Tuesday, November 10, 2015

Burda Fest (Part One?)

It's looking like November is going to be a Burda! Burda! Burda!! month.

You'll have to forgive the photos. I was losing daylight by the second and won't be able to do photos again until Saturday. And I already have FOUR other things to blog. I couldn't get further behind!!!!

On with it!

When the preview for October came out, all I could see was this "top". Then I learned it was a sleeveless top and capelet combo.






I was smitten.

The cowl and back bands are integrated (it's a weird pattern piece!). It has release pleats in front, bust darts and darts that release in back.

It is shown once as a knit and once as a woven and includes a zipper. With the low back, in a knit, a zipper is not needed. Also, Dawn at Two On Two Off made it in a woven and still eliminated the zipper. So ymmv.

I was extra happy when I saw that it was the sewing lesson pattern - yay!

Sigh.

Still Burda-fied. I don't know what in the heck they wanted me to do with finishing the neckline. No clue. At all. Like, I don't even know. Total make it work moment.

Maybe one day someone more experienced than me will post a show and tell and make this make sense because it is a beautiful top. I have some fit issues that would need correcting but I would totally make this again!!!



The back bands are gaping on me. The top pic on the right is where I attempted to pull it in a bit closer to my back. I just sewed it diagonally, but I need a better fit at the shoulder as well.

I used a size 40 through the neck/shoulder and 42 for the rest.
I typically do not need an FBA or to lower bust darts with Burda.
I meant to do a swayback adjustment -- forgot. Dang it.
I used bindings on the armholes instead of the included facings. Bad idea. The shoulder is a bit dropped and I think it looks weird with the bindings.
I added a 1 1/4" hem allowance (which I normally skip hem allowances on regular sized Burda patterns). I removed 3/8" and still used a 1 1/4" allowance. 



I think it's so cute!!!!! 

I did make another silly mistake; there is another pattern that uses this cowl. For this pattern the top part should be about 7" shorter! hahaha! So I'm going to chop it off and re-hem. As is it's crazy 'tall'! FYI in the other pattern it is folded in half so still; not intended to be a ginormous collar :)

I can't say I'll make a bunch of these :-p but I will make the top again. I think it would be beautiful in a woven. I'll have to muslin that. 

I kind of want the other pattern too that uses this collar; need to go digging in the stash for a fabric. 



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And FINALLY!!!!!! I made the skirt from the August issue!!!!



SWOOOOOOON!

I would totally make this in a stripe for chevron or in something with drape. Ahhhh.

As it were I used a double-sided suiting fabric (composition unknown; it doesn't love being pressed without lots of steam).

I used a 42 for the front and a 44 for the back (that's my new thing with skirts; works wonderfully!).
I added no hem allowance and hemmed it 1 1/4" using catch stitch. Next time I'll do slipstitch in the back, at least.
I added 1" side seam allowance (3/8" everywhere else). I ended using 3/4" seam allowance at the waist and 1" for the rest. I will do a slash and spread to add the needed waist room.
I used a lapped zipper instead of invisible and made a tab with button.

I. Love. It.


Love.

I can't tell you how many times I've tried it on. The asymmetry is very subtle. It's higher at CF and slopes down to the side seams, which then dips down in back.

Did I mention that I love it?


The front sits nice and flat. It sits a little higher on the waist


My daughter has this thrifted skirt (cobalt blue, 100% wool, lined...it's gorgeous) and I was looking (admiring!) at it recently. I loved the lapped zipper and button tab and decided to use that on this skirt.

I just seem to favor a lapped zipper on skirts lately :)


Insides!


Totally should have slipped stitch. Dang it.


I realized I was putting this project off and had to figure out why.

I was afraid!

Reading the directions I was all "WHAT THE HECK?!" with the back waistband but front facing. "WHY would they do that?!?"

Well, they did it because it is a beautiful finish! :)

And not nearly as complicated as I was allowing my brain to make it out to be. The back piece is just "short" the amount of the waistband...once the back waistband pieces are on then it's easy-peasy. I sewed the side seams through the facings, understitched the front facing, pressed everything, and stitched in the ditch on the back facing. 


I like how it can read as grey; and plan to wear it as pictured Thursday or Friday!



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 Lastly, I was selected as a "Top 50" Blogger by Burda. Yay! While I won't do the affiliate program at this time, I will gladly take the 5 free patterns that I won. There are some items from 2012 and 2013 that I must have! :)


25 comments:

  1. I love all these garments you just made! The skirt was beautiful and the top with the capelet was so unique looking. Great job!

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  2. Oooh...I love that top with capelet combo! Very cute! That skirt looks fab with the denim jacket and yellow top. You will be rocking it later this week!

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    1. Thanks Tomasa!! I am totally adoring Burda right now!

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  3. Everything is beautiful! Love that top pattern.

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  4. I just finished that skirt too and will blog it as soon as my new dress form arrives. I was thinking the same as you about the front facing/back waistband thing, but I love the finish. Yours looks great and now I'm thinking I will make your top too, even with the crazy instructions!

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    1. Yay! It is a beautiful skirt!

      Okay so if you make the top as well and can make sense of the directions, please explain it! :)

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  5. That skirt is a winner - as you say, subtle in the shaping. Not dipping too low at the back. The flat faced front is very flattering as well. Hope you work out how to make the top - mind you, the cape covers any sins.

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    1. Thank you Sarah Liz! That's why I just went for it :)

      I really love the skirt.

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  6. These are awesome! And the skirt looks amazing! I totally want to try out that top now too. And congrats on your Burda Award!

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    1. Thank you!! I hope you will make the top!!!

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  7. Love, love this skirt! I think the fear of that waistband would hold me back too.

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    1. Thank you!!

      I am so glad I decided to do it. It was totally worth it.

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  8. Lovely! What a great skirt and the top looks great on you too. I really like it. Love your boots and your skirt styling.

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  9. The speed at which you sew, and the gorgeous styles that you pick are amazing! I am in total awe!!! And congrats on the top 50 honor, and your free 5 patterns!

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    1. Aw, thank you!!!

      I've got to get some good ones! :)

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  10. I love your Burda makes Nakisha! So awesome! Congrats on being one of the top 50 bloggers as well!!! You are just a rocking and a rolling! So very well done!

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  11. The subtlety in the skirt hem is so appealing! I think I may need to go back and rehem one of my previous makes after seeing this...

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  12. I love your skirt and top! Congratulations on your win, it's well deserved!

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  13. Congratulations on becoming one of burda's top 50 bloggers. I voted for you and vowed that I would not vote for anyone if your name hadn't made the list.

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  14. You always make work-worthy clothes that aren't boring. I want to be your kind of adult at some point!

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  15. Hey now! Congrats on being one of the top 50 sewing bloggers. I didn't even know voting was going on. I second prttynpnk's comment in wanting to adult like you. =) The skirt is great!

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  16. Congrats on the top blogger award! I'm not surprised, you blog is amazing :D
    So I'm totally taking your 42 front/ 44 back trick. My butt is huge and when I sew for my "size" the front is always so big.
    Love your skirt, the top is cute but why can't Burda make directions easier! :)

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!