August Wrap-Up and...The 'Elephant' In the Room

This was a good month!! It started out very quiet and mojo-less. I knocked out my FM project the first weekend of the month knowing the next 2 weekends would be occupied. I was so excited to sew the border print sateen and then the almost finished skirt sat for 2 weeks. New look 6481 renewed my mojo and got me back on track! :-p

This month I sewed:

• New Look 6481 jacket in black suiting - 1.5 yards
• Butterick 5760 x 2 in olive sateen and border print floral sateen - 2 yards total
• New Look 6123 dress in polka-dot chambray - 2.25 yards
• McCall's 7382 dress in maroon jersey knit - 2.5 yards
• Burda 2/2013 #125 bomber jacket in printed ponte - 1.25 yards (Fabric Mart project)

M7382 - IDK about that one. It is currently hanging before hemming (one side has already grown about an inch). I think I dislike the CF seam. Perhaps in a print it would be okay but in a solid it just looks odd. Otherwise it's a flattering style. So this may be called a muslin and I may revisit this when I have a better fabric for it.

NL6123 is a favorite of mine. I really like the fit of that pattern. And it's POLKA-DOT!  I'm wearing it today and it makes me happy!! Review to come.

Favorite: The one dress is iffy but otherwise all are very solid additions to my wardrobe. IDK if I can choose a favorite. Both jackets, the NL dress, both skirts...I really like them all.

FAIL: I failed to stay on task but what else is new?! HA! 

Accomplishments: Hmmm, I did nothing noteworthy this month, but that's okay. I have a vision in my head for my fall wardrobe which means not everything will be 'the greatest item since sliced bread' but so far, it's all coming together.

I'd cut out M7382 Saturday night and made some adjustments and then zipped it up through the serger the other day (that part is fast; not looking forward to hemming but think it'll be better hemmed vs. left raw). Once I realized it needs to hang a good while, I was ready to move on to something else. I laid out the fabric I scooped up at SR Harris for v.2 of NL6481 and at that moment (it was weird, seriously), I looked over and saw a UFO peeking out from a bin and of course, I decided it must be finished right.now.

Sigh. LOL

I had picked up this cotton/lurex faille back in December 2013, of course, via a FM sale. I wanted to make a blazer but the fabric is a bit rigid and I was still very new to sewing, so I wasn't sure it would work. Into the stash box it went.

About a year ago, I decided to make a fall jacket and pulled it out. I got the pieces all cut out (had just enough fabric!), sewed up the lining first, went on to assemble the shell and there it stalled.

Butterick 6141

Photobombed by boys and cats.

It fits better now too!

Fronts and backs are sewn, sewn together at the shoulder, but that's it. I realized this morning that one of my pockets was sewn on wrong (I sewed it pocket right side to fabric wrong side). I wonder if this made me toss it in a box?? Looking at my posts around that time, I went on to sew a couple of tees for myself and t-shirt dresses for my daughter, all from M6964. That was probably the reason -- "shiny".

I need to sew the side seams, the front bands, set sleeves in both jacket and lining, sew the collar (which is a simple style - I'm sewing view C) and bag the lining.

September plans is to keep working the fall plan. I hope to get a couple things done over the long Labor Day weekend but I again have 2 non-sewing weekends this month.

I WANT to sew the Jalie cardigan, Ottobre sweater and Burda dress. But those are definitely for cooler weather (even though it was 57 degrees when I left home today).

I SHOULD sew the Kwik Sew jacket and Vogue pants (suit). I'm using this navy/white mini-check suiting. I'm kind of excited about these two as well!!

So what's up with that 'elephant'...

I was talking with a friend after she laughed at my fall sewing plans. Hey, I told her I don't really believe I'll get ALL of those things sewn... :-p She mentioned that I must have a huge wardrobe.

I DO have a lot of clothes. I always have. I will probably never subscribe to the minimalist wardrobe concept. Even before I learned to sew I had a lot of clothes. I LOVE CLOTHES! Not so much fashion but clothes. I like putting looks together, I like having fun with my wardrobe. This is especially true since I'm no longer in a lab environment and without clothing restrictions. 

