I flat pattern measured. I tissue fit
I was focused on the bust and didn't realize how far "over" the neck extended.
Holy, too long shoulder! Yowza! A narrow shoulder adjustment was definitely in order.
That's a whole lotta excess sleeve width
I should have realized the sleeve would be difficult here...
I ended up taking a 3/4" narrow shoulder adjustment and adding 1/2" to the sleeve length. I also tapered the sleeve seam to remove some of the excess. I decided I didn't need an FBA but today after reading a lot about FBAs, I decided that while I didn't need anymore width I certainly could have used a little extra length to navigate the bust curve. You'll see that I have some pulling/diagonal wrinkles angling towards the bust.
In this post, I talked about some of the issues I was having with this jacket...the sleeves especially. I am so glad this fabric was so stable! I ripped and resewed a whole bunch of times. A WHOLE BUNCH!!! It is some bottom weight woven that has somewhat of a denim look, from FabricMart. Lining is 'blueberry' pongee, also from FabricMart. This jacket used 1.5 yards of each which is nice.
Swayback. yes. I know. I am eager to do my bodice sloper lesson with Louise Molin. I think I need a smaller back size with a swayback adjustment and broad back adjustment. All of that excess fabric isn't just due to swayback.
See the pull towards the bust?
The pattern instructions? Err. No. No thank you. I just did it. I used Grainline's tutorial for bagging a lining (here) and managed to screw that up eleventy times. The pulling through the sleeve is slick and I will definitely use that method for bagging jacket linings.
SO professional looking!
Don't look at my nails! LOL!
The way the lining in the sleeve works is genius! Ok, so you all probably already know this but I was AMAZED!
This stinking pattern did not include a facing for the back pattern piece and I could not wrap my head around taking the back piece and making a new lining piece and facing. It just wasn't working. I just sewed the facing/lining/jacket together...figuring the lining is so thin it wouldn't add bulk at the neckline. Careful trimming and clipping and it lies very nicely. I finished the facing with bias tape and stitched it down to the lining (before bagging).
The offensive sleeve
Blog readers: Do I add a closure or not??
In the works is a simple bias cut sleeveless shell. I need more of these. I get too hot (FAR TOO HOT) to wear long sleeves under a jacket/cardigan. But I love jackets and cardigans. So I need more sleeveless tops. I am bloated enough right now that this picture almost made me cry. The shirt is hanging in my closet until next week when I am less swollen. It needs the neckline and armholes finished with self fabric bias tape and boy is it short. But the fabric is GORGEOUS (a silk/cotton voile) and I hope that I do end up loving it!
aaaaaaaand!!!!!! Hint. Hint.