people have compared it to the Grainline Morris. IMHO, not.at.all like the Morris. Okay maybe 'not at all' is a stretch. It's a slightly cropped jacket. It is a much closer clone of the DoS jacket. I made a graphic!

See? 

Now, the Three's a Charm jacket offers far more opportunities to fit with all those wonderful darts (I really dig shoulder darts). And I prefer the lack of topstitching on the New Look (which you could of course, skip on the TaC. There are TONS of the TaC jacket up on blogs and I knew that I would never wear a jacket of this style buttoned so I decided to go ahead and gamble with the NL at $4.

However, based on the number of finished projects on such a wide variety of body types in an array of fabrics, I do think the TaC jacket could be a good buy at $12 for the PDF / $15 for the printed pattern.

Also, sizing on the NL vs DoS are comparable; The New Look is sizes 8-20 or bust measurements of 34-46. The Decades of Style is sized ABC but is for busts sized 30-46.

The big cheesy grin says it all - I love it!

I made a mistake right away with cutting. I very often cut size 14 and grade to a 16 at the side seam, eliminating the need for a shoulder adjustment. I then went and narrowed the shoulder 1/2". I have to add this back.

I did a 3/4" FBA and lowered the dart an inch. I also needed to move it back about an inch. The dart was sort of large to me so when I did my FBA, I had a big honkin' dart. I was surprised and redrew the lines to reduce some of the uptake. This was a bad move. I have folds but they are not because I need more room. When I pinch out just a bit more at the dart, the jacket lies flat.



I removed 4" in length from the sleeve and added a bit of width after measuring. I didn't do an actual full bicep adjustment because I thought it would be sufficient.

EEK!!

I'd set this very lovely pucker-free sleeve; I use lots 'o pins when setting sleeves:


Look at how smooth that cap is!!!!

And then I put the jacket on and holy moly was it tight!!!! LOL! I sat the jacket down, dejected and went to sit on the couch and drown my sorrows in a bowl of popcorn.

Revelation. Ok. Fine. Duh moment... CUT NEW SLEEVES :-p

I had 4 yards of this fabric snagged during a Fabric Mart sale. I'd paid $1.99/yd and thankfully, I did good. It presses beautifully and stitches up well.

After doing a proper 1" full bicep adjustment, I decided to add 1/2" to the sleeve cap. I'm not sure all of this extra was needed and admit that making this decision based on the too-tight sleeve was maybe a bad call. It's not bad but I can tell there's a bit of extra and it was harder to ease.
I can move!

The sleeve rotation - I notice this with jackets and then I had a lightbulb moment and remembered that Gail over at GKs Agenda blogged a fix for this. I'm going to try this on my next jacket.

I did a 3/4" swayback adjustment which is standard for me: 


I like the back fit

And because of basically solid black fabric decided to just serge all seams. In a print or color where I didn't have matching serger thread I'd definitely bind that center back seam for a little interest.

I also tacked the facing down at the point, at the cb seam and at the shoulder seams.



Sooo I pretty much am in love with and am wearing it today. Wearing the exact outfit actually that I blogged (different jewelry!) :)

Once I get some more fall sewing done I'll decide on what color to add next. It looked really cute over this black/white M6886 dress I made!

The outtake: that plant was attacking me!