Not *too* Boring Basics: Butterick 5760

versions 5 and 6... :) Hey, that's what TNT's are for!!!

I'm at the point where I really need to retrace this pattern onto something nice and sturdy, it's starting to look a little beat up.

As per usual, I cut a 16 front and 18 back. I removed the excess fabric from the front skirt that is supposed to be gathered. The side seams are always basted before being sewn - different fabrics or if it's lined or unlined affects the fit. Both of these are unlined, they're both sateen with a slight stretch, so both have 5/8" side seams until just after the hip and it increases to 1-1 1/4". I haven't adjusted the pattern for the pegging - even though I often peg it - because you just never know. I do like the skirt in it's original width, it just depends on the fabric I'm using...and it doesn't take much to tweak side seams.

The one thing I DO need to change on the pattern is the hip curve. I don't need that much curvature and always remove it.

I finished the panel-print sateen skirt 2 weeks ago. Honestly...where does the time go!?!  I'm sure some of you have seen this Maggy London sateen 'in the wild'. I passed on it twice and then saw a dress made up on PR and the next time it went on sale I managed to snag a panel.

I *just* eeeked out my skirt with the single panel!!!

just scraps remain!

I tried to match at the side seams as best I could.

I ended up having to cut the facings from a different fabric. I rummaged through the scrap bin and used this lightweight suiting (I made a bias cut skirt from Burda mag with it last year). It is white/black on one side and black/white on the other.

I went with an invisible zipper and topstitched hem.

The color is really 'me'. I have a few tops in my wardrobe that I can pair this with. I love it with this coral tee (Target) and my new jacket.

My son was in the room while I was taking photos and he had me laughing the entire time. You can see how terrible my posture is on this back photo :/ Also, it is a "sensitive time" and I seriously look 4 months pregnant about 2 days a month. I always manage to want to photograph something fitted during this time! LOL!!! 

Because olive is one of my favorite colors, I have plans to add a few more items in this color to the wardrobe. This fabric is closer to a moss/ivy green but it's in the family, and that works for me! :)

When I made these olive pants I was surprised by how versatile the color is. That led me down a path of wanting all the olive things! :)

And they fit better now! :-p

For this skirt, I wasn't as smart as I was with the floral one. The fabric is narrower so I ordered 1 1/4 yard. On the floral skirt I cut front, waistband, then back.  This time I cut front, waistband, facings then...uh oh. I can't fit my back piece because of the vent. I moved things around, over and over and in the end I had to cut single layer and eliminate the vent. But it worked out! Whew!

I am all for serging the edge of facings but I had a bit of red bias tape to match my serger thread, Oh and on this one I went for a centered zip and again...topstitched hem

I forgot to serge the back seams before sewing the zipper. Arrrgh!

(this is closer to the true color than the photo above)

Yep! It's love! I think I will be pulling this out A LOT this fall, even though this sateen wrinkles if you think about maybe looking at it! :-p

*********************

This month I jumped into the trends and sewed a bomber jacket for my Fabric Mart project! In a crazy printed ponte - and I love it!

It's a Burda pattern -- which Burda's consistency and fit make up for their awful instructions to me! I cut my normal 40 neckline / 42 for the rest but since I used ponte and the pattern was intended for satin, I left off the full bicep adjustment and because it is gathered at the hem, I didn't worry about a swayback adjustment. I made slightly narrower bands than the pattern called for and used a run-of-the-mill black zipper from Wawak. I have been staying away from poly/lycra pontes (give me some rayon!!) but for something like this, it's okay with me. I also lined it with a poly/lycra interlock and left out the interfacing. You can check it out over on the Fabric Mart blog!

The Fabricista Fashion Challenge will be starting up soon so I won't be posting for September. I really enjoy watching the progress! Also, the PR Sewing Bee will be starting in September! It's not my kind of comp so I won't be sewing, but I'll be watching - for sure.

Ooh...Shiny!

