The Good: Butterick 6204; The Bad: Burda 6/2015 #126

I have been doing a terrible job at replying to comments lately; my apologies!!

Let's start with the bad, shall we?

There are several garments in the June issue of Burda that I want. I was immediately drawn to the culottes in the plus size section. I'm pretty much a 40/42 in Burda tops and dresses depending on the style and assumed I needed to go up a size for my bottoms as I do with the Big 4. So I figured the 44 should work for me!

Initially, I was going to use some awesome linen that I got from the Fabric Mart contest last year but it had far too much body after washing and drying that I decided on a lightweight cotton blend suiting. I really love the color of this fabric and have been hoarding it.

While tracing the pattern off, I started really questioning if I should make them or not. Because I am getting wiser in my old age :) I pulled out the purplish RPL that I'd gotten a generous cut of earlier this year. This one was much less vibrant than it appeared on the site---and I've yet to believe I can successfully wear this color or not---so I figured it was perfect for a muslin.

I cut the size 44, knew that crotch curve would be all kinds of wrong and the tissue fit confirmed I'd have some "butt hungriness" so I scooped out A LOT; like 1/2" and that was the right move. I did not add any hem allowance because I never need to with Burda (unless it's a petite pattern).  I added 5/8" seam allowances except for 1" at the side seams. This was good as I needed a little more room at the high hip.

I cut off 7 inches of fabric from them. SEVEN INCHES! I hate everything about them. I hate them. I hate them. I hate them.

And I still don't think this is a good color for me.

Do I look cool and chic like her? Nope. 

Also she must be like 6'4" cause...SEVEN INCHES.

They "fit"; the side seam is straight, the back looks good...

But I hate the style on me. Too much fabric. And, OMG the dropped crotch. I do not like it...it is not comfortable. 

Other 'what in the world?!' for me is that the front crotch is sewn to the notch and then you topstitch the left side and then it wraps over. The part that would have a zipper? It's just open O_o I understand it because of the crossover; and it will have two outside buttons and an inside button, but again, not a feature I particularly cared for.

There will be NO additional work on these! I am moving on!!!!

***************

But there is LIGHT! :-)

When B6204 dropped I was all aghast. I had to have this dress!!! 

I mean, doesn't she look great?! :) I did not care for the hi-low hem but view A has an even hem...

I was going to muslin this but I've made similar and figured flat measuring and tissue fitting should suffice.

I have previously been using 14 D-cup but I think that I need to use the C cup and do a small FBA. It seems as though the D cup has too much projection. Like my bust are more full than sticky-outy.  Anyhow, I went with a 16 C cup. Traced, did some tissue fitting...made some changes to the front.

The Front.

Did I fit the back at all? Nope. Sometimes my older self is not wiser.

On the 16 C bodice I "took back" 1" of the dart uptake, lowered the darts 1", and did a 3/8" tuck on the front neckline to hopefully prevent gaping. I also did a 3/8" armscye tuck. I did not narrow the shoulder. I added 2 inches to the front waistband to match the addition to the front pattern piece and to the front skirt to match the waistband.

I decided to leave off the belt carriers and pockets and completely forgot to interface my waistband...

The instructions for lining the bodice was great! Sew the armscye seams first, easier to understitch that way! And if you try on your bodice a whole bunch of times (like, a whole bunch), it may 'grow' and then be slightly bigger than your lining. I don't know anyone who may have done that though...

hahaha!

Once I got it assembled, I basted in the zipper and got this:

my daughter keeps Christmas lights up in her room :)

Yeah...you should have fit the back too crazy lady!!!

But my in progress shot was encouraging so I was excited to finish:

And then trying to get the zipper in with the crazy amount of excess fabric in the back resulted in a serious case of Whiskey Tango Foxtrot with some of the inside finishes.

I was so annoyed...and I'd go so far as saying I was completely pissed off at this dress last night!!!! I wanted to throw it in the fire place!!!! Nothing was going right. I probably should've just quit and came back to it but I didn't and as a result just suffered!

I pushed and pushed and when I tried on the finished dress, I was giddy! GIDDY!!!!! I was both glad that I powered through and mad that I "angry sewed" the rest of it.

(Dear daughter, you could have warned me about the trash cans...)

I mean...the twirly shots are far more important than anything else, right? RIGHT?!?!

It feels great on and I think those few bodice wrinkles are totally due to me making the fashion fabric stretch out of shape.

I just left all the excess fabric and used wonder tape to get the zipper in place as needed

Clean lined bodice!!

In the area where you have the cross over there's lots of bulk...be sure to grade that seam...

The side split

Now, do I love it? I do...I love it very much. But what's up with the crazy amount of fabric in back? Is it due to me choosing the wrong bodice size? Is the pattern just crazy big in back?? I can't say for sure. 