I live in the tundra - which gets upgraded to "The Frozen Tundra" in winter (or is that downgraded??). So I essentially have 2 wardrobes. I separate fall/winter from spring/summer. Cold weather will begin around October/November and will persist through April and sometimes all the way until the end of May. So you get really sick of dark colors, heavy fabrics, etc. and I take great joy in shuttling those into storage bins around the so-called start of spring! :) 

And because fall is my favorite season, around this time I am just itching to wear jackets and boots and layers. Even though I don't look forward to the cold that is coming. So I've already put away a few things but it'll be a few more weeks before I do a full swap. 

It also helps that I've always had a ton of storage space. 

Now, with respect to sewing, I've been sewing since January 2013. So not a long time. I've progressed a lot but as far as my wardrobe goes...Most of the stuff I made in the beginning is no longer around. 

I remember finishing a dress and being so proud and I wore it out to date night. Sometime last year I pulled that dress out to wear and had a good laugh at it! LOL! The hem was wonky as was the neck binding. The gathers were uneven and it had shine spots from pressing. :) So best believe, the wardrobe has been culled. Also, I don't discriminate. If it doesn't work...it doesn't work. And that goes for RTW and handmade items. 

• 2013: I have 2 items from 2013 still. And one is a pair of yoga pants, the other is a raglan sweatshirt.
• 2014: I have 22 items from 2014. Progress! 1 is pajama shorts and then there are 4 outerwear items and 2 special occasion dresses.
• 2015: I have a lot of stuff from 2015 still in my wardrobe. 

I sewed A TON in 2015, but it was a very stressful year for me and sewing was my salve. While I still sew a lot by most standards (it's the fast sewing!), I sew WAY less than I used to. I don't feel the need to hole up in the cave all the time. Feels good too :)

Fast Sewer + Desire for a large wardrobe + Lots of storage space + "new" job (It's been 14 months already!) + A definite style that is starting to emerge + Fabric inspiration + Pattern inspiration =  Lots of pieces being added, still. And that's okay by me. 

An Oldie But Goodie...McCall's 6886

I really like the fit on this pattern and it's versatility. I have yet to make the v-neck version - one day. I've made this 3 times and whenever I finish one I think "I should make another one!" :)

This pattern has 124 reviews on Pattern Review, some of them multiples - it's a solid pattern.

As per usual, I sewed a size 14/16/18 - 14 at the neckline/shoulder, 16 at bust/waist and 18 through the hip. I make the neck binding based on amount of stretch in my fabric.

I got the bright idea to have the larger ruffle finish off the neck binding - it worked out beautifully! Yay me! Then it sat for a long time awaiting sleeves once I realized it was semi-sheer. When I came back to it, lightbulb! Finish the sleeves and hem the same way! LOL!

I used a twin needle and had a ton of tunneling. With this fabric, it works.

I was going to make a slip but just never got around to it. And then I ended up finding this Vassarette slip for $9. I'd still like to make one though. I went with a size L and the fit is okay. It's "reversible" for the neckline (straight or V) but that means the front and back piece are the same otherwise. So I technically don't have enough butt room. But $9 and I can wear my dress - win!

Also, here are better shots of the Burda pants. I ended up adding the bands to fix the length issue I created. They're okay but I won't make this pattern again. Too much work for just okay.

I had taken all these pictures inside and then my daughter pulled up. I ran outside to try to get her to take pics but she was "SOOOO HUNGRY!!" so I got one (good one!)

Love that outdoor lighting!

The side panel is ridiculous being a simple rectangle (on a Plus pattern at that!).
There are so many seams! I was sewing and sewing and sewing. MEH! Side panels connecting to front and back, the inseam, the front waistband, the yoke, the back waistband, the hem bands, stitching the rows of elastic...just sewing and sewing and sewing and serging and serging and serging.

SO many seams

OK fine, I'll stop whining now.

I do like the elastic back but still...that's because they choose a rectangular back waistband instead of shaping it.

I've done the x wrinkle adjustment and always have some. I don't care about minor wrinkling like this though because I don't stand, stock still, knees locked in life. So when moving, walking, sitting...they're fine.

I've given up on the idea of a woven slim fitting pant. I don't like stretch wovens very much for my bottom half. I'm going to plan to get some of this (AWESOME!) DKNY thick wool ponte knit from SR Harris. They had black and charcoal which are perfect. I'll go that route for fall/winter.

