Tuesday, May 17, 2016

Burda Challenge - 04/2016 #119

Thank you! Thank you! THANK YOU! for the wonderfully supportive comments on my girl's prom dress!  It was quite an experience that was totally worth it when I zipped that zipper up and spun her around! 

Though I've had longer absences from the blog than this, this one was brutal and I had to unplug from everything. Too much life happening but I am definitely in a better place now. Deep breath out...


After completing the dress, my next project was supposed to be "quick". But you know me...Because I didn't get a chance to make the dress for the jazz concert, I moved right along to another item that caught my eye. This dress has fun seaming, is fitted, and looked pretty cool in a stripe.

After seeing it reviewed on PR, I knew I had to go for it! 

FYI: To search for Burda on PR you want to enter the date as 04-2016 for example. If you want to look for a specific pattern, like this one, it would be 04-2016-119.

But the striped version!

So for this one, I used a striped ponte that has been in the stash for a couple of summers. Once I received it, I wasn't completely sold on the color. It is absolutely perfect for a casual summer version of this pattern! (stashing works)

Burda is awesome. Mostly because their drafting is usually precise and their sizing is uniform. And they draft for a C cup! I used size 40 at the neckline, shoulders and armhole, grading out to a 42 for the rest. I also did a 3/8" swayback adjustment -- I typically need less with Burda than Big4 -- I could have gone for 1/2".

I used my doubled tracing pencil with 3/8" seam allowances. After tracing the back skirt, I added an additional 3/8" using the pencil (e.g., traced the new cutting line, making it the seam line). 

I should have used my 5/8" pencil! Hahaha! My bottom is a 44 in Burda and this IS a fitted skirt. Whew!

I was having a no-nonsense kind of day so excuse my "over it" expression

The pattern pieces fit together beautifully, cause, Burda. 

I know the prevailing wisdom is that those of us of fuller-body shouldn't wear horizontal stripes (yawn), but I don't like vertical stripes most of the time. So I rotated some pattern pieces because, that's why I sew! Also,  "ain't nobody got time" for zippers in casual knit dresses. So I made sure most pieces stayed on grain so the stretch would be used appropriately. 

Did you see how closely I matched stripes at the waist seam? Didja? :)

Hey, I warned you it was a little "booty-tight" as we say in my house.  I was so focused on matching the side seams of the skirt as best I could that the waist seam (front to back) does NOT match on either side. Oops. 

I decided I was not going to stress myself out during cutting trying to match the darts after stitching AND the CB seam. So I kept it as even as possible so it's unmatched, deliberately. 

The facing is all in one and is beautifully done! It gives a clean finish at neckline and armholes. I had no knit interfacing on hand so I didn't interface. It mostly stays in place just fine except for a small portion in front. And yes, it does bug me a little :/ 


The overall look/fit, the seamlines, the length, and THE BACK NECKLINE! Swoon. I really like it!

I don't love the front neckline. I could have given myself a smidge more butt-room and would actually prefer this with a straight skirt instead of pegged. Pointed out because I was whining not long ago about lack of pegged pencil skirts on patterns.

Worn to the annual band banquet (DD didn't sport handmade this year)

Next up is Simplicity 8138 (to appear on the Fabric Mart blog later this month) and M7386 is cut out and ready to sew. I'm going to try to fit my May Burda in too.

We have a band concert tonight, senior award ceremony tomorrow, orchestra concert Thursday. Beyonce concert next Monday, my daughter is conducting her first concert on Tuesday and we have a scholarship recognition ceremony next Wednesday. Plus I need to get my house in some kind of order before people descend upon it the first week of June for the graduation. And someone should order a cake for the grad party. Bueller? Bueller?

Okay so perhaps my May Burda will appear in June...


  1. Looove how the dress turned out. There is so much to look at, I didn't notice anything that "went wrong" stripe-matching-wise. Also, I saw this pattern but passed it over because I thought it was only for wovens. Lookin' great, lady!

  2. This is gorgeous! I love how cheerful it is. The colour suits you so well and the possibilities for mixing it with jackets, jewellery & shoes are endless.

    I also love that "quick" is a multi seamed exercise in fitting and pattern matching!

  3. your dress is lovely and the horizontal stripes look god on you.

    In New Zealand graduation is November for schools and I have two this year, one from Intermediate (moving to high school in February) and one from High School. It is a busy year!

  4. Try as I might I cannot see anything that doesn't match in that dress. I'm also swooning over this dress and your execution. Wow.

  5. Wow, your dress turned out so beautiful. I absolutely don't see anything wrong. I love the pattern. You are one busy woman! It looks like your summer is getting off to a great start with lots of activities.

  6. This dress looks so great in striped fabric! Love it!

  7. I love that dress...the colors are great on you, and it's very flattering. And IMHO, you in no way have a " fuller body". :). ~Martina

  8. This looks fabulous on you! I love the stripes and the colors- gorgeous dress!

  9. I seem to live in a state of emergency (it FEELS that way!) and it sounds like you do to, but you LOOK absolutely beautiful, especially in that dress! It's just awesome! Love,those stripes!

  10. Oooooh- I love how you did the stripes! The chevron effect is super cool! You look fabulous!

  11. I loved that pattern the minute I saw it. Great summer dress for you - love the color. you used a knit with the stripes going crosswise (as most striped fabrics do?) I searched until I found one with vertical stripes.

  12. Nice! Beautiful job matching the stripes/chevrons. You look great!

  13. Absolutely LOVE this dress on you!! You did a super job with the stripes, and the way you styled it is perfect!!!!!!

  14. You did a fantastic job with that matching!

  15. AMAZING!!! Love how the stripes turned out and the colour is really nice on you.

  16. This dress looks so great on you, love the way you worked those stripes.

  17. Wow! This is stunning. You have used the stripes to great effect and I love the colour.

  18. Very very nice and it looks fabulous on you.

  19. I was thinking the same thing about your version of "quick". Its a gorgeous dress on you, and the directional stripes look terrific, very smart and stylish.

  20. Better late than never: that is just fabulous and you have nothing to apologize for anyone for horizonal stripes.
    Because all too soon, we don't want to be seen in horizontal striped knit dresses that show anything off.

  21. Love it, I think your stripe placement looks fantastic!

  22. Beautiful .. Love the color of the stripe too.. Congrats to your daughter.. Know you are super busy too.. Have a great time.

  23. Love this dress! You did a great job on it and it looks great!
    I am now a follower ;)
    Have a wonderful day!

  24. This dress looks amazing on you!! I love the color, the stripe matching, and everything!


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