Patterns and Planning; Oh My!

I got back in town Friday night, and was without sewing mojo. I'd started a new hat during my 6 hour airport stay and was eager to finish it. I knit a little on Saturday and Sunday morning and realized I really could finish it if I pushed. So I did. Yay!

The pattern is Boardwalk, free on Ravlery.

I made this one before and chose it because I remember it being really fast. I made it up in Paton's classic wool in this deep berry color. 

Sewing plans!

When I planned on making the S2311 coat, the plan was caramel fashion fabric and a 'very berry' pongee lining. Well...the new Simplicity patterns were released and I was all gaga over this Leann Marshall coat and S2311 got shelved. I mean...SWOON

This coat will be main focus for November. I think it is absolutely beautiful. I will be cutting it close, squeezing it from 3 yards but I think I can do it!

My second big focus for November will be my first quilt. I know I said I had no interest in quilting. And people keep telling me I'm going to become addicted (I will try not to!). I really want to make a full-sized quilt for DD when she leaves for college and I have just under 2 years to do so! :) I'm taking it easy this time and making my own jelly roll strips to do a "Jelly Roll Race Quilt" in baby size. It looks easy and fun and I don't have to worry about a pattern. 

The fabric on top is the backing

Lastly, I have a couple of cuts of fabric that want to become blouses. These are the patterns I'm considering.

Simplicity 1253, McCall's 6898

Vogue 1387, In-House Belle Bow blouse

 I may be able to eek out S1253 plus one of the others since it's a simpler style...we will see. The McCalls pattern has 813 pieces and I unfolded it to cut it out and put it right back in the envelope! The Vogue seems really scary and complicated and the In House blouse is a wildcard because of fitting (although they draft for a D cup - YAY!)

As for the rest of October...I will be making a quick & easy knit dress for myself - I'll pass out candy as a witch! And a dress for my daughter for Halloween. So that will definitely consume the rest of the week.

Finished Item: S2860 and Knitting and Coat Progress

I got so far with my coat yesterday. SO FAR!!!!! Then I was foiled. FOILED!

The whole attaching a lined cap sleeve and a ponte undersleeve to a lined bodice is tricky. Tres tricky my friends. I had to put it down and think about it. I think I've figured it out.

I also had to figure out the "corners" where the facing, hem and lining all come together. I think I've figured that out too. I've also figured out that I'm going to have to take this thing to someone for a professional pressing. My Black & Decker is no match for several layers of boucle...I just am not getting crisp seams and that's not allowed! :)

I'm rocking and rolling...except I realized that my snaps are not in the right position. Any of them. I used the markings on the pattern. Why? WHY?????!!!! So now I have to redo them and I swear it took me over an hour to sew those dang things on.

Sorry...you have to get one more "in progress" shot! LOL! I hope to finish by the weekend...

If you look closely, you can see it pulling at the waist snap. No bueno.

After futzing around and not feeling like redoing the snaps last night, I decide I need (NEED!) to sew something. Life is messing with me lately and I am going into whiny "woe is me" mode. Sewing and spending time with my kids really help to pull me out. And oh how I wish I could pop over to Mama and Papa's house :-(

I digress.

I made baby K some pj pants!!

Why yes. That IS a JoAnn's ad and a Wawak catalog in the background!

 

I used Simplicity 2826 which is now OOP. 

Looks pretty old school... but it works!

 The largest size in my envelope was a 3 so you know me...easy way out! I cut a 3 and just did a super hem. I intended to make hot pink ties but was on a roll and forgot. She'll get more...these went together TOO easily. One piece. ONE PATTERN PIECE!!!! Inseams. Crotch seam. Waist. Hem. Done. Took maybe 45 minutes.

My hat is awesome! It's all thick and fluffy and too warm for the current weather but so what. It is awesome!!

Pattern is free on Ravelry and uses worsted and like, size 8s. Goes SUPER FAST. (Boardwalk)
Oh but don't be like me. DO use smaller needles for your ribbing...
I used Lion Brand Heartland that is a really great acrylic. It knits up very well. it isn't splitty and is barely squeaky. I like it! I think it'll be my choice for next years hats and mittens,


Lastly, I love this cat. :)

She's a guard-attack-ninja kitty!

