Saturday, June 6, 2015

The Good: Butterick 6204; The Bad: Burda 6/2015 #126

I have been doing a terrible job at replying to comments lately; my apologies!!

Let's start with the bad, shall we?

There are several garments in the June issue of Burda that I want. I was immediately drawn to the culottes in the plus size section. I'm pretty much a 40/42 in Burda tops and dresses depending on the style and assumed I needed to go up a size for my bottoms as I do with the Big 4. So I figured the 44 should work for me!

Initially, I was going to use some awesome linen that I got from the Fabric Mart contest last year but it had far too much body after washing and drying that I decided on a lightweight cotton blend suiting. I really love the color of this fabric and have been hoarding it.

While tracing the pattern off, I started really questioning if I should make them or not. Because I am getting wiser in my old age :) I pulled out the purplish RPL that I'd gotten a generous cut of earlier this year. This one was much less vibrant than it appeared on the site---and I've yet to believe I can successfully wear this color or not---so I figured it was perfect for a muslin.

I cut the size 44, knew that crotch curve would be all kinds of wrong and the tissue fit confirmed I'd have some "butt hungriness" so I scooped out A LOT; like 1/2" and that was the right move. I did not add any hem allowance because I never need to with Burda (unless it's a petite pattern).  I added 5/8" seam allowances except for 1" at the side seams. This was good as I needed a little more room at the high hip.

I cut off 7 inches of fabric from them. SEVEN INCHES! I hate everything about them. I hate them. I hate them. I hate them.

And I still don't think this is a good color for me.


Do I look cool and chic like her? Nope. 

Also she must be like 6'4" cause...SEVEN INCHES.


They "fit"; the side seam is straight, the back looks good...

But I hate the style on me. Too much fabric. And, OMG the dropped crotch. I do not like it...it is not comfortable. 

Other 'what in the world?!' for me is that the front crotch is sewn to the notch and then you topstitch the left side and then it wraps over. The part that would have a zipper? It's just open O_o I understand it because of the crossover; and it will have two outside buttons and an inside button, but again, not a feature I particularly cared for.

There will be NO additional work on these! I am moving on!!!!

***************

But there is LIGHT! :-)

When B6204 dropped I was all aghast. I had to have this dress!!! 


I mean, doesn't she look great?! :) I did not care for the hi-low hem but view A has an even hem...

I was going to muslin this but I've made similar and figured flat measuring and tissue fitting should suffice.

I have previously been using 14 D-cup but I think that I need to use the C cup and do a small FBA. It seems as though the D cup has too much projection. Like my bust are more full than sticky-outy.  Anyhow, I went with a 16 C cup. Traced, did some tissue fitting...made some changes to the front.

The Front.

Did I fit the back at all? Nope. Sometimes my older self is not wiser.

On the 16 C bodice I "took back" 1" of the dart uptake, lowered the darts 1", and did a 3/8" tuck on the front neckline to hopefully prevent gaping. I also did a 3/8" armscye tuck. I did not narrow the shoulder. I added 2 inches to the front waistband to match the addition to the front pattern piece and to the front skirt to match the waistband.

I decided to leave off the belt carriers and pockets and completely forgot to interface my waistband...

The instructions for lining the bodice was great! Sew the armscye seams first, easier to understitch that way! And if you try on your bodice a whole bunch of times (like, a whole bunch), it may 'grow' and then be slightly bigger than your lining. I don't know anyone who may have done that though...

hahaha!

Once I got it assembled, I basted in the zipper and got this:

my daughter keeps Christmas lights up in her room :)

Yeah...you should have fit the back too crazy lady!!!

But my in progress shot was encouraging so I was excited to finish:


And then trying to get the zipper in with the crazy amount of excess fabric in the back resulted in a serious case of Whiskey Tango Foxtrot with some of the inside finishes.

I was so annoyed...and I'd go so far as saying I was completely pissed off at this dress last night!!!! I wanted to throw it in the fire place!!!! Nothing was going right. I probably should've just quit and came back to it but I didn't and as a result just suffered!

