Sew Crafty Chemist: Style Arc Sandra: Day 1

Saturday, January 3, 2015

Style Arc Sandra: Day 1

I was going to write a single blog post but that would be ridiculous; there's just too much to say/show.

In my muslin post (here), I got some GREAT suggestions (on Instagram too!). sewalatte and LindaT both suggested the Peggy Sagers Fit2Stitch video on jeans fitting (here). After watching this video I played around with pinning out the fullness I was having

Here I pinned out a second tuck but you can see (or not) that I removed too much. It was very tight on my calf

So I played around with the side seams and aha! Perhaps they should fit a little closer...

Here I actually pinned out the excess on the left leg. I liked the way they felt.

Here, I pinned some out from the inseam; bad move. Far too tight.

I put the pants back on and thinking back to the Fit2Stitch video made some further adjustments. After several rounds of pinning, trying on, taking photos, etc; I felt I was ready to transfer my changes to the paper. I really like how in the video she stitches the darts/tucks and then just uses that as her pattern. Keeping that in my back pocket for future.

Front pattern pieced slash, creating a hinge at the side seam

Overlapped 1/2" (amount I pinned out on the muslin)

taped up.

Yoke adjusted

After round 317 with pinning out fullness, I decided my side seams were just too long. I created another hinge but this time at the inseam. I overlapped 3/4" at the side seam, tapering to nothing at the inseam.

On the back, I added 3/8" at the back and near the crotch point (for an additional 3/4"). I then did the same overlap (3/4" at side seam, tapering to nothing at the inseam).

Repositioning of pocket placement marks

By the end of day Thursday, I had my paper pattern adjusted, fabric cut out -- I cut everything single layer! I traced each pattern piece and then cut them out -- and I had my pockets topstitched.

I didn't want to do both rows of pocket stitching on the pants. So I did the 'inside' line and edge stitched to attach them to the pants backs.

I REMEMBERED!!!

I originally found the 'perfect pocket' tutorial on Off the Cuff and it has been a major tool in my toolbox ever since! Check it out for yourself here!

Cause sneaky peeks are awesome: