Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Burda Challenge 9/2016 #113

Sometimes a plan just comes together!

So far, I have sewn from every Burda issue this year (even October!). The moment this preview was released I was thinking "must make that dress. must." And then the tech drawings came out and it was a surety. And THEN, when I broke my fabric fast, I saw this printed ITY and knew that this would be one awesome dress.

I went with my normal Burda sizing of 40 neckline/shoulders and 42 for the rest. Especially with the skirt being gathered (vs something fitted). I made no other adjustments for fit. Next time (I can see this in black!!), I will take out about 3/8" from shoulder to bust and about 5/8" from the back length.

Speaking of...I'm starting to question if I actually have a swayback or if I just have a short torso. I mean, I know my torso is short, but is that the reason I have issues vs. swayback?? When patterns have a shaped center-back seam, I don't have puddling. And I often find after the fact, that I need to ALSO shorten a bit at the side seam. Same for pants...I need to shorten front crotch length quite a bit, but I also take out a bit at the side seam of front and back to overall shorten the length from waist to crotch. Ahhh...ruminations.

ANYWAY! Aside from wishing I'd taken out a bit of length in the upper bodice (or as a cheat taken deeper shoulder seams), I cut out my skirt rectangles and somehow managed to rotate the front skirt. When I assembled the back and went to put it on my dress form I stepped back and OOPS! LOL! The back was much shorter than the front. That also explains why I knew I'd cut the skirt to match the front bodice motif (mostly) and then it didn't. I just shrugged it off. :) So I have a few less gathers in front than intended. :)

We are heading into fall/winter so my photos will likely get progressively worse :( I don't have a good open area (that's what happens when you cut your living space in half!) and the sun goes down so early during the week. So you'll get to know my kitchen and yellow table well! :)

I ADORE this print and the overall color scheme!!!

The front IS riding up a little. Full bust problems. I'll fix that...

My super cheesy grin says it all! It's Love!

On the black version (whenever I get the fabric for it), I'll add a couple inches to the length. Though, by the time it's cool enough to wear this with the turtleneck and all, I'll likely wear tights with it anyway.

I finished the hems by double turning and stitching with a twin needle. I slip-stitched the collar facing down by hand. The instructions have you ditch stitch but that seems dicey with the type of fabric you'd likely use for this. No way was I going to try that with ITY! I did however attach the facing to the lining by machine. That was no problem. I always do this as a 2nd pass, so I can use the zipper stitching as a guide.

Oh and I did insert a full length zipper but it is unnecessary. A 9" would be fine. I'd also consider using a tricot fusible in the collar. The back stands up due to the zipper but the front collapses a bit.

I started my daughter's dress last night! I got the front and back bodice seams sewn and the front skirt.

 Today I hope to get the back skirt assembled and the zipper in. Then sleeves (they are raglan), skirt to bodice, side seams, neck binding, hem, done! By Friday night! :)

 Lastly, I was on the hunt for fun skirts (still) and dug up some older Burda mags that were gifted to me. ALL of these awesome patterns are from the 9/2007 issue. Burda always gets better with time it seems!  I think the pleated skirt has a place in my fall/winter wardrobe! I have a winter white pinwale corduroy that I think will be perfect.


  1. I love the dress and your right, the colors are wow!! It looks beautiful on you, too!
    Issues with lighting are terrible but I DO like your yellow table!! =D

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  2. Your dress looks so good, I love the colors and style.

  3. That seems to be the perfect fabric for the dress. Awesome! I have been wondering if a Burda subscription is worth it. I may get one now.

  4. A word of caution with the corduroy and the pintucked skirt. Try a sample first to make sure that they aren't too thick. Otherwise, continue on! *LOL*

  5. I love everything about this! So cute!

  6. So cute! I said the same thing when I made the McCall's dress that has the turtleneck. That I'd wish I had added a little tricot interfacing for the turtleneck, due to the same issue you'd mentioned. However, your dress is so awesome!

  7. I agree the print and style of this dress is so cute. Great make!

  8. Adorable.!!!
    Love that fabric, and such a cute pattern.
    ps love your yellow table.. [so will enjoy the winter photos.smile]
    Happy sewing.

  9. Kudos to you for sewing from every Burda issue this year! Your dress is nice, and reminds me of fall with the rich colors.

  10. Love this dress! The print and cut make for some divine 70s goodness. And you do look so happy in it!

  11. this is such a fun print!!
    Interesting observation with the short torso,I know I'm short torso, I haven't started the swayback adjusting yet...but I know this is an adjustment
    I will need to figure out... I have a lot of fabric that sits on my butt, in my RTW annoying...

  12. You are right...this is an awesome dress! I love the print and colors. You look great!

  13. Well done on acing your Burda challenge -I'm desperately trying to catch up from July! I love that 9/2007 issue, it was the one of the first Burda magazines I ever bought

  14. This dress looks fabulous on you! It's perfect for fall!

  15. You look stunning in this dress! It looks so beautiful - I love the fall colors.

  16. I LOVE your dress! It's so chic and fall and all those wonderful things. I never wear turtlenecks (hate anything touching my neck) but this look has me wanting to try them anyway!

  17. That looks like the perfect fall dress to me and the pattern and fabric are made for each other.
    I love delving into my old Burda magazines and rediscovering old patterns.

  18. Two thumbs up!! I love this dress on you Ms. Nakisha!

  19. Hey lady, are you okay? I hope all is well with you.

  20. Also wondering how you're doing. Love to see what you sew and hear what's happening. Hope you are well.

  21. Hoping you are fine and will come back soon.

  22. We miss you! I hope all is OK.

  23. Sure hoping you're ok and that'll you be back soon.

  24. I hope you're okay. Miss seeing your new memade clothes.

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  26. The dress looks gorgeous on you. I ADORE the print and the overall colorpatterns for sewing are clearly your talent!

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