I pushed and pushed and when I tried on the finished dress, I was giddy! GIDDY!!!!! I was both glad that I powered through and mad that I "angry sewed" the rest of it.

(Dear daughter, you could have warned me about the trash cans...)





I mean...the twirly shots are far more important than anything else, right? RIGHT?!?!



It feels great on and I think those few bodice wrinkles are totally due to me making the fashion fabric stretch out of shape.


I just left all the excess fabric and used wonder tape to get the zipper in place as needed


Clean lined bodice!!

In the area where you have the cross over there's lots of bulk...be sure to grade that seam...



The side split

Now, do I love it? I do...I love it very much. But what's up with the crazy amount of fabric in back? Is it due to me choosing the wrong bodice size? Is the pattern just crazy big in back?? I can't say for sure. 

All fabric in this post from Fabric Mart!

53 comments:

  1. I feel your culotte related pain! I have been entirely put off any culottes ever after I made that one utterly hideous pair last summer in green linen using the pattern from Ottobre. So very wrong on me, so much volume, never again.

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  2. That dress is gorgeous on you! I think the culottes look fine (and that back fit is perfect) but i hear you on the dropped crotch. Eeww. Do lots of dresstwirling!

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    1. Thank you! Omg I had never known the horror of a dropped crotch :(

      Delete
  3. OMG, thank you for saving me from those culottes! Yeah, those are a wadder. I'm 3" shorter than you (if I remember correctly), so I can't imagine how they'd look on me. At least the fit through the butt looks great?

    And that Butterick makes a very chic LBD for you.

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    1. Run Michelle! Save yourself! Lol!

      The butt does look good and gives me hope for trying another Burda pants pattern another day.

      Delete
  4. hahahahaha "angry sew", too funny! I've been there and done that, quite a few times. Sorry about the wadder - I can't believe you have those too! ;-)
    Excellent come back with the black dress - stunning!

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    1. I was angry sewing my butt off!!! I was like the dad in Christmas Story! lol!!!!!!

      I usually just toss my wadders in the trash and move on but I really want to document them too!

      Delete
  5. Great LBD!! Twirl away, twirl away -- you nailed it!! The culottes--umm, no. I don't blame you. I really don't think they look good on the model either.

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    1. Thank you!!!

      I'm officially over the culottes trend!

      Delete
  6. The dress is great. And the culottes ... they are not your fault. If the model were standing straight they would look weird on her too - it's that crazy asymmetrical front. I am not sure who it would flatter.

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    1. Darn Burda and their photo trickery. It would be nice if they included a normal straight on shot of front and back. Sigh.

      Thank you! I love my new dress!

      Delete
  7. I wanted to make these same culottes so I am glad you did your review. THese are out for me too. I love your dress though. It really suits you. Bravo!

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    1. Thanks so much!

      I sure hope someone has success with those culottes!

      Delete
  8. The dress is lovely and fun. Culottes are not my thing--not since I had a pair in 1976.

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    1. Ahahaha, my first thought on reading this wonderful post. Brought back memories of pale lipstick, trying to look (and sing) like Linda Rondstadt. Just Say No!

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    2. Yes, we who are old enough to remember culottes from their last go around have been shaking our heads- sorry you had to learn from those...
      But, hey- your dress is Gorgeous!!! Beautifully done, dear!

      Delete
    3. Hahaha! I love it! I definitely have it out of my system! :)

      Thank you so much re: the dress!

      Delete
  9. Good to ditch the culottes... I don't think they look good on the model either to be honest. I think culottes/gaucho pants or whatever you want to call them look good but not with extra, extra flaps of fabric. The dress looks really fantastic and I love the hem detail. You look great in it and I love your shoes too!

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  10. Your dress looks amazing! I use wonder tape too for installing zippers. I don't know how I managed before I discovered that stuff.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you!! OMG I am surprised I don't read about it more often! It really makes life easier!

      Delete
  11. I kind of dig the culottes on you, lol. But I am weird that way. BUT I LOVE the dress on you. Beautiful.