All fabric in this post from Fabric Mart!

A Trip to Wadderville

In House Belle blouse

Yesterday I cut the final item in my mini-wardrobe, the black V9032 pants. And I bought a (much needed!) white V-neck tee from Target which will also sub in photos for the below fail.

I don't have any plain white tees or any plain white shirts for that matter, and the white rayon challis Belle Bow blouse was supposed to remedy that. Only it did not work out. Not at all.

Like, I have put it on my body approximately 19 times, made a face and then took it off. So we all know that if it remains in the closet it will never get worn. Sigh. It has such a pretty, almost vintage feel to it :( And I used nice buttons!!!!

I love my first Belle blouse. Love.Love.Love. So, I blame this fabric. I think I like rayon challis a whole lot; in very simple garments (like, front, back, hem, done).

I washed and dried it before use but it seems to grow and grow and grow. And it wrinkles if you consider looking at it.

Ah well.

Vogue 8904

The Christmas dress did not work out either.

Not only did it turn to a giant blob of pepto-pink, it was so short and tight that I can't even SHOW the back!!!

I was careful with all my marking 

ooh! Shingles!!!

Err? 

I cut a size 16 based on BMV experience as there are NO finished measurements anywhere (c'mon Vogue). Once I had the front fully assembled, I was doubtful of it fitting and sewed it with 3/8" seam allowances - still too tight! 

I wonder if, with the shingles cut all sorts of ways; you're not really using the stretch of the fabric. Would this be better in a 4-way (2-way? however it works) knit? Do I just size up to an 18??

It's also short. short. short. And yes, I know I should have measured the length. Bad, bad sewer. I tried adding a band to the bottom; did a crappy job on that, ripped it out (put it on my head as a headband) and continued to marvel how this dress went so wrong when it looks so great on everyone else. Maybe I'll try again this spring :)

But alas, there is hope!!!!! To be fair, both of these wadders occurred in 2014.

Remember this muslin?

I could not stop thinking about this top so I pulled it back out and decided what needed to change to have it be wearable.

1) fabric with more drape

2) more bust room

3) wait, more room everywhere

I used an inky navy blue ITY, still used size 16, but sewed 3/8" seam allowances at the front raglans, 1/2" at the back and 3/8" side seams from sleeve to hem.

After trying it on it was a bit too baggy at the armpit so I took it in to 5/8" from about 2" on either side of that seam.

I liked it SO much that I got up early Tuesday morning to hem it and wore it to work that day!

The color makes it a bit tough to get photos...

I will definitely be sewing this one AGAIN. I just have to be mindful of the fabric choice as it'll affect the way the collar sits.

**I could get zero contrast so I had DD take the pics. I told her I needed "pictures of the shirt" and she cut off my head.  Sigh. :)

Vogue 8597 (OOP):

One thing you don't see is that this pattern has 2 piece sleeves. I keep finding myself confused about 2 piece sleeves and then having some sort of epiphany. I suppose this 2-piece sleeve eliminates the need for a dart on the raglan? Did I get it right?!? :)

It has nice deep hem allowances (1 1/4") and a decent length in the body and sleeves. So if you're tall, measure first! I have somewhat long arms for my frame and took a 1.5" sleeve hem and still have considerable length.

The cowl is not low at all and in the right fabric seems to sit rather nicely. 

I want to make view C (with attached cowl) in the longer tunic length, with those crazy long sleeves. Mmmmmm in a soft jersey I bet that will be heaven!

Wah. Quasi Fail

Today wasn't my day. I will highlight all of my mishaps on the Lady Skater in the review post...but I worked it out.

All we need now are neck/sleeve bands and hems. 

Progress;

So I needed then, to make a project for me! ;-)

I've been wanting to make NL 6110 for a long time. I had the cotton from SR Harris slated for this and the pattern was already cut out so I got started. 

I was scared I wouldn't have enough fabric so I decided to do view C with the shorter sleeves of view D. And then got the bright idea to use contrast for the bands. 

And then it started. 

This pattern is not hard. But if you look up the word 'fiddly' in the sewing dictionary...this pattern would be listed. 

The front, back, top and bottoms of the sleeves are all gathered. You have the sleeve bands. The -oddly shaped and in need of uber careful stitching- band. Just so many things and so many places where something can go wrong (if you're me). 

Note to self, if you use the shorter sleeves they will hit you at a higher place. And so the bands will need to be bigger. See. Things like that. 

Meh. 

The good:

That's a nice lookin sleeve and band! 

The ok: 

It's cute! But the imperfections show. 

