Saturday, May 9, 2015

McCall's 7094 (And the Start of MMM'15)

When this pattern came out, I bought it, got home and cut the pattern pieces out. But the fabric I wanted to use wasn't going to work for the view with sleeves! So I used it for M7093 instead :)

I searched and searched and searched my pattern and magazine collection for a pattern "with a yoke and gathers and a band that I could contrast". This is the one flaw with having my entire collection on the Pattern Review site; all of the views of the pattern aren't on the photo. On the line drawing, sure, but I didn't even THINK about this pattern until someone posted a review a few days ago (Aleah at No Time to Sew). YAY!

I wanted to use this crazy vibrant challis I bought at FabricMart last year sometime with black as a contrast. I cut the pattern in a medium (I almost always take a medium for my 39.5" bust). The finished bust was 48" which sounds really excessive but I knew that the small (44.5" finished bust) would not leave enough room for my full bust. There are gathers in the back and that "excess" is more in back than in front. I also knew that the size small shoulders would be too small.

I removed 1" from the back pattern piece; for a total of 2" removed. This took me down to a 46" bust but gave me the much needed space for my full bust.

Just a tad bit of riding up in front still!

It really sits nicely over the butt. I think it was getting caught on my leggings...

The instructions, unfortunately, don't give the 'burrito method' for the yoke; I don't know why the Big4 won't update that already. It's SO easy and takes no extra time!!!!

I used solid black for the interior yoke as I didn't want the spots to show through.


 I was going to use french seams but this fabric has some body to it and probably would've added bulk so I just serged my side seams after sewing. I made bias tape from the black challis for the armholes as you can see...

That challis was a NIGHTMARE on the band. I had to keep the pattern piece with it while interfacing and sewing the collar/facing because it kept getting distorted. As a result it is not super-neat. But it's black and doesn't look bad on...just up close with over exposure.

I also feel like the explanation of how to handle the front/neck bands wasn't perfectly clear. Lots of pinning, double checking, stitching, double checking...

OMG same with the placket/front band. I love that detail but can't seem to execute it well. I spent a LONG time on this unpicking and resewing and unpicking and ended up having to remove my pleat basting and just adjust that front pleat to fit because I was going mad.

Speaking of the front pleat, I don't love just kind of billows out. I stitched it down the first inch and a quarter or so and that seems to help. Another good pressing may work wonders too. :)

1) A not so neat junction
2) PLEATS!! :)
3) I tried like 8 times to get the right to fully overlap the left and gave up. 
4) reduced gathers

After all the drama, it was time for the easy, peasy part, side seams! LOL!

The yellow chalk line is the 5/8" seam.
The first line of stitching was my basting
The second line is where I ended up sewing my seams, using my french curve to blend

Because it was mostly trial and error, I lined the sides up as best I could and used tracing paper to transfer the new stitching line

Can you see the faint blue marks??

I am absolutely IN LOVE with this top!!! And have plans to make another - soon! As soon as this contest is wrapped up! :)

Definitely recommend this pattern, even with the fussy bands!


If Me Made May makes you stabby (stabby: The feeling that you could grab any nearby sharp implement and stab the nearest thing which may or may not include yourself...) you can click away now!!! LOL!

Day 1: S1980 top and Sandra jeans
Day 2: S1676 dress (with a jean jacket)
Day 3: Burda 6911 with RTW skirt (LOVE this outfit!)
Day 4: In-House Kimono tee with RTW jeans
Day 5: NL6108 top, B5760 skirt and RTW cardigan

Day 6: Burda 7866 top and KS3115 pants
Day 7: M5890 dress
Day 8: Head-to-toe!! B5926 jacket, M6927 top, V9032 pants
Day 9: S2054 tunic


  1. Love your me made outfits.. so cute.. Great job.

  2. I'm totally using the word stab by now! LOL! Question - did you interface the placket? You didn't mention it in your review, so I was wondering. Finally, if you like the burrito method better why don't you just substitute the technique?!

    1. Oh I most certainly do use the burrito method. Lol! I'm saying why doesn't the Big4 update their instructions to include it!

      It's interfaced on the "public" side and the facing is uninterfaced. On the next one I'm using chambray for the contrast so it'll be well behaved.

  3. The top is lovely and with such a busy pattern no-one will notice the challis band misbehaving. I always find it flops and wrinkles after ironing in any case, so it really doesn't matter.

    I admire people who have the energy to do MMM - but stab, no :).

  4. I don't have the energy to do MMM, or the clothes! Some day, maybe.

    I like your top - I can see why you want more of them.

  5. This is lovely top. I love the contrast! I am envious of the hours you spend sewing! You are one lucky lady with a lovely wardrobe x

  6. Great sewing skills! Beautiful work on your part and a closet or two full of beautiful well fitted clothes that YOU made! A very proud accomplishment!!!

  7. The word, Stabby, has just entered my vocab. I always appreciate your honest and direct reviews. thanks for that.

    The top is cute. Was the black band interfaced? Perhaps a heavier interfacing next time, if so? It looks great on you and the front length is such an easy fix for next time.

  8. "Stabby"--love it! The top turned out great! You have a great me-made wardrobe, especially like that McCall's dress on day 7 and tunic on day 9. Well, now I'm off to search for those patterns...

  9. Alright, you sold me! I need this pattern . Your MMMis looking good!

  10. Such a cute top! I love that fabric and for once I hate that I was able to miss a Fabric Mart sale. I 've reached maximum fabric storage capacity though and had to stop purchasing. :-(.

    Anyhow I love seeing and/or reading about MMMs. I even look at them on Instagram, LOL.

  11. You've been on a roll my find and I love everything you have been making. Great Job.

  12. you are just rocking the MMM!!! Of course I had to go stalk your older makes, lol. fantastic wardrobe!

  13. Really love the new top! Looks great on you, and I bet it'll be nice and breezy for Summer (if it ever arrives...). Might need to add it to my stash...

  14. I had the same problem with that front placket, especially with a light, floaty fabric! But like you, I still love mine!


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