Sunday, February 15, 2015

Finished Vogue 8620

I mentioned before that I was SERIOUSLY eyeing this pattern last year when we had a meetup at Treadle Yard Goods here in the Twin Cities. She had used a deep burgundy fabric and had done the screen printing and it was just FANTASTIC on her.

I have seen the pattern on Ebay and Etsy so it is still around if you're looking for it. Anyway, I posted a "wanted" classified on PR and a very nice sewer offered to gift the pattern to me. YAY! Sewing friends are the best!

I'd purchased two cuts of denim from FabricMart for the jeans contest and washed them both. This one turned out streaky and I noticed the weave looks more like a twill than denim. I decided it would be good for this as I wouldn't be too hurt if it didn't work out.

Well, it worked! :)

I think it looks good open or closed!

I like the slight volume in the lower half. And the back makes me HAPPY! Those wrinkles are kinda not real. It's my topstitching of the facing. I have to redo it. It lay smoothly before I topstitched.

I cut a size 14 and the only adjustment I made was to sew the waist seam at 1/2" instead of 5/8". BUT I forgot this would affect the facing too -oops. I "split the difference" between top and bottom.  Next time I'd lengthen the sleeves a little.

I used denim and navy cotton poplin; both from Fabric Mart.
Zipper is a run of the mill Coates & Clark.
I went with white topstitching and it stands out enough without being overwhelming. I really like it!!!
I added a grosgrain zipper tab in white.

The seaming is so awesome <3

The instructions have you bind the pockets and facing and hem and like, everything.


I used a cream/grey serger blend as I don't mind using serger thread as contrast on the interior. I used double fold bias tape on the bottom and then turned up the hem. 

The in-seam pockets are made by staying the top & bottom, clipping and then doing a narrow hem. There's only one pocket piece that is edge finished and then topstitched to the lower front. Works for me!

How all that comes together on the inside...

After futzing around a bunch trying to match everything; I realized the top mattered the least...I HAD to match that waist seam and the bottom, below the zipper stop. I did some serious hand basting here!

(You can see the streaks in the denim here)

The collar is shaped where it connects to the facing and the jacket but it's otherwise a giant rectangle folded in half.

I have _NO_ interfacing in this jacket and I like it that way.

The zipper goes from about 1 1/4" from the bottom all the way up to the collar.

That collar is pretty awesome too! 
(ooh, you can see where the collar seams are just slightly off. 
But as I said, I was far more concerned with matching the waist and hem!!)

I feel like this jacket packs a lot of punch without being difficult to construct at all.

Wait. You think I just sewed this up right out?!? Pfft!

I was rocking and rolling and then BAM. 
I stitched the front to back, had a heck of a time pressing the seams open, and serged. And then I realized what had gone wrong; I missed the gusset. There is a sleeve gusset and I did not sew it in place. I had already serged my seams!

After unpicking everything (tear-free), I was back in business. The jacket was mostly assembled and then for some reason I was confusing myself entirely over the hem treatment. Like it has happened many other times, I realized what I was supposed to do Friday night as I was in bed. Just HongKong binding (or double fold bias tape), sew the facing, then hem. But I was making it SO complicated.

Then, I wanted to see a sleeve! So I "hurried" and sewed one sleeve. "so cute!".
When I went to sew the second sleeve I stitched, pressed, serged and pulled out the sleeve. And was confused. And turned it again.

I had sewn the lower sleeve inside out. CUE THE TEARS!

After unpicking the sleeve seam and redoing everything I went to press the final product and realized I'd somehow rotated the (same!) sleeve a bit when I re-did it. WHY!?!?!?! So of the cuffs is on the side and one is on the front. My husband says he will unpick the stitches for me. :-) 

Despite those hiccups, I really, really love it! I like the fit and length; I like the style on me so much! I think I can sew another of these. It was pretty cute without the lower sleeve attached and I might explore that once the weather warms up! 


  1. Wow, your husband is a gem! I think that's a great look on you, there's no way I would've bought the pattern since the fabric choices they made for the cover are so loud, but seeing how it can be a nice simple jacket has me rethinking it .

    1. Thanks Ali!! Yeah, it definitely took me seeing it in person to make me love it!

  2. It looks like a great jacket! (despite the issues).

  3. Even though the construction was a little challenging - the finished jacket is cute! Sometimes the journey is fraught with trouble so that we can learn and know in the future that we can handle anything that happens when we sew!

  4. I'm thinking like Ali. Your husband IS a gem. I have this pattern and have yet to make it. I have not seen it made up as an alternative to the popular denim jacket. It's so classy--and looks good on you. Glad you got the kinks worked out.

  5. Thats awesome! Turned out great :) x

  6. I'd never noticed this pattern before--Marci Tilton's stuff isn't really my style, but I LOVE your version. I like everything about this--your fabric choice and the top-stitching. I might need to hunt this pattern down.

    1. See, me either! I normally pass over the Tilton stuff until I saw it in motion. It was stunning.

  7. Super cute on you! So worth the difficulties in the end.

  8. Love this! Really cool jacket, totally worth it.

  9. I love it too :). Must be something in the air at the moment, we have both had mishaps:)

    There is absolutely nothing to not like about this garment. And your sewing is getting better all the time :)

  10. I want this pattern. Now! This is fantastic Nakisha!!

    From today's "This is Stupid" weather forecast, the temperature is -17F. No wind chill.

    1. Eeeek! I think it would look great on you L!

      UGH! Isn't it time for winter to just go away?!?

  11. I've never even noticed this jacket before. It has great lines and you did a wonderful job on it!

  12. perfect jacket.. Looks so cute on you... love it over the the white top.. How sweet that the lady gave you the pattern [sweet giver , like you..]
    I also enjoyed that you told all about your mess ups too.. You are such a wonderful /fast sewer, never think about you messing up anything.ha
    Happy sewing.

  13. The jacket looks great on you! You persevered through all of the hiccups and all of your hard work has paid off.

  14. Lovely jacket and great details.

  15. That is a cute pattern, I really like the shaped hem and unlined casual jackets are always useful.

  16. I love everything about this jacket but especially all the topstitching. I have to say your version is so much more appealing than the pattern photo.

  17. I am making up this pattern next - and I have a question.... I am thinking about adding a quilted lining to the upper body sections... I have a lighter suiting for the top, and was planning on using a cool heavier felted stripe I have for the bottom - I thought I would use the quilted fabric as an underlining of sorts for the lighter suiting.... Can you take a look at yours and call me out if you think it won't work?


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