Burda Challenge 9/2016 #113

Sometimes a plan just comes together!

So far, I have sewn from every Burda issue this year (even October!). The moment this preview was released I was thinking "must make that dress. must." And then the tech drawings came out and it was a surety. And THEN, when I broke my fabric fast, I saw this printed ITY and knew that this would be one awesome dress.

I went with my normal Burda sizing of 40 neckline/shoulders and 42 for the rest. Especially with the skirt being gathered (vs something fitted). I made no other adjustments for fit. Next time (I can see this in black!!), I will take out about 3/8" from shoulder to bust and about 5/8" from the back length.

Speaking of...I'm starting to question if I actually have a swayback or if I just have a short torso. I mean, I know my torso is short, but is that the reason I have issues vs. swayback?? When patterns have a shaped center-back seam, I don't have puddling. And I often find after the fact, that I need to ALSO shorten a bit at the side seam. Same for pants...I need to shorten front crotch length quite a bit, but I also take out a bit at the side seam of front and back to overall shorten the length from waist to crotch. Ahhh...ruminations.

ANYWAY! Aside from wishing I'd taken out a bit of length in the upper bodice (or as a cheat taken deeper shoulder seams), I cut out my skirt rectangles and somehow managed to rotate the front skirt. When I assembled the back and went to put it on my dress form I stepped back and OOPS! LOL! The back was much shorter than the front. That also explains why I knew I'd cut the skirt to match the front bodice motif (mostly) and then it didn't. I just shrugged it off. :) So I have a few less gathers in front than intended. :)

We are heading into fall/winter so my photos will likely get progressively worse :( I don't have a good open area (that's what happens when you cut your living space in half!) and the sun goes down so early during the week. So you'll get to know my kitchen and yellow table well! :)

I ADORE this print and the overall color scheme!!!

The front IS riding up a little. Full bust problems. I'll fix that...

My super cheesy grin says it all! It's Love!

On the black version (whenever I get the fabric for it), I'll add a couple inches to the length. Though, by the time it's cool enough to wear this with the turtleneck and all, I'll likely wear tights with it anyway.

I finished the hems by double turning and stitching with a twin needle. I slip-stitched the collar facing down by hand. The instructions have you ditch stitch but that seems dicey with the type of fabric you'd likely use for this. No way was I going to try that with ITY! I did however attach the facing to the lining by machine. That was no problem. I always do this as a 2nd pass, so I can use the zipper stitching as a guide.

Oh and I did insert a full length zipper but it is unnecessary. A 9" would be fine. I'd also consider using a tricot fusible in the collar. The back stands up due to the zipper but the front collapses a bit.

I started my daughter's dress last night! I got the front and back bodice seams sewn and the front skirt.

 Today I hope to get the back skirt assembled and the zipper in. Then sleeves (they are raglan), skirt to bodice, side seams, neck binding, hem, done! By Friday night! :)

 Lastly, I was on the hunt for fun skirts (still) and dug up some older Burda mags that were gifted to me. ALL of these awesome patterns are from the 9/2007 issue. Burda always gets better with time it seems!  I think the pleated skirt has a place in my fall/winter wardrobe! I have a winter white pinwale corduroy that I think will be perfect.

September Wrap-up and October Plans

It cannot be October?!?! 3 more months til we can say good-bye to 2016! Whew!!

I had a pretty hectic month. Getting through some personal stuff at the beginning plus loads of fun stuff like becoming the mom of a young adult! My daughter turned 18 which is completely bananas. IDK where nearly 2 decades went! And I had some great weekends with friends...and apparently I sewed a.ton.

I'm never quite sure how it happens. And especially this month as I had several days (including 2 whole weekends!) where I never graced the sewing room. But whatevs. My fall list is long, I've culled a ton of stuff from my closet, and I feel like I'm finally defining my style. Still need to work on weekend/casual wear, but I'm slipping some of that in as I go.

This month I sewed:

• New Look 6189 pants in teal crepe - these ended up as a wadder. Shame because the pattern fits me well. But the crepe and the color just didn't work as I envisioned. Too bad too. That crepe would have made an amazing skirt or dress. Live and learn.
• McCall's 7358 top in printed poly charmeuse - despite poly charmeuse being the spawn of satan, the sewing didn't go so bad. This pattern however? Meh. I will have to review it to have it on record. 
• Jalie pleated cardigan in taupe wool jersey - Great wardrobe staple!
• Swoon cardigan in rayon poly lycra knit - Can't wait to make another version (or 2!)
• Kwik Sew 3558 jacket in mini checked suiting (poly/cotton blend?) - to be blogged
• Butterick 5678 shirt in blue cotton shirting - to be blogged
• Simplicity 2369 top in navy rayon jersey - to be blogged
• In-House Ellen pants in mini checked suiting to match KS3558 - to be blogged
• Burda 1/2016 sweatshirt in rayon blend ponte for my daughter - I updated my last post with a photo!
• Burda 9/2016 dress in print ITY - to be blogged (should be able to get photos this weekend!)
• Burda 10/2016 sweatshirt in black and white sweater knit - this didn't go quite as planned. Review to come.

Favorite: Until you see it...you'll have to take my word...Burda 9/2016 is awesome and fantastic and makes me want to frolic. I want to put it on everyday and dance around. I may review that before the other gazillion unblogged things.

Okay, here's a photo I posted on Instagram (speaking of...) -- It makes my heart sing!

FAIL: The M7358 top is at least CUTE on. So even though I side-eye it daily, I won't call it the fail of the month. I'll have to give it to the Burda raglan sweatshirt. I had something in mind but don't think it worked out as planned. I hacked the pattern (kinda sorta not really) and my proportions are off. Plus the fabric is super stiff and I should have 'jumped ship' when I realized that and used something with a bit more drape for what I was going for.

Accomplishments: I have been 1) wanting to sew the KS jacket since forever. According to PR, I bought that pattern around April 2014. and 2) wanting a casual suit since forever. And now I have it! I love the two together even if the shirt and top I made to go with don't work (TOO blue). Reviews to come - promise!  

October Plans

My daughter has her first concert performance next week and needs concert attire. I tried to enforce my will but no dice. ;-) She described what she wanted and even though I know she doesn't see it, I'm going to use her prom dress pattern to make the gown. With a full back (vs. a 'v'), no lace or illusion or tulle or slitted skirt...and with elbow length sleeves...it's perfect! The bodice will be in black stretch velvet and the skirt I'm not 100% sure yet. I am thinking I could use the leftover suiting fabric I made the New Look 6481 jacket with but I don't want it too stiff. But it should have some body and be relatively wrinkle free.

I'm entering the outerwear contest on Pattern Review. I am making the Clare coat by Closet Case Files. I actually snatched up this pattern as soon as it was released, spurred on by Michelle's review (of Happily Caffeinated). I am using black wool with a gold-tone brass zipper. I don't need a Minnesota winter coat, just one warm enough for the in-between weather. Which to me is around 30 degrees F to zero. Once it drops below zero, out comes the parka.

I actually don't have a nice black coat! I have a down coat for "in between weather" - it's lightweight, shorter length and has no hood. So not for COLD weather, and I have a down coat that is super warm. I have my fuchsia coat that I sewed and a charcoal RTW coat, also for in between weather...but no black. So I'm excited!

High on the wishlist for the month is view B of Vogue 9210 in an olive/moss colored ponte with gold zippered pockets And with the same fabric, the top in Vogue 1465 (a DK or DKNY pattern so it's no longer on their site)

And, McCall's 7430. I was so immediately drawn to this one when it was released. I have a gray ponte for it and after Erica posted a version for her daughter, it jumped right back to the top of the pile.

There are no finished measurements on the site, hopefully they're on the pattern tissue. But with all those seam lines, getting a good fit should be easier.

I really wanted to make this sleeveless at first but think I'll add sleeves. A simple, solid colored knit dress will come in handy and can be worn alone or layered. I don't want full-length sleeves though so either D with B's sleeves or B with A/D's collar. However you want to look at it! :)

If I could sneak in one last project, it would be Butterick 6388

I may be being a bit over-ambitious here. But that's okay :) I'll do what I can do. Her dress needs to be done by 10/7 so that's first. I'm giving myself 2 weeks for the Clare which I think is doable. I plan to start it on 10/10. That way, any mishaps I'll have time to work through and if I get done on time or early, I can move on to one of my other projects. I'm actually almost certain I can get DDs dress and the Vogue top and leggings done by the 10th but we'll see!