Miscellany

i FINALLY cut the Burda Style Illusion jacket! Here are some progress pics (it's a bit further along now)

I'm reading a pretty good book

I'm knitting my first hat (I never finished my other first hat because I didn't understand some things and the pattern got OFF and yeah). I'm making progress in sewing AND knitting!

Lastly, I decided not to draft a lining for the S2153 jacket. The fabric has a nice weight. It's waterproof on the outside (almost typed 'OD' as in outer diameter. Too much metallurgy!) and a soft cottony texture on the inside. I decided on polka dot bias tape for the seams and facing. 

I went to JoAnn as quilting cottons were 30% off and I had a 15% off coupon. I couldn't get internet in the store and didn't know how much to buy. I decided to just go with a yard. There was a 5/8 yard remnant so I took that too. When I finally got reception, I learned that 1 yard of 45" fabric makes somewhere around 15 yards of bias tape. 

Oops! Lol!!!

On Sewing Plans, US Burda and Sweater Progress

Expect sew-a-palooza this weekend. :)

I have my B5678 shirt in need of hemming and buttonholes.
I have a dark, slate grey vest in progress (view C). I think it'll go great with said shirt.

I have 8,000 ideas of what I would LIKE to sew over the next few days...but it changes when the wind blows :)

6754, 5890, 6884, V8772

M6754 (the striped view) is already sewn. It just needs hems. Did that in about 45 minutes this morning - I even amazed myself!

M5890 looks 100,000x better made up than the envelope. I am going to make the dress and the top.

M6884 well...I just have to have it. I am not happy that it's a mock wrap though. I want a "real" wrap dress. I'm torn between what view to use though. I am thinking view A with the 3/4 sleeves.



And V8772 will be my next 'wearable muslin' for the fitted blouse contest. I am going to sew it in black as I want to sew the contest entry in a french blue striped shirting and do white contrast cuffs and collar! (fancy! hahaha)

 Those knits should whip up rather quickly and maybe I can start on the Vogue top.

Also - I have decided on my "New to Me Pattern Company" entry. It will be the Sewaholic Thurlow shorts. So maybe one of these projects will be back burner-ed so I can muslin the shorts.

AND, there is L's trench coat sew along!! I think I am going to go with Burda Style 11/2012 #118. I scored some black waterproof "jacketing" fabric from FabricMart for $1/yard in the last sale.




(mine will be shorter. Look how long it is on the model!)

Yes. I am a junkie.

 So I masquerade on Pattern Review as being on a fabric fast. I stink at it. I try! I really do!!!! But I think I still love collecting fabric and dreaming of the possibilities. Plus all of my stash is still easily contained. That means it's not nearly enough yet, right? RIGHT?!?!?! ;-) If it matters, I *always* confess! LOL!

*The top is a gorgeous cotton/nylon/lycra sateen. I think I can do a dress or definitely a skirt. It's two panels, each 32" (so about 1 3/4 yards of fabric) and they are 51" wide. The two panels ARE a single cut.
*Then there's brown sweater knit that is really light and airy. I have something in mind for it.
*The black jacketing fabric :)
*A rainbow of pongee lining (I like this stuff)
*3 cuts of chiffon. Deep sigh. I have yet to sew chiffon. But the purple and the plaid/floral are gorgeous. I am not sure about the blue floral. Maybe it'll be a muslin for something that the other two can become :)


Soooo I have become a Burda-holic. I eagerly(!!!) jumped at the Winter 2014 US edition. Yes, they are repeated patterns. That was okay with me as I don't have (many) past issues anyway. There were approximately 20 patterns on the sheets and 20 that you could download. Awesome.

The spring edition has arrived. There are 20 patterns on the sheets...and links to download the other 20 (21??) patterns...AT THE FULL PRICE OF $5.99 PER PATTERN! How is THAT for a bait and switch? Boooo Burda! Several of the things I liked in this mag are available to BUY online...not included in the magazine. The other few that I like are from 3/2013 which I own. So there are 2-3 patterns from this issue that I want to make. Bleh.

