Sunday, January 26, 2014

Finished Item: B5927 - My First Lined Jacket!

 I was pretty excited bout this especially after S1699 was a wadder. This jacket is somewhat similar in style; a boxy, short jacket and I figured it would be a good start before making a more traditional blazer with notched collar/lapels.

I flat pattern measured. I tissue fit


I was focused on the bust and didn't realize how far "over" the neck extended. 

Holy, too long shoulder! Yowza! A narrow shoulder adjustment was definitely in order.


That's a whole lotta excess sleeve width

I should have realized the sleeve would be difficult here...

I ended up taking a 3/4" narrow shoulder adjustment and adding 1/2" to the sleeve length. I also tapered the sleeve seam to remove some of the excess. I decided I didn't need an FBA but today after reading a lot about FBAs, I decided that while I didn't need anymore width I certainly could have used a little extra length to navigate the bust curve. You'll see that I have some pulling/diagonal wrinkles angling towards the bust.

In this post, I talked about some of the issues I was having with this jacket...the sleeves especially. I am so glad this fabric was so stable! I ripped and resewed a whole bunch of times. A WHOLE BUNCH!!!  It is some bottom weight woven that has somewhat of a denim look, from FabricMart. Lining is 'blueberry' pongee, also from FabricMart. This jacket used 1.5 yards of each which is nice.


Swayback. yes. I know. I am eager to do my bodice sloper lesson with Louise Molin. I think I need a smaller back size with a swayback adjustment and broad back adjustment. All of that excess fabric isn't just due to swayback.


See the pull towards the bust? 


The pattern instructions? Err. No. No thank you. I just did it. I used Grainline's tutorial for bagging a lining (here) and managed to screw that up eleventy times. The pulling through the sleeve is slick and I will definitely use that method for bagging jacket linings.


SO professional looking!

Don't look at my nails! LOL!

The way the lining in the sleeve works is genius! Ok, so you all probably already know this but I was AMAZED!




This stinking pattern did not include a facing for the back pattern piece and I could not wrap my head around taking the back piece and making a new lining piece and facing. It just wasn't working. I just sewed the facing/lining/jacket together...figuring the lining is so thin it wouldn't add bulk at the neckline. Careful trimming and clipping and it lies very nicely. I finished the facing with bias tape and stitched it down to the lining (before bagging).

The offensive sleeve

The jacket is comfortable and I think I'll wear it. I do not think I'll touch this pattern again. Ever.


Blog readers: Do I add a closure or not??

In the works is a simple bias cut sleeveless shell. I need more of these. I get too hot (FAR TOO HOT) to wear long sleeves under a jacket/cardigan. But I love jackets and cardigans. So I need more sleeveless tops. I am bloated enough right now that this picture almost made me cry. The shirt is hanging in my closet until next week when I am less swollen. It needs the neckline and armholes finished with self fabric bias tape and boy is it short. But the fabric is GORGEOUS (a silk/cotton voile) and I hope that I do end up loving it!


aaaaaaaand!!!!!! Hint. Hint.


27 comments:

  1. Hahaha! I LOVE that last pic! Good for you!

    Great work on your jacket! I think it looks fantastic!

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    1. :-D I am making *something* from that dang magazine!!!

      Thanks Gail!

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  2. Great perseverance and nice jacket! I need to make lots of those sleeveless shells too, but they are not very exciting so it is hard to make myself do it.

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    1. Thanks Angela! So true. They are not the most rewarding projects but definitely useful!

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  3. You did a super job! At least you decided to remove the sleeve cap pleats before making it as I didn't.

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    1. Thanks Dorothy! This is actually a different pattern. I scrapped the Simplicity one

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  4. That jacket is beautiful! I really like the neck binding.
    I can't believe you've been sewing only a year! Your work is gorgeous and you sew lined jackets without reading the pattern?!

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  5. Lining a jacket is always tricky and requires more perseverance, fortitude and chocolate than sewing expertise.
    We are talking about the button definition of closures? I'd suggest a chain or the loopy knot button things that you see on cheongsams. Just the one, at the top.
    Congratulations are in order!

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    1. Definitely more chocolate. But not tequila. Tequila will sway your results ;-)

      Oooh, those loopy knots are pretty cute. Thanks Accordion!

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  6. Love the jacket. Great job on the lining and the neck facing and especially the neck binding.

    I may have missed it but did you take any training on how to make the jacket(s)?

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    1. also thanks for that video link. I will need it very soon!

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    2. Thanks DaResInt1! No, no training. Just head butting my table. I think I am developing a pretty strong intuition about putting things together. And this had nothing "different" about it really, that would cause it to be difficult to put together. I did miss the step where it said to topstitch the front where the lower and upper part meet...but my topstitching isn't so great so I don't miss it.

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  7. Fabulous! Great job on the lining too.

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  8. I vote no closure, I like the jacket how it is! love the purple lining

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  9. Your jacket is lovely! I am still amazed at your productivity, and beautiful results. Keep up the good work!

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  10. great job! I' working on linning a jacket as well, & so need to investagate the sway back tutorials lol!
    Helen

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    1. Thanks Nana! Good luck! I need to look into the swayback adjustments too!!

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  11. oh I love your lining, oh and I vote not closure

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    1. Thanks Seronda!! The lining makes me happy!

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  12. I am impressed by how nicely done your work is and the time you take to research and find help when needed. I am working on trying to stop and go look for information on how to do something better rather than charging on. Your jacket looks nice on you!

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    1. Thanks Laura! I am good about getting help. Otherwise things would die a sad death!

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  13. Hi there,
    I was just reading the responses here and was flabbergasted to read that you'd only been sewing for one year!! Good for you - I've been sewing for over 50, and you could probably teach me a thing or two :-) After every week-end I look for your posts to see what you've made for the week. I do sew a lot but just cannot figure out how to post the pictures of my stuff so never do the reviews. I would really like to though!
    Anyway thanks for all your reviews on PR and keep up all the great garment sewing!

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!