We can't take down any of the remaining graduation decorations until she leaves next week :)

More next post on the W.G.D. (it's on Saturday!) and I'll review my super fantastic Kwik Sew skort!

June Wrap-Up and Midyear Check-in

Err. This is an epic post of epicness...Don't say I didn't I warn you.


This month I sewed 10 1/4 yards:

• Style Arc Cara top in floral cotton (lawn?): 1 yard
• Burda 05/2016 #113 dress-as-nightshirt in floral knit and striped/patterned knit: 3 yards total
• Burda 6/2016 #105 dress in animal print cotton stretch twill: 2.5 yards (pattern calls for 2 or 2 1/8; I'm not sure about that. Could just be me and how I cut?? I used all 2.5 yards)
• Style Arc Cara top in white cotton eyelet: 1.5 yards (narrower fabric and wanted to use the scalloped edge)
• Vogue 9056 top in black/white striped ponte - 1 yard (WIP)
• M6886 dress in pale blue textured knit - 1 1/4 (WIP)

Favorite: I am head over heels with my Burda birthday dress! It's one of my favorite makes ever.

FAIL: An overall good month! If I had to list a fail, it would be procrastinating on the Burda. I knew it wouldn't be difficult, just a little time consuming, so I didn't push myself to get started, and I almost missed my deadline not ordering notions in time. 

Accomplishment:  I sewed all the things in my "planning" list from my May! Woohoo! 

Mid Year Goals Check

Where has the year gone?!?! This is bananas!

At the start of the year, I had some goals:

Patterns:

Goal was to use more of the Style Arc patterns I've purchased and to use ANY of the Jalie patterns.

No and almost yes (ha!). I've sewn some SA patterns but they've been new patterns that I had to have and then sewed up right away. I have a decent stash of SA patterns and need to use them. I have sewn my first Jalie (Scarf collar top) and LOVE it!

Here is the muslin:

I remember buying this fabric thinking DD would love it; but she did not. So it's been awaiting it's turn to become something. I think I actually like it for this top! I wasn't paying attention and cut the back with the faces right side up but the front they're upside down. Plus I didn't want to waste fabric for the ties in case this didn't work out so I ended them where the fabric ended for the other pattern pieces. So this particular version won't be finished.

I've made a 5/8" swayback adjustment, small 1/4" armhole dart + cheater FBA. DO NOT be surprised if my next post has like 4 of these. Seriously. I'm in love with the fit through the shoulders and upper back and the length is perfect. I'm off work until Tuesday so sewing WILL happen :) just not today or tomorrow. One more trip to the college with my daughter until move-in day!

My other WIPs:

M6866 in this lovely blue-grey textured knit that is too thin for a dress. I'm going to copy a cami and lengthen it to a slip (from tricot). I love the fit too much to give it up or chop it to a top!

V9056 in black/white ponte.

I was sad-mad when I realized this view has no seam allowance at the neckline or armholes. It's to be left raw. No. No. NO! I made a binding that works. I was debating if I should hem it but I don't mind it un-hemmed...but those other raw edges would not work for me. Photos to come soon.

New Mid Year Goal: The illustrious Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic has challenged me! She knows I lament on my pattern collection and then I buy more patterns. And then I have dozens of patterns strewn about all over...Sigh. So she has challenged me to No New Patterns! til the end of the year. No envelope patterns, no PDF patterns, no FREE PDF patterns. No. New. Patterns. The exception is Burda because obvs, I subscribe.

I accept the challenge!

Fabric:

I was starting to feel overwhelmed by the stash. I don't know how many yards I've added but I've only placed 6 (!!) Fabric Mart orders this year and 2 Fashion Fabrics Club orders. I visited the new SR Harris and bought 3 yards of denim and I purchased a couple of cuts from Hancock before the closure. In contrast, in 2015 I placed 15 Fabric Mart orders in the first half of the year--Plus who only knows how many visits to Hancock and SR Harris (a lot).

We'll call that progress!

Budget:

I never set a specific number but I know that I've spent less on sewing this year than any other. A large part of that is due to moving, my daughter's graduation and party, etc.