*****

Lastly, I think I'm over social media. Well the big ones. I've deactivated my Facebook and don't miss it. Instagram has frustrated me with their algorithm based feed...It's an annoying concept and really it's just another way to market/advertise. But on IG it really makes NO SENSE. They reorder photos and then you get stuff out of context. So you're commenting on something but don't realize another photo or two have been posted since and your comment is now irrelevant.

They claim not to hide anything, just re-order it. But I've gone on, seen just a handful of new posts (I follow about 400 accounts), close out, go back hours later and still see pretty much the same posts. And then I navigate directly to someone's account and see several posts that I did not see in my timeline. It's aggravating.

I have a Twitter account but don't use it. I feel all I ever see are celebrity and "celebrity" posts, even though I don't follow them. And Snapchat is pretty much exclusive to family.

So I'm reading more and sewing more (har, har) and starting to get out a little more and attend events/functions/etc. And I'm going to the gym every other day! (I did not go when I was sick).

I think '4th quarter' makes me restless. I'm always excited to flip the calendar and move on to a new year :)

Finished: New Look 6123

I previously sewed this in October 2014 for week 2 of the Fabric Mart challenge. I made a muslin and everything! I made it a second time later that month in ponte. When I went to my cousin's wedding last month, I wore the puple version and fell in love with the dress all over again.

I decided my polka-dot chambray would become another NL6123 vs S8014 (even though I love that pattern).

Both of my previous versions used the pleated skirt and I wanted to make the straight skirt this time. I pulled out the pattern and I had traced ALL of the pattern pieces. So I felt compelled to trace the other pieces this time and I'm glad I did. I didn't realize this pattern is now OOP. Boooo!

V.1 was lined and v.2 was a knit so I hadn't used the facings. I will say I find them just a bit shallow. I also want to raise the neckline a little - like 1/2". I am okay with a little cleavage during daytime, it's my tattoo that I prefer to cover up. Sidenote: I am totally going to look into laser removal. I don't hate it, I just hate the location now! But there's some tricky business to removing tattoos from brown skin so you have to find someone experienced.

Anyway. I used the facing as-is after having made changes to the bodice. So I have this happening on the inside...Oops.

Note to self: Add an inch to the facing! :-p

I assumed (oops) that the bodice was a 14 but it was a 16 and I traced the size 14 facings. Doh! I stitched them down which thankfully isn't visible because of the crossover.

Also, trying to preserve whatever amount of this fabric I could, I ended up cutting my skirt fronts too close to an edge that had a scissor snip. I interfaced it and took the seam a tiny bit deeper. Fingers crossed it stays put!

I made no other changes to the pattern from the original make.

• Shortened bust dart (moved the point 'back')
• Narrow shoulder adjustment
• Gaping armhole adjustment
• Removed width from center back tapering to nothing at waist
• Swayback adjustment
• Full butt adjustment

I could stand to add a tiny bit to the cap sleeve - maybe 1/2". I used an invisible zipper and topstitched the hem. I also tacked the facings down at the shoulder seams.

Matching at the top of the zipper

Matching the waist seam and darts

Really digging the vent and my red serger thread!!!! <3

The chambray cut, sewed and pressed as beautifully as cotton chambray does! Such a breeze to sew!

We're officially into fall here in Minneapolis and dusk arrives earlier. Plus the past 2 weekends have been crammed. I have had no time to photograph the gazillion finished garments I have.

I haven't been feeling well and am working from home today and figured I would FINALLY get this dress blogged (it's been finished since end of August/very early September). So I look haggard but just look past that. Okay? LOL!

These boots were the only shoes upstairs besides flip-flops...

I've really working out the fit for my back/butt on the CB seam!

You'll see (as do I now!) that my side seam is curved. I need more butt room (horizontally). Also, I've worn this twice already so the chambray has bagged out a bit in the seat. I'm sure it'll be fine when it's washed/dried.

***********************
DDs sweatshirt turned out SO CUTE! Again, we were jam packed when she was here so I didn't get photos of it on her...or even the completely finished garment. Her Thursday's are a bit more open so hopefully she can get a friend to snap a few for me.

I was going to add decorative side seam zippers but the style lines and the super-duper drapey fabric made it a no go. The sweatshirt sort of collapses on itself and the zippers made it stiff.

