Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Simplicity 2508 In Progress

So as to not have a HUGE post when the coat is done...

As mentioned before, these PR patterns are pretty crazy with their fabric reqs. I had 3 yards of this coating and was prepared to make the shorter "jacket", but after laying everything out, I had "a ton" of leftover fabric.


Was this alarming? Nope.

Should it have been? Sorta.

Instagram to the rescue! Someone mentioned I might want to double check for pieces cut multiple times. I checked and "only" the sleeve tabs...

1) Until I decided to construct the lining first. HOLY #&*$! I almost forgot about the front piece being cut twice. WHEW!!!

I decided to be smart, and cut the pieces pretty much as I needed them, so I wouldn't have to keep track of everything.

2) Well I was all "Oooh! I can get a belt too!" Well no, no you can't...not when you haven't cut out your collar pieces and yokes. OY! :)

3) Lastly, I screwed up on the yokes but luckily the back yoke is cut 1 and the front yokes are small. I re-cut them without incident.

I mentioned before that I wasn't tailoring it. Okay...well maybe a little. I knew my piddly machine would NOT make buttonholes on this fabric nicely so I decided to make bound buttonholes! Yes, that is how my mind works. There was no thought that this is "more advanced" and I was totally afraid of welts until now. (kind of like how I jumped in to fly zippers but was scared of lapped zippers. Rational? No. No it is not.)


It took 4 attempts to figure out WHAT to do...


The next attempt after that was satisfactory!

I used the tutorial from Iconic patterns (here). I like the separate welts and it worked a treat. I could NOT get even stitching with 1/8" welt lips. I had to go up to 1/4". I'm happy with them.

I made windows in the facings per Julia Bobbin's tutorial (here). The gist is the same HOWEVER, Iconic patterns gives you a line to stitch over, making it almost fool proof. So fantastic.


At some point, my fabric decided to revolt against the Chaco liner. As a result, buttonhole 3 is a little bigger and buttonhole 4 is a little smaller. Shhhhhh. Don't tell anyone.

I know you guys are probably no longer surprised by anything here but I am definitely shocked I got this done so fast! 

I did sew more often than I normally do; I rarely sew on Friday's and I was working on it Friday evening. I also spent HOURS (like 3.5) working on it Sunday; Sunday afternoon, the coat was taking up space EVERYWHERE! LOL!

fronts and back

collar and yoke

poor pattern pieces

lining

It was getting hectic! Haha! I had to take a break from it! Since then I've been employing the 'bits and pieces' approach.

Monday morning I pressed two seams that I'd sewn. I did a lot Monday evening. Tuesday morning I sewed the lining fronts to the coat and hand basted the neckline (it's super bulky so I wanted to baste first).

Remaining work: I need to understitch the facing, sew the neckline, sew the hem (bottom and sleeve hem), press the bejeebers out of it and sew on the buttons. I am using Grainline's bagged lining tutorial so I leave the sleeve seam open to turn the coat. 


Thoughts so far:

  • Ridiculously small pocket; I used another pattern's pocket
  • Pockets are too low for me. I thought it was fine when I marked the location on the lining. They need to move up like a full 1-1.5" on the next version(s).
  • Welts too wide. I will narrow them a bit for next time.
  • Sleeve tabs seem high. Will decide if they need to be moved on future versions as I wear it.
  • Extra roomy sleeves. As someone with large biceps I know I shouldn't complain...I feel like I need to shave some width off for future versions. Will make that call as I actually wear it/live in it.
  • The right side really does seem to want to "swing" forward more. I only put it on briefly this morning though. Will have to investigate that more tonight.
  • LOVE the collar - it's so cute :)
  • The length is absolutely perfect for my 5'5" self.
  • Sleeve length is perfect (beware if you're long!)
  • I need to lower the bust point 1" (I thought I had excess fabric below the yoke...no just curved in the wrong place for me). I don't know how I missed that. It's almost always a given that I have to lower princess seam bust points.
  • Had to sew 1/2" front and side seams (for an extra 1". I'll do a small FBA too).
  • Lastly, the fabric isn't so hot (I bought it awhile ago so hadn't yet grasped fabric quality). There were soooo many imperfections in it and some of them I couldn't work around. So I might not have as long a love affair with this coat as originally intended. However, the process was totally worth it and all in I paid around $20 to construct (like, fabric, lining, buttons, interfacing, thread, everything). I will not complain :)

Hope to finish up by Wednesday/Thursday but probably won't get photos of the completed coat til the weekend.