Skills:

I listed 6 skills in my 2016 post:

1) Floaty fabrics: Nope. All the nopes. I have yet to fully attempt to tame the floaty fabric beast.

2) Sew a blazer: Not yet. I want to, I really do. It'll probably be a Burda. And probably in August!

3) Sew at least 6 (for the year) Burda patterns: Done! This year, IMO, has been phenomenal for Burda. I've sewn something from each issue so far this year. And I'm planning to go the distance. Sewing at least one thing, for myself, from each issue of the magazine.

Jan-Feb-Mar-Apr-May-June

4) Sew a prom dress: DID THAT! It was challenging and I had to get creative at times and stretch myself. It was a fantastic experience.

5) Sew pajamas: I sewed 2 nightgowns! :) I still need pj shorts and pants. So this is still a goal.

6) Sew a summer wardrobe: Quasi completed. I made some dresses and tops. I think I don't really know what I want in a summer wardrobe! And one may think; well it's only July...but usually by August I'm moving on to fall sewing. Because September is hit or miss. And by October it can be winter. LOL! Ok, not winter, winter, but cold enough for tights and boots and coats...like how we have 55 degree mornings and it's the end of June!

I think I'm off to a good start for the first half of 2016!

On a personal note; with my birthday being in early July, it's always a reflective time. Halfway through another year...another year older. It always makes me take a step back and examine where I am in my life. So, I'll be turning 37 in a few days. I'll be getting divorced in a few months. I'll be sending my first kid off to college in 7 weeks. I moved this year and L-O-V-E my new house. June made a year at my job. I'm in a good place. I like it!

Okay fine...I just sneaked that in there. :-p It's been an uphill battle for awhile (as in  >50% of the marriage) with blended family issues.  Add in some other stuff and the best decision for everyone is to go our separate ways.

July Plans

Guess what I have NOT done? 

Worked on DDs quilt since like February. I'm a horrible mom. I don't know if it'll be completed before school starts. Maybe she won't notice. Maybe I can send it for her birthday - which is like 2.5 weeks after school starts.

Oy. 

So...

-Quilt top
-Burda Challenge for July

-Dress for a bridal shower 

-Fabric Mart post  (I need new skirts so perhaps I'll try to go in that direction)

When I drafted this post I was set on making like 30 million skirts (or 2-4, same thing). Well, I was bored and it was a beautiful day so to escape the chill of the office I went to the mall and found cute skirts at Ann Taylor Loft!

I was just combing through my patterns for a skirt pattern for a cut of white rayon twill and found this for $10.

It looks REALLY cute on me! I'll model it with my new Jalie tops :)

And I found this one but not in my size. I found it online and debated ordering it (I hate their $8.95 shipping and feel like cardholders should get a better deal). Well today they were having a free shipping special on all orders. Score! So for $25, I got this one too:

We'll have to wait for it to come to tell if it's love. The white skirt is a 14 and in-store they had this one in a 10. Hahaha! I put it "on my body" and decided it could be cute if it were, you know, my size.

Graduation Celebration: McCall's 7167

This past weekend was a whirlwind of activity and while I was exhausted on Monday, I was grateful to have spent such a fantastic weekend with family and friends!

Before the ceremony:

He was proud of his big sis!

I didn't cry but I sure felt a swell of emotion at her completing 

one phase of life and moving on to the next!

This is my favorite from during the ceremony. It's like she's 5 again :-D

We had family and friends come in from North Carolina, Georgia, Illinois and Arizona

My parents, 2 of my 3 siblings, 1 sister in law, 12 of my 14 nieces and nephews, my great-niece and great-nephew. 

WHEW!  Plus my nephew's girlfriend and 2 of my cousins. 

There was yummy delicious food and CAKE! And because she loves her name, I ordered this custom wall decal from Wordybird Studios on Etsy (nayy, just cute stuff at good prices with fast shipping!)

This is my all-time favorite baby picture of her! She was 4 months old and full of chubby goodness :)

We got rained out and I ended up with DOZENS of people crammed into my house. It was exhausting but so worth it. 75 days until she moves into her dorm room! :-O

On to the outfit!!

I was all super proactive about starting my jumpsuit and still ended up stitching the final parts about an hour before we were supposed to leave. OY!

