Sew Crafty Chemist: Burda 3/2014 #101 WIP .and Round 2 of MMM'15

Thursday, May 21, 2015

Burda 3/2014 #101 WIP .and Round 2 of MMM'15

ETA: DanvilleGirl is hosting a pattern giveaway on her blog, check it out!

I've found another cute option for a suit. I knew I wanted a more 'feminine' style jacket but wanted it to have a collar. I decided on this unlined jacket from the March 2014 issue and while I'm afraid of that pleated skirt on my non-flat-tummy body, I really like skirt #104 from the same issue.

Or I can use my TNT B5760

~~I'm not sure which way I should go!!!~~ I'm going to make the suit with the straight skirt. I really like that flouncy skirt and will make it soon, just not for the interview suit.

I found SEVERAL finished photos of the jacket on the Russian Burda site and decided I needed it NOW. And then....THEN...

I made a muslin.

Oh yes. Yes I did! :)

I had this (weird) cotton in my stash from a FabricMart bundle and it was perfect for this. A little more stiff than my fashion fabric but otherwise about the same weight. I cut a straight size 42 and the only change I made off the bat was adding 5/8" to the sleeve width

Too much fabric in a few places...

I removed width from the princess seam from the waist up, slightly narrowing the shoulders along with it. I made a 3/4" swayback adjustment and took an armhole dart. I saw these lines in FFRP and it suggests adding a little to the back of the sleeve. I won't re-muslin; but will add a little bit to try to eliminate those wrinkles.

Ahhhh. YES! :)

Sure, I thought about it after that I made the changes on the side without the sleeve. So I have the seam allowance folded over. There's still a little bit of excess but 1)the lapels are large and will cover that area and 2) my RPL has a bit more drape and should lie more smoothly over the front than the stiff cotton.

I started sewing the jacket today and should be able to finish it tomorrow and get the skirt muslined. I have two interviews next week so it needs to be ready to go! :)

MMM Days 10-21