Monday, September 5, 2016

Drapey Cardigan Battle: Jalie 2919 vs Swoon Scarf Neck

I had the Jalie cardigan in my fall plans and was excited to sew it up in the wool jersey I've been hoarding for awhile. I snagged a 3.5 yard cut for $22 total last summer and knew it would be used for a cardigan. I made McCall's 6696 from wool jersey and I adore that cardigan. It is so lightweight while being nice and warm and it just feels good on.

I don't know how I found out about the Swoon cardigan but when I saw that Westmoon had sewn it up I was eager to give it a shot.

I printed it out, no problem there and then it gets a little funky. Honestly, Westmoon covered it all in her review here.

  1. There aren't lines for trimming the pages. The pattern pieces are tiled, and it does need to be trimmed, but there aren't lines for trimming
  2. The box to check scale is hidden well into the pattern vs being on the instruction page or early on
  3. The pattern is laid out really weirdly and is a paper hog
  4. The half sleeve is weird. Sleeves cut on the fold are weird
  5. The instructions. omg. Just, no. I mean, it's fairly intuitive but the instructions are just a no. French seam a knit? No, no, no.
Once you get past the minor annoyances (which are minor only because it is a free pattern. If I had paid, I would not be a happy camper about those things), it is a REALLY sweet pattern!!! 

I used a poly/rayon jersey knit from Fabric Mart. I really love this 'pattern/print' and it matches well with my existing wardrobe. It went together quickly and fits beautifully!

I sewed a size large and made no other adjustments. The princess seam hits in the right place, the collar drapes nicely, and the symmetrical sleeve works because the shoulder is slightly dropped.
(silly symmetric sleeve...I serged the sleeve on backwards and had to unpick the serger stitches. Booo!)

Many mentioned the sleeves were long; I am glad I didn't shorten them. I sewed a 1 1/4" hem and they are perfect. Lastly, I did a double turned hem (using Steam a Seam light and then topstitched), but did not hem the drape front. It really doesn't need to be hemmed. 

On the Jalie, I traced a size Y with the length of Q. Many had remarked about the length and I didn't want it too long. 
  1. This pattern also has a weird 'cut on the fold' half sleeve. I don't like that!
  2. MARK THE LINES! Please mark them. I only marked the top and end point and ended up getting off on some of them. 


I'd seen the pattern done both ways: where the tucks are outside and where they are inside. I wanted them to show so I pressed a crease, wrong sides together, and stitched at 3/8" for all 4. The wool knit takes a press beautifully. 

These sleeves are really long. After sewing it up, I removed 1.5" and hemmed it at 1 1/4".  I also did a double turned hem on this one.

So which pattern "wins"?

L: Swoon; R: Jalie


L: Swoon; R: Jalie


L: Swoon; R: Jalie


I prefer the Swoon drape over the Jalie
I prefer the integrated collar/drape of the Swoon over the attached collar of the Jalie

I like the length of the Swoon more (but that's an easy fix on the Jalie)
I prefer the front hem of the Jalie

I need a little more butt room in the Swoon - I will do that via slash and spread
The Jalie shoulder feels too long and the armpit too low
The wool knit is amazing to wear but...

The Swoon wins for me! 

I prefer it hands down and my fun black burnout knit will also become a Swoon cardigan! It just feels better on, even though the Jalie is done in yummy wool knit. I predict that and the color will cause the Jalie to get more wear than I'd expect. I have LOTS of blue in my wardrobe but no jacket or cardigan in a neutral tan/brown. I used to have a M6844 in a similar color but the fabric pilled like crazy and it didn't hang around in the wardrobe very long.

The outtake:

He's always in my photos.




28 comments:

  1. I like how unusually diplomatic I was in my original review of the Swoon pattern. 😂 "Maybe the pattern creator is not quite familiar with the conventions!" OR SOMETHING.

    At any rate, these both look GREAT on you, yay for fall cardigans. :D

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  2. Both cardigans look great on you but I really love the front drape of the Swoon cardigan - fun and elegant at the same time.

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  3. i think they both look great on you, and are going to fit into your wardrobe beautifully.. i've made similar cardigan once and love and wear it a lot (never blogged it from some reason though), it's burda 08/2011/117 you may wanna give it a try, as it's not the one with sleeves cut on fold (it has raglan sleeves actually) :)

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  4. Is the dark grey the Jalie? That's the one I like best. But I'm not wearing it, so I don't see the armscye issue.

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    1. It's actually a brownish color! Oh I can feel the armscye issue, LOL.

      I do LIKE them both but I prefer the Swoon!

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  5. French seam a knit? Sleeves cut on the fold!?! WTF. Glad you got a wearable garment out of that pattern! Both cardis look lovely IMO and could be suitable for different outfits due to their length and drape.

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  6. I like both cardigans (yay for fall sewing), but prefer the Swoon a tad more. You are off to a great start!

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  7. I like both, but I think the collar sits nicer on the Swoon. I will check out that pattern. I'm a major Jalie fangirl, so I'm interested in anything that could edge them out!

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    1. Jalie has some unbeatable drafting, that is for sure! But the Swoon is just more what I was looking for!

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  8. So pretty!

    I just discovered your blog-fellow science geek and burgeoning sewist. It's so inspiring to see your stunning garments-as I struggle with set in sleeves and invisible zippers :)

    Keep posting!

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    1. Aww, thanks!! YOU CAN DO IT! Practice makes perfect with sewing! Well "perfect" because usually good enough is good enough!

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  9. I do like both of them. It's kind of hard to tell about the as the wool knit would be naturally drapey, but the armscye thing does put me off. I narrow all shoulders, always, but I'm not a fan of bunchy armpits :-)
    Enjoy them both! And thanks for the helpful review.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, I normally need to narrow shoulders, and I think both of these are intended to be slightly dropped...but the excess armpit fabric is maddening.

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  10. The one on the right looks great, whichever that one is. But they are both cute sweaters. Thanks for the reviews! I have several lengths of wool jersey that I bought last winter and never sewed just waiting to be made into something like this.

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  11. They both look great - but I agree, if the Jalie is not right in the armhole, it is not the winner - except, as you say, it will be useful and so get lots of wear.

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    1. Thanks Sarah! Exactly! I like it, and it fills a wardrobe need so it will be worn. But the one that will be sewn again is the Swoon!

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  12. I like both as they have their own unique look. Never tried or heard of Swoon! Thanks for the comparison.

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    1. Thanks Linda! They mostly do bag patterns and this one is a freebie that is offered.

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  13. I think both are beautiful! I never heard of Swoon either and I did make this Jalie Cardi a while back (no longer have it though....retired it!). You can't have enough great cardi's in my book!

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  14. I have never heard of swoon patterns. Thanks for the candid review. I doubt I want to attempt another Jalie pattern since my last detail was a disaster. I didn't realize I was off tracing until sewing. Aargh!!!! What a nightmare.

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    1. Oh that's for the birds! See, their extreme range of sizing is not a good point for me; it is a liability. I do not need all those sizes adn don't enjoy tracing the patterns. This one wasn't so bad...there wasn't a ton to trace so few places to lose track.

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