I used Burda 1/2016 oversized hoodie with hi-low hem. I used a size 36, view A (the other views are longer and have pleating or gathering in the back). I ended up adding a band to the hem instead of hemming it.

I made the gathers in front and attached the hood via serger. And turned it out and saw this:

Oh. Well then...

I unpicked from the bad gathering on the right as viewed to the other side and reattached via sewing machine (yeah, I learn sometimes...) and was  able to get the hood in correctly (fronts touching).

This is before the bands were sewn

I tried it on because it is pretty oversized and it looked weird (probably because it's still way small for me). Saturday morning she came to show me the sweatshirt on her body and I swear it was THE cutest thing. I said with leggings, she said "with huge pants!". Ahhhh to be 18 again.

Wait...well, no. No thank you! Maybe 26...lol!!!

So many things to do yet. I have my September Burda in under the wire (needs hems), DD needs a black gown for concert performances. Because I am smart sometimes, I am making the non-fancy version of her prom dress (e.g., no lace, no illusion, no tulle, etc). And I am making the bodice with a stretch velvet. New-to-me fabric but I think I'll be okay. Oh and did I mention she needs this for her concert on October 8th? And I'm joining the PR outerwear contest and sewing the Clare coat from Closet Case Files. Plus the other stuff I want to sew.

WHEW!

"Unselfish Sewing" Plans

When I first started I totally wanted to title my blog "The Selfish Seamstress" but alas, that was taken by someone who was, apparently, an outstanding sewer! I still use that moniker with friends and family though because I. Do. Not. Want. To. Sew. For. Others! :-p

But, I can be swayed. My very bestest friend recently had a birthday and when she swooned over my Swoon cardigan (har, har), I decided I was going to make one for her!

Carolyn has gotten with Michelle of Style Maker Fabrics to offer a discount code this month and I moseyed on over there and clicked on a gorgeous eggplant/plum variegated jersey in the page banner and saw some seriously yummy fall colored jerseys. My friend chose this jade:

And I chose this pumpkin:

WHAAAAAAAT??!? :-D

This after using Herculean strength to avoid buying from Fabric Mart with all their yummy wool jerseys on sale on and off for the past week or so.

Sigh.

BUT! I would have never stopped at just a cut or 2 with FM, so there's that!

Also, Monday night I started cutting out my In-House Ellen pants and as I'm laying them all out, my daughter called. We talked for awhile --she's coming home this weekend--  and then she asked me to make her something "cool". Well naturally I turned to my Burda magazines!

I decided on this sweatshirt from the January 2016 issue

I'm making it in a slate blue colored ponte that's been in the stash awhile. I have 3 yards of it and the pattern calls for 2 1/8 for the size 36.  I'm thinking I may whip up a simple tube skirt to match. She really likes those to layer over tights/leggings. 

I'm considering adding exposed zippers at the side seam - purely ornamental. 

We'll see how it goes!

I haven't blogged a finish project in for.ever. But they're all lined up - some of them worn. I'm going to knock out this sweatshirt and then finish my pants. The front is ready (need to do fly front topstitching) and back darts are sewn. I'll show the 4-piece collection together as only 2 items need full reviews (Kwik Sew 3558 and In House Ellen). The other 2 have been made multiple times (Butterick 5678 and Simplicity 2369).

Fall Sewing Update

Last we "spoke" I was whining about my lost mojo. Well, you all have been with me long enough, you know I found it!

That day I cleaned up the sewing room and started fondling fabrics - guaranteed ways to jumpstart missing mojo btw - and refocused on my fall plans. Of course I want to sew all the things, but I've decided to break them out into mini wardrobes. I am completely and utterly bored with my closet. It is time to start switching over. I've done a mini cull of things that have to go (for various reasons) and have some holes to fill.

• I do not need ANYMORE sleeveless tops/shells.
• I need more transitional tops (able to be worn on their own now but can be layered in winter).
• I am currently obsessed with not-full-length sleeves 

"The Blues"

Blue is my favorite color and "neutral". I have to stop myself from buying more blue fabric!

Simplicity 2369 (which I've made as a top and dress before and LOVE) in navy jersey.

This is cut out, pinned together and ready to serge. I was waiting on blue serger thread which - Wawak rocks! 

Butterick 5678 in a soft but completely opaque and sturdy cotton shirting from SR Harris.

This is mostly done. I have loads of topstitching to do (cuffs, collar stand, button bands) and then I can sew the side seams, set the sleeves and finish

I love Wonder Tape for collar stands!!

I accidentally sewed my laps backwards. Again. They're wrong on EVERY ONE of these that I've made. I always check first and still manage to sew them backwards.

Lastly, Kwik Sew 3558 jacket and matching pants from a blue/white mini check suiting.

KS3558 is pinned and ready to have the hems sewn - I'll be doing it by hand. Here it was when I messaged L (You Sew Girl) to ask what the heck was up with Kwik Sew and the ridiculous shoulder length. I narrowed them 1/2" on the paper and still had to go back and trim off 3/8". WOW! 

For the pants, I planned on V9155 which I've made before but ended up making a muslin of the In House Ellen pant. Aside from needing to add like an inch and a half to the back rise(!) and removing a little length through the back leg, they fit great. 

"Needed Neutrals" 

I don't have much tan/beige/brown in my wardrobe despite being colors that I like, and especially in fall.

Simplicity 1063 top in this animal print jersey. 

I was browsing my top patterns and I actually liked this one on me but hated the facings and never finished it. I have a plan this time around.

New Look 6481 jacket in a suuuuper drapey ivory suiting.

I knew I would make another jacket from this pattern and a trip to SR Harris last month yielded perfect fabric for it.

Vogue 9032 pants in taupe-y suiting. 

This fabric is an RPL that I've been hanging on it. I really like the feel of it and figured I'd better go TNT for it.

Butterick 5760 skirt in camel flecked wool suiting

This fabric feels amazing. I can't remember where I got it (maybe Sawyer Brook?). It was expensive so I bought 1 yard for my TNT skirt. It will be fully lined.

"Funky Fun" 

Burda 9/2016 #113 in this printed ITY

I think the pattern has a retro flair and this fabric does too! I can't wait to sew this though I have a tiny bit more time before I can wear a turtleneck dress, even in the tundra.

Okay so, I just want to sew this plum crepe. I have no pattern in mind. LOL!

Vogue 1465 turtleneck top in moss green ponte

I've wanted to sew this one for awhile now. I may make a matching pair of slim pants with the remaining yardage. I love that color!!!

 "But Wait! There's More!" 

Swoon Scarf Neck Cardigan in black burnout jersey

Because it's burnout! So fun!! This is a quick project so I'm sure it'll sneak in somewhere sooner rather than later.

Ottobre 5/2016 sweater in textured double knit

I think the pattern is meant more for a jersey but no matter. I'm going to have a super cuddly sweater from it!

McCall's 7430 dress in grey ponte

Part of me wants to make the sleeveless version for ease of layering and part wants to make it sleeved. We shall see!!!

Burda 10/2016 raglan sweater in black/white double knit

I envision this as a layering piece over my button front shirts or long sleeved tees. I'll crop the sleeves (I told you!) to just below elbow length.

I am on a self-imposed spending hiatus --- I'm not even biting on 60% off wool knits at Fabric Mart...or Cashmerette's new pattern...I didn't even buy any Burda patterns at the JoAnn sale last weekend!!!! --- but the one RTW item I'm on the lookout for is a camel sweater. J. Crew has it's Tippi sweater for $79.50 plus 25% off but there are lots of complaints about the redesign. Turns out they narrowed the sleeves. I CANNOT afford narrower sleeves. I have large biceps compared to the rest of me. I may swing through TJ Maxx/Marshall's this month/next month to see what I can find.

Speaking of RTW...I always get my Burda magazine and Redbook on the same day.

THIS SKIRT!!!!! I love everything about it. I have a similar fabric, though it maybe has a bit of metallic thread running through it, and I hope to copy this this fall/winter.

Similarly, I loved these J.Crew pants and though I absolutely cannot bite at $135, I decided I'd watch them for a sale. Well, the largest size they come in is too small for me. Booooooo! 

Other Stuff:

• I still need to post my chambray New Look dress.
• I hope to finish my Butterick jacket before it gets too cold (it's ready for the lining to be bagged and I bought snaps for it - Wawak! Yay!)
• Had some "life" happen last weekend and completely forgot about OWOP so I didn't participate this year.
• SewPhotoHop is still going strong! I think I only missed a day.
• Carolyn's pattern giveaway closes tonight! Head over there if you haven't yet!
• The first challenge is up on the Fabric Mart blog. I want that sweater knit. Those ladies did some awesome stuff with it! Be sure to vote!
• Week 2 of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee is up - they have to make bias cut garments. OY!

