Since the green version is in heavy rotation in my wardrobe, I pulled it on just before I started to try to figure out additional adjustments.
I took a tuck at the armscye, rotating that new dart to the bust dart. However, I should have then lowered the dart just a tad.
I shortened the sleeve 1/2", took a 3/4" swayback wedge and changed the patch pockets to welts.
I really need to start addressing my left sloping shoulder, especially in jackets. Which, should be much easier when there's a CB seam.
What did I "do" that I have that chevron effect at the hem? See the blue stripes??
I'm pretty proud of all of my stripe matching. I got a near perfect match on the BACK of the sleeve, of course. The front isn't half bad but the back is like, spot on.
On the first version, in gray, the pockets were set really far towards the side seam; I moved them forward 1/2" on the green version...and then forgot on this one! So I still feel like the pockets are a tad bit wide.
Still contemplating buttons.
1) Last time I mentioned that something odd happens at the junction of collar, shoulder seam, facing. No, I had missed a line of directions. It is fine in this version
2) This fabric is quite a bit thicker than the green ponte and I could have used a lighter interfacing.
3) I made one critical error that may affect how much I wear it :( Didn't even think twice about it and interfaced both the upper AND under collar. And didn't I just mention this interfacing is a bit much? Yeah...the collar is REALLY stiff. Like, I've got to be ready to wear a 'popped' collar!
4) Another error that is much less critical...I matched the facing stripes starting at the top and was confused on why the bottom didn't line up. That should have set off an alarm! From the lapel to the break point, you are to stretch the jacket front to match the facing. So from the breakpoint down I mismatched my stripes. It works because it takes on a checkerboard effect and kind of mirrors the pockets. That could have gone bad.
Another mention on the pockets...I used this tutorial for the welts: http://poppykettle.com/2012/04/10/101-single-welt-pockets/
I interfaced the jacket front where the welt was going and interfaced the welt itself. Otherwise, there was no way I was going to get the welt to stay crisp in this knit.
I mirrored the direction of the pocket welt for the facing and used a really lightweight white knit for the pocket bag.
I again referenced the tutorial at Pattern, Scissors, Cloth for the notched collar: http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/04/rtw-tailoring-sewalong-11-collar-and.html
But I wasn't nearly as confused this time and I took the time to make tailor tacks at all the importnt collar markings. Results? Easy peasy perfect notched collar.
I think I've officially conquered my fear of the notched collar and the welt pocket! YAY!
Wait...I still have to do a notched collar in a woven. Ahhhh :)
4 blocks done!