Monday, September 8, 2014

Finished Item: Butterick 6104

I don't have great pics, sorry! I don't know why this haze is present!

Butterick 6104 is the only pattern from the latest release that I had to have. It has several views which gives different collar and length options,  princess seams, and is fully lined. 

Initially I freaked out and was all 'IT'S LINED TO THE EDGE!! WAHHHH!!!' but the front piece of the lining is cut from the fashion fabric.


Still deciding on closures...probably go with large sew-on snaps


I think part of the diagonal wrinkles are due to the lower left side of my body

I'll never wear the neck up like it is on the pattern envelope and like letting the collar just fall. Either it comes up higher than it appears on the pattern or I have a short neck. Whatevs.


I bagged the lining using Grainline's tutorial again. It's genius. I don't like hand sewing and don't mind the sleeve lining having visible stitching. I cut the sleeve lining 1/2" shorter than the sleeve and then used a 3/8" seam allowance.

I mentioned in my last post that I did a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment, lowered the front princess seams 1/2" (they could be another 1/2" lower). 

I used flannel cut in 2 1/2" strips on the bias for sleeve heads. When I used fleece in my other Butterick jacket, it felt a little too full. But this flannel is too thin. Ahhh. The sleeves went into the armholes beautifully. Thank. Goodness. 

I was pretty excited about this pattern until I reminded myself that I would have to sew alllllll those seams again in the lining. Bleh. Front and back princess seams, side seams, shoulder seams, all the peplum seams, sewing the peplum to the body, the sleeves. GOOD GRIEF! But the princess seams work so nicely that it's worth it!

Next time I'm going to do a slight swayback adjustment -- it looked good when I pinched out about 3/4" and pinned it. The back was nice and smooth. I will probably also cut the first peplum piece in the fashion fabric too.

Fashion fabric is a cotton/wool blend from FabricMart, lining is poly pongee in a pale blush pink.

Can we just talk a minute about fabric?

So, I sewed my floral S1696 pants in a 100% cotton. Then I sewed my S1803 dress in 100% cotton. Then I sewed the S2153 vest in 100% cotton. And this is a cotton/wool blend.

OHMYGOSH. EVERYTHING should be sewn with cotton!!! :)

Just sooooo easy to cut, mark, sew, press. Ahhhhhh

I thought this fabric was 100% cotton until I went to double check the date (Pattern Review fabric stash contest is running). That's when I saw that it was cotton/wool. Yes, it frays but holy cow was it well behaved!

I am taking a 2 day hiatus from sewing (yes, me) until the next challenge is announced -- assuming I make it to week 2!

Ciao!

Friday, September 5, 2014

WIP...and Stuff

Blogger.
Ugh. I think it's time to move platforms. I get that it's free but even if you're offering something for free (and you're GOOGLE), it should work. Seriously. 

Does anyone know if you get any better service when you have a paid site through Blogger? 

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We got our first challenge yesterday! We are to make a basic pattern...not-so-basic.

This challenge is actually going to be tough for me! Mainly because I'm not an embellisher. I just don't really have that type of eye. Secondly because I've avoided the Scout like the plague!  A dartless, pleatless, gatherless woven tee is scary when you have a full bust! So I'm kicking around some ideas to create a cute, one of a kind top that I'd love to wear. Wish me luck! :)

Read all about it here

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My jacket is progressing. I made a few tweaks to the pattern but perhaps it's not enough. The shoulder still looks a little too wide (maybe it'll improve when the lining is inserted?) and the bust point looks a little too high still.

(sorry to chop my head off...I looked crazy in this pic!)

Looking in the mirror, it appeared as if I had TONS of excess fabric in the middle of my back. So glad I finally got someone to take pictures...it isn't as bad as I thought. I'm guessing this is a swayback adjustment needed?? Also, I always forget about my lower left shoulder. Sure, I could cut two fronts but we know that's not going to happen. I usually just sew a slightly larger shoulder seam and "fix" it that way.



Does anyone know what to do about this little 'dead space' at the back of my upper arm? Is there a sleeve adjustment for this or is it just the way I'm standing? I'm not sure...


I had it on with a long sleeved knit tee to be sure multiple layers works. it was fine. I think the sleeve is a little full (from the bicep down) and perhaps shorten the sleeve hem just a tiny bit more (the right sleeve hem is pinned up).


Also, if you look at the front and back pics, the right sleeve is wonky!!! :) I set it first and thought it was pretty good...until I set the left one. It went in darn near perfectly and now ALL I can see is the right sleeve wonkiness! I'm going to be a good seamstress and rip it out and reset it.
ahhhh. The joy of finding PERFECTLY matched thread. Do you see red stitches?!? Me neither! LOL!


Now, I WILL wear this jacket as-is but I am also treating it as a wearable muslin. I love this pattern so far and want to make the view A (without contrasting lapels) and view D as-is for a lightweight fall coat. So I want to hash out the fitting issues.


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Jess of Sometimes Sewist is hosting Sew Selfless September! Now, when I started blogging I really wanted to call myself "the selfish seamstress" but she already existed (and should come back already!). The idea is to pledge to sew something for someone else this month. I do sew for my daughter here and there but think that this month I'll try "sewing for the boys" too.

She wanted a makeup bag but I pretty much have done horribly at making any sort of zippered bag/pouch/etc. So I was hesitant.

I found this tutorial by Flossie Tea Cakes and whaddya know! It worked!!

DD picked it all out after I gave her a pile of quilting cottons and the zipper basket to choose

Even with minor wonkiness I was SO proud that I immediately wanted to make another one!

For this one, I used this tute by Sew Mama Sew. I made it err, a little bigger... :) **I just realized I missed a step. I was thinking "this doesn't stand on it's own"...I forgot to do that part! If I can pry it away from her I might change it. Or just sew ANOTHER one! :)

I picked out this combo and she loved it.

I REALLY love these two together. I hope to get some more green zippers from Wawak and whip up a few of these for my nieces (I have like a thousand nieces! Ok...I have 8. But 3 of them are ADULTS. Sheesh!!)

Also, today is my parents 40th anniversary. YOWZA!  Love those two :-D