Thursday, March 19, 2015

Finished: Butterick 6169

Nope, I didn't think I would make a lined jacket right after making a lined coat either...I am SUCH a glutton for punishment! I did make that little knit top in between...

ANYWAY :)

I have wanted this simple kind of asymmetrical zip moto-inspired jacket for a good, long while. There was Burda 3/2012  that was almost there (not asymmetrically zipped). The infamous Style Arc Ziggi (collared and too outerwear-y) and Kwik Sew 3764 (collared)...the "ehhh...maybe" Simplicity 2056 (collared, outerwear-y)...The new Burda young 6800 (so much collar)...

So many not.quite.right. options. (I'm being super dramatic, I know)




And then I saw the Butterick pattern and said, YES! Yes, that's it!

And then I cleaned out my closet and knew I needed a gray cardigan or jacket. And then I found this extremely lightweight wool in my stash (purchased from a Spot the Bolt! sale at Hancock I believe). And THEN I found this white zipper with silver (nickel?) teeth. Ah yes. Yes please!

I am on a slow decline (wrt my weight) and decided to go for a snug fit now -- e.g., wearable over sleeveless tops (woven or knit) or close fitting knit tops with sleeves -- and decidedly more 'jacket like' 10-15 lbs from now.

I cut a size 14:
finished bust of 42.5" (just barely 3" of ease)
finished waist of 39" (mine is 34")

Miraculously, the fullness of the bust was in the right spot (I usually have to lower it) and the shoulder wasn't insanely wide (usually have to narrow it!)

I sewed the seams between the front and middle front at 1/2" and I did a 1/2" swayback adjusment.

The sleeve width was 14.5" and 15" is more appropriate so I did a full bicep adjustment using the Fit for Real People method of slash/spread on the upper sleeve only. YAY ME!

Scored a hardcover version of the book on 
PR classifieds!

I should have measured where the jacket would hit (high-ish hip) but didn't, so I ended up sewing the side seams at 5/8" tapering to 3/8" after the waistline.

The sleeves are pretty much the perfect length so if you've got short arms, make sure you check that.

Hmm...other things I love:
  • There's a back facing - THANK YOU
  • There's a separate pattern piece for the back lining that has additional ease built in and ease pleats - YAY!!!!!
  • You're instructed to cut the lining pieces slightly shorter (I usually do this anyway)
  • wool. Sew all the things in nice, well-behaved woven fabrics like wool, cotton, linen or blends of these. Goodness gracious <3
Things that made me sad:
  • Oh.my.gosh. You are to assemble the jacket and lining and join them. Then attach the sleeve lining to the sleeve and do some crazy slip-stitch madness. I don't even KNOW what they were saying because I was all 'AIN'T NOBODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!' in my head.
  • The tiniest, useless pockets in the history of all the world.
Things I did differently:
  • Interfaced the hem (jacket and sleeve hems) to get a nice, crisp finish
  • Made my own shoulder pads
  • Bagged my lining (so sorry, so lazy for miles of slipstitching)

And now I've got a moto-jacket of AWESOMENESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you follow me on Instagram you have been subjected to half a dozen in-progress photos :) Aaaaaaand now a ton more! haha!





Absolutely LOVE it


The back unzipped


The back, zipped. See how it doesn't quite fit around my high hip? it's okay...


On Lily


It's so cute zipped!


My hand is all the way in the pocket. They're SO tiny.


Nice and tucked away zipper


I couldn't get this side as crisp as I'd like.


I used a matching lining! :GASP: 

Here I tried it on over this oversized shirt and it still fit but boy was it snug! LOL!



It was also pretty cute over a dress, with workwear and now I want a floral one!!! **What would one line stretch cotton sateen with??

I also sewed 2 tops today  (V1436 and Burda 6911) that need the last bits of finishing so hopefully this weekend I can get them done and photographed!!

Yes, I am now done with 4 of my list of 10! lol! I have also changed my wardrobe (of course) so now only 1 top from the list needs to be held out until after April 1.



31 comments:

  1. You are a machine! So productive! That is incredibly cute, I love everything about it. Great job!

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  2. Great little jacket - it's not too moto, if you know what I mean. I just love the collarless version at the bottom. Not sure what you line stretch cotton sateen with, but I would look for a stretch lining. They are available, I'd do a search.

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  3. Now that looks gorgeous! Pattern in stash already I really want to try it one day.

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  4. That looks awesome, I have the kwik sew one in my queue and keep on meaning to sew it!
    I generally line stretch sateen with stretch poplin but that's in dresses, I haven't made a jacket out of it yet, I suppose it depends on how much of the stretch you want to retain?

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  5. So impressive - what a great jacket. I really like the asymmetrical style.

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  6. Very nice jacket and the fit looks great. I can see why you love it!

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  7. Oh, this is lovely. I've been eyeing up this pattern and seeing your finished jacket makes me definitely want it for myself.

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  8. Lovely! I have this pattern...do you think it would work in leather?! Anyway, don't know if you have ever noticed but at least what I have seen...when you buy ponte Blazers they are never liked with stretch lining but just regular lining. Just saying. In the past I have used pongee to line things that need stretch but I don't know if it's slippy enough for a jacket. You can get stretch charmeuse though or stretch satin?

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  9. great outfit, love the jacket. such motivation.

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  10. great outfit, love the jacket. such motivation.

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  11. Nice. Glad you love it. Well done for your weight loss; I'm stuck. I envy you your hardcover RFFRP! I'm thinking about the Islander jacket, because I have the pattern, but like the idea of this one with pattern for lining too. Mm

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  12. Nice. Glad you love it. Well done for your weight loss; I'm stuck. I envy you your hardcover RFFRP! I'm thinking about the Islander jacket, because I have the pattern, but like the idea of this one with pattern for lining too. Mm

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  13. So cute and your review of "things that make me sad" gave me a good chuckle. Thanks for the informative review and I love those spot the bolt sales at Hancock.

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  14. Just perfect! You inspire me to be more productive.

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  15. This is absolutely fabulous!

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  16. Cotton sateen has so much body, would you have to line it? Maybe you could just finish all the facing pieces on your serger...if not, there was several rayon jerseys at SR that were maybe slippery enough to be a lining.

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  17. Fantastic! I want one!!! Perfect for a light layer in spring... if it comes ever.

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  18. So. Fantastic!! I've enjoyed watching you progress through this one. I was on the fence about this pattern, but now I know I need it :-)

    I made a stretch twill jacket a couple weeks ago, and bought stretch woven lining from my local (independent) fabric store. I wasn't sure such a thing existed, but it does!

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  19. It really looks nice! Glad you are happy with the finished work. I do have a similar pattern that I've not made.

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  20. Great Jacket and awesome sauce on the details.

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  21. Great job! A round of applause for you.

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  22. Cute! Cute! Cute! I love the look of your white zipper on they gray wool!

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  23. fantastic job, zipper & all!

    Helen

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  24. The coat looks great but you are looking fabulous these days!! Glad the right pattern finally came along and I'm so jealous you got a hardcover of ffrp. Now if they could make one hardcover spiral bound I'd be in heaven!

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  25. Omg! That is such a cute jacket! I just got the pattern and after seeing yours, I absolutely have to add it to my wardrobe! Thanks for the inspiration!

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  26. Nice! Did you bag the lining? or follow the directions? Bagging is so much easier, IMO and it sounds like this was a good candidate. Keep up the great work!

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  27. Your jacket turned out great!! I'm totally bummed that I missed the last Butterick sale... I have the perfect piece of wool for such a jacket. I enjoyed watching it come together on IG!

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  28. you've been extremely busy, love everything you've made.

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