Aaaand Sometimes we Fail...

Sigh. I knew I should have used my limited weekend sewing time to work on my dress but did I? No. No I did not.

I decided I had an hour Friday and 2-3 hours Saturday and a couple hours Sunday to sew. I knew I could get the dress complete. Yet I couldn't get the Style Arc Edith off of my mind.

It was the September freebie and totally pushed me to make my first ever SA paper pattern purchase.
I wanted the view with short sleeves and decided on a little color blocking...And then, Sue sewed it up (here) and I was sold. We have very similar tastes in patterns  and typically take the same size in tops and jackets (so many times I check her blog first to see if she reviewed a pattern!). When I saw that she'd sewn a size 12, I was happy - yay! That's what size I'd ordered.

Now, let's just make a list of how things went wrong.

1) Rayon challis. I have sewn challis a bunch. I like it. I have never, ever (EVER!) successfully sewn a solid colored rayon challis. So weird. But I made a TNT top (M6519) out of a teal challis and it was just wrong. Droopy and lifeless. Even though my 2 previous versions were challis as well. When I tried to make the white In-House top with white challis? Disaster. I cut the buttons off and tossed that thing. And now, this pretty pumpkin challis? MEH!!!!!!

2) Style Arc does not give very good directions. IMO it is much different from Burda. Burda may have you scratching your head and thinking 'what the hell?', but generally they give you all the info you need to get it done. Their instructions are generally very terse but you can manage. SA seems to just not give good info. AND people have noted some issues with drafting, etc.

2a) There were no directions to reinforce the area where you clip for the placket. Well, that's not a good idea. I did so anyway.
2b) The pocket flaps were too small for the pockets. I cut my pockets out, squared them back up before pressing seam allowances, etc. Both had a 3/8" seam allowance yet my pocket was wider than my flap. I was going to redo the flaps (easier than redoing the pockets), but thought I could just line the side seams up. Well, this resulted in droopy, saggy, wrinkly pockets.

3) I didn't do my reinforcing stitches wide enough so my front bands don't overlap perfectly. If those lines had been there, this probably would have been the best placket ever. There was some good here and I think if I ever attempt another placket (HA!) I will do it this way.

3a) The entire band is interfaced. The last one I did had separate band and facing and the facing wasn't interfaced.
3b) They have you finish the bottom of the placket (which is usually one of the biggest headaches) and when you go to finish the bottom you sandwich the little triangle between the two bands. This was so clean compared to 'normal' methods given on patterns!
3c) They instructed you to turn up both seam allowances. I didn't (and wouldn't) do this. Only do it on the 'facing' part. Stitch it, press the fold in place, stitch in the ditch.
3d) I liked the periodic horizontal stitching to secure the bands.

Okay, there is a lot about this top to like.

4) Soooo I have this silky soft poly crepe that I wanted to use for the bottom band. This is when the biggest woe began. You fold up the hem on the main part and then sew the bands side seams. You then layer the top over the bottom band and sew the hem in one -- catching both top and band.

Like so:

But in a slippery fabric? Oy! I spent a LONG time...a long time. I tried it 3 times. I tried Wonder Tape (which was a disaster). And then, I gave up.

Nope. Not revisiting this top. I will make the pattern again in something more stable (like a cotton lawn), but I am one of those who will toss it when it isn't working. I sew for fun, this top is no longer fun sewing!!!!

Notes:
1) NO FBA! Sue mentioned she never needs an FBA with SA patterns. This may prompt me to buy more of their tops! :)

2) Definitely need more room in the upper back.

3) Need a tad more hip room. My hip is 44" and so is the patterns.

4) Love the idea of the pockets but idk...Just probably not a great idea on a DD cup unless it's oversized.

5) Screw that bottom band instruction! Sorry. It was just insanely difficult. Next time I will do it "flat".

Before sewing front to back, I will fold up the hem and the band and 'hem' both front band back, and then sew the side seams. This will mean the top layer won't 'float' at the side seams but oh my gosh the headache I endured!!!