The ugly:

Wavy band, poor stitching in the ditch and topstitching. And, what the heck happened with the band?!?! I dunno. I'm going to add a little fake placket square doo-dad to cover it up...

I LIKE the top on me...and I like this fabric. I guess this will be a muslin. Or hopefully I'll pull it out later and not notice all of my hiccups. I hope!

Size 14 with size 12 sleeves (reviews said they ran big). I think if you're slim, small cup size, your traditional size may feel too big. But above a C cup or with a little extra fluff...and you need those gathers and extra room to help get over the lady lumps! :)

My husband thinks the print + shape is dowdy. I think it's perfect to toss on on the weekend with skinny jeans or my new shorts!

**oh also, I thought I was going to eventually make this up in chiffon?? Heck. No. Too flippin' fiddly. Maybe a rayon challis?? Maybe. 

Fails and Dumb Luck; Finished Item M6927

So...Friday night I set out to cut and sew my New Look dress for the party. Oh boy, the initial parts went fast. The fabric is gorgeous. I can't wait to try it on! But I will wait til morning as I am full of sweet 'n sour chicken, I told myself.

Saturday morning I put the dress on - I had a weird hip bubble and zipper bubble. Zipper bubble I know how to fix. The hip bubble perplexed me. After having 1,087 things to do on Saturday, I never got back to the dress. I had to rewear my black party dress. :sigh: So I decided to go all glam (for me! LOL!) with hair and make up.

 

This was a biennial fundraiser for the private school my husband works for. The venue was gorgeous! Gorgeous!! There was amazing food and lovely decorations all in a black and white theme but jazzed up! There were plain black table cloths/couches/chairs and plain white but there was black glittery and black/white chevron and oh it was just pretty! 

And then I saw it.

Someone wearing jeans. 

I am not a fashionista in any sense but I know how to dress appropriately for the occasion! You don't need to wear a ballgown but jeans?!?! Gah.

ANYWAY, after the weird hip bubble incident I decide to switch gears. I pull out my ever-in-progress B5678 and start the topstitching on the cuffs. I ripped it out 4 times. I tried to just stitch in the ditch. Ripped out twice. 

DEEP SIGH.

Okay, I'll do the buttonholes. I have never ever ripped out buttonholes -- until Saturday. 3 times. And then I finally got a good buttonhole (and, duh, practiced on a scrap) but then guess what I did? Said, whew. That was difficult and turned all the darn dials back to the settings for straight stitch. And as you can guess...was not able to go back and get a decent buttonhole.

I quit. I quit!

Sunday morning I figured I needed a simple palette cleanser. A knit. A dark one (the serger had black thread in it). I traced and cut Burda 6910, view A





I used the black "jersey" that I picked up from SR Harris. It went together effortlessly and then I put it on.

DEEP SIGH.

I swear this material felt really, really nice on the bolt. I was so happy to have found a lightweight black knit. This fabric felt horrible on my skin! I can't describe it in any appropriate words, it was just nasty. Also; the short sleeved view is not for me. It hits right where my arm is biggest and wasn't at all attractive. So I plan to sew view B with the 3/4 sleeves this week as I *do* like the top and ruching is always my friend.

Overexposed to show details

Ruched with 1/8" elastic

I also messed up the neck binding but at that point I knew I'd never wear it due to the feel of the fabric.

::Oh gosh. My sewing mojo is dwindling now. Ok. Ok. Ok. I need something good. I need a good project!!!::

So I decide to completely switch gears and start my summer wardrobe like I've been wanting to. I pull out the new McCall's 6927 woven tee pattern (comes in sizes 8-16, A/B, C, D cups and 18W-24W, C/D, DD, DDD cup!)



I've seen a couple of reviews lately on PR with tops in graphic black & white prints and had a lightbulb moment! I have this awesome FabricMart burnout cotton voile in my stash! I only had 1 yard so I knew I'd be going sleeveless here.

(can anyone tell me why McCall's only has a 45" fabric requirement on this pattern??)

I decided to do view D without sleeves.

Can you see the happiness!?!?

Me and my not accounting for the hips...

Never thought I'd do the 'mullet hem'!

My loop and button aren't gorgeous on the inside but they work. Vents added due to hips :)

 So this is where the "Dumb Luck" comes in.

I pulled this pattern out and thought, "Hmmm. That's interesting that the size 14 has a 43" finished bust" and cut the front and back pieces out.

"Hmmm. Interesting that the dart is so big!"

By sheer luck, I cut the D cup pattern piece. I had paid zero attention. ZERO! lol! Also by sheer luck, I used grey thread that was already in my machine and it was perfect. Can we beg for ALL woven top/dress patterns to have cup sizing?!!?

I did a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment and 3/4" swayback adjustment.  One DOH! - The finished hip was 43" on the 14. Mine are 44". Should've graded to a 16 there...so I believe the back wrinkles aren't more 'swayback' but rather my fabric not fitting over my hips fully! :) There will be more of this top. I will make it right.

Otherwise, it went together very quickly and easily. The vents were new to me and easy to do as was the back slit. In the end I wanted to prance around in this top all day long. I even dug out a pair of shorts to make me feel more summery -- even if it is well below freezing still!

Other notes:
Switched to a microtex needle to sew as after ripping out the side seams to add the vents I noticed fraying. I interfaced the area and sewed the vents.

Used store bought bias binding (I know some people hate it but I'm spoiled to it!)

*should* have used french seams with this fabric but will pink the seams.

15 year old said I should "cut the butt flap off". But I'm kinda liking the butt flap... :-)

******************
Progress on my sweater!!!! :-)

December Garment Finished: Simplicity 1783

Simplicity 1783



Meh.

Not much to say; review below.

Review:

Pattern Description: 

Misses' pleated blouse with a peek-a-boo slit and bias bound neckline with long or short sleeves. Cropped pants and mini skirt have fly front and patch pockets with optional top or side entry; skirt has front inverted pleat. Cynthia Rowley Pattern Collection.

Pattern Sizing:

12-20; I cut an 18

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. It was pretty straightforward and the fly instructions were good. The front inverted pleat is super easy to do; I thought it was more complicated than it is.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I didn't like the shape of the fly shield, it's odd.

I don't like the boxy shape and the length. However, it was my fault for not noticing it says "mini skirt" and not checking the finished length.

Fabric Used:

Dark brown corduroy from Hancock

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Slightly larger seams from hip to waist. I should have cut a 16 waist, grading to an 18 hip.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I won't sew it again. I had high hopes when I initially bought this pattern and when I saw Rachel's version, it was bumped up in queue. It just looks so blah on me...

Conclusion: 

Meh. I am starting to realize every time I take a day off and spend it in the sewing room, I end up with a wadder!

**********gratuitous cat shot************

She was "lost" in the house for nearly two days. I was worried out of my mind!!!! If you've got time, you have to read through the stories on Pattern Review. Cats are crazy! :-)

I am a Fabric-aholic! Sewing Fail! And a SURPRISE!!

 

FM Haul #1: The "I must purchase because everything is 30% off and there is free shipping and that $8 can go directly to fabric acquisition" purchase:

 

 

7.25 yards

 

1 yard of this CRAZY knit that I plan to make into a very simple and fun top/tee

 

2.5 yards of beautiful (BEAUTIFUL!) cotton/lurex fabric that will become a blazer.

2 yards of "dark taupe" pretty, pretty ponte knit that will become - yes - another M6844 cardigan. (it's just so perfect!)

 

 

I didn't take an individual pic of the black...it's black ponte that will become Kwik Sew yoga pants.

 

FM Haul #2: The "OMG they put like, everything on sale in the $1/$1.99 section and I need all of these things! ALL OF THEM!"

 

 

8 yards of pretty lining material (2, 4, 2)

 

7.5 yards of suiting (thinking cape for the first fabric)

 

6.5 yards of some more suiting in black, charcoal grey, brown

center fabric in first photo

right side fabric in first photo

 

So the stash is growing like a weed, and I'm not sewing much of anything for myself this month. I was losing weight this spring and then...went in the opposite direction. From May to December I gained 11 lbs. They must go -- along with some of their fatty friends! :)

 

FAIL.

 

The hubster said he wouldn't take pics for me if I were going to call it a fail. Shhhhh. He said I can keep it and wear to a 70s party. Lolol! He doesn't like that it's a jumpsuit; I don't like that it's a jumpsuit turned clown suit.

 

As I was cutting the fabric for the pants and matching up the pattern, I realized it was going to go really bad. The top by itself wasn't so bad, the whole thing is just...meh!

 

**great pattern matching though!!

 

The jumpsuit was SUPER fast and easy to make and I will make it again in a SOLID fabric! If you make this in something woven, I implore you to insert a zipper!!!!!!!!!!! I don't know what McCall's was thinking.

 

 

Aaaaaaaaaand.....the Smith household has acquired a new family member!! She's still a bit shy but coming out of her shell rather quickly.

 

 

She's a 6 year old tuxedo that had 4 mates at home (along with 4 dogs!!) but her previous owner thought she'd be okay living without other cats. She's a cutie pie albeit a bit chunky. We're going to have to get her on a plan to lose a bit. Poor thing is dragging her belly around!!!

 

Her name was "Kitten" but upon suggestion by a friend and by unanimous decision, we want to call her "Bacon". In time kitty...in time! :)