Finished: McCall's 7244

Yep...I've made something else already. Actually a couple something else's...

I finished a cardigan and was having a hell of a time with the sweater knit and my buttonhole foot. I tried lots of things and was thinking of doing them by hand but nope. It's gonna go to my newfound seamstress lady. I'll just pay to get them done because I've mentally moved on from the project; but I want it finished! So full review to come - soon hopefully!

It's super cute :)

Alright; the point of the post!

I was all ga-ga over so many of the new McCall's and picked up a whole bunch of them. I knew that M7244 would get itself bumped way up on the list.

As I said in my planning post, I really need solid color work dresses. I decided on this merlot ponte from Fabric Mart. It's one of their mid/lightweights which I find perfect for dresses (and cardigans and skirts).

This pattern has a lined bodice which I did not realize at first. Because I am on a serious fabric fast, I trolled the stash for something to line it with and chose a mesh! It was a really good idea and I love that the inside of the dress is crazy :)

I should have cut a size 14 and did an FBA. But did I do that? No. No I did not. I did a 14 neckline/shoulder and graded to a 16 for the rest.

Finished measurements on the 16 are: 40 1/2 / 35 / 44 1/2. So just a tiny bit of positive ease at all points compared to my measurements (I am around 39.5"/34"/44")

Flat pattern adjustments:

1" length added to upper portion

1/2" swayback

1/2" bicep

Shortened the sleeves ~4"

Other adjustments:

I took the shoulder seam up an extra 1/4"

took the shoulder/sleeve in an extra 1/8"

Eliminated the zipper

Next time:

Nip the waist a bit

DO the FBA, I don't need much, but just a bit

Take a horizontal tuck on front between the shoulder and bust

Debating if I want to add more length. I don't want to change the proportions too much.

I think the boots make it look even shorter! 

Maybe it won't look so short when it's cold and I have on tights!! :)

I think some of the wrinkles are more to the fact that I lengthened the actual pattern 

but not the lining pattern :-O

So I ended up just making it work. 

My crazy lining! :) This graffiti mesh came from Fabric Mart, some time ago.

It's lined but also has a facing. 

At first I was annoyed by this but it really does make for a super clean finish. 

I wanted to use this mesh SO badly that I ended up piecing the back LOL! But the seams aren't that visible so...

The transition from the lined bodice to the unlined sleeve seems a bit bulky.

Maybe I need to serge a little closer to the seam allowance to really trim that down.

I absolutely adore the dress even though I believe the dropped waist emphasizes my rectangular shape.  And, I will definitely sew it in a print...and I think I'd love a sleeveless version. I almost didn't put the sleeves on this one! Then I remembered it was for fall/winter :)

I would give this pattern high recommendations.

I have to admit though that even though I KNEW what to do with the facing/lining, I thought the instructions were a little confusing. It really is self-explanatory. Sew the facing to the lining, sew the whole thing to the dress, understitch, press.

Since I eliminated the zipper I didn't need to worry about connecting lining to zipper. IMO I hate zippers in easy wear knit dresses like this. It affects my "knit dress = secret pajamas" mindset :-p

Can't wait to dive into the rest of my fall McCalls!

August Wrap-Up & September Plans

August turned out more productive than planned (although, M6964 was sewn 4 times (2 for me, 2 for my daughter), which tends to make things to faster!) but I didn't make all of my intended garments listed at the start of the month.

I skipped the Burda top mainly because I was unsure if I wanted to use that fabric for it. And also, the skirt (both from the August issue). That fabric is so pretty!! And, by the time I was going to make it, we had already started having morning lows of like 50 degrees.

This month I sewed 15 1/8 yards

• McCall's 6964 in white textured double knit - 1.5 yards (for my daughter)
• Butterick 5926 jacket in navy and white striped ponte - 1.75 yards
• Kwik Sew 3884 shorts in red chambray - 1 3/8 yards (for my son)

Son bought a couple pair of Ralph Lauren shorts. He tried them on, then tried the KS pair on. He said "oh, the red pair fit way better" :) Of course they do son!

• Burda 06/2015 dress in printed jersey - 1.75 yards
• Vogue 9032 pants in light gray plaid suiting - 1.75 yards
• Butterick 6141 jacket in floral cotton faille - 2.5 yards (wip)
• McCall's 6964 dress in black ponte - 1.5 yards (for my daughter)
• McCall's 6964 top in coral ITY - 1.25 yards
• McCall's 6964 top in black cotton-lycra - 1.25 yards

Favorite: I am in love with the coral tee. Eek. And the Vogue pants. Hard to choose this month :)

Fail: No wadders this month - yay! Otherwise all of my garments except the Vogue pants and black tee have just a tiny something off with them. I love the garments I made for the kids.

Accomplishments: I made welt pockets in TWO garments this month! And in a knit! Woohoo! I also executed a couple of pretty good V-necks!

September Plans:

I have lots. But what else is new!? :)

I plan to make the Sewaholic Minoru for rainy fall days. I hate umbrellas. I would much rather have a hood. So this one will be up early in the queue. 

I have one solid colored work-appropriate dress. One. So I have plans for few dresses and I want them all to be solids. This month I'm starting with:

M7244: Which I predict will be popular this fall. I am thinking marsala or charcoal gray

B5030 in a navy crepe (this dress is so beautiful to me!)

Need more cardigans. Need. That is all. :-p

M7254: views D (and E eventually!). The cardigan will be made in this ivory/black chevron ponte

M6708 (OOP): view E w/o pockets in black/white polka-dot hacci sweater knit

Tops:

Burda 7136; which I've made twice. Now it's time for the classic white shirt! I splurged on some Italian cotton shirting from Sawyer Brook . It is time. :)

Another one or two McCall's 6964 tees. The v-neck just really looks good on me, imo. I will make another short sleeved one and a long sleeved version

SKirt:

I'll be making the bias cut Burda skirt from the 8/2015 issue in a lightweight rayon blend suiting.

SUPER ambitious, I know, I know!

But I know the two tees can be quickly knocked out as evident by the two I made this weekend. The Burda top will take awhile to sew but I've sewn it before. Cardigans are pretty fast makes. But yeah, it's an ambitious plan!

Especially since some of my must-see tv will return for the fall. I've never been a big TV fan but lately I have developed some serious loves for a few shows. Both Scandal and Empire return this month; plus Project Runway just started. Being Mary Jane is scheduled to return (soon?) and I have gotten hooked on Madame Secretary. I love Tea Leoni!! 

ALSO(!), I am the contest manager for the Pattern Review Sewing Bee (You should check it out!!!) and the Fabric Mart Fabricista's contest starts up September 11th and I'll be an eager observer and may even sew along!

In addition! (LOL!), school just started and I have a senior and there are a gazillion meetings and somehow I volunteered to be the treasurer for the performance band.  

WHEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The things I get myself into.

But I have some personal things going on (boo!) and the distractions will help a ton. So just know, when you see the things flying off the machine, I am fully exercising the art of therapeutic sewing.