There was a recent post on Pattern Review where Deepika asked about sewing patterns (har, har) and the seasons. I hadn't really given it a ton of thought before but summer sewing is not high on my radar. I mean, I sew during the summer - of course - but summer is just in the way of fall! :)

I love fall. It has always been my favorite season. I love the cool-to-warm temps (NOT HOT!). I love the smell in the air, the leaves...and I love fall fashion! I am downright gleeful when I can pull my boots out of their hiding places!

As August appears on the horizon, I start thinking about what I want to sew for fall. There's always a mix of 1) what I need (I think I need more fall dresses and jackets) 2) fabrics I want to sew (we all know how inspiring a particular piece can be 3) and patterns I want to sew. This may or not may mimic #1! Sometimes, you just want to sew a pattern, in a fabric, and maybe it isn't a thing that you really "need" at all.

I posted this pic on Instagram after rifling through the stash a bit. Full planning post to come!

In the meantime, there are a few more summer patterns that I "need" to get done. I recently finished up my July Fabric Mart project and knew I had to make another one in a print!

You can read all about this piiiiink linen version of Burda 6732 HERE on the Fabric Mart Blog.

So I ended up ordering some fabric during the FM P-Z sale and have a fun printed challis on the way to me for round 2.

But what to sew NOWWWW?

I wanted to make M7391 in chambray but got all scared of the eyelets. But I've been assured (sewing friends are the best!) that I can do it. So that's on the agenda.

I don't have a ton of fabric so it'll likely be view D shortened to tunic length (length of B/C)

In the meantime, after scaring myself off of the eyelets, I decided I'd make M7388 out of a lovely print rayon challis. But, it's lined! Wahhh! I did not have anything appropriate for the lining so that got put away.

Then I saw a version of Burda 07/2016 #117 on PR without the crazy wrap-around neckstrap and went straight home, traced, cut, and starting sewing the pattern! haha!

Progress as of this morning:

Lastly, I've been wanting to sew this Style Arc Susan skirt since I ran to purchase it last July.

Do you have whiplash yet!? This happens to me sometimes. Especially considering I went a couple of weeks without sewing at all.

I'm sure this is intended for 'swishier' knits but I just couldn't shake the idea of using this floral (lightweight) double knit for the pattern. And I figured, it would just give it a little more body...what's wrong with that?? So I crossed my fingers and charged ahead!

This fabric is, of course, from Fabric Mart. It has some really beautiful shades of blue and purple that I rarely incorporate into my wardrobe. Plus, I decided I couldn't go another moment without a floral skirt :)

I used a size 14 (typically 12 up top, 14 skirts, 16 pants. Which explains why I am always "afraid" of trying a SA dress. Soon) and sewed the side seams at 1/4" instead of 3/8". I used 1/2" elastic (just turned and stitched a casing).

I constructed this completely on the serger, it's SO SWINGY! But it comes like 6" past my knees. I don't understand why it's so long :(

I'm going to have to measure very carefully and "connect all the dots" to trim this down. I tried it on with high wedge sandals and it still looked kind of blah. I can't say that I normally choose midi-length...

I do love this fabric as a skirt though so I'm going to try to make it work! 

I think I'm leaning towards option #3 for the WGD! It's so flirty and fun while still being totally appropriate for a wedding! It's intended for knits so unless I completely bomb out on finding fabric that I love...that's the plan! But I also *love* option #6. If I can find a complimentary lace/eyelet and other fashion fabric?? Which seems like a BIG if...That may win out. 

Burda Challenge May and June!

Well first, a quick photo of my second Style Arc Cara top. I finished the first one and knew immediately that I needed a white one! Really, almost any top you love can stand to be done up a 2nd time in white! :) I also knew it needed to be eyelet! And then I saw this fabric with a scalloped hem at Hancock and had to have it.

It's pretty narrow so while it calls for just under a yard, I got 2 to be safe. I left as much of the other side that I could in case I can find another use for the scalloped edge.

The only changes were to add side seam length so I could use the scalloped edge - so the proportions are a little different than intended but it's okay to me. And I cut the back elastic to 14" instead of the recommended 15.5" for my size.

