Sunday, February 28, 2016

Burda Challenge 02/2016 #121

I managed to get my March Burda done before February...but February was already in progress.

There were a couple of things in February that caught my eye but I'm always on the hunt for comfy sweatshirts (old, drafty house) and this one looked like it would work.
Burda 02/2016 #121 (tall sizes)

I also, for the first time ever, used a tall pattern altered down to regular sizes!

Yay me!

I cut a size 80 (40) and used the Burda instructions (printed in the mag and available here).  Because I never add hem allowance to regular sized Burda, I shortened appropriately and added no hem allowance; and attached the band using a 1/4" allowance.

The pockets are really simply constructed, which I like. But for some reason, my machine was NOT playing nice with this black ponte. I ended up scrapping a pocket and cutting a new one because it wasn't feeding well and the topstitching looked horrid.

I did bar tacks to mark the pocket opening. 
I like the idea but my machine stretched it out quite a bit. I was able to steam it back into place some.

I was stalled for a couple of days because I needed zippers. I've totally given up wasting my time shopping at JoAnn so I was waiting for Hancock to put zippers on sale :) (I know some people only have JA - sorry. I'm so glad they aren't my only option). The pattern calls for 10" zipper and it seems as if the standard is 9" then 12". So I went with 9" zippers figuring that I wouldn't miss an inch on a decorative zipper.

And Burda strikes again. I have no earthly idea what they were instructing with the zipper. Only as I was cutting open my basting stitches did I realize it was supposed to be an exposed (zipper teeth only) zipper. Ah well. I did a good job on my zipper top stitching! :)

The facing extends about 1/2" below the horizontal line I stitched. I didn't want it loose and able to flop around. 

I slip-stitched the facings down to ensure it was nice and neat. I wanted so badly to just topstitch it but wasn't confident at all that I could get it clean so I sucked it up!

Lastly, I've never inserted eyelets so I went with tiny buttonholes for the cording to come through.

I had planned on making the entire thing grey, then decided I would make the pockets and collar black and then felt I should do either the sleeves or the bottom band in black. 

I ended up deciding on black sleeves because I really scored on this grey ponte! It's such nice quality!!! And I decided that I would make this (1 yard) skirt with it so I wanted to preserve as much as possible.

Now, I was searching and searching for the rest of my black ponte. I'd cut the pockets and collar from a remnant. And I "found it" and cut the sleeves. Yeahhhhh that ponte was different. Not as thick, obviously more poly than the other, and with a very slight sheen.  I was worried it would change my opinion of the finished garment but so far, not so much.

I'm fairly certain the collar depends on the fabric and the black is drapier than the grey on mine so it looks best fully zipped and then folded over. I forgot to shorten the cords but will do that.

The *only* thing I don't like is how wide the cord ends up sitting. If I made it again (which I may, because I love it), I would narrow the very top of the center part to tighten that collar up some.

I didn't sew at all on Friday or Saturday and just HAD to get in there today, but didn't want to work on anything too complicated.

Enter Burda 6717, scooped up at the last Burda sale. My Hancock gets the new Burda's in and always have JUST 1 of each. It's crazy. So a couple things on my list didn't make it, but I browsed the book and decided I needed this pattern.

This is a Burda young pattern that comes in size 16-26. I cut a size 18 (typical for me). As I mentioned before I never need hem allowance on Burda and I cut off the entire 1 1/4" hem allowance and hemmed it 1 1/4". 

Important to note, the front and back is the same. If for some reason I decided to make this again, I'd have to widen the back only as it's a bit snug. 

It's 5 pattern pieces, numbered 1-5, top to bottom. Super easy. Zip, zip, zip on the serger, hem, elastic, done!

I really like the waistband finish! They have you sew elastic and turn inside. Now, they tell you to hand stitch, I have no time for that. Because my elastic is very wide (2 or 2 1/2" I don't's left over from my Minoru), I just pressed it and it stays in place just fine. And SUPER comfortable!!! The elastic is inserted 1:1 so no complications there.

Ab.So.Lutely ADORE this outfit!

And of course, both of these items work extremely well with the rest of my wardrobe.

Lastly, my February post is up on the Fabric Mart Blog!! Check out how I used this fantastic Maggy London border print cotton jacquard!!

Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Burda Challenge 03/2016 #118

I have been a little preoccupied with life things and haven't been around blogland much. So thank you everyone for the lovely comments on my Burda pants and Butterick skirt. I've worn the pants already and love them. And cannot WAIT to wear the skirt! It snowed today so...maybe in a little while. :)

So, Kathy posted things from the March issue that she was digging over on Instagram. Confessions of a Sewing Novice then mentioned she liked this weird top too. And whaddya know, I was feeling the same way about the odd little top from the March issue! So we made a pact to sew it up and here's my contribution to #teamtrashbagtop !  [See CoaSN version here]

I know. I looked at the line drawing and thought, "Oh, Burda"

But then I had to agree with the other ladies that even Burda's rectangle patterns I went for it!

I used this Maggy London striped jersey that has been hanging in the stash since last summer (Fabric Mart of course) and traced a size 40. 

This pattern is so quick to trace and sew. It took me 90 minutes to trace, cut, sew and take photos. Win.

While I didn't bother to try to match stripes when cutting, it worked out pretty well when sewing. The pattern is intended to be left unhemmed and that's okay with me. I cut with my rotary cutter for a nice, crisp edge and did a little zigzag to tack the serged seam allowance. 

I kind of love it.

The front drape is made by taking 2 tucks. The cowl has a wonderfully drafted facing.

The back is voluminous but IT WORKS!

