Monday, August 17, 2015

Finished: Butterick 5926 in NAVY & White! :)

I finished it and took pics on Sunday, but then managed to take a 3+ hour nap! :-O

Since the green version is in heavy rotation in my wardrobe, I pulled it on just before I started to try to figure out additional adjustments.

I took a tuck at the armscye, rotating that new dart to the bust dart. However, I should have then lowered the dart just a tad.

I shortened the sleeve 1/2", took a 3/4" swayback wedge and changed the patch pockets to welts.



I really need to start addressing my left sloping shoulder, especially in jackets. Which, should be much easier when there's a CB seam.

What did I "do" that I have that chevron effect at the hem? See the blue stripes??


I'm pretty proud of all of my stripe matching. I got a near perfect match on the BACK of the sleeve, of course. The front isn't half bad but the back is like, spot on.

On the first version, in gray, the pockets were set really far towards the side seam; I moved them forward 1/2" on the green version...and then forgot on this one! So I still feel like the pockets are a tad bit wide.


Still contemplating buttons. 

1) Last time I mentioned that something odd happens at the junction of collar, shoulder seam, facing. No, I had missed a line of directions. It is fine in this version

2) This fabric is quite a bit thicker than the green ponte and I could have used a lighter interfacing.

3) I made one critical error that may affect how much I wear it :( Didn't even think twice about it and interfaced both the upper AND under collar. And didn't I just mention this interfacing is a bit much? Yeah...the collar is REALLY stiff. Like, I've got to be ready to wear a 'popped' collar!

4) Another error that is much less critical...I matched the facing stripes starting at the top and was confused on why the bottom didn't line up. That should have set off an alarm! From the lapel to the break point, you are to stretch the jacket front to match the facing. So from the breakpoint down I mismatched my stripes. It works because it takes on a checkerboard effect and kind of mirrors the pockets. That could have gone bad.

Another mention on the pockets...I used this tutorial for the welts: http://poppykettle.com/2012/04/10/101-single-welt-pockets/

I interfaced the jacket front where the welt was going and interfaced the welt itself. Otherwise, there was no way I was going to get the welt to stay crisp in this knit.

I mirrored the direction of the pocket welt for the facing and used a really lightweight white knit for the pocket bag.


I again referenced the tutorial at Pattern, Scissors, Cloth for the notched collar: http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.com/2011/04/rtw-tailoring-sewalong-11-collar-and.html

But I wasn't nearly as confused this time and I took the time to make tailor tacks at all the importnt collar markings. Results? Easy peasy perfect notched collar.

I think I've officially conquered my fear of the notched collar and the welt pocket! YAY!

Wait...I still have to do a notched collar in a woven. Ahhhh :)


4 blocks done!


39 comments:

  1. I love your green version so I was always going to love this one - the stripes are awesome and love that you've added welt pockets.

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    1. Thank you!!

      I wore the green one AGAIN today! :)

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  2. This jacket is fantastic! Love it!

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  3. Cute cute cute! I love the stripes and those welts are KILLER! Good work!

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    1. Thank you! I am SO happy that I finally conquered the fear!

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  4. Really like:-) it looks great on you

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  5. Awesome job as always my dear. Love it.

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  6. This is such a great jacket! I really love the welts and the stripes - it all looks very crisp and pulled together. So nice.

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  7. Love this jacket! Nice work.

    But wait...we thought you were giving up on quilting...

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    1. Thank you!

      Well I have to finish THIS one! My daughter is counting on it! :)

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  8. Your jacket looks amazing and thanks for the link to the welt pocket info. That's one technique I need to master one day.

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    1. Thank you! It's oddly rewarding snipping into the fabric like that :-p

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  9. I love love love love love love love this jacket! Seriously love it. <3 The welt pocket, in particular, is fabulous! :D I could go on, but I think I will just stare at a it a bit more. ;)

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  10. I love your jacket. I have some yellow and white ponte that im dying to make into a knit jacket for spring. you have given me the push I needed. The quilt looks awesome and don't give up yet. quilting is so relaxing and so much fun. I have been quilting since I was 17 and it will come and you will be awesome at it.

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    1. Thank you!!! I hope you love your jacket when it's all done!

      Oh, this one will get finished. My daughter requested it go with her when she leaves for college next year!

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  11. Your jacket is amazing. You did such a great job on matching those stripes!

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  12. So, so cute! Those stripes are perfection!

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  13. Woo! That jacket is snazzy! You did a great job. And I have no doubt you can rock a popped collar. :) Quilt blocks! Love the palette you've got going-- it is going to look amazing.

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    1. Thank you!!

      As usual, when she made the suggestion, I was giving her MAJOR side eye. But it works...it really does!

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  14. I've been following your blog for a while now. You make some fantastic clothes! Love the new jacket! and the quilt squares. Awesome!!

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  15. This is one of those jackets that can be worn with bright colors. Love it!

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    1. