Wednesday, January 7, 2015

A Trip to Wadderville

In House Belle blouse

Yesterday I cut the final item in my mini-wardrobe, the black V9032 pants. And I bought a (much needed!) white V-neck tee from Target which will also sub in photos for the below fail.

I don't have any plain white tees or any plain white shirts for that matter, and the white rayon challis Belle Bow blouse was supposed to remedy that. Only it did not work out. Not at all.

Like, I have put it on my body approximately 19 times, made a face and then took it off. So we all know that if it remains in the closet it will never get worn. Sigh. It has such a pretty, almost vintage feel to it :( And I used nice buttons!!!!

I love my first Belle blouse. Love.Love.Love. So, I blame this fabric. I think I like rayon challis a whole lot; in very simple garments (like, front, back, hem, done).

I washed and dried it before use but it seems to grow and grow and grow. And it wrinkles if you consider looking at it.

Ah well.

Vogue 8904

The Christmas dress did not work out either.

Not only did it turn to a giant blob of pepto-pink, it was so short and tight that I can't even SHOW the back!!!

I was careful with all my marking 

ooh! Shingles!!!


I cut a size 16 based on BMV experience as there are NO finished measurements anywhere (c'mon Vogue). Once I had the front fully assembled, I was doubtful of it fitting and sewed it with 3/8" seam allowances - still too tight! 

I wonder if, with the shingles cut all sorts of ways; you're not really using the stretch of the fabric. Would this be better in a 4-way (2-way? however it works) knit? Do I just size up to an 18??

It's also short. short. short. And yes, I know I should have measured the length. Bad, bad sewer. I tried adding a band to the bottom; did a crappy job on that, ripped it out (put it on my head as a headband) and continued to marvel how this dress went so wrong when it looks so great on everyone else. Maybe I'll try again this spring :)

But alas, there is hope!!!!! To be fair, both of these wadders occurred in 2014.

Remember this muslin?

I could not stop thinking about this top so I pulled it back out and decided what needed to change to have it be wearable.

1) fabric with more drape
2) more bust room
3) wait, more room everywhere

I used an inky navy blue ITY, still used size 16, but sewed 3/8" seam allowances at the front raglans, 1/2" at the back and 3/8" side seams from sleeve to hem.

After trying it on it was a bit too baggy at the armpit so I took it in to 5/8" from about 2" on either side of that seam.

I liked it SO much that I got up early Tuesday morning to hem it and wore it to work that day!

The color makes it a bit tough to get photos...

I will definitely be sewing this one AGAIN. I just have to be mindful of the fabric choice as it'll affect the way the collar sits.

**I could get zero contrast so I had DD take the pics. I told her I needed "pictures of the shirt" and she cut off my head.  Sigh. :)

Vogue 8597 (OOP):

One thing you don't see is that this pattern has 2 piece sleeves. I keep finding myself confused about 2 piece sleeves and then having some sort of epiphany. I suppose this 2-piece sleeve eliminates the need for a dart on the raglan? Did I get it right?!? :)

It has nice deep hem allowances (1 1/4") and a decent length in the body and sleeves. So if you're tall, measure first! I have somewhat long arms for my frame and took a 1.5" sleeve hem and still have considerable length.

The cowl is not low at all and in the right fabric seems to sit rather nicely. 

I want to make view C (with attached cowl) in the longer tunic length, with those crazy long sleeves. Mmmmmm in a soft jersey I bet that will be heaven!


  1. Oh No! That is too sad about the blouse. It sure is pretty. and I can't believe Vogue didn't put finished measurements on that pattern - I use those finished measurements more than the body ones!
    you navy top does look awesome though :D

    1. Thank you!! It is crazy there's no finished measurements. But I suppose now I know!

  2. Yes, the two-piece sleeve eliminates the need for the raglan dart. I've found that I prefer the two-piece sleeve to the raglan dart because almost everyone (including myself) ends up needing to futz around with raglan darts to avoid shoulder nipples.

    I LOVE your new top. As far as the garments that you didn't love, what didn't you like about the white Belle Blouse? It looks fine on your dress form--is the fabric too lightweight/sheer? And I think that the shingle dress has potential, but maybe it just ran small or like you said, putting the pieces on the bias messed up the stretch. If you're like me, you probably just move on from patterns that didn't work the first time, but I think this one has potential on you with a different fabric and/or size.

    1. YES! I got shoulder nipples on my last raglan sleeved garment and was all confused.

      I think it's mostly that it doesn't fit "the same" as the first one. It's longer (fabric related as I made no changes) and the first one was verging on too long. It clings where the voile skimmed. And I don't feel happy when I put it on :)

      I will definitely revisit V8904. Just have to find fabric-again-and with -15 weather, no dresses will be worn.