The deadline for my sweater is today. I will not meet it. But I am knitting up a storm!!! Hope to finish by the weekend.

*Short rows are used to create the sleeve cap but they are a bear for a first timer. I was going to try to fudge it (lol!!!) but then I (thankfully) found an explanation for the short row.

DUH! If I just knit a tube my sleeve will be stupid. I need to CREATE A SLEEVE CAP. Well of course, that made perfect sense to me. And I drudged on and did the short rows. I think sleeve #2 will be much less janky.

Fails and Dumb Luck; Finished Item M6927

So...Friday night I set out to cut and sew my New Look dress for the party. Oh boy, the initial parts went fast. The fabric is gorgeous. I can't wait to try it on! But I will wait til morning as I am full of sweet 'n sour chicken, I told myself.

Saturday morning I put the dress on - I had a weird hip bubble and zipper bubble. Zipper bubble I know how to fix. The hip bubble perplexed me. After having 1,087 things to do on Saturday, I never got back to the dress. I had to rewear my black party dress. :sigh: So I decided to go all glam (for me! LOL!) with hair and make up.

 

This was a biennial fundraiser for the private school my husband works for. The venue was gorgeous! Gorgeous!! There was amazing food and lovely decorations all in a black and white theme but jazzed up! There were plain black table cloths/couches/chairs and plain white but there was black glittery and black/white chevron and oh it was just pretty! 

And then I saw it.

Someone wearing jeans. 

I am not a fashionista in any sense but I know how to dress appropriately for the occasion! You don't need to wear a ballgown but jeans?!?! Gah.

ANYWAY, after the weird hip bubble incident I decide to switch gears. I pull out my ever-in-progress B5678 and start the topstitching on the cuffs. I ripped it out 4 times. I tried to just stitch in the ditch. Ripped out twice. 

DEEP SIGH.

Okay, I'll do the buttonholes. I have never ever ripped out buttonholes -- until Saturday. 3 times. And then I finally got a good buttonhole (and, duh, practiced on a scrap) but then guess what I did? Said, whew. That was difficult and turned all the darn dials back to the settings for straight stitch. And as you can guess...was not able to go back and get a decent buttonhole.

I quit. I quit!

Sunday morning I figured I needed a simple palette cleanser. A knit. A dark one (the serger had black thread in it). I traced and cut Burda 6910, view A





I used the black "jersey" that I picked up from SR Harris. It went together effortlessly and then I put it on.

DEEP SIGH.

I swear this material felt really, really nice on the bolt. I was so happy to have found a lightweight black knit. This fabric felt horrible on my skin! I can't describe it in any appropriate words, it was just nasty. Also; the short sleeved view is not for me. It hits right where my arm is biggest and wasn't at all attractive. So I plan to sew view B with the 3/4 sleeves this week as I *do* like the top and ruching is always my friend.

Overexposed to show details

Ruched with 1/8" elastic

I also messed up the neck binding but at that point I knew I'd never wear it due to the feel of the fabric.

::Oh gosh. My sewing mojo is dwindling now. Ok. Ok. Ok. I need something good. I need a good project!!!::

So I decide to completely switch gears and start my summer wardrobe like I've been wanting to. I pull out the new McCall's 6927 woven tee pattern (comes in sizes 8-16, A/B, C, D cups and 18W-24W, C/D, DD, DDD cup!)



I've seen a couple of reviews lately on PR with tops in graphic black & white prints and had a lightbulb moment! I have this awesome FabricMart burnout cotton voile in my stash! I only had 1 yard so I knew I'd be going sleeveless here.

(can anyone tell me why McCall's only has a 45" fabric requirement on this pattern??)

I decided to do view D without sleeves.

Can you see the happiness!?!?

Me and my not accounting for the hips...

Never thought I'd do the 'mullet hem'!

