Drapey Cardigan Battle: Jalie 2919 vs Swoon Scarf Neck

I had the Jalie cardigan in my fall plans and was excited to sew it up in the wool jersey I've been hoarding for awhile. I snagged a 3.5 yard cut for $22 total last summer and knew it would be used for a cardigan. I made McCall's 6696 from wool jersey and I adore that cardigan. It is so lightweight while being nice and warm and it just feels good on.

I don't know how I found out about the Swoon cardigan but when I saw that Westmoon had sewn it up I was eager to give it a shot.

I printed it out, no problem there and then it gets a little funky. Honestly, Westmoon covered it all in her review here.

1. There aren't lines for trimming the pages. The pattern pieces are tiled, and it does need to be trimmed, but there aren't lines for trimming
2. The box to check scale is hidden well into the pattern vs being on the instruction page or early on
3. The pattern is laid out really weirdly and is a paper hog
4. The half sleeve is weird. Sleeves cut on the fold are weird
5. The instructions. omg. Just, no. I mean, it's fairly intuitive but the instructions are just a no. French seam a knit? No, no, no.

Once you get past the minor annoyances (which are minor only because it is a free pattern. If I had paid, I would not be a happy camper about those things), it is a REALLY sweet pattern!!! 

I used a poly/rayon jersey knit from Fabric Mart. I really love this 'pattern/print' and it matches well with my existing wardrobe. It went together quickly and fits beautifully!

I sewed a size large and made no other adjustments. The princess seam hits in the right place, the collar drapes nicely, and the symmetrical sleeve works because the shoulder is slightly dropped.
(silly symmetric sleeve...I serged the sleeve on backwards and had to unpick the serger stitches. Booo!)

Many mentioned the sleeves were long; I am glad I didn't shorten them. I sewed a 1 1/4" hem and they are perfect. Lastly, I did a double turned hem (using Steam a Seam light and then topstitched), but did not hem the drape front. It really doesn't need to be hemmed. 

On the Jalie, I traced a size Y with the length of Q. Many had remarked about the length and I didn't want it too long. 

1. This pattern also has a weird 'cut on the fold' half sleeve. I don't like that!
2. MARK THE LINES! Please mark them. I only marked the top and end point and ended up getting off on some of them. 

I'd seen the pattern done both ways: where the tucks are outside and where they are inside. I wanted them to show so I pressed a crease, wrong sides together, and stitched at 3/8" for all 4. The wool knit takes a press beautifully. 

These sleeves are really long. After sewing it up, I removed 1.5" and hemmed it at 1 1/4".  I also did a double turned hem on this one.

So which pattern "wins"?

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

I prefer the Swoon drape over the Jalie

I prefer the integrated collar/drape of the Swoon over the attached collar of the Jalie

I like the length of the Swoon more (but that's an easy fix on the Jalie)

I prefer the front hem of the Jalie

I need a little more butt room in the Swoon - I will do that via slash and spread

The Jalie shoulder feels too long and the armpit too low

The wool knit is amazing to wear but...

The Swoon wins for me! 

I prefer it hands down and my fun black burnout knit will also become a Swoon cardigan! It just feels better on, even though the Jalie is done in yummy wool knit. I predict that and the color will cause the Jalie to get more wear than I'd expect. I have LOTS of blue in my wardrobe but no jacket or cardigan in a neutral tan/brown. I used to have a M6844 in a similar color but the fabric pilled like crazy and it didn't hang around in the wardrobe very long.

The outtake:

He's always in my photos.

July Wrap-up and August Plans

Seriously...it's August? Already?!

This month I sewed 14.5 yards

• Vogue 9056 top in black & white striped ponte - 1 yard
• Jalie 2921 tops in printed ITY and blue modal jersey - 2 yards total
• New Look 6301 dress in printed jersey - 2.5 yards
• Butterick 6060 skirt in navy and white suiting - 1.25 yards
• Burda 6732 dress in pink linen - 2.5 yards
• Burda 7/2016 #117 dress in print sateen - 1.75 yards (review to come!)
• Burda 8/2016 #135 pants in grey pinstriped suiting - 2.25
• Kwik Sew 4113 skort in grey and pink activewear - 1.25 yards (review to come!)

Favorite: Hmmm. I have to go with the wrap dress! 