Until Later!

Miscellany; In Which I Whine About All the Things

Because my middle name is miscellaneous... No, not really, I just have a lot of random thoughts, often.

New Look 6189. I made this pattern before, a few months after I started sewing. They were REALLY cute just too high in the rise and I knew I'd never wear them. I made them again in a suiting fabric and messed up and got one leg off grain. But the fit of the pattern worked!

I had them in my fall plans out of a crepe. When I ordered this fabric, I made sure it was opaque and that it was suitable for pants. I missed the texture. It's pebbled and I don't like it. I like the color but don't love it and with the texture it's just a big ole' NO for me. I'm not completely anti-polyester but with that, this color and that pebbled texture it reads too much like old-man pants.

Also, I forgot that the leg on this pant is MUCH, MUCH fuller than the envelope suggests.

Meh. I left these alone, and unfinished, and moved on to the wrap top of my dreams (haha!). I have to do a full review on this one because this pattern is stupid and dumb. Yes, very mature, I know. But it is. It did not help the cause that I used a (beautiful, printed) polyester charmeuse. I swear when I walked into the room the fabric would fray. Peek around the corner -- fray. Think about walking downstairs - fray. Good grief.

M7358

I'm going to finish it because it is pretty. So perhaps, after awhile, my anger at it will subside.

Also, I want to finish this jacket (B6141)!!! But first, the funnel-ish collar is just wrong. I think it's drafted incorrectly and I don't know how to fix it with the way the front is constructed. So I'm going to use one of the other collar views.

Then, I had a hell of a time setting this sleeve and when I went to take it off the dress form I noticed a few small puckers in front (which in the photo below I thought it was just because I hadn't pressed it). So I have to re-do part of the sleeve.

UGH.

But it's cute!!

My daughter is on week 3 of college and mentioned wanting a robe for going to and from the bathroom. She's a huge fan of dark green (hunter, pine, etc) and I found a great plaid cotton flannel at SR Harris to sew up M7297

They both washed and dried well and I was excited to get started. 

It wasn't until I went to cut out the solid parts (the bands) that I realized the green is FAR thicker/heavier than the plaid. And the bands are all sewn double. I'm not so sure this will work out and am tempted to call it quits and buy a robe!

Wah. Wah. WOE IS MEEEE.

So you know what this means? Mojo is kaput. Which is fine; I've been sewing like a crazy person despite being super busy with family stuff.  The next two weekends were already non-sewing time because of existing plans. Plus I have a new book to read. So I'll take some time off, clean my sewing room and I'm sure I'll be all excited to jump back into it :)

I still need to photograph my polka-dot New Look 6123 (which I've worn) and maybe I'll get pics of the NL6189 pants on. 

Other Stuffs...

Have you been following along over at Carolyn's with all her fun giveaway's for National Sewing Month? 

Do you know that Saturday begins OWOP and there are giveaways? 

I'll be using my trusty Butterick 5760 skirt to participate!

Also, I changed my blog theme again. I wanted more white space. I like it.

Drapey Cardigan Battle: Jalie 2919 vs Swoon Scarf Neck

I had the Jalie cardigan in my fall plans and was excited to sew it up in the wool jersey I've been hoarding for awhile. I snagged a 3.5 yard cut for $22 total last summer and knew it would be used for a cardigan. I made McCall's 6696 from wool jersey and I adore that cardigan. It is so lightweight while being nice and warm and it just feels good on.

I don't know how I found out about the Swoon cardigan but when I saw that Westmoon had sewn it up I was eager to give it a shot.

I printed it out, no problem there and then it gets a little funky. Honestly, Westmoon covered it all in her review here.

1. There aren't lines for trimming the pages. The pattern pieces are tiled, and it does need to be trimmed, but there aren't lines for trimming
2. The box to check scale is hidden well into the pattern vs being on the instruction page or early on
3. The pattern is laid out really weirdly and is a paper hog
4. The half sleeve is weird. Sleeves cut on the fold are weird
5. The instructions. omg. Just, no. I mean, it's fairly intuitive but the instructions are just a no. French seam a knit? No, no, no.