My loop and button aren't gorgeous on the inside but they work. Vents added due to hips :)

 So this is where the "Dumb Luck" comes in.

I pulled this pattern out and thought, "Hmmm. That's interesting that the size 14 has a 43" finished bust" and cut the front and back pieces out.

"Hmmm. Interesting that the dart is so big!"

By sheer luck, I cut the D cup pattern piece. I had paid zero attention. ZERO! lol! Also by sheer luck, I used grey thread that was already in my machine and it was perfect. Can we beg for ALL woven top/dress patterns to have cup sizing?!!?

I did a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment and 3/4" swayback adjustment.  One DOH! - The finished hip was 43" on the 14. Mine are 44". Should've graded to a 16 there...so I believe the back wrinkles aren't more 'swayback' but rather my fabric not fitting over my hips fully! :) There will be more of this top. I will make it right.

Otherwise, it went together very quickly and easily. The vents were new to me and easy to do as was the back slit. In the end I wanted to prance around in this top all day long. I even dug out a pair of shorts to make me feel more summery -- even if it is well below freezing still!

Other notes:
Switched to a microtex needle to sew as after ripping out the side seams to add the vents I noticed fraying. I interfaced the area and sewed the vents.

Used store bought bias binding (I know some people hate it but I'm spoiled to it!)

*should* have used french seams with this fabric but will pink the seams.

15 year old said I should "cut the butt flap off". But I'm kinda liking the butt flap... :-)

******************
Progress on my sweater!!!! :-)

Party Wear and February MAGAM Challenge

Still feeling blah.

I did not sew this weekend. It was so horrid. I tried. I tried to go into the sewing room but I felt so weak and nauseous on Saturday that I just couldn't. Wahhhhhh! Makes me shudder at how the entire month of September I did not sew, I did not buy fabric, I did not buy patterns. It was all utterly depressing. I wanted so badly to go to JoAnn's on Saturday to use my 60% off fabric coupon but I couldn't.

I did start the cataloging of patterns though. I've already found a few that were not in PR and about 4 that I have duplicates of. Oops.

Friday when I left work I was on the search for a sparkly cardigan. I had 20 minutes. As I was driving I remembered I had to pass Clothes Mentor. It's like "Once Upon a Child" for grown ups! It's not really a consignment store...you sell your "gently worn" (I hate that term) clothing to them for pennies and they re-sell for profit. They do carry some designers (way overpriced, imo) and I've totally been told they don't take garments from like Target and Express yet I saw garments from Express/Limited (same, imo) and the dress I bought is a Mossimo dress! Oy!!

ANYWAY, I tried on like 7 dresses and they all had sausage effect. I was discouraged. I also did not want to pay $22 for a used Gap cardigan (it was silver and sparkly and cute but $22?!). I found this simple sheath in the XL section (I was initially looking in the M which is why everything was horrific, apparently) and it was only $8! EIGHT DOLLARS! Snatched it right up. I liked the way it fits too. Of course I noticed right away that the neckline is too big on me (gaped a bit at front and back) and the armscye was too low. hahahaha! But I don't seem to have the same problems finding RTW that fits as many of my fellow sewers so I will consider that a blessing. While slightly too big at the neckline/armhole, it fit very well in the bust, waist and hip. And the length was perfect. Totally taking measurements from this dress when I am ready to make a sheath.

**I got lots of positive comments about sewing a lined dress however, I do not like the Cambie! (sorry!). Any other contenders for first lined dress you all can think of?

I also was tsk tsk'ing the dress for not having facings. So I kept thinking the lining was going to turn out in the front. But it was $8! Paired with my fa-vor-ite teal suede pumps and stockings (I *LOVE* stockings, hate pantyhose, and these have cool silicone strips so they actually stay put and don't slide down! And I've owned this pair for years, and have no clue where I bought them. :sadface:)

 

Overexposed to show the metallic threads

 

Ignoring the cat hair that has made it's way on to the dress... :) A little detail shot

 

I heart these shoes!