      I'm thinking I'll remake it for the Best of PR contest.

  3. well you edured to end & seen them through that's gotta count for something, right?even thougth they're not to your liking they turned out well, I know what you mean about pattern sizes, the 1st retro style I made was for a sew along & the lady mentioned if you wear a 14 retail you will need a 20 , I was like what! & she was right lol! one good thing about handmade we can let it be any size we want it to be cause there's no tag lol!


  4. Pepto-Pink is the best description I have heard of a dress in a long time! The new top looks stylish and comfy -- loving it.

  5. Well 2 wadders for one great top pattern that you will remake isn't a terrible payoff. The blouse looks really nice on the dressform, but I know what you mean, if it doesn't feel right you won't wear it. Maybe salvage the buttons and make it again in a heavy silky something or other.

    1. Exactly that. I am trying to think if I know anyone I can gift it too. My closest people are either 2+ sizes smaller than me or 2+ sizes larger.

  6. Rayon challis is a temptress. So soft and flowy on that first date, but after you get to know her, you see the "real" her. Oooh, I have Vogue 8597, and never realized it had two piece sleeves! Yours turned out great, so I'm going to have to dig that one out- maybe tomorrow- school snow day!

  7. I *love* that white scarf shirt and am so sorry to hear it wrinkles when you look at it. That's annoying because it looks BEAUTIFUL on your dress form!

    1. Thanks Kyle! YES! I was very excited to see it finished and worked on it over DAYS! (yes, ME! days!!! I took my time with it! Wahhhhh!!!)

      Win some, lose some...right?

  8. Thanks for sharing your not so successful projects I find I learn a lot from such projects - if I can get past the frustration of not having anything to show/wear for my efforts. I was admiringing your navy top then realised I too have this pattern and will definitely now consider making it up this year. The top looks lovely on you

  9. I really like your white top. Then for the warning about using the challis for certain styles. I bought a lot last year during Fabric Mart's sale so I will keep that in mind when using it.

    Woo hoo, I have the Vogue top pattern..... one good thing about hoarding patterns. :-). I really want to make it up soon after seeing yours.

    1. I LOVE rayon challis but have realized that either I don't have the tools to tame it or it's just better left as simple garments.

      It is great flowy, breathable, cost effective fabric for tops/dresses. Sigh... :)

      I scored it when BMV was having their OOP sale! LUCK!

  10. "ripped it out (put it on my head as a headband)"

    *scrolls up to relook at pic*
    bahahaha I didn't even notice! Congrats on the navy shirt and thanks for showing those wadders lool

    1. hahahahaha! :)

      I have to remember to post my wadders. It isn't that I don't *want* to, it's that I usually just move right along to the next!

  11. Sucks that the Belle Blouse didn't work out, seeing your first one inspired me to make up Burda 6840 which I do like, but I might convert the pleats to gathers because I prefer your wadder! It's so hard to know what fabric will be like when it's made up. Flimsy fabric can become flowy and 'beefy' can become stiff looking.

    I have that Vogue pattern, and maybe should give it another look. I made it up before, but it didn't work out. I think it took me a full year to learn to ignore the measurements on the envelope, and I made it during that period. Glad to see you skipped by that stage quickly!!

  12. Oh, I am so glad that I am not the only one with multiple wadders! Haha! I made the Vogue dress and I read somewhere (can't remember or I'd get you the link) that the dress is based on negative ease so it is supposed to be tight in the body of the dress but the shingles camo all our deadly sins--so to speak! I don't think the fabric direction makes a difference as Marcy Tilton and others have experimented with the fabric direction using a stripe. Anyway, maybe try a bigger/different size?
    On another note, I really like the look of challis but I rarely sew it because it disappoints me so--sort of like an old but very bad boyfriend that you go back to more than once! :) I really like the white blouse so I hope you can find someone to gift it to, it's so pretty!

  13. Oh no! Can't believe the white blouse didn't work out. :( It's so beautiful, I hope you give it to someone who will wear the heck out of it. Your navy top is a solid win win win! Looks great. Also, I'm enjoying all the talk about raglan sleeves in your post and in the comments -- would you believe I've never sewn a raglan sleeve? I knit a few and thought they looked terrible on me, but they sure make for great design lines ... anyway, the point is it's great to learn more about them.

  14. Sorry. Sometimes it happens like that. One bad project after the other. But the top turned out nicely.

  15. We all have wadders! I've just had one that caused much annoyance & grief. I haven't added the waistband as it was THAT BAD! I may eventually do it for the sake of completeness and quickly give it away.

  16. I haven't actually sewn a vogue pattern yet but my mom keeps reiterating that I need to go up a size if I use them. She says they run small.


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