This was on Memorial Day! I had made so much progress!!!

(Could be because I sewed up the Style Arc Cara top in the middle of working on it. Hahaha! Review and photos to come)

I have standard adjustments that are needed with Big4 patterns and this one was no different. Tissue fitting the bodice confirmed:

3/4" swayback

3/8" tuck on front (always needed for V-neck and wrap/surplice bodices)

3/8" wedge removed from center back (tapering to nothing at the waist)

Lowered bust point 1"
Added 1" to waist

And also:
3/4" Added to back rise*
1/2" removed from front rise*

I got the bodice and lining done, basted in a zipper and woe is me! There was gaping at the armhole.

Especially noticeable on the side where I'm holding my phone

This is something I consistently forget about and thanks Jess (as usual!) for reminding me that since the pattern has sleeves, an adjustment is needed to make it sleeveless. I've seen this discussed plenty on blogs that do a bit more educating. I considered unpicking but seriously, it was sewn and seams were graded and understitched AND I was running out of time. I took a dart at the armhole as close to the side seam as I could. It wasn't perfect but it looked much better than it did before with the gaping. And putting it there meant when my arms were down, it was fairly unnoticeable.

The dart

*I know jumpsuits need a bit more crotch depth but wasn't thinking. IT IS JUST BARELY OKAY! I did my normal crotch adjustments but I should have added MORE to the back and removed NOTHING from the front. OY.

Then, I sewed my two back inseams together. I haven't done that in AGES. And the sad part is, As I was pressing it open (before serging), I was so confused as to how I was going to join the front with the back. Went right over and serged those seams together. Good grief.

L, over at You Sew Girl taught me how to easily remove serger stitches. I can't remember if it was in a blog post or if it was something she mentioned here but...you cut both needle threads every other/every few threads like regular stitches and then you can just pull the looper threads and it all unravels nicely.

Unpicking the regular stitches from the spongey poly crepe almost made me cry though! Plus, I had already trimmed with the serger! I ended up measuring what seam allowance was left (which was more than 3/8" but less than 1/2" (we'll call it 7/16"!) and trimmed the front pieces down to match. Whew.

My next snag came with the zipper. I realized after the fact that the Cara top got sewn because I didn't know what the hell to do with the zipper. I was so confused as to how I would get the invisible zipper in with the crotch seam done up already. And I didn't want to risk that horrible lump at the end. I then realized it was NOT intended to have an invisible zipper, it was a centered zip.

There are very few instances where I like centered zips. Very few. I was going to go exposed but decided this didn't really match that styling and went with a lapped zipper. Once I got that in, I was back in business!

This was 9:30 p.m. the night before!

I sewed the hems by hand and sewed the lining to the bodice by hand as well. Posted on IG one hour before showtime:

Everyone was playing board games and making fun of me working my butt off to finish!

I really love the jumpsuit - even the pleats! Finishing it did not catapult it to a "fave" for June though. I do like it a lot and was very comfortable in it; and the color - LOVE! But the imperfections are frustrating on this one.

I do think the crepe was a great choice for it and besides having to work a little harder at pressing, it was easy to handle and sew. I went with an ivory pongee lining and only after I cut the front pieces out did I have a "duh, you need to line the back too!" moment. So the front, including waistband is lined in ivory and the back in a pale yellow. Hey, it works!

I was going to put it back on today and take some photos but I'm tired! Sorry!! Perhaps the next time I have to take blog photos (ahem, Cara top and Burda skirt??) I'll get some front/side/back basic pics.

All the things...

WIP! FAIL! Success!!

I decided to enter the Pattern Review skirt contest because 1) I need more summer skirts and 2) it's sponsored by Fabric Mart (what?!). I decided on Burda 6769 in a dark denim.

I haven't had a ton of sewing time the past 2 weeks but got started on this last Sunday. I'd gotten the front pockets done and for some odd reason thought I would finish this on "cat lady Friday" (that's how I now refer to Friday nights as both kids normally work til close!). What on earth was I thinking?! Pfft. All that top-stitching AND my old machine is being a bugger and so I have to switch between regular and top-stitching thread. Boooooo!