Cute and casual and my stripes mostly match! :)

My February Burda project is in the works. I have to run by Hancock to get zippers tomorrow and that should be wrapped up by weekend. I'm committed to the Burda Challenge this year! 

Monday, February 15, 2016

Wardrobe Contest: Burda 01/2016 #135 & Butterick 6219

After finishing the shorts, I somehow decided I should sew the pants next. Because...I like to torture myself?? :)

I was so excited about these pants when this issue came out.

I mean...those LINES!!!! 

Being me, I decided I ain't making no stinking muslin! And cut them out. The one alteration I made immediately was to shorten the front crotch by 3/4". Since Burda directions are frequently unhelpful, I didn't even look at them.

And uhmm...

They're intended for stretch wovens. Oops. 

I ended up having to recut the side panels, adding 1" to the back only. This threw a couple other things off, but nothing major. E.g., the dart in the side panel is more forward than in the center and the leg opening is wider...but it doesn't stop me from loving them!!! :)

These took me forever to finish. FOREVER. But I think they're pretty awesome.

You can see they're a little tight at the thigh. I didn't show a back view because I had insane VPL. 
So you'll have to trust that I'm happy with the fit. LOL!

I love the front with extended tab.

I ADORE the front of these!!!! I love how the yoke wraps around to the front seam, and the belt loops and the tab waist and everything!!!

Side panel with dart. You can see that there's more room in the back. The waistband had been adjusted and that seam is at the actual side seam so I covered it with the belt carrier.

Cute! Right?!?!?! Ahhhh!

I will totally make these again. I really like them as a casual pant!

In between fighting with these, I cut out B6219 because I have also been salivating over this pattern since it was released.

I loved this view. Loved it and had to have it. I used ponte instead of jersey so I lose some of the intended drape...but it's okay!

I cut a size 16 and sewed the side seams of both the yoke and skirt on the sewing machine to match the stripes.

Excellent matching on the side seams...never even thought about the matching the horizontal seams! OY!

And then zip, zip, zip went the rest of the skirt on the serger. Such a quick project - my favorite!

I also matched across the front - yay! 

The instruction on doing the waistband (which they call a yoke) is stupid. It's bulky and just...not good. I also didn't like that the skirt came all the way up to the natural waist. I hacked off the waistband from the pattern and an additional 5/8" to shorten the waist height.

I ended up using 1" elastic and cut a rectangle for the elastic and just made a "regular" casing. It works. I love it. I want to wear this skirt everywhere right now!!!!

Tell me why I was giving it to the camera:

Hahahaha!!! :)

In all these pics you see I'm wearing the S1916 top. Here are the S1430 shorts modeled:

I was watching The Hangover and was having a good giggle at whatever scene was on at the moment! :)

Thinking about new jacket options. I am going to go with a more casual unlined jacket. I just pulled out my chambray and am aiming to get at least the front and back sewn...then a couple days for sleeves and plackets, a couple days for collar and then buttonholes/buttons. So hopefully I'll have finished before next weekend is out.

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest: Items 1 and 2

So with my hardcore, set in stone plan (ha!), I'm using 4 patterns that I've sewn before and 3 that I'm considering making a muslin for. Initially I thought I should just knock out the 'known to me' patterns first but, later decided to intersperse some of the more labor intensive projects in with the "quick and easy" ones (quick and easy tends to be Famous Last Words).

Since I've decided to devote weekend sewing to the prom dress once the fabrics are procured next week; I know that things like pants and button front shirts are excellent projects for me to work on during the week. I sew those in that '20 minutes at a time' format all the time.

So I did start with 'easy' this week because, Instant Gratification is my middle name.

Simplicity 1916 has been made 2 times before; once in an animal print jersey (which I wear ALL the time) and the other in a lace print ITY. I love this one too but with the lace+black+low cut, not very often.

I really liked this candy-pink ITY much more than I anticipated. And I know I'll really love it come summer when I get my 'glow'!

Again, major props for seeing the skills grow and develop! The first time I made this it took for-evah to figure out that front ruching detail. This time I looked at the instructions and boom! Effortless. I opted to leave the neck binding exposed and to do binding on the sleeve openings as well.

Definitely the sassy vibe I was going for!!!

Next up was S1430 shorts. After the Style Arc Jennifer fail, I had to jump right on these.

I sewed a size 18 with 3/8" seam allowances at the waist only. I kept the original length and 'stole' the side splits from the Style Arc shorts.

I also added welt pockets - yay me! And belt carriers.

I was going to do hook & eyes but decided they would look much better with a button. This is the mate to the button I used on my son's shorts with this same fabric. I can never let him know that we have shorts with the same fabric and everything! :-p

The only issue, I put the zipper down a bit too low. Otherwise I LOVE them!

bias tape to finish the facing

I'm so proud of my welts!!!

I realized after WHY the SA shorts were angled so much at the hem; so that the split could open. Dang it.  It's pretty cool finish though. I will be doing that again. I need some bright green shorts! :)

Look at that bar tack on the bottom carrier - so good! And then the top one misbehaved. But who has time to be removing bar tacks?! Pfft.

The last photo is before I added the carriers. I considered them done and was all OH! I meant to add loops! :) I just love the finishing on these.

I've been too blah for photos. Soon...

As for the remainder of my items:
a) New Look 6373 is in progress
b) Burda 1/2016 pants are basted and too small (the pattern was meant for stretch wovens!)
c) Butterick 6219 skirt
d) Simplicity 1070 top
e) McCall's 6965 shorts
f) McCall's 6884 dress
g) Burda 7136 (also made twice before)
h) Burda 4/2014 jacket (I may do an unlined jacket or a vest or cardigan)

The contest ends on Thursday, 3/31. But I'd totally have to be done before that last weekend to get photos. Stay tuned!