Wednesday, December 31, 2014

UPDATE: Style Arc Sandra Muslin

WAIT!!!! I got PR's member of the year for 2014!!!! YAY!!!!



Anyway... :)

I realized I was talking myself out of making these jeans and decided there was absolutely NO reason to be scared of jeans! So I decided that today was the day, and I went for it!

I decided on a size 16 based on the size chart and finished measurements. I hemmed and hawed over whether or not I should try to make adjustments to start but decided I should just muslin the pattern as-is since I've never sewn jeans.

Well, I made ONE adjustment; I knew not to trust those back pocket placement marks! However, after making them up, they need to be brought in closer to the center.



pretty perfect pockets! I have to find the link I use for making perfect pointed pockets...


I used the vertical placement of these jeans as a guide but didn't pay attention to the horizontal placement


Excuse my ragged self! LOL! 


Need to remove a small wedge from CF



The thighs were tight. I need to give myself more thigh room which I assume will eliminate some of those lines (right? RIGHT?!?!)



Did you see the wavy yoke in the above photo? yeah, I need to take a couple tucks out of the yoke.




RTW jeans which are admittedly a little too snug, but the wrinkles from butt to knee are almost non-existent while the back knee wrinkles are present. I've seen these on a lot of RTW and handmade jeans and wonder if it's just a need for extra fabric to sit down.

***************

Following the advice I've received so far (here and on IG!), I did a couple things...

L is completely right that you can't judge the fit completely without a waistband!! So I attached it and still had gaping. I took two 1/2" darts from the waistband and yoke and MUCH better.

Then I played around with the seam allowances.

I let the thighs out a little (this pattern has 1 cm seam allowance so about .39" so there wasn't much extra room). Well they looked even baggier. So then I went and took the sa to 1/2" from crotch to knee and pinned out a fish-eye dart (all changes to left leg only)


So then I let the SA back out to the smaller seam allowance. I kept taking larger fish-eye darts until I realized those remaining under-butt wrinkles  may be due to needing a bit of an extension of the crotch point in back.



So now I'm thinking smaller fish-eye dart (like pic #1) but slightly larger seam allowance for a closer fit on the leg.

What say you?!? :)

51 comments:

  1. I think those jeans are pretty good for a first attempt. Not sure how to fix the wrinkles - a problem lots of us seem to have.

    Congrats on being member of the year. And, Happy New Year for next year:)

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  2. Congrats on PR Member of The Year! It's well deserved. Your jeans look great. Kudos to you for getting such a nice fit on your first try with this pattern. You're motivating me to try out my Jalie jeans pattern as it has sat in the stash long enough.

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    1. Thank you!!

      I have that one too!!! I have to keep searching for a stretch denim without tons of lycra.

      Delete
  3. I'm not surprised about member of the year, congratulations! I think you must have a clone to help you sew all these projects...

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    1. :-D Thanks!!

      I would share my sewing elves but they are way too loyal :-p

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  4. You know I will be the first to tell you not to be afraid of making jeans! Before you make any changes to the yoke, put on the waistband!! You won't have an accurate idea of the fit without it.

    As for the leg wrinkles, try sewing with a smaller seam allowance first. If they're still there, you might have too much length (like in the front) instead of not enough width. You can take a horizontal tuck straight across and then add that amount back at the hem to keep the side seam lengths the same.

    Finally I saw that you made member of the year. Congratulations!

    Now what are we doing about that yoke again?? =)

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    1. I put on the waistband!!!! hahaha! And I don't know whey I was talking myself out of making jeans. It's actually pretty gratifying. Even though I just used regular thread here and not topstitching thread I am loving the little details. Almost over-eager to make my actual pair and have secured (haha!) another cut of denim and was SMART and ordered lots and lots of rivets!

      Delete
  5. You butt looks pretty fabulous. And, congrats on member of the year!

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  6. Nice job, as always and congrats on being member of the year!!!!

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  7. Looking good so far! Please explain the "remove wedge from cf". I'm working on the Style Arc Sammi pants and I have the same problem. I am a pants-sewing newbie.

    Also, congratulations! It is well deserved.

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    1. http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/Pants-Front-Crotch-Fit.html

      I can never find a link...

      Basically slash from center front to the side seam creating a hinge. Overlap the pattern by the amount needed and true the crotch curve.

      Most of the tutorials have you add it back to the side seam. BUT I never do. I think I am really tilted and just removing the wedge works well.

      For the back it's the opposite. Well, same slash to the side seam but instead of overlapping, you open it, filling in with paper. Like I said, I usually need to remove 3/4" from the front and add 1" to the back.