37 comments:

  1. I love it so far. And the color is going to look divine on you.

    These coat/jacket patterns are insanity. I did the mini blazer for my son, and hoo boy, there was a ridiculous number of pattern pieces for one little boy's garment. On the positive side, hey, it got done, so I guess that means I can now make one for me! LOL.

    Can't wait to see it all finished.

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  2. What a nice color! It looks awesome. So curious about the final look!

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  3. I agree that it's looking great so far! I'm hesitant with welts, too. It seems like I usually get a pretty decent-looking first one, but then the second one ends up wonky (assuming that I'm doing two pockets).

    For fly zippers, I was intimidated until I found a set of instructions that made everything "click". Now I'm not afraid of them any more. I still can't figure out a lapped zipper, though, either--so you're not alone there.

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    1. Thank you!! I did ONE good lapped zipper; on my daughter's mint-green dress, and none have been as nice since. Go figure.

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  4. Welts look great. I tend to be a jump in and learn as I go along sort of person too. Won't take long now to get the rest done via the bits and pieces approach.

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    1. Thanks! You were right; it moved along fast!!

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  5. looking fabulous already. And wit woo, check out those bound buttonholes...! :)

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  6. Very nicely done. Love your buttonholes.

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  7. Great progress. You've done so well timeless. Coats can take a zillion months to complete.

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    1. Thanks Faye!! I knew this one would be 'quick & dirty' and the next one will take a bit more time.

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  8. My gawdd! This is going to be fab-u-lous!!!!!!!!!!

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  9. The coat already looks good! It's going to be just amazing when it's done.

    Summer

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  10. Your buttonholes look good and those buttons will detract and hide the subtle discrepancies. I think coats are one of the most satisfying bits of sewing we can do. You seem to be enjoying the process despite your challenges. CWTS this.

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    1. Thank you Bunny! Now, I cannot wait to make coat #2!

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  11. Nice job! Love this color. It will be perfect for Spring.

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    1. Thank you! YES! I am so excited to wear it!

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  12. I think you've done an awesome job so far, I can't wait to see it thoroughly pressed and on.

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    1. Thanks SewNewbie!! I was running around in it this morning when DH informed me that it was -2 outside and so I should wear my heavy coat. Booooo! :)

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  13. Looking fantastic..You did an amazing job on the welt button holes.. Congrats on mastering another thing..
    I love the color too.. happy sewing and I look forward to seeing the completed project.

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  14. It's looking great. Love the bound buttonholes.

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  15. Awesome buttonholes, lovely coat. SEWN!

    Are you really making another one anytime soon? I reckon I can do one lined jacket every three years - at best!

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    1. SEWN!!! LOL!

      I want the shorter jacket with the ruffly sleeves. Oy! And I hate my current winter coat. I purchased it for warmth when I worked on campus at the U and had to trek to and from. Now that I primarily go house-garage-car-work I want a nice warm coat that is a bit more stylish!

      I hope to sew that in September/October!

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  16. I might need to research the bound buittonholes, never now when I might need to learn something new lol! it's looking good & you're coming along nicely, we're cheering you on, you can do it!

    Helen

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    1. Thank you! I was so excited that I talked myself into doing them!!

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  17. You make all the challenges seem small with every success along the way.

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  18. I have done exactly the same thing and forgotten to cut the front piece of a coat 4 times, unfortunately for me I realised after I cut it all out and long after I could get any more fabric. Glad your instagram followers saved you! The coat is coming along nicely - and fast!

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  19. Great coat! If you didn't tell anyone this was your first time making bound buttonholes, no one would ever know! You did a great job!

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