Last night I got the side seams sewn. I really wanted to top-stitch them because of how they wrap around to the front but not sure I can sew inside the tube neatly. And THEN I ran out of top-stitching thread. Sheesh. So I have to grab more today and hopefully can get it finished.

I took a TON of photos while this was in progress so be prepared for a hefty blog write up.

Progress shot posted on IG

I need to get started on M7167 if I'm going to have that ready to wear on Thursday. I also need to get more party stuff and get a bunch of boxes out of the dining room (that's the only room that isn't fully unpacked).


One of my May items was this M7386 skirt. I just loved the look of it and thought it would be cute. Well, this is not the first time I've tried a maxi skirt on me and hated the outcome. Maxi dress? Sure. Skirt? Meh. This fabric (from Fashion Fabrics Club) was awful too. Which I'm sure doesn't help.

I cut out a size L and sewed it up.

And then went back and removed about 3" total from the side seams. I didn't finish the waist before taking these pics because I won't wear it. I just don't like it at all.  I may finish it for my mom though. But I'd have to lose like 3-4" from the length and I don't know how that'll affect the shape of it.  We'll see if I get around to it...

Do I have curves? Yes. But I am still quite rectangular in shape. And this OVER emphasizes that. I don't fancy looking like a column. Even when it's pretty flowers ;-)

Win some. Lose some.

Lastly, I sewed up S8138 in an olive crepe georgette and wore it to see Queen Bey! last Monday. Read all about that project over on the Fabric Mart Blog.

2 New Dresses: McCall's 6884 and Vogue 8904

I'm so happy with these two!

I'm not 100% sure I'm going to finish the contest but no matter, I am off to a great start for my casual summer wardrobe!!!

I first attempted V8904 December 2014 (here). It was a disaster.

Mostly due to the fabric but I've lost enough weight that the size I'd originally cut fits much better now.

I got the striped jersey awhile ago and it felt a little too heavy at first for this pattern. The front and back are a basic tank dress and then the shingles (4 front and back on this view) are added. That is quite a bit of layering. But once I started working with it, it proved to be a nicely behaved jersey. Bonus - the edges don't curl after cutting. Score!

I cut a size 16 with no changes. I cut the front piece out and then the shingles. I marked the underlayer by folding up the paper and then making a dotted line with a fabric marker.

The shingles are the same front and back. Sooooo I was cutting everything right side up, single layer and cut out ALL of the back shingles. Also right side up.

When I went to attach the back shingles I realized my error. DOH. I had to eek out those additional layers and just barely made it! WHEW! But that meant not having the 3/4 sleeves I envisioned.

I attached the shingles on the sewing machine and then basted front shingles to front and back to back. I then serged the side seams.

I made no attempt to stripe match but it seems it went okay. Score!

I am very happy with the dress! Very happy!!! 

McCall's 6884 has been made a couple of times before and just makes me super happy. It's only time consuming because of hemming the fronts but otherwise it's such a quick project with lots of bang for the buck IMO.

I cut a size 16 as per usual for this pattern. I added black bands to the neckline and armholes after deciding to go with a colorblocked option.

Remember a couple years ago when this striped/floral print was huge?! I managed to snag 2 yards of this nice ITY from Fabric Mart back in summer of 2014 and have been hoarding it. Well, 2 yards was not enough for a maxi dress! But 18-month sewer me didn't know that :)

I was all distraught and was going to go with a short option when I remembered the version I made here. Ahhhhh I can use solid black and that'll be awesome!!! 

I absolutely ADORE this dress! I am certain this will be a go-to option this summer!

My posture is so bad. I swear my side seam isn't that crooked (on the bodice) but POSTURE!

I just love the floral print over the black & white stripe

Little bit of a split there! :-O 

LOL! But it isn't open or doesn't open very high when you walk.

Love. Love. LOVE!!!  I will probably make another one and add a couple of inches to wear it with heels. 

McCall's 7194; Take 2

It's been a month since I sewed the first version! How does time manage to move that fast?!

I really wanted to give view A a shot (and potentially in some yummy wool jersey I've got in stash) and while organizing my fabric on New Year's Day, I came across this remnant from the dress I made my daughter for her senior photos. I realized it had that same *just* off white color as my recent M7199 cardigan and put them in a bin to become a raglan sweatshirt.

