Wednesday, November 5, 2014

FABRIC (a whole bunch of it)!!!!

In the wise words of Carolyn, I will let the photos speak...

hahaha!

I went off the deep end. I got my FabricMart money and placed two orders, and then I went HAM!

Order 1 arrived:


And I was all...ooooooh. pretty.

A DREAMY cotton shirting in blue, a cotton plaid shirting, a beautifully bright printed twill bottomweight, cotton voile, A lightweight striped sweater knit, and the tribal sweater knit that has already been sewn!

(If you don't do this, I highly recommend that after petting your new fabric you wash them so they can be ready to sew when you feel like it!)

Thennnn, order 2 arrived! Remember the suiting sale? Uh-huh.


A windopane plaid and an inky black - both wool blends


grey on grey pin stripe and a linen blend


a grey herringbone (ready to become V9032!)


A light pinstripe. I'm unsure about this one. It'll have to grow on me in the stash


This fabric makes me HAPPY! I have 4.5 yards of it. I want slim pants and a slim fitting blazer. That will wait for spring.

Orders 2 and 3 are blurred because like, I ordered 2 days apart and they arrived on the same day.


I bypassed this fabric twice and then Ann sewed it up here. I immediately called to add 2 yards to my order! Yay me!


Rayon challis that is friggin amazing! I bought this to make pajamas.


Love. Love. Love. This will sit until summer but it's an ITY that has a bold black/white grid print and then the floral pattern over it. It's so pretty!


I bought this to make the Belle Bow blouse but I think it's too similar in overall scheme to what I made. It will find a pattern at some point, I'm sure.


I love chambray and at $2.99 I snatched up a healthy amount of this one. 


I like the print but somehow the fact that it is a burnout escaped me. It will be used, just not for what I thought.


This jersey doesn't feel nice :( Sad because it's such a pretty print. I'm going to sew up a new pattern with it. If it's wearable, we'll see if I can tolerate the scratchy feeling. If it is not wearable well, no love lost.


Can we just back track a bit? 

I knew I wanted to make new (pretty) pajamas and when the "unique prints" kept going on sale I decided to snatch some up for pjs. I thought this border print would be so cool...have the top transition between prints 1 and 2 and the shorts between prints 2 and 3. So I chose that rayon challis.

And it came.

And I opened it up.

And, OH MY GOSH! This fabric is absolutely gorgeous! 


From Fabric Mart's site (FOUND HERE)


I just want to STARE at it!!! :-) I wish I had like 5 more yards of it! Once I touched it all I could envision was a gorgeous kimono style robe. DRATS!



Some of these will be stashed until their turn arrives...others will become garments like, NOW!!

I think November will be a bit slower for me than most months, but that's okay. I have like 12 days off at the end of the year and will make up for it then ;-)









Sunday, November 2, 2014

Finished Item: In House Belle Bow Blouse

I've been posting a lot the last week - sorry!  But if I have something to share...I like to share! :)

I posted 4 tops, trying to decide which I'd add to my wardrobe this month:


I really want to make that McCall's top because it kind of reminds me of the Bruyere with it's general shape ( I can change the gathers to pleats) but I really wanted the Vogue top because it made me swoon the minute I saw it. 

I cut all the pieces out for V1387 on Friday while at home (I had the day off!). I read the directions and for some reason I got scared of it! I mean really, it isn't "difficult" but I have the pattern pieces nicely arranged on the ironing board and NOT the cutting table. Boo me! 

Friday night, while waiting on trick-or-treaters, I started assembling the Belle blouse (I really dislike the pdf thing. Goodness gracious I dislike it.) I cut the pattern pieces out (sometimes I trace, sometimes I don't. This time, I didn't!) that night and sat it aside.

I didn't even have much sewing mojo Saturday and started working on the pattern later on in the day. I chose this crazy print cotton voile that I'd picked up from SR Harris earlier this year. I don't know what made me choose this, maybe just because I love voile so much? Every time I pulled it out to use it, I knew I had to choose my pattern wisely due to the print. Oh and choosing a crazy print meant mistakes could be hidden but it also meant markings would be hidden! I swear it was as if I never made any markings on the damn thing at all when it came time to sew. Grrrr!

Not feeling like making a muslin, I decided this would be a wearable muslin. And based on finished measurements, I cut a size 12.

Wait -- It is imperative to note that this top is drafted for a D cup. Can we just clap or fist pump or pelvic thrust or something about this?! No FBA. Oh. Yeah!


The pattern has shoulder gathers and release tucks at front and back. The side seam has very nice shaping too!


Do you spy my tucks?? :)

Now, you may notice that fold of fabric in back. When I finished it, it fit so beautifully and then I turned to the side and WHY!?! Where is that fold of fabric coming from?!?! I have to assume it's some major swayback issues. When I extend my back to make it straight, the fold disappears. I ended up 'raising' my tucks another 2 1/2 inches in back to eat up some of that excess fabric. Believe me that this is much better than it was initially.


Before we talk about the other technical stuff, let's see more pictures!


The instructions mentioned they produce a clean finish on the yoke. I honestly couldn't quite understand the directions but I know how to do the burrito yoke method; which is what I did.

neat-o!

The tie collar connects from the front and there is a notch their to match, and another notch at the yoke seam. Well, someone sewed from the wrong notch and had to finagle the collar in place and ended up just serging the seam. But with the tie-neck you'll never see the serged seam anyway.



The sleeves are cut on and are hemmed with a narrow hem. 


There isn't a button band but there is a facing. I find this absolutely fantastic. 


And the front piece has the little excess cut out already to make a nice, clean finish on the hem. swooooon.


 And I had these tiny buttons in stash - score.


Now that we made it through a monster post (are you still there?? helloooooo?) :)

The pdf pattern went together fairly well. There were a few spots near the end that didn't perfectly match up at the markings, so I went by the size lines. 

The pattern has 1/2" side seam allowances, the front facing attaches at 1/4", the collar is 1/4", the yoke seams are 3/8", the tie is 3/8" at cb and 1/4" for the rest. This was NOT fun. I had to make a list because like, seriously. 

I read the directions before assembling the top and then ended up still doing my own thing and made some parts more complicated than they needed to be...but it worked out! 

Ah and fabric. The pattern calls for 1 5/8 yards of 60" fabric. Maybe my fabric wasn't quite 60" (but it wasn't as short as 44/45") but there was no way I was fitting those pieces on that fabric. I will have to check it on fabric that I know is wide enough but on this fabric I could not fit the tie on the bias and ended up cutting them on the cross grain. Everything still fit together just fine, but you lose that drape that the ties would otherwise have. This fabric is quite crisp so the bow can be unruly if not tied just right. 

I've been wanting a bow front blouse for like, ever. I really like it and have visions of an ivory challis with black collar & bow. 

Also, I think I have to buy the Kimono tee too. I like the shoulder gathers and the yoke. It's officially on my wish list!