Once you get past the minor annoyances (which are minor only because it is a free pattern. If I had paid, I would not be a happy camper about those things), it is a REALLY sweet pattern!!! 

I used a poly/rayon jersey knit from Fabric Mart. I really love this 'pattern/print' and it matches well with my existing wardrobe. It went together quickly and fits beautifully!

I sewed a size large and made no other adjustments. The princess seam hits in the right place, the collar drapes nicely, and the symmetrical sleeve works because the shoulder is slightly dropped.
(silly symmetric sleeve...I serged the sleeve on backwards and had to unpick the serger stitches. Booo!)

Many mentioned the sleeves were long; I am glad I didn't shorten them. I sewed a 1 1/4" hem and they are perfect. Lastly, I did a double turned hem (using Steam a Seam light and then topstitched), but did not hem the drape front. It really doesn't need to be hemmed. 

On the Jalie, I traced a size Y with the length of Q. Many had remarked about the length and I didn't want it too long. 

1. This pattern also has a weird 'cut on the fold' half sleeve. I don't like that!
2. MARK THE LINES! Please mark them. I only marked the top and end point and ended up getting off on some of them. 

I'd seen the pattern done both ways: where the tucks are outside and where they are inside. I wanted them to show so I pressed a crease, wrong sides together, and stitched at 3/8" for all 4. The wool knit takes a press beautifully. 

These sleeves are really long. After sewing it up, I removed 1.5" and hemmed it at 1 1/4".  I also did a double turned hem on this one.

So which pattern "wins"?

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

I prefer the Swoon drape over the Jalie

I prefer the integrated collar/drape of the Swoon over the attached collar of the Jalie

I like the length of the Swoon more (but that's an easy fix on the Jalie)

I prefer the front hem of the Jalie

I need a little more butt room in the Swoon - I will do that via slash and spread

The Jalie shoulder feels too long and the armpit too low

The wool knit is amazing to wear but...

The Swoon wins for me! 

I prefer it hands down and my fun black burnout knit will also become a Swoon cardigan! It just feels better on, even though the Jalie is done in yummy wool knit. I predict that and the color will cause the Jalie to get more wear than I'd expect. I have LOTS of blue in my wardrobe but no jacket or cardigan in a neutral tan/brown. I used to have a M6844 in a similar color but the fabric pilled like crazy and it didn't hang around in the wardrobe very long.

The outtake:

He's always in my photos.

August Wrap-Up and...The 'Elephant' In the Room

This was a good month!! It started out very quiet and mojo-less. I knocked out my FM project the first weekend of the month knowing the next 2 weekends would be occupied. I was so excited to sew the border print sateen and then the almost finished skirt sat for 2 weeks. New look 6481 renewed my mojo and got me back on track! :-p

This month I sewed:

• New Look 6481 jacket in black suiting - 1.5 yards
• Butterick 5760 x 2 in olive sateen and border print floral sateen - 2 yards total
• New Look 6123 dress in polka-dot chambray - 2.25 yards
• McCall's 7382 dress in maroon jersey knit - 2.5 yards
• Burda 2/2013 #125 bomber jacket in printed ponte - 1.25 yards (Fabric Mart project)

M7382 - IDK about that one. It is currently hanging before hemming (one side has already grown about an inch). I think I dislike the CF seam. Perhaps in a print it would be okay but in a solid it just looks odd. Otherwise it's a flattering style. So this may be called a muslin and I may revisit this when I have a better fabric for it.

NL6123 is a favorite of mine. I really like the fit of that pattern. And it's POLKA-DOT!  I'm wearing it today and it makes me happy!! Review to come.

Favorite: The one dress is iffy but otherwise all are very solid additions to my wardrobe. IDK if I can choose a favorite. Both jackets, the NL dress, both skirts...I really like them all.

FAIL: I failed to stay on task but what else is new?! HA! 

Accomplishments: Hmmm, I did nothing noteworthy this month, but that's okay. I have a vision in my head for my fall wardrobe which means not everything will be 'the greatest item since sliced bread' but so far, it's all coming together.