FAIL: The Butterick skirt, for sure. I actually ended up wearing V9056 one day and it's not as bad as I felt initially. I just have to wear something slim on bottom.

Accomplishments: I sewed my first Jalie! I also sewed my first activewear pattern! Well, I sewed the swimsuit but this is like - eek! I was JUST saying that I didn't want to sew activewear. Sheesh. I am making a top too but may have to scrap the original plan. 

August Plans

*Matching top to my Kwik Sew skort

I LOVE IT!!!!!!

*Vogue 1447 dress for the wedding

In this rosey pink silk (crepe? SR Harris doesn't label weave) and pewter lace combo

This silk is a little more sheer than the original one I wanted (9 whole days passed before I made it back there and I couldn't find it). However, the dress has the the 'dress' layer (the silk), the lace, and a lining. So I think it'll be fine. I'll be skipping the piping. And, I have to figure out what to do for the straps. The straps pictured are purchased.

Well, all that assumes the muslin works out!  

*August Fabric Mart project - I'm making a bomber jacket - finally!!

Because I am traveling for the wedding and then the next weekend my daughter moves into her dorm room, I am not so sure I'll get to these but they're on the radar before I begin my fall sewing!

*Burda 6732 version 2 in this printed rayon challis (2nd from the top)

L-to-R: floral challis, suiting with heavy metallic threads woven through, print on navy poly blouseweight woven, challis for B6732, sateen panel

*August Burda Project: Though I could "cheat" and call my pants my August Burda...I do want to sew the simple knit top. Images aren't all up on Burdastyle.com yet.

I am so behind on blogging projects! I've been doing so many things that's NOT taking photos :) I may have posts every couple days at the start of this month so bear with me. I have to blog:

1. McCall's 6886 dress (sewed in JUNE!)
2. Finished Style Arc Susan skirt
3. Burda 7/2016 dress
4. Kwik Sew 4113 skort (which will probably wait until I make the matching top)

As much as I want to play in my new arrivals, I'd better get going on the wedding guest dress. I have 12 days which should be fine. Right? RIGHT?!? :-p

Top-a-Palooza! Jalie 2921 and Vogue 9056

I own a handful of Jalie patterns and have been meaning to try them. Boy am I glad I finally did! On PR there are 117 reviews and it's owned by 644. And you know that a chunk of that 117 is probably for duplicates (as mine is!).

I read reviews of some of my go-to bloggers to decide what size to go with (e.g. comparing the size they chose for the Jalie to the size they choose for say, Big4 or Burda). I chose the size that was almost an exact match to my upper bust, waist and hip measurement - size Y.

I actually made a muslin(!) and made a few adjustments:
1/4" armhole tuck (typical to have armhole gaping with a full bust)

added 1/2" with cheater FBA
5/8" cheater swayback adjustment (I need to add a CB and do a proper one)

Shortened the top 1.5"

navy, red, ivory print ITY

I LOVE IT!

In a cornflower blue modal jersey

There's still a little extra fabric in back. And I don't care for it tied:

Yay for the burrito method! It's so effortless. 

On this version I topstitched the opening of the tie end that I turned the top through. (On the solid version I hand stitched it closed.)

I did the turn and stitch on the armhole opening - not my favorite. This ITY is beefy so it works okay. On the solid version I cut bands, stitched it, turned and topstitched and trimmed close to the stitching. 

This version got double turned twin-needled hems. The solid version got double turned single stitch.

Lastly, I left the opening on this one to pull the ties through. Meh. I probably won't wear it like that.

I think I have to lay off the blue-based sleeveless tops! :)

A sewing friend sent me a big ole box of patterns awhile ago and V9056 caught my eye. I love peplums. LOVE! And I eagerly cut this one out. Did I read the directions? of course not! This is easy-peasy!!!

Sigh.

View A has raw edges. 

Raw edges on a neckline?!? why!? And a v-neck at that?! UGH! By the time I realized that it was completely assembled. I ended up unpicking 1/4" of the CF seam and doing a binding at 1/4". I just sewed it, turned, topstitched and trimmed the excess. Same for the armholes. I did not mind the raw hem on the peplum.

I cut a size 14 and did a 1/2" FBA and a 5/8" "cheater" swayback adjustment.

