Saturday, September 5, 2015

Finished: McCall's 7244

Yep...I've made something else already. Actually a couple something else's...

I finished a cardigan and was having a hell of a time with the sweater knit and my buttonhole foot. I tried lots of things and was thinking of doing them by hand but nope. It's gonna go to my newfound seamstress lady. I'll just pay to get them done because I've mentally moved on from the project; but I want it finished! So full review to come - soon hopefully!


It's super cute :)

Alright; the point of the post!

I was all ga-ga over so many of the new McCall's and picked up a whole bunch of them. I knew that M7244 would get itself bumped way up on the list.

As I said in my planning post, I really need solid color work dresses. I decided on this merlot ponte from Fabric Mart. It's one of their mid/lightweights which I find perfect for dresses (and cardigans and skirts).

This pattern has a lined bodice which I did not realize at first. Because I am on a serious fabric fast, I trolled the stash for something to line it with and chose a mesh! It was a really good idea and I love that the inside of the dress is crazy :)

I should have cut a size 14 and did an FBA. But did I do that? No. No I did not. I did a 14 neckline/shoulder and graded to a 16 for the rest.

Finished measurements on the 16 are: 40 1/2 / 35 / 44 1/2. So just a tiny bit of positive ease at all points compared to my measurements (I am around 39.5"/34"/44")

Flat pattern adjustments:
1" length added to upper portion
1/2" swayback
1/2" bicep
Shortened the sleeves ~4"

Other adjustments:
I took the shoulder seam up an extra 1/4"
took the shoulder/sleeve in an extra 1/8"
Eliminated the zipper

Next time:
Nip the waist a bit
DO the FBA, I don't need much, but just a bit
Take a horizontal tuck on front between the shoulder and bust
Debating if I want to add more length. I don't want to change the proportions too much.

I think the boots make it look even shorter! 
Maybe it won't look so short when it's cold and I have on tights!! :)


I think some of the wrinkles are more to the fact that I lengthened the actual pattern 
but not the lining pattern :-O

So I ended up just making it work. 


My crazy lining! :) This graffiti mesh came from Fabric Mart, some time ago.


It's lined but also has a facing. 
At first I was annoyed by this but it really does make for a super clean finish. 


I wanted to use this mesh SO badly that I ended up piecing the back LOL! But the seams aren't that visible so...





The transition from the lined bodice to the unlined sleeve seems a bit bulky.
Maybe I need to serge a little closer to the seam allowance to really trim that down.



I absolutely adore the dress even though I believe the dropped waist emphasizes my rectangular shape.  And, I will definitely sew it in a print...and I think I'd love a sleeveless version. I almost didn't put the sleeves on this one! Then I remembered it was for fall/winter :)

I would give this pattern high recommendations.

I have to admit though that even though I KNEW what to do with the facing/lining, I thought the instructions were a little confusing. It really is self-explanatory. Sew the facing to the lining, sew the whole thing to the dress, understitch, press.

Since I eliminated the zipper I didn't need to worry about connecting lining to zipper. IMO I hate zippers in easy wear knit dresses like this. It affects my "knit dress = secret pajamas" mindset :-p

Can't wait to dive into the rest of my fall McCalls!

40 comments:

  1. So cute! I just got this pattern, and now that my sewing space is almost done with all the upgrades I just got I might be able to sew it soon. Glad to see that the zip isn't necessary, as I wasn't too excited about adding one either. It looks great with your jacket - I can't wait to see your other versions!

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    1. Yay!! Hope you get a chance to sew it up soon and congrats on your room!!

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  2. I've been following you on instagram lately (I am also a chemist! And a very new sewer) and am constantly impressed - love the burgundy dress!

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  3. No fair - you made my dress!!! I'm glad you did though your review really helped. Thanks!

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  4. Wow! Your dress looks great. I especially like the striped jacket with it. Great job!

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  5. That color is fantastic on you! Love how the dress came out. Beautiful!

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  6. This is such a great color on you, and I love the dress paired with the striped jacket. The mesh lining makes the dress even better!

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    1. Thank you! I love peeking at the inside already!

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  7. I think your dress looks great and from this distance it could easily be a reversible dress! That lining looks fantastic and I love it with the striped jacket too.

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    1. Haha! That is the FIRST thing I thought...REVERSIBLE DRESS! :)

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  8. OK - that is really cute on you! (you should wear it inside out one day just for fun...)
    :-)

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  9. The dress is great! I love that color. The dress is a great length on you. You look lovely. Good job & great info on using mesh for the lining.
    Bonnie @ sewplus.blogspot.com

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  10. Great dress! The lining you chose is one of the things I love about sewing!

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    1. Thank you! yes, it is extra nice to have those special little touches!

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  11. LOL @ "knit dresses = secret pajamas." I like dropped-waist styles on everyone except me. =) I really like the look with the cardigan and the lining is a nice surprise.

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    1. I mean, it's like SUPER easy dressing!!!! :)

      I have always stayed away from a dropped waist. I am a rectangle. I am going to look more rectangular. Hmmm...But I figured all I had to lose was 2 yards of ponte. I like it even though it DOES make me boxy!

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  12. Ok, I feel better now -I got a muslin made up this morning. I am convinced that this dress looks better at the design's shorter length. I lengthened the flounce and think I actually prefer the dress shorter.

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    1. I was on the fence about lengthening the flounce and decided not to. I agree that if you try to add too much length it may just look odd.

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  13. You are so talented! Beautiful work.

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  14. I too love this pattern, but I am afraid the dropped waist wont work for my body type. But after seeing how cute yours turned out, i went and bought the pattern today! I can only hope mine turns out looking half as good as yours.

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  15. Love that dress. Great color too.. The polka dot sweater is so pretty.. Sorry it gave you fits. Happy sewing.

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  16. Love that dress. Do you think it would work in a stretch woven? I'm hoping you'll say it will, because I think I have the perfect fabric for it!

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  17. Such a cute dress. Your version looks great.

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  18. Wasn't this pattern just released 5 minutes ago?! You are such a speedy sewer. I love how this dress turned out which is good because I have the pattern too. I might copy your fabric choice too, I think it's perfect for fall and winter.

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  19. This dress looks so good! Great color on you and I really like it paired with the jacket. Can't wait to see the cardigan...I see polka dots! yes!

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  20. Great job and it looks great on you.

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  21. Love the dress ! This one's on my list and McCalls are on sale this week - I'm really keeping my fingers crossed that they have the new patterns available but not too hopeful. Fabricville generally has their sale THEN fill the drawers with the new releases afterwards :-(

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  22. No wonder I love seeing the patterns you choose - I'm a 38/34/43 right now!

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!