I'd cut out M7382 Saturday night and made some adjustments and then zipped it up through the serger the other day (that part is fast; not looking forward to hemming but think it'll be better hemmed vs. left raw). Once I realized it needs to hang a good while, I was ready to move on to something else. I laid out the fabric I scooped up at SR Harris for v.2 of NL6481 and at that moment (it was weird, seriously), I looked over and saw a UFO peeking out from a bin and of course, I decided it must be finished right.now.

Sigh. LOL

I had picked up this cotton/lurex faille back in December 2013, of course, via a FM sale. I wanted to make a blazer but the fabric is a bit rigid and I was still very new to sewing, so I wasn't sure it would work. Into the stash box it went.

About a year ago, I decided to make a fall jacket and pulled it out. I got the pieces all cut out (had just enough fabric!), sewed up the lining first, went on to assemble the shell and there it stalled.

Butterick 6141

Photobombed by boys and cats.

It fits better now too!

Fronts and backs are sewn, sewn together at the shoulder, but that's it. I realized this morning that one of my pockets was sewn on wrong (I sewed it pocket right side to fabric wrong side). I wonder if this made me toss it in a box?? Looking at my posts around that time, I went on to sew a couple of tees for myself and t-shirt dresses for my daughter, all from M6964. That was probably the reason -- "shiny".

I need to sew the side seams, the front bands, set sleeves in both jacket and lining, sew the collar (which is a simple style - I'm sewing view C) and bag the lining.

September plans is to keep working the fall plan. I hope to get a couple things done over the long Labor Day weekend but I again have 2 non-sewing weekends this month.

I WANT to sew the Jalie cardigan, Ottobre sweater and Burda dress. But those are definitely for cooler weather (even though it was 57 degrees when I left home today).

I SHOULD sew the Kwik Sew jacket and Vogue pants (suit). I'm using this navy/white mini-check suiting. I'm kind of excited about these two as well!!

So what's up with that 'elephant'...

I was talking with a friend after she laughed at my fall sewing plans. Hey, I told her I don't really believe I'll get ALL of those things sewn... :-p She mentioned that I must have a huge wardrobe.

I DO have a lot of clothes. I always have. I will probably never subscribe to the minimalist wardrobe concept. Even before I learned to sew I had a lot of clothes. I LOVE CLOTHES! Not so much fashion but clothes. I like putting looks together, I like having fun with my wardrobe. This is especially true since I'm no longer in a lab environment and without clothing restrictions. 

I live in the tundra - which gets upgraded to "The Frozen Tundra" in winter (or is that downgraded??). So I essentially have 2 wardrobes. I separate fall/winter from spring/summer. Cold weather will begin around October/November and will persist through April and sometimes all the way until the end of May. So you get really sick of dark colors, heavy fabrics, etc. and I take great joy in shuttling those into storage bins around the so-called start of spring! :) 

And because fall is my favorite season, around this time I am just itching to wear jackets and boots and layers. Even though I don't look forward to the cold that is coming. So I've already put away a few things but it'll be a few more weeks before I do a full swap. 

It also helps that I've always had a ton of storage space. 

Now, with respect to sewing, I've been sewing since January 2013. So not a long time. I've progressed a lot but as far as my wardrobe goes...Most of the stuff I made in the beginning is no longer around. 

I remember finishing a dress and being so proud and I wore it out to date night. Sometime last year I pulled that dress out to wear and had a good laugh at it! LOL! The hem was wonky as was the neck binding. The gathers were uneven and it had shine spots from pressing. :) So best believe, the wardrobe has been culled. Also, I don't discriminate. If it doesn't work...it doesn't work. And that goes for RTW and handmade items. 

• 2013: I have 2 items from 2013 still. And one is a pair of yoga pants, the other is a raglan sweatshirt.
• 2014: I have 22 items from 2014. Progress! 1 is pajama shorts and then there are 4 outerwear items and 2 special occasion dresses.
• 2015: I have a lot of stuff from 2015 still in my wardrobe. 

I sewed A TON in 2015, but it was a very stressful year for me and sewing was my salve. While I still sew a lot by most standards (it's the fast sewing!), I sew WAY less than I used to. I don't feel the need to hole up in the cave all the time. Feels good too :)

Fast Sewer + Desire for a large wardrobe + Lots of storage space + "new" job (It's been 14 months already!) + A definite style that is starting to emerge + Fabric inspiration + Pattern inspiration =  Lots of pieces being added, still. And that's okay by me.