Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Finished: New Look 6481

Didn't I *just* say at the end of my last post that I was going to try not to get distracted by shiny??

Sheesh.

In a FB group that I am in, someone posted some fall plans and it included the Decades of Style Three's a Charm jacket. I adored the lines but I always check Big4 and Burda before biting on an Indie pattern. Why? I know how they will fit and what adjustments I need to do. You all know by now that I balk at muslins! :-p

So I'm scrolling through the coat/jacket category on PR and see this:


Wait what? I've never seen that pattern before!?! It's PERFECT! Turns out it was a new one from the Fall release. Lucky me!!!! I had to visit the JoAnn in the crazy busy part of town but I got it! And then I kept thinking about it and this suiting that would be perfect for a LBJ and yeah, I started working on it when I got off work Friday :)

Let's clear something up. A couple of people have compared it to the Grainline Morris. IMHO, not.at.all like the Morris. Okay maybe 'not at all' is a stretch. It's a slightly cropped jacket. It is a much closer clone of the DoS jacket. I made a graphic!

See? 

Now, the Three's a Charm jacket offers far more opportunities to fit with all those wonderful darts (I really dig shoulder darts). And I prefer the lack of topstitching on the New Look (which you could of course, skip on the TaC. There are TONS of the TaC jacket up on blogs and I knew that I would never wear a jacket of this style buttoned so I decided to go ahead and gamble with the NL at $4.

However, based on the number of finished projects on such a wide variety of body types in an array of fabrics, I do think the TaC jacket could be a good buy at $12 for the PDF / $15 for the printed pattern.

Also, sizing on the NL vs DoS are comparable; The New Look is sizes 8-20 or bust measurements of 34-46. The Decades of Style is sized ABC but is for busts sized 30-46.

The big cheesy grin says it all - I love it!

I made a mistake right away with cutting. I very often cut size 14 and grade to a 16 at the side seam, eliminating the need for a shoulder adjustment. I then went and narrowed the shoulder 1/2". I have to add this back.

I did a 3/4" FBA and lowered the dart an inch. I also needed to move it back about an inch. The dart was sort of large to me so when I did my FBA, I had a big honkin' dart. I was surprised and redrew the lines to reduce some of the uptake. This was a bad move. I have folds but they are not because I need more room. When I pinch out just a bit more at the dart, the jacket lies flat.



I removed 4" in length from the sleeve and added a bit of width after measuring. I didn't do an actual full bicep adjustment because I thought it would be sufficient.

EEK!!

I'd set this very lovely pucker-free sleeve; I use lots 'o pins when setting sleeves:


Look at how smooth that cap is!!!!

And then I put the jacket on and holy moly was it tight!!!! LOL! I sat the jacket down, dejected and went to sit on the couch and drown my sorrows in a bowl of popcorn.

Revelation. Ok. Fine. Duh moment... CUT NEW SLEEVES :-p

I had 4 yards of this fabric snagged during a Fabric Mart sale. I'd paid $1.99/yd and thankfully, I did good. It presses beautifully and stitches up well.

After doing a proper 1" full bicep adjustment, I decided to add 1/2" to the sleeve cap. I'm not sure all of this extra was needed and admit that making this decision based on the too-tight sleeve was maybe a bad call. It's not bad but I can tell there's a bit of extra and it was harder to ease.
I can move!

The sleeve rotation - I notice this with jackets and then I had a lightbulb moment and remembered that Gail over at GKs Agenda blogged a fix for this. I'm going to try this on my next jacket.

I did a 3/4" swayback adjustment which is standard for me: 


I like the back fit

And because of basically solid black fabric decided to just serge all seams. In a print or color where I didn't have matching serger thread I'd definitely bind that center back seam for a little interest.

I also tacked the facing down at the point, at the cb seam and at the shoulder seams.



Sooo I pretty much am in love with and am wearing it today. Wearing the exact outfit actually that I blogged (different jewelry!) :)

Once I get some more fall sewing done I'll decide on what color to add next. It looked really cute over this black/white M6886 dress I made!

The outtake: that plant was attacking me!




26 comments:

  1. This looks fab, great job! And now I want this pattern, even though I live in Hawaii, ha! However, we only have 10 months left here, so it's never too early to start rebuilding a Fall wardrobe, amiright??

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  2. OH my, I love the jacket.. Looks so similar to the other ones.. Thanks for sharing this pattern.. It is on my 'want list".. I have had NO sew jo, since moving and working on this house...but , I think this jacket , is just what I need to get to sewing again..smile. Have a great day.

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    1. Thanks Judy!

      You're making such great strides with the house though!!! Hopefully your sewjo returns soon!

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  3. This is so nice! I see why you wore it right away!

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  4. Love this jacket! The shape is so nice. Good thing you had that extra fabric!

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    1. Thanks Lisa! Yes. I normally buy *enough* glad I had extra!

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  5. Great jacket! I just bought the NewLook pattern.I also have the Morris one but for some reason have been afraid to give it a try.

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    1. Thanks Faye!!

      Grainline's aesthetic is just not quite for me. A bit too slouchy/boxy. But the nice thing is, there are a ton of reviews on it!

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  6. Gorgeous! I bought the Decades of Style pattern, and I'm not sad I did, but I'm not ruling out picking up this one, too! :)

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    1. Thanks MKG! Oooh you could sew BOTH! :-)

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  7. Very lovely jacket. I'm glad you were able to fix it - it's always a great idea to have extra fabric.

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    1. Thank you Olivia!!! Such a good idea! :)

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  8. It is Decades of Style's Three's a Charm pattern.

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  9. Your jacket looks great. I think that pattern is made by Decades of Style and not Itch to Stitch.

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  10. Omg
    You guys are right. I had the pattern page up while I was writing this post too! Haha!

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  11. Love it! I totally need one. I'd wear it to work all the time!

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    1. Thanks T!! I want to wear it again. Like, tomorrow. :)

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  12. Your jacket turned out great. I also picked up this pattern last week. Can't wait to make my own version. I was unsure what type of fabric to use, but I like your idea of using suiting. Thanks for the idea!

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    1. Thanks Lisa! I went back and forth on fabric choice too. I think crisp enough that the points are apparent but soft enough that it doesn't look too stiff/boxy. I could see it in a heavy ponte too.

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  13. This whole outfit is cute! Love the colour mix.

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  14. That is a neat jacket pattern! You look great!

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  15. Looks good! I can't wait to make to make this jacket. I can't seem to find the "perfect" fabric to make it with.

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  16. I have this pattern and plan to make the jacket. Thanks for your review.

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!