Thursday, July 10, 2014

Mini Wardrobe: Butterick 5926

Last year when I made this jacket, things went okay...but not well


 The collar gave me fits and the shoulders were WAY too wide.



When I decided to use this pattern again I was all "BUT THE COLLAR!?!?" The instructions are NOT good enough to get you a well-done collar. Not. At. All.

But I was determined to get a nice lapel so I didn't allow myself to freak out about it. I thought to myself, I thought, "Self; 1) you are a much more experienced sewer than you were in October and 2) get help before you start."

I was pointed towards this great tutorial by Sherry of Pattern, Scissors, Cloth: HERE. The only thing is she uses black fabric which we all know is a bear to photograph. So I missed some of the details and ended up unpicking stitches and checking and sewing a few stitches and checking and sewing a few stitches and...yeah. It went like that.

I think the ultimate takeaway is: 
  1. Mind your seam allowances!
  2. Trim/grade your seams!!(!!)
  3. Clip your curves!!!
And for all my hardwork...I got a nice notched collar!


I stabilized the hem with fusible knit tape


Back shoulder darts (need a better pressing - oops!)


IMO this pattern has a great sleevecap that barely needs to be eased in at all. They went in flawlessly on the grey version and this one too!


I'm a sucker for a little contrasting serger thread! I know it can be taboo for some but I like it! I'd bought extra spools of green thread (bless you 1034D and your ability to use regular spools) but after making some tests I decided I preferred the white.

(Facings will be catchstitched...)

I remembered to move the pockets forward a bit; but only like 1/2 an inch. They were just a tad too far back on the first version.


The center back seam that helps with the lovely swayback


I remembered to narrow the shoulder (by 3/4"!)...but didn't realize I needed a vertical FBA so I have some draglines again.

(I think I need to shorten the sleeves a little bit.)


It doesn't look so wrinkly in real life...And it's all soft and cuddly! It looks reallllly cute with my other mini wardrobe items too!! :-)

I was going to make 3/4 sleeves but duh. I live in the tundra. It will only be short-sleeved weather for about 8 more weeks. And then the 28 weeks of cold and then... :)

I think I'll take the sleeves up a little and give all those darts another good press. I need to do the buttonholes (even though I never even cut them open on the grey one!).

Oh! And I'm thinking about this button:

I think it works well with the color!

Other thoughts...

Beth of 110 Creations mentioned here, in her trials with this jacket about something strange happening when the facings are attached. I completely agree.

Something goes a bit wonky in the area where collar/shoulder seam/facing all meet. I don't have enough experience to say WHAT's wrong just know that it is a little off. And I don't think it's the bulk...when I made B5927, it's not weird in that area at all and that was with a denim-type suiting fabric. This is a not-quite midweight knit. But again, I can't say for sure.

This pattern was actually pretty fast.
7/5: I cut it out (~30 min)
7/6: sewed all 6 darts, sewed CB seam (~30 min)
7/7: sewed patch pockets, sewed fronts to back (~1 hour)
7/8 a.m.: interfaced collar (~15 minutes)
7/8 p.m.: sewed collar to jacket, interfaced facings (~30 min)
7/9 a.m.: sewed one side of collar/lapel/facing (~45 min - there was MUCH stitch unpicking!)
7/9 p.m.: finished collar/lapel/facing, set sleeves, hemmed (~2.5 hours)

The only "marathon" sewing was last night...I am a firm believer in squeezing in a few minutes of time where you can. I'll sew the buttonholes tonight, handsew the buttons and catchstitch the facings. Done and done.

We have a busy weekend of softball so I will probably start my cropped pants. Pants work very well being done in tiny increments. If I'm lucky I'll get them done over the course of the weekend and get my shirt done over the first half of next week. I have NO free weekends again until August 8th!


42 comments:

  1. This looks amazing! You've almost got me thinking I can pull out my failure and try again...although I should probably start fresh. I think I over-clipped along the collar and ended up with a hole somewhere. I think the biggest flaw with the instructions is that they have you clip before you attach the collar. If you clip too far then you're screwed before you even attach it. Next time, I'll sew and clip as I go.

    And yes, likely there will be a next time, especially after seeing how nicely this one looks!

    ReplyDelete
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    1. Thank you Beth!!!

      That tutorial really helped me and yes, the instructions for this jacket are just odd.

      I'd forgotten that you took your pink ponte and moved on to the Victoria! :) It looks great on you.

