Thursday, March 5, 2015

Patience is not MY virtue; Simplicity 2508 Finished!

In my last post  I talked about the initial process; tutorial for bound buttonholes and bagging the lining, etc.

Technical recap:
Size 16 (44.5" finished bust; I am around 39.5")
Adjustments; sewed 1/2" seams on front princess and side seams
100% wool coating in magenta from Hancock Fabrics
100% polyester pongee lining fabric in baby pink from FabricMart
Bound buttonholes tutorials by Iconic Patterns and Julia Bobbin.
Bagging the lining tutorial by Grainline Studios

(Need: small FBA, shift bust point down 1", lenghten sleeve 1/2", raise pockets 3/4-1", back facing)

Yep; this is kind of a LOOK AT MY NEW COAT!!!!!! photo dump.

But each pic has something to say!!! :)


Lining is baby pink poly pongee from Fabric Mart



I am in love with this collar. Like, it's SO cute!!!  Next time I will draft a back facing. Having it lined to the neckline is just weird.

I did triple stitch for all of my top stitching so some of those curves were hard to navigate (like on the front yoke!) but it helps it stand out nicely.



The bound buttonholes. Swoon. They make me happy. I found it VERY hard to transfer the exact location/shape/size of the buttonhole to the facing to make the windows. Need to do more research on how to do that cleanly.

Also, try as I might, I couldn't get all of the silk organza to turn to the inside (a peek of that is in the pic below).

The welts are basically just flaps?? The pocket is constructed like a normal in-seam pocket and the welt is caught between the front and pocket lining. After stitching the pocket closed, turn it all out, press it well and topstitch to the side front piece.



Again, the curves were hard to top-stitch and next time I might just square them off. BUT it was really hard to turn these things right side out! Oy!!



This photo is MUCH more true to the actual fabric color. It's a really deep, rich pink.



To ensure the light pink lining didn't peek out of the yokes, I used a dark berry lining. This is the lining I'd originally set aside for this coat but the color was just off enough that it clashed rather than coordinate or contrast. But for the underside of the yokes; it works.


Uhmm, I have no pics without my hands in my pockets. Too excited. LOL!




When Scandal goes off I'm going to press it again so it's nice and crisp.



Pretty cute buttoned up too! I mean, is that collar not SUPER CUTE?!?! And OMG the length! It's perfect!

In this pic you can see the princess seam fullness is too high. I'll definitely move the bust point down for future versions.


That's my "I'm stoked!" face! If I could be wearing it right now while I eat popcorn and type, I totally would. (I think the last button needs to be like a smidge (is that a word?) lower!)



Side view. I have *very* slight shift in hem from front to back. I ended up sewing the princess seams and side seams at 1/2" for a total of 1" additional room. So this is why I think I'll do a little FBA when I adjust the bust point.

Notes from my earlier post;
the sleeve tabs are NOT too high. They are fine.
There is  NOT too much sleeve ease.
The pockets ARE too low.
The sleeves are *just* right for me. I will be adding 1/2" to the pattern.

Other notes:

I do not own a clapper but even the random piece of pine that I use for setting snaps helped a ton for flattening seams. I had to apply some pressure but it really did help.

I saw lots of suggestions to interface the entire front and I didn't. My front right piece (with the buttonholes) grew over an inch!!! OH MY GOSH. I don't remember if there was a suggestion to stay-stitch but next time I'll either be sure I stay-stitch through the body or interface the entire front piece.

I'm on the fence if I should top-stitch the coat fronts. I feel like it doesn't need it but I get happy when I look at the collar and welts with their top-stitching!!! :)

Tomorrow it'll be about 12 degrees F when I head out for work--I'm wearing it!

81 comments:

  1. That coat looks GREAT! LOVE the color and the flaps! I have made this before in brown corduroy with the tabs but not the flaps. I like your bound buttonholes too. Hmmmm....I might need to make another one!

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    1. I bet if you look at your blog stats you'll see a bunch of views from "Simplicity 2508" as a search term! HAHAHAHA!!!!

      Thanks Kyle!

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  2. Amazing job. I love love love your buttonholes. Great color. YAY!!

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  3. Ooh ooh ooh! Gorgeous coat and perfect fit! I want one! I have trouble picking out the bust fullness issue even with you having pointed it out.

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    1. Thanks Michelle! Totally probably one of those things where it's GLARING to me but in reality...meh. :)

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  4. Oh-Oh-Oh it's magic! Girl, now you know you can turn out fabric in the blink of an eye! I'm just amazed how fast you do this--and do it well! It's beautiful, Nakisha!