6) I was looking at their collar and thinking, Nope. And I just went back to Sue's review and she said she didn't use their collar and just made bias for the neckline. Yep. LOL! That's what I will do next time.


In other news...

My B5678 is finished and awaiting buttons and I think it's SO pretty!!! I cannot wait to wear this shirt!

The pretty scarf draped over was a $5 find at JC Penny! It may be more spring than fall/winter but it's pretty and it's blue!!!

Gail over at Today's Agenda is hosting a blazer sew-along using her TNT M6712. I have wanted to sew a blazer and get intimidated. I really do want to sew one and have a piece of fabric in stash that could serve as a great wearable muslin (e..g, I will actually muslin it but assuming v.1 isn't perfect, this fabric is wearable yet it isn't beloved).  I am thinking I might tackle it over the long Thanksgiving holiday.

I don't like cooking for Thanksgiving so I told my husband I will do on a year, off a year and this is my off year. We'll have dinner with family and I'll bake (I LOVE BAKING!) but this way I'll be free to relax a bit, and SEW! :)

In the meantime, I found a serviceable black blazer from the thrift store. The shoulders are a bit wide and the sleeves are too short, but otherwise I like the fit. It is an older style, I think you can tell, but I don't think it looks outdated. 

I don't know what the heck that face is but I decided it was worth publishing, as is! lol!!!

Luckily, rolled up sleeves are in.

WIPs and What Not

At the end of September, I had no definitive plans for October other than the Burda pants and Lekala jacket. But I can't sew any pants right now, as much as I want to.

I hate alterations. I know it's really whiny to complain about ripping out a few inches of stitches but MEH!!! With the exception of the very 1st pair I made, I need to take in all of my other V9032 trousers. Taking daily photos of my outfits has made this more important to me. I hate that my pants are droopy in the butt! I like my pants fitted, so this is not working.

As a palette cleanser (haha!) I cut out a pink version of B5678. Yes, a button-front shirt with collar and cuffs...Oy!  It's actually done now and awaiting buttons and buttonholes (I'm being gifted pretty shell buttons!); but I took this pic the other day and just never got around to writing this post until now.

My husband was genuinely disturbed by the color choice. He said I don't wear much pink and asked "But what will it go with?!". Oh boy...it will go with black, gray, tan, brown, blue, some prints...it will go! :)

As I neared the final stages of this, I was really uncertain of what to sew next. I'd posted this pic on IG for suggestions. 

Many suggested a jacket; but it's only 3 yards. And no way can I match the stripes on the front, sides, facings, sleeves...on a jacket with only 3 yards

Many others suggested a cape. I am not too into capes but even still, this is Minnesota! A cape will be good for about a few weeks at best. Then it won't be appropriate again until late April/early May. 

Husband suggested a skirt. I was sort of leaning towards a bias cut skirt or wrap skirt or something that breaks up the very regular plaid/stripes. 

I got the suggestion for a sheath and decided on that with New Look 6261 (made previously here)

This is only the front. He was adamantly shaking his head no. I told him that I like it, it's kind of preppy! He said, the preppy look is so 90s.

Oh boy.

THE 90s ARE BACK! Clearly he is not keeping up with fashion trends :-p

I've always like layered looks but always felt I was too columnar and too busty. But last year I started layering lightweight merino sweaters over my button fronts and loved it! So this is a trend I am kind of eager to try. And surprisingly, aside from 2 evening versions, I have no sheath dresses.

I was going to make this dress in navy before and something went wonky with the hips and I just hung it in the back of my closet and never finished it. But I have tried it on a couple times. I had almost decided to just finish this one, but I never staystitched the neck and armholes and they're probably all stretched out by now. Anyway, here is a version of B5678 under a version of NL6261

Looks better with the sleeves rolled up, IMO.

My sew-jo is on it's coffee break right now. Since the fabric is wool, I'll be lining it. I keep telling myself "all" I have to do is cut and sew the lining. And attach it. And insert the zipper. And hem it...and it'll be done. That's all. ;-)

We will see what, if any, sewing I get done this week!