Saturday, September 26, 2015

Butterick 5678

I updated my previous post with photos of the newly sewn NL6326 skirt :)

I finished this shirt about a week ago, and washed it to remove all of the marker marks that I'd made while sewing it. And it was wrinkled as heck! So I was just being super lazy and not ironing it.

But it's like the iron touches it and the wrinkles just melt away. Ahhhhh.

Where did I find this glorious fabric you ask? Sawyer Brook! This was my first ever purchase from them; an Italian cotton shirting. It is perfectly white, super crisp and the fibers are soooo smooth. At $16/yard, it is my most expensive per yard to date. But sewing it was so freaking fantastic. Every part of the process, like buttah baby!

Butterick 5678...I would call it a sleeper but it has gotten it's fair share of love in the sewing world. It is now OOP (I don't know WHY!).

I first attempted this blouse in March 2013 (yeah, that was TWO months after I learned to sew! See what kind of shenanigans beginners get into?!?!)

Oh the puckers and the sad collar and...oh my. But I was SO PROUD of myself because holycrapIsewedashirt.

In March 2014 I sewed it again for the PR Fitted Blouse contest and won the beginner category! This one was leaps and bounds better than the first but there were so many fits and so much unpicking and restitching!!!

I was originally going to save my cotton shirting for Burda 7136, which I've made twice. But I am smart (sometimes) and I wore the shirt to work recently to decide how it felt on. It is much more of a casual shirt. I mean, totally work appropriate, but not nearly as fitted as B5678. And then, Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) put a photo of B5678 on Instagram and planted the seed!! :)

My striped shirt had been in time out because someone had gotten a little too fluffy. Well, I have been doing really well the past couple of months and know that some other things are fitting better/looser. I pulled it out and YAY! It fits! It fits well! So I decided my awesome shirting would be better used on this pattern.

I made no pattern changes from last time, though I need a swayback adjustment. I think in 2014 I didn't understand how to true things up after making the adjustment so I just didn't. There is a lot of curvature in those pattern pieces, hence the level of fitted-ness. Obviously now, I think I'd be more equipped to make that adjustment.

Fitting changes
Cut the 14 D-cup with:
1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment
lowered bust point 1"
sewed front princess seams at 1/2"
removed 1/2" from the sleeve cap height (I need to put this back)

Design changes
No topstitching of the princess seams
spaced my buttons 3" apart instead of 3.5" as the pattern has it
Decided placement of buttons based on placing the 1st button at the apex
Used 2 smaller buttons on the cuff


It's weird that the camera is making it look like there's a missing button; there is not!


Still working on perfecting the stitching around the collar stand. I'd even drawn myself a line to follow!


I remember the first time being utterly confused by the continuous lap. Not this time! :)


I'd forgotten to press up the seam allowance on the facing. However, it worked out in my favor.
I pressed the seam allowance into place being sure to *just* cover the stitching line. I then held it in place with Wonder Tape. I am very happy with my top stitching here!

(that squiggly on the floor is a strip of serged striped ponte that Wilson the Cat absolutely LOVES playing with! It makes him crazy! lol! I think it's the b/w contrast)


My buttons for this were totally from the cheapo 5 on the card for $1. 
I just liked the look of them best.



I absolutely adore this combo.

I made B6182 earlier this year. I started it in May and then it was too tight. I thought it was because it was my "special time" and put it aside. A month later it was still too small. When I first went to wear it awhile later, it was too big! SERIOUSLY! So I threw it in a bag.

But I love it so much that I decided to make it work. However, I had unpicked and resewn the waistband like 3 different times that there was no way I was going to do it again. I cheated and just sewed darts! haha! It's cotton so it presses so well and it has a print so it isn't immediately apparent that the darts are there. And it's worth it because I LOVE THIS SKIRT! LOL!!!!!!! 



What do you think about this skirt in a pinwale cord??





32 comments:

  1. It's interesting that my version is inspiring you because I made the tunic version. I'm working my way up to a blouse but my ideas are more for tunics! Love this on you and how you've styled it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yep! Seeing you post the pattern made me revisit this one in my mind. I'd forgotten how well it fit.

      Delete
  2. It looks great. I too have trouble with the collar stand and yes I mark the line. One side is always better than another. The fabric looks so crisp and fresh is it 100% cotton I need this pattern 😃

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I always struggle with getting it perfect!

      It is 100% cotton!

      Delete
  3. Pinwale is the finest corduroy, isn't it? I think the skirt would look great, go for it.
    You look really smart in this outfit, you did such a great job on the shirt this time. I have some wonder tape but never hsed it for the facing, I'll try it next time.
    Oh, when I started sewing I chose the burdastyle kasia skirt as a first project. It had 13 pattern pieces and it was a complete mess, obvisously. The second project was a knit blazer. It took me a while to get it, what can I say :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much! Oh, do try the Wonder Tape!!!! You'll love it!

      Haha! I love beginners bravado! :) I think I've just recently considered the Kasia!

      Yep, pinwale is the finest. I have a cut in winter white and thinking it would be super cute!

      Delete
  4. Nice! The shirt looks great with the skirt. And I just love the fabric you used to make the skirt.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Paying more for fabric? Completely worth your time and money! Beautiful shirt!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I TOTALLY thought of you as I was sewing this one!!! hahaha!!!

      Thanks!

      Delete
  6. Rhonda Buss introduced me to this pattern some time ago. She took it and made so many different looks/patterns with hers. Check out her blog and do a search on the pattern number. Great ideas! Nice blouse BTW.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I did find all of her iterations of this one! She is so amazing!!!

      Delete
  7. Your shirt came out great! I love it with that skirt; definitely worth the save.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Love it. Glad you went ahead with it. I hate to cut into 'good' fabric too--but how will we ever get past these hurdles if we don't make the jumps? The moral of the story is the Italian Cotton Shirt and the excited sewist lived happily ever after. :D

    ReplyDelete
  9. The shirt looks fantastic! Definitely worth it to splurge on good fabric. I love it with that skirt also, at least it was easy to dart out the excess!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! Yes! I basted in the darts and thought "hey, that works!" :)

      Delete
  10. That is an awesome combo! You can never have too many crispy white shirts and I am glad you enjoyed the process.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you!! I agree. I need to totally get more nice cotton fabric!

      Delete
  11. Fantastic white shirt - and looks great with the skirt - a really classic look a la Mrs O. You wear the look well. Corduroy would look great as well.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Sarah Liz! Oh...I love her style so much <3

      I think the cord one will happen - soon!

      Delete
  12. I really like the shirt! It's very crisp, and it looks really good and really professional with the skirt.

    ReplyDelete
  13. You're right that the back could definitely use an adjustment. However, the fabric looks absolutely gorgeous and perfect for that style shirt! Especially once it's tucked into something like that skirt, I'm sure it becomes significantly less noticeable. Overall it looks great!

    ReplyDelete
  14. Love the combo too..Looks nice on you.
    I think a corduroy would be really pretty.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Love this look! It's an awesome combo on you - office appropriate but fun.

    The shirting fabric looks fabulous, too - did it sew up better than previous fabrics for the same shirt?

    ReplyDelete
  16. Cheers to us beginners, yay! Wow I totally admire you for trying to sew a white, long sleeved shirt after just 2 months of learning! I don’t think I have the same courage as you do! I just read around blogs (like Kayla Green’s!) and make simple skirts. LOL!

    ReplyDelete
  17. Oh I love that skirt with your crisp white shirt!!! Very awesome!

    ReplyDelete

Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!