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    1. HA! Thank you!!!

      Even my husband was surprised at how fast this one happened ;-)

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  5. Great job, perfect, wonderful color!!

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  6. Effin awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  7. I am just amazed.This coat is PERFECT!!!!!!!!!! I love it.. I want one too.
    You did an amazing job.. I so understand ,why you look so happy in the photos..
    enjoy your new coat...

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  8. Just as I expected! It turned out great and you look soooooo happy!

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  9. Wow I have given up on coat making but maybe that was too soon.. that's a gorgeous coat on you!

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    1. Don't give up! DO it!!! :) Thanks Ali!

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  10. The coat looks great - no wonder you look so happy. Topstitching always make a coat, and I love your contrast buttons. Smart, snappy, chic and cheerful - what is there not to love about it. Enjoy wearing it :)

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  11. I love it! The color, the buttonholes, the collar and sleeve tabs, the fit.....wear it with pride and happiness:)

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    1. Thank you! I just want to go to all the places in my new coat! haha!

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  12. Oh, it's so perfect, so awesome. *swoon*
    Everything about this coat is a win.

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  13. Gorgeous coat, so professionally made. You are such a fast sewer, it would've taken me ages to make something like this

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  14. Beautiful coat. I'm so impressed with the speed that you seem to turn these garments out. All the special details are lovely and I can see why you are so happy.

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    1. Thank you so much! I was actually surprised at the speed that this one came out of the sewing room. Started Thursday, finished Tuesday.

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  15. Beautiful! You have made yourself one good looking and happy coat!

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  16. Wow! Amazing, just totally amazing!

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  17. Gorgeous! I love all the details and the colour is to die for.

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  18. Great colour on you. Love all the details. Its amazing how quickly you make your clothing. Im in awe.

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  19. Gorgeous coat - love the colour and the way you've tackled all the little details even though it was tricky (bound buttonholes etc)

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  20. Fantastic coat, and I just LOVE the colour on you!

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  21. Just beautiful caot! No wonder you are pleased with it! And that colour!

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  22. Beautiful! Love the triple stitched topstitching and those gorgeous bound buttonholes.

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  23. Wow, this coat is beautiful and your workmanship is perfect. I love the color on you too!

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  24. You are an amazing sewer. Someone told me to ge t bound buttonholes all the same size, count the stitches as you sew. Yours are perfect your way.

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  25. Oh so pretty! Congratulations :)

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  26. Gorgeous! I never noticed this pattern before but I love the storm flaps and that it's not double breasted. The colour and the buttonholes are perfect.

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    1. Thanks! You could totally knock this out! :) You made me want the Quart coat so I might have to add that one for next fall! :)

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  27. I think that is just about the most adorable coat I have ever seen and I am so impressed by your mad skills! I hope to one day hone my abilities to try such an undertaking. It truly is a magnificent coat and it looks lovely on you.

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  28. Gorgeous! The color is beautiful on you. Love it!

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    1. Thank you Meigan!

      (things I am proud of: I automatically say "Mee-gan" in my head!)

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  29. Fabulous, gorgeous and beautifully put together. In fact: SEWN! (That is never going to get old!)

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  30. What an amazing job you have made of your coat. It's lush in every way. The contrast lining totally makes it :)x

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  31. Your coat is vibrant and beautifully made! Fabulous job!

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  32. Your coat is vibrant and beautifully made! Fabulous job!

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  33. Gorgeous coat! You did a wonderful job on you coat!

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  34. That looks great! I love the color and all the details.

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  35. Oh that fabric is luscious! You made an amazing coat. Well done.

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  36. Magenta!!! It is awesome and the coat looks amazing on you! You did some beautiful work on this. Using the triple stitch for the topstitching-- very smart! It looks super crisp. So many great details.

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  37. Awesome! The color, the construction details... All of it is really fantastic.

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  38. This color is gorgeous. Of course I would like it, since it's my favorite color. Your enthusiasm for this project makes me smile.

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  39. Love, love, LOVE this coat. The color alone screams fabulousness. The fit in the back is just WOW. What ever happened with the sleeve lining issue? Very nice job!

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    1. Thank you! I have been wearing it every.chance.I.get! :)

      Uhmm...me being me, I said "screw it". It only looks weird when the sleeve is hanging straight. On my body?? It's not visible! And it isn't pulling on the inside. Sooooo ;-)

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  40. Ok, this coat is super stellar. It looks great on you and the color is so perfect!! Great job with all the work ;-)

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!