I still need to hem the sleeves and it'll be ready to wear! I think it's so cute!

I mentioned in my June planning post being unsure of what to sew for May and decided to go with the slip dress as a nightgown. PERFECT pattern for it!

I used a size 40 neckline/armhole and graded to a 42 as per usual. I used a really soft knit that I got in a Fabric Mart bundle so composition is unknown. I added no hem allowance and removed 1" from the hem and then hemmed it at 1 1/4".

One of the views had braided straps and I thought that was pretty awesome. I cut strips, on the crossgrain that were each 1/2" wide. I safety-pinned the 3 together and braided them, keeping my tension as consistent as possible. I then passed it through the back strap, which is stitched down, and adjusted the length in front. They're just topstitched in place and feel pretty secure.

It is extra comfortable and I can't tell you how many times I've worn this to bed. I did a load of laundry just to have it available to me again! Must find more suitable fabrics in the stash!

The braided straps are my favorite :)

For June Burda (and Fabric Mart!) I sewed up this awesome little A-line number in an animal print stretch cotton twill.

Spoiler Alert: I LOVE IT!!!

Read all about it HERE on the Fabric Mart Blog

All the things...

WIP! FAIL! Success!!

I decided to enter the Pattern Review skirt contest because 1) I need more summer skirts and 2) it's sponsored by Fabric Mart (what?!). I decided on Burda 6769 in a dark denim.

I haven't had a ton of sewing time the past 2 weeks but got started on this last Sunday. I'd gotten the front pockets done and for some odd reason thought I would finish this on "cat lady Friday" (that's how I now refer to Friday nights as both kids normally work til close!). What on earth was I thinking?! Pfft. All that top-stitching AND my old machine is being a bugger and so I have to switch between regular and top-stitching thread. Boooooo!

Last night I got the side seams sewn. I really wanted to top-stitch them because of how they wrap around to the front but not sure I can sew inside the tube neatly. And THEN I ran out of top-stitching thread. Sheesh. So I have to grab more today and hopefully can get it finished.

I took a TON of photos while this was in progress so be prepared for a hefty blog write up.

Progress shot posted on IG

I need to get started on M7167 if I'm going to have that ready to wear on Thursday. I also need to get more party stuff and get a bunch of boxes out of the dining room (that's the only room that isn't fully unpacked).


One of my May items was this M7386 skirt. I just loved the look of it and thought it would be cute. Well, this is not the first time I've tried a maxi skirt on me and hated the outcome. Maxi dress? Sure. Skirt? Meh. This fabric (from Fashion Fabrics Club) was awful too. Which I'm sure doesn't help.

I cut out a size L and sewed it up.

And then went back and removed about 3" total from the side seams. I didn't finish the waist before taking these pics because I won't wear it. I just don't like it at all.  I may finish it for my mom though. But I'd have to lose like 3-4" from the length and I don't know how that'll affect the shape of it.  We'll see if I get around to it...

Do I have curves? Yes. But I am still quite rectangular in shape. And this OVER emphasizes that. I don't fancy looking like a column. Even when it's pretty flowers ;-)

Win some. Lose some.

Lastly, I sewed up S8138 in an olive crepe georgette and wore it to see Queen Bey! last Monday. Read all about that project over on the Fabric Mart Blog.

April Wrap Up and May Plans

This month I sewed 2 5/8 yards

• McCall's 7246

LOL!

It was my Fabric Mart contribution for April. I used their Kit, which I got pattern and fabric for free. I really do like the dress though! You can read about the project on their blog.

I thought for sure I was going to be able to squeeze in the Burda dress but alas...no time. My sweetheart of a daughter pleaded with me to "take in Ks dress just a little bit" at the bust. So there goes any time I would have used to work on my dress!  Soon though as that was intended to be my April Burda project.

For May, again, plans are being kept pretty light. I have a little more free time as DDs uncle (on dad's side) generously sent money to cover lots of her end-of-senior-year expenses. So she purchased outfits for some of the events she has coming up instead of having me sew some things.