    Re: comments, oh, man, do I get not being able to get back to commenting. It certainly is a great thing to do, but most readers get that you have a busy life, so don't ever stress about it. I installed disqus because it emails readers back with my comment so they know I commented, even if it is a few weeks later. But it's kind of a pain to install, so only do it if you are as slow as me, lol.

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    1. Thanks Dina!

      I've considered Disqus...wah! it does seem fiddly.

      Delete
  12. Thank you for sharing your trials and tribulations, as well as your successes. Love the black twirly dress, especially all twirled.

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  13. Ohh dear....the culotte mishap - it happens. The bin was best...

    The dress though - a winner on you:)

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    1. Definitely bin material! Thanks Sarah Liz!

      Delete
  14. that dress looks amazing on you! and too bad the culottes didn't work out.. i usually don't like culottes, as most of those that people sew nowadays are just regular wide trousers, but cropped.. but i kind of like this pattern, for being interesting and different (and from some strange reason, i wanna try making a pair)

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    1. Thank you!!

      Yeah, I read on GOMI that "true" culottes have the skirt appearance. Never knew that!

      Delete
  15. Culottes a no no dress a big yes. Do hope you will make another as it looks lovely

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    1. Thank you Louise!! I do hope to find another fantastic fabric choice for it!

      Delete
  16. Pretty dress and love the twirl pics... lol. Sorry about your culotte project. At 5'3" and a vertical rectangle body could not even think or dream of wearing culottes, but love seeing them on others.

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    1. Thanks Sheila!

      Aw man, so glad I only wasted a tiny bit of time!!!!

      Delete
  17. OMG those culottes. You have cured my urge. LOL - so sorry!
    The wrap dress is nice on you - Anne at Gorgeous Fabrics had a great idea for securing a busty wrap dress - she uses a little piece of boning that tucks into your bra - it's an interesting idea I am going to try on my next one.

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    1. Hahaha! Glad I could help! :-p

      I'll have to look that up. I really love her blog.

      Delete
  18. lol@ the culottes. I was thinking if I can get away with wearing culottes to work but...culottes are a throwback for me; I didn't wear them back then and I guess I shouldn't wear them now. You just saved me. Um..you look great in the dress, much better than the model.

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    1. HA! I am doing my civic duty here!!! :)

      Delete
  19. "Angry sew" is yet another phrase worked into my regular lexicon.

    Oscar Mike Golf! The twirly dress is faboo! Butterick multi-cup patterns are in time-out at the moment, so I don't know if I'll get this pattern. I will find a replacement and straight copy this look! Well done!

    Oh and booo on the culottes. They were never for me and I'm shorter than Michelle!

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    1. Thank you L!!

      haha! And angry sew should definitely be in a sewing dictionary!

      Delete
  20. I agree that style of culottes are a no-NO for you. I love culottes but not that style. I am confident you will be able to turn them into something else . The dress is a winner.

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  21. HAhahahahahha. Your picture made me crack up. The dress though, the dress is AMAZING! And wtf is up with Burda length? I never add SA to hems and always end up cutting another 3-4 inches off for the length. I'll admit I'm a hussy and like things shorter, but that's like 5 inches of extra!!! Who models these things!

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    1. A hussy! LOL!!!

      I mean, really, they claim to draft for what, 5'6" or 5'7"?? lies. LOL! They draft for 6 foot tall women!

      Delete
  22. Well, if you have to sew a wadder to get to that dress- it's worth it! That's lovely!

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  23. I dunno, I really LIKE those culottes on you! They almost look like a skirt and I love the eggplant color. Of course, if you don't feel good in them, well, that's that...

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    1. Aww, thank you! I appreciate the kind words even though they make me want to rage! LOL!

      Delete
  24. To be honest, I don't think the culottes look great on the model. They make her look huge in my opinion. But that dress is just gorgeous on you!

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  25. Love the dress and those shoes. Shame about the culottes.

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  26. So cute on you, and a helpful review! Thank you!!

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!