As usual, it was a great party, the food was SPECTACULAR and I only had 2 deserts. ;-)

For February I was thinking a vest (which I may still make) but I really want this jacket for spring and I am willing spring to come by March 1st. (it totally won't but a girl can dream)

It's reissued in the US edition of Burda Style; one of the patterns that is available for download vs. traceable in the magazine. It was originally in the 10/2012 edition; the Illusion Jacket. It has ponte sleeves which I think is pretty cool. I'm using this wool blend boucle from Fabric.com and pongee lining from FabricMart. Although after getting this pic, I'm thinking the lining is too green and I need something with more blue. We will see.

 In other news, my sweater is well on it's way! This yarn is one of the nicest acrylics I've ever used; but now I'm wishing I would have used a superwash. I don't think this yarn will hold it's shape well...although I also don't think I'm going to love the sweater. BUT I knew a test knit would make me "just knit a dang sweater already" and I won't be afraid to go ahead and start another one with the nicer yarn that I have.

 

No, You May Not Borrow My Husband! Finished Item: M4244 and Some Knitting!

I'll try not to make this too long.

I bought some pretty yarn from Knit Picks during the Black Friday sale and when it came in a hank, I had a mini freak out. You see, I have a ball winder but no swift and the last hank of yarn I got, I tried to wind it alone and it has been a tangled mess for oh...like 6 months.

But my husband said, no problem! Within the hour, the yarn was wound along with nearly all the rest of my sock yarn! YAY!!!!!

I now see the benefit of winding center pull skeins and oh yes, any skein of yarn that comes in this house will become a center pull ball!

I also finished my test knit and I don't love it. I am going to keep looking at it and try to love it. Otherwise, there'll be a giveaway here!

I LOVE the "metal" buttons though. I kept the card; I have to get more of those. I can see them on some cool jacket/blazer.

This was my first impression:

This is the photo I posted on the test page:

(totally not convinced)

I have finished a project! :-O

Papa's pajamas are done! Okay, I need a drawstring (the store-bought twill tape was like a half a step above ribbon), but the sewing is done!

McCall's 4244 is a men's pajama/robe pattern. 

REALLY big pockets!

Top stitching

Serged and turned up 1 1/4" and sewed a 1" hem. I left it simple in case my mom needs to shorten or lengthen them for him.

Buttonholes for the drawstring to feed through.

((I think I want to add a second row of stitching at the waistband. A small detail but...))

My Review:

Pattern Description: 

Belted robe has shawl collar, front pockets and raglan sleeves; top has long or short sleeves, front button closure, pocket on left side and side slits; pull-on pants or shorts have side seam pockets, casing and drawstring waist.

Pattern Sizing:

S-XXL, I made a Medium

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions stink.

Ok, the instructions are really basic. I get that PJ's are fairly easy and are often chosen by beginners. BUT I think there are easy techniques that could've been included that would make a better finished product-- like under stitching the pockets. There's no reason not to instruct the sewer to under stitch and it makes a HUGE difference in having pockets that won't flop out. 

Also, they had you leave an opening for the drawstring to go through at the center front seam rather than make buttonholes. Okay, even if you weren't going to put buttonholes because it might "scare" a beginner, you could at least instruct the sewer to interface the front area. Bleh.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the fit (I tried them on). I was worried the legs would be too wide but they aren't.

I *love* the huge side seam pockets.

Fabric Used:

100% cotton chambray from Fabric Mart.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I added 3" to the length. My dad is only 5'11 but has really long legs. I also didn't turn over the hem, I just serged and stitched. My mom sews (but not many garments) so I figured if she needs to let down or take up the hem it'll be easier this way. My parents live hundreds of miles away so :)

The drawstring is made from the fabric but I wanted to use twill tape. However the packaged stuff I have on hand stinks. I'll have to pick some up or make the tie from the fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might make some for DH! He needs new PJs and needing like a 36" inseam means store-bought are always too short.

Recommended especially if you know what to do to get a better project. Though a rank beginner can get a decent pair of pj's from this pattern.

Conclusion: 

Hopefully my dad likes them and can fit them! I will get pics updated after Christmas if so!