I feel a disconnect right now from sewing (I know, I know...it happens) and just can't motivate myself to even make a sewing plan! (isn't that sad?!). Even looking at all of my newly acquired patterns isn't doing it for me.

So I'm going to keep it easy and say that in May I plan to sew:
*My Fabric Mart contribution

S8138 (from the latest release) in a textured olive crepe

*An outfit for graduation and/or the graduation party

For graduation I'm thinking M7167 with the solid back in crepe

For the party I'm thinking easy/relaxed flowy sundress - M7350

*My May Burda

I love this dress!!! 

*An outfit for the Beyonce concert

I scored cheap-o seats so DD and I will go. My May Burda or the FM project (over white skinny jeans) may be one in the same as the concert outfit...We shall see!

We had a little prom dress mishap but I have a recovery plan. Here's a (dark and tiny!) sneak peek

There'll be an overlay with the illusion attached to a belt from the satin. So I have to make the overlay (won't take long, no hemming of the illusion is required - yay!), fix the back (I'm going to change the illusion to match the 'v' of the lace), hem the illusion neckline and sleeves and DONE!

That's totally a lot! Prom is a week from Saturday. This has to be done, for my sanity, before I go to bed on Sunday.

Burda Challenge 02/2016 #121

I managed to get my March Burda done before February...but February was already in progress.

There were a couple of things in February that caught my eye but I'm always on the hunt for comfy sweatshirts (old, drafty house) and this one looked like it would work.

Burda 02/2016 #121 (tall sizes)

I also, for the first time ever, used a tall pattern altered down to regular sizes!

Yay me!

I cut a size 80 (40) and used the Burda instructions (printed in the mag and available here).  Because I never add hem allowance to regular sized Burda, I shortened appropriately and added no hem allowance; and attached the band using a 1/4" allowance.

The pockets are really simply constructed, which I like. But for some reason, my machine was NOT playing nice with this black ponte. I ended up scrapping a pocket and cutting a new one because it wasn't feeding well and the topstitching looked horrid.

I did bar tacks to mark the pocket opening. 

I like the idea but my machine stretched it out quite a bit. I was able to steam it back into place some.

I was stalled for a couple of days because I needed zippers. I've totally given up wasting my time shopping at JoAnn so I was waiting for Hancock to put zippers on sale :) (I know some people only have JA - sorry. I'm so glad they aren't my only option). The pattern calls for 10" zipper and it seems as if the standard is 9" then 12". So I went with 9" zippers figuring that I wouldn't miss an inch on a decorative zipper.

And Burda strikes again. I have no earthly idea what they were instructing with the zipper. Only as I was cutting open my basting stitches did I realize it was supposed to be an exposed (zipper teeth only) zipper. Ah well. I did a good job on my zipper top stitching! :)

The facing extends about 1/2" below the horizontal line I stitched. I didn't want it loose and able to flop around. 

I slip-stitched the facings down to ensure it was nice and neat. I wanted so badly to just topstitch it but wasn't confident at all that I could get it clean so I sucked it up!

Lastly, I've never inserted eyelets so I went with tiny buttonholes for the cording to come through.

I had planned on making the entire thing grey, then decided I would make the pockets and collar black and then felt I should do either the sleeves or the bottom band in black. 

I ended up deciding on black sleeves because I really scored on this grey ponte! It's such nice quality!!! And I decided that I would make this (1 yard) skirt with it so I wanted to preserve as much as possible.

Now, I was searching and searching for the rest of my black ponte. I'd cut the pockets and collar from a remnant. And I "found it" and cut the sleeves. Yeahhhhh that ponte was different. Not as thick, obviously more poly than the other, and with a very slight sheen.  I was worried it would change my opinion of the finished garment but so far, not so much.

I'm fairly certain the collar depends on the fabric and the black is drapier than the grey on mine so it looks best fully zipped and then folded over. I forgot to shorten the cords but will do that.