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  2. I think it's beautiful--I'm not an expert but I think you did a fabulous job. Love the color. You are teaching me so much with how you squeeze in small amounts of time to do your sewing.

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    1. Thank you Robin!

      Try it. For awhile I made myself go in my room for at least 20 minutes a day. There's always 20 minutes even when you're super busy. 20 minutes a day adds up to over 2 hours in a week! 30 minutes is 3 1/2 hours!!!

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  3. The jacket looks fantastic! I think your modifications make a wonderful difference between the fit of your first version and the second. Mostly, I love that you used a bright color for this version! I think it will be wonderful all spring/summer and a nice way to add a pop of color in the winter!

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    1. Thank you!

      I have tried it on several times and the color just makes me SMILE!

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  4. It looks absolutely beautiful. That color is great on you. I seriously need to force myself to spend some time everyday with my sewing machine. You are able to get so much done.

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    1. Thank you!

      Try it for a week! 15 minutes a day, minimum

      Delete
  5. You made a beautiful jacket in a very pretty color! I know it will look nice when you put it all together.

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  6. Beautiful! I love the color!!! I think you did a great job on the lapels. It reminds me of a dress I sewed for the Sew Weekly Challenge. I found help from this tutorial http://pleasantviewschoolhouse.blogspot.com.au/2010/02/how-to-sew-lapel-collar-classic.html
    but it is still a bear to get them right. Yours turned out perfect!

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    1. thanks Kristin!! And thank you for another resource!

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  7. I love it. You did a great job with the construction, and the color is gorgeous! (Your first notched collar looks similar to my first notched collar, BTW.)

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    1. Thank you Michelle! And for the solidarity too! ;-)

      Although I DO have to admit it feels pretty danged good to remake some of these patterns and see how much my skills have improved!

      Delete
  8. Great color. All the extra effort was worth it.

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  9. Those lapels are fantastic. You've got it down so you can keep plenty of blazers.

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    1. Thanks Dorothy! I most certainly have the jacket bug now!

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  10. You did a great job, I was just looking at my ponte knits I got during FM's super sales and thought I want some jackets with them. I was looking through my stash for a pattern and think I have this one.
    My issue has always been those stupid collars. You have given me hope. I am going to look to see if I have this pattern to use for my jackets. Thanks

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  11. That color... oh, I like that so much! I love a knit blazer, it's a sneaky way of looking like you are put together but feel like you're wearing an old sweatshirt. Nicely done!

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    Replies
    1. EXACTLY!!!! :) I'm like...ahhhh so comfy, cozy... :)

      Thanks Kathy!

      Delete
  12. Oooh, this blazer is gorgeous, and the color is fantastic.. I'm sure you will get plenty of wear from this garment..

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  13. Absolutely perfect... love the color and love the jacket.Looks great on you.. You did a really good job.. Like you sewing little bits of sewing...taking advantage of little bits of time..

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  14. I think I'm a little bit in love with your jacket - the colour, that awesome notched collar, the fabric...It's fabulous.

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  15. Great job on making the notched collar! I can't wait to see the entire wardrobe.

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  16. You've certainly learnt a lot since last year - this jacket looks great. Can't wait to see what you put with it :)

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  17. Great! I'm just back from a jacket workshop; I was advised to start with a collar without a notch. Next time though! Clearly the pattern choice makes a big difference. I need to remember to look at reviews (preferably before I buy the pattern!)

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    1. I think it's a great idea to work up to different skills! And yes...reviewing patterns before hand (and reading the directions before starting) are very helpful!

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  18. It looks just great on you - I'm impressed with your sewing skills!
    Question - When you narrow the shoulder by 3/4", do you add 3/4" to the sleeve head? (I have narrow shoulders and All Patterns have shoulders that are too wide for me.)

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    Replies
    1. Thanks!

      No adjustment to the sleeve head. I only change the shoulder using a pivot and slide.

      Delete
  19. I want to make a jacket. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgh.

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  20. Nakisha I so look forward to your projects. You never seem to amaze me and I love the tone of your blog. Thanks so much for sharing and I LOVE that jacket, awesome job. Thanks for sharing

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  21. Beautiful jacket Nakisha. It must be so rewarding to compare this jacket to last years, and see how much your sewing has improved. Love you tips about sewing in short bursts...great idea.

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  22. Your jacket is really cute on you! and just beautifully sewn. I like how you've used the contrasting serger thread too; looks really cool :)

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  23. You have conquered the notched collar-excellent job!

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!