It's just okay...It would be much better if the seam was at my natural waist. And those little side panels are completely useless and I don't know why they exist.

It's okay but certainly not love. Good thing is, it was leftover fabric from my Butterick skirt and went together really fast. This one will find a new home.

I did a helluva job on the matching though!

Ahhhhh :)

During this "5-day weekend" I also sewed a wadder of a skirt (boooo!) and a cute dress in a fabric I've had since I first started sewing (yay!). Hopefully I can get some good photos of those soon. 

June Wrap-Up and Midyear Check-in

Err. This is an epic post of epicness...Don't say I didn't I warn you.


This month I sewed 10 1/4 yards:

• Style Arc Cara top in floral cotton (lawn?): 1 yard
• Burda 05/2016 #113 dress-as-nightshirt in floral knit and striped/patterned knit: 3 yards total
• Burda 6/2016 #105 dress in animal print cotton stretch twill: 2.5 yards (pattern calls for 2 or 2 1/8; I'm not sure about that. Could just be me and how I cut?? I used all 2.5 yards)
• Style Arc Cara top in white cotton eyelet: 1.5 yards (narrower fabric and wanted to use the scalloped edge)
• Vogue 9056 top in black/white striped ponte - 1 yard (WIP)
• M6886 dress in pale blue textured knit - 1 1/4 (WIP)

Favorite: I am head over heels with my Burda birthday dress! It's one of my favorite makes ever.

FAIL: An overall good month! If I had to list a fail, it would be procrastinating on the Burda. I knew it wouldn't be difficult, just a little time consuming, so I didn't push myself to get started, and I almost missed my deadline not ordering notions in time. 

Accomplishment:  I sewed all the things in my "planning" list from my May! Woohoo! 

Mid Year Goals Check

Where has the year gone?!?! This is bananas!

At the start of the year, I had some goals:

Patterns:

Goal was to use more of the Style Arc patterns I've purchased and to use ANY of the Jalie patterns.

No and almost yes (ha!). I've sewn some SA patterns but they've been new patterns that I had to have and then sewed up right away. I have a decent stash of SA patterns and need to use them. I have sewn my first Jalie (Scarf collar top) and LOVE it!

Here is the muslin:

I remember buying this fabric thinking DD would love it; but she did not. So it's been awaiting it's turn to become something. I think I actually like it for this top! I wasn't paying attention and cut the back with the faces right side up but the front they're upside down. Plus I didn't want to waste fabric for the ties in case this didn't work out so I ended them where the fabric ended for the other pattern pieces. So this particular version won't be finished.

I've made a 5/8" swayback adjustment, small 1/4" armhole dart + cheater FBA. DO NOT be surprised if my next post has like 4 of these. Seriously. I'm in love with the fit through the shoulders and upper back and the length is perfect. I'm off work until Tuesday so sewing WILL happen :) just not today or tomorrow. One more trip to the college with my daughter until move-in day!

My other WIPs:

M6866 in this lovely blue-grey textured knit that is too thin for a dress. I'm going to copy a cami and lengthen it to a slip (from tricot). I love the fit too much to give it up or chop it to a top!

V9056 in black/white ponte.

I was sad-mad when I realized this view has no seam allowance at the neckline or armholes. It's to be left raw. No. No. NO! I made a binding that works. I was debating if I should hem it but I don't mind it un-hemmed...but those other raw edges would not work for me. Photos to come soon.

New Mid Year Goal: The illustrious Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic has challenged me! She knows I lament on my pattern collection and then I buy more patterns. And then I have dozens of patterns strewn about all over...Sigh. So she has challenged me to No New Patterns! til the end of the year. No envelope patterns, no PDF patterns, no FREE PDF patterns. No. New. Patterns. The exception is Burda because obvs, I subscribe.

I accept the challenge!

Fabric:

I was starting to feel overwhelmed by the stash. I don't know how many yards I've added but I've only placed 6 (!!) Fabric Mart orders this year and 2 Fashion Fabrics Club orders. I visited the new SR Harris and bought 3 yards of denim and I purchased a couple of cuts from Hancock before the closure. In contrast, in 2015 I placed 15 Fabric Mart orders in the first half of the year--Plus who only knows how many visits to Hancock and SR Harris (a lot).

We'll call that progress!