The *only* thing I don't like is how wide the cord ends up sitting. If I made it again (which I may, because I love it), I would narrow the very top of the center part to tighten that collar up some.

I didn't sew at all on Friday or Saturday and just HAD to get in there today, but didn't want to work on anything too complicated.

Enter Burda 6717, scooped up at the last Burda sale. My Hancock gets the new Burda's in and always have JUST 1 of each. It's crazy. So a couple things on my list didn't make it, but I browsed the book and decided I needed this pattern.

This is a Burda young pattern that comes in size 16-26. I cut a size 18 (typical for me). As I mentioned before I never need hem allowance on Burda and I cut off the entire 1 1/4" hem allowance and hemmed it 1 1/4". 

Important to note, the front and back is the same. If for some reason I decided to make this again, I'd have to widen the back only as it's a bit snug. 

It's 5 pattern pieces, numbered 1-5, top to bottom. Super easy. Zip, zip, zip on the serger, hem, elastic, done!

I really like the waistband finish! They have you sew elastic and turn inside. Now, they tell you to hand stitch, I have no time for that. Because my elastic is very wide (2 or 2 1/2" I don't remember...it's left over from my Minoru), I just pressed it and it stays in place just fine. And SUPER comfortable!!! The elastic is inserted 1:1 so no complications there.

Ab.So.Lutely ADORE this outfit!

And of course, both of these items work extremely well with the rest of my wardrobe.

Lastly, my February post is up on the Fabric Mart Blog!! Check out how I used this fantastic Maggy London border print cotton jacquard!!

PR Wardrobe Contest & Fabric Mart Blog

I can't NOT participate in the PR Wardrobe contests - it's my favorite!!! :) 

So even though I'm going to have a busy couple of months (the contest runs Feb 1 - Mar 31), I just have to do it. Now, I had already planned to sew a new casual summer wardrobe this year. I have never quite gotten around to it as envisioned...or I end up sewing stuff that can also be worn to work.

I have a lot of work clothes (a lot). So while I'm not saying I won't sew anything for work for spring/summer - I really needed some weekend wear. 

I really want (need) to sew from stash so I'd initially got out fabrics that would work together and chose the patterns after that. And ended up with a plan that I loved. For work! The only thing in my original plan that wasn't also appropriate for work was a pair of shorts and a romper/jumpsuit.

So I revamped the plan to focus on what I want for summer and then had a big ole fabric picking fest last night. (Too tired to sew...son has been sick and I think he's shared with mama). 

There's a good mix here; 4 patterns that I've made before (jumpsuit, dress, sleeveless top, shirt), 2 Burda patterns, and a couple that's been on my radar for awhile (like the McCall's culotte shorts and the Butterick skirt).

**I switched out a Burda blouse for the Simplicity 2255 shirt in chambray

Okay, yes, there's a blazer :) BUT that is really needed and a white blazer makes an excellent topper for work and play (that's my story and I'm sticking to it!).

Simplicity 1070 won't be as cropped as the pattern/image suggests. I will lengthen as needed. And from the reviews out there, McCall's 6965 will need at least 2" added in length.

I'm cutting it very close on McCall's 6884 and the striped/floral fabric. If I have to, I will make the shorter dress (I don't want to though!!!)

The only thing I'll need to shop for is stretch lining for the white jacket (I'm using a cotton lycra twill that has more stretch than I remember) and buttons for it. All other notions will come from stash.

Here are the fabrics (plus solid black for the cropped top and contrast band on the skirt)

Stripe/floral ITY, Navy/white diamond print ITY, Floral print Rayon Challis

Cobalt blue poly crepe  blue chambray, White stretch cotton twill, Pink ITY

Red with white cross threads chambray, Black/white ponte, Bone cotton twill

I'm excited!

Head over to the Fabric Mart blog to see my project this month!!! :) 

I chose Simplicity 8014 (that new shirtdress!) in this bright, whimsical cotton poplin.

(and this is my 400th post! WOW!)