      Delete
  8. NAKISHA CONGRATULATIONS!!!! How exciting to be member of the YEAR!!! Woot woot!
    Your jeans are looking good! I have some of the same problems with sewing my own jeans and I wonder if part of it is the fabric? It seems like the denim from RTW is so much heavier and I have to assume it alters the fit?

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    1. Thanks Sue!!!!

      I think fabric can play a huge role! This twill is pretty thick/stiff and the denim I have is fairly heavy. I also think in the dark denim any wrinkles that may be remaining will be less noticeable.

      ALSO :) SR Harris has selvedge denim for around $7.50/yd (but it's only 31-32" so you need several yards). I think I'm going to buy a few cuts when my sewing budget is renewed ;-)

      Delete
  9. Congratulations on being PR member of the year it's well deserved

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  10. Congratulations! You are an amazing seamstress. Those are a wonderful first attempt at jeans -- I am still nervous about denim. Gonna start small with denim stretch leggings....

    Happy New Year!

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    1. Thanks so much Annie!! It's scary to start but then it's like AMAZING!!!! I'M MAKING JEANS!!!!!! LOL!

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  11. excellent first muslin on those jeans! I'm afraid of starting a pair myself. I have the Jalie pattern and I should just get to it like you are! Congrats on the member of the year!

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    1. Thanks Kristin! I'd like to sew my Jalies too! I bought them *very* shortly after I started sewing! Crazy lady... :)

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  12. Congrats on being the PR member of the year. WooHoo!!

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  13. Congrats on PR member of the year!

    I rarely comment but had to offer a suggestion on the jeans. Some of those back leg wrinkles are there for a reason. As in if you remove too many of them the jeans are very, very uncomfortable to sit in! Ask me how I know. I suggest that you sew in all the changes that you have pinned in on both sides of the pants. Wear them for a good length of time. Sit, stand, bend etc. and then reevaluate the fit. You may decide to put some of the wrinkles back. : )

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    1. Thanks Debbie! Agreed! I get that zero wrinkles = great looking if you're standing stock still! ;-)

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  14. I just happened to have watched Peggy wagers on jeans. Google fit2stitch jeans ad you should find the you tube video. Congrats on pr member of the year!

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    1. Thanks for that link! That was VERY helpful!!!

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  15. The Peggy Sagers' jean video is very good, and you might find helpful. Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KH3CQW3dj4Q

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    1. It was VERY good and super helpful!

      Delete
    2. I feel like all I did this year was sew jeans and stare at photos of my backside refining the fit. Knee wrinkles! Stuck on them!

      Truly want to thank you all for this video link, and will spend that time instead of making dinner for my teen kids. Hey, they can feed themselves!

      Delete
  16. Congrats on Member of the Year.. [Most deserving person..]
    jeans are looking good.. Cant help you on the wrinkles, I have never made jeans..
    scared of them.lol
    Happy New Year.

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  17. I think that muslin is a great start on your jeans. Like someone else said, you need some of those wrinkles in back to be able to comfortable sit down. Other than that, I think that the alterations that you're talking about making will give you a really good fitting pair of jeans. :)

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  18. Congrats on PR MOTY. That's a big honor and you totally deserve it!
    As for the jeans, you probably need to scoop the crotch a bit more to get rid of the wrinkles directly under your bum. I'm not so sure about the ones on your leg.

    Have you ever seen the book "Pants for Real People"? There are NO wrinkles ANYWHERE on any of the pants or jeans. None! Somehow the authors of that book perform magic, magic that I have been unable to attain.

    also you made your jeans in white denim; in regular blue or black denim they would be less noticeable.

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    1. Thanks Kyle!!

      That Peggy Sagers vid was so super helpful and I was able to cut my fashion fabric today after making a few more tweaks!

      Delete
  19. p.s. if you enroll in either Angela Wolf's Craftsy jeans class or Jennifer Stern's PR jeans class, they will help you fit them.

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  20. You are firing on all cylinders!

    Awesome looking jeans, look infowar to seeing them in denim. Congrats on the SPR gong too.

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  21. Congrats on being member of the year on PR!

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  22. You are pretty awesome! Congrats on being the PR Member of the Year!

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  23. Congratulations again! Despite the items you addressed, I think those jeans are looking pretty darn good for your first try!! You should be patting yourself on the back right about now!! All of the little changes to perfect your fit I agree with. Only YOU know what looks good on you! Good luck and let us see the final look.

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