Budget:

I never set a specific number but I know that I've spent less on sewing this year than any other. A large part of that is due to moving, my daughter's graduation and party, etc.

Skills:

I listed 6 skills in my 2016 post:

1) Floaty fabrics: Nope. All the nopes. I have yet to fully attempt to tame the floaty fabric beast.

2) Sew a blazer: Not yet. I want to, I really do. It'll probably be a Burda. And probably in August!

3) Sew at least 6 (for the year) Burda patterns: Done! This year, IMO, has been phenomenal for Burda. I've sewn something from each issue so far this year. And I'm planning to go the distance. Sewing at least one thing, for myself, from each issue of the magazine.

Jan-Feb-Mar-Apr-May-June

4) Sew a prom dress: DID THAT! It was challenging and I had to get creative at times and stretch myself. It was a fantastic experience.

5) Sew pajamas: I sewed 2 nightgowns! :) I still need pj shorts and pants. So this is still a goal.

6) Sew a summer wardrobe: Quasi completed. I made some dresses and tops. I think I don't really know what I want in a summer wardrobe! And one may think; well it's only July...but usually by August I'm moving on to fall sewing. Because September is hit or miss. And by October it can be winter. LOL! Ok, not winter, winter, but cold enough for tights and boots and coats...like how we have 55 degree mornings and it's the end of June!

I think I'm off to a good start for the first half of 2016!

On a personal note; with my birthday being in early July, it's always a reflective time. Halfway through another year...another year older. It always makes me take a step back and examine where I am in my life. So, I'll be turning 37 in a few days. I'll be getting divorced in a few months. I'll be sending my first kid off to college in 7 weeks. I moved this year and L-O-V-E my new house. June made a year at my job. I'm in a good place. I like it!

Okay fine...I just sneaked that in there. :-p It's been an uphill battle for awhile (as in  >50% of the marriage) with blended family issues.  Add in some other stuff and the best decision for everyone is to go our separate ways.

July Plans

Guess what I have NOT done? 

Worked on DDs quilt since like February. I'm a horrible mom. I don't know if it'll be completed before school starts. Maybe she won't notice. Maybe I can send it for her birthday - which is like 2.5 weeks after school starts.

Oy. 

So...

-Quilt top
-Burda Challenge for July

-Dress for a bridal shower 

-Fabric Mart post  (I need new skirts so perhaps I'll try to go in that direction)

When I drafted this post I was set on making like 30 million skirts (or 2-4, same thing). Well, I was bored and it was a beautiful day so to escape the chill of the office I went to the mall and found cute skirts at Ann Taylor Loft!

I was just combing through my patterns for a skirt pattern for a cut of white rayon twill and found this for $10.

It looks REALLY cute on me! I'll model it with my new Jalie tops :)

And I found this one but not in my size. I found it online and debated ordering it (I hate their $8.95 shipping and feel like cardholders should get a better deal). Well today they were having a free shipping special on all orders. Score! So for $25, I got this one too:

We'll have to wait for it to come to tell if it's love. The white skirt is a 14 and in-store they had this one in a 10. Hahaha! I put it "on my body" and decided it could be cute if it were, you know, my size.

I'm today's featured member on Pattern Review!

I got all warm and fuzzy when I got the email, took a bunch of screenshots, and showed my husband like, LOOK! Looooook!!! :)

The site has been absolutely invaluable to me since I've start sewing and I gladly pay my membership fee! I have all 211 (shhhhh!) of my patterns catalouged there plus a wish list of more (mostly Indies). I never start a pattern without checking there for reviews. And if you get stuck, there's a ton of people willing to take the time to un-stick you.

So in addition to being featured for today, I get 20% off patterns! Yay!!!

I'm only buying one though...Jalie 3130 :) It's hard having more than one addiction hobby. I've got my eye on some yarn and some fabric and always on some patterns...But I'm not independently wealthy so... ;-)

The Jalie shirt looks really well made and probably has better construction methods than some of the Big 4 shirt patterns that I own.



I also did a good job matching my stripes on sock #2!!! I was disheartened to find out that this is something knitters take into account BEFORE they start. Ooops. But I did good and they're well matched. Yay!

I will have about 2 hours between my ortho appointment and a work event that's occurring near my ortho's office. I'll be knitting up a storm! :)