I finished a cardigan and was having a hell of a time with the sweater knit and my buttonhole foot. I tried lots of things and was thinking of doing them by hand but nope. It's gonna go to my newfound seamstress lady. I'll just pay to get them done because I've mentally moved on from the project; but I want it finished! So full review to come - soon hopefully!
Alright; the point of the post!
I was all ga-ga over so many of the new McCall's and picked up a whole bunch of them. I knew that M7244 would get itself bumped way up on the list.
As I said in my planning post, I really need solid color work dresses. I decided on this merlot ponte from Fabric Mart. It's one of their mid/lightweights which I find perfect for dresses (and cardigans and skirts).
This pattern has a lined bodice which I did not realize at first. Because I am on a serious fabric fast, I trolled the stash for something to line it with and chose a mesh! It was a really good idea and I love that the inside of the dress is crazy :)
I should have cut a size 14 and did an FBA. But did I do that? No. No I did not. I did a 14 neckline/shoulder and graded to a 16 for the rest.
Finished measurements on the 16 are: 40 1/2 / 35 / 44 1/2. So just a tiny bit of positive ease at all points compared to my measurements (I am around 39.5"/34"/44")
Flat pattern adjustments:
1" length added to upper portion
1/2" swayback
1/2" bicep
Shortened the sleeves ~4"
Other adjustments:
I took the shoulder seam up an extra 1/4"
took the shoulder/sleeve in an extra 1/8"
Eliminated the zipper
Next time:
Nip the waist a bit
DO the FBA, I don't need much, but just a bit
Take a horizontal tuck on front between the shoulder and bust
Debating if I want to add more length. I don't want to change the proportions too much.
I think the boots make it look even shorter!
Maybe it won't look so short when it's cold and I have on tights!! :)
I think some of the wrinkles are more to the fact that I lengthened the actual pattern
but not the lining pattern :-O
So I ended up just making it work.
It's lined but also has a facing.
At first I was annoyed by this but it really does make for a super clean finish.
I wanted to use this mesh SO badly that I ended up piecing the back LOL! But the seams aren't that visible so...
The transition from the lined bodice to the unlined sleeve seems a bit bulky.
Maybe I need to serge a little closer to the seam allowance to really trim that down.
I would give this pattern high recommendations.
I have to admit though that even though I KNEW what to do with the facing/lining, I thought the instructions were a little confusing. It really is self-explanatory. Sew the facing to the lining, sew the whole thing to the dress, understitch, press.
Since I eliminated the zipper I didn't need to worry about connecting lining to zipper. IMO I hate zippers in easy wear knit dresses like this. It affects my "knit dress = secret pajamas" mindset :-p
Can't wait to dive into the rest of my fall McCalls!