But then I decided I needed this 'white' top to be more work appropriate. I was all woe is me because I didn't have enough of the solid for the front, sleeves and cowl, but had plenty of the textured fabric, and had written the project off.

Well, DUH! I can use the textured for the front and back and just do 'contrasting' sleeves and cowl. Sheesh! :)

I still had to adjust for lack of fabric and folded out 2" of the cowl. It doesn't drape as much, but it still works.

I did a cheater FBA by pivoting and sliding because I knew this fabric had very little stretch. I ended up using 1/4"(!) seam allowances.

This fabric hardly stretches so it's snug but not uncomfortable

The lacy fabric is so pretty :)

I whipped this up SO FAST! I had the entire thing constructed on the serger in like 30 minutes. Then another half hour to do the hemming with a twin needle. Gotta love those quick and dirty projects.

Next up I'll be working on DDs dress muslin. I got the Burda bodice all traced off and plan to cut out the paper pattern tonight, cut out the muslin tomorrow, and sew up the muslin Friday/Saturday.

I'm excited! :-)

So-So Start to January

Well not quite. I have to hem my last B6066 dress and that is a success.

But these two items..there's nothing wrong with them. I don't dislike them...but I'm not moved by them, I don't love them, they're just okay.

I was so excited about M7199 when it was released. It was like so many RTW cardigans and like the popular Style Arc Marie

I had this striped crepe knit in the stash and a solid colored sweater knit that matched the darker color (the stripe). I wanted to make a shell and striped cardigan and decided this pattern would be a fun play on the stripes.

Everyone that made this mentioned that you'd want something drapey because of the large double-layered collar. 

However, that was a no-go with the zipper.

The zipper was just too heavy (even with interfacing), it was TOO drapey for me and way, way, way too long. 

I salvaged the zipper and tossed it. I decided to dive back in with a ponte but to skip the zippered version. And there was no way I was leaving it that long. 

The back is MUCH longer than the front but I liked the shaped hemline.  I couldn't figure out a way to keep the shaping but shorten the back as significantly as I wanted to. I started with removing 3 inches from the pattern pieces which did allow me to keep the front curvature but when I got the body sewn up that was still far longer than I wanted it to be so I chopped off ANOTHER 3".

That's SIX inches in back length removed!

I don't know about you but that pattern envelope does not make it appear that long. Yes, there is a back length finished measurement but still. :)

My ponte is a bit light and I didn't find it too heavy at the collar.

There's more 'swing' in that back piece than I like. Again, in retrospect this is obvious from the pattern piece. Not my favorite.

I like it open!

The facing is the front piece and lower side front only (not the upper side front). I edgestitched at the side seam and around the neckline to secure the facing. 

I remembered that I had this white leather scrap in the stash and decided to DIY a toggle button closure. 

My fabric is actually off-white but I knew this would work out okay.

When I wore it I figured out my mistake: The button side was supposed to be stitched on the other side of the seam. Ooops! That explains why it's a little too droopy in front when closed.

I love my top-stitching!

So again, no, it's not horrible or awful or the worst thing ever...but thus far, it isn't loved.

Following my January plans I cut out Simplicity 1374, which I mentioned was made before. I made it before in a cotton sateen type fabric. I decided to use this ponte for the color and had a matching zipper in stash so decided to go exposed zip.

Colleen G. Lea of Fashion Sewing Blog TV is theeeee best! I just love her tutes. Always clear and easy to understand! You Tube tutorial (nayy)

I've done an "exposed zipper" before because I thought: interface the area, line the zipper up, edge stitch.

Nope. Nope.  Nope!

It's far more involved than that but OMG it results in such a beautiful finish!

I can't stop staring at it! :)

It totally took like an hour to insert the dang thing but I don't really "need" to undo the zipper to put the top on. But it's fantastic!

I did a 3/4" swayback adjustment, lowered the dart about an inch, and sewed it with a 2" hem. 

The ponte had drape compared to the woven and it felt so unstructured. I thought a deep hem may help and it really did make a difference.

The NECKLINE! I do love that bateau on me!!!

Again, like the cardigan, just not a love. Nothing wrong with it, don't dislike it but...

I'm sure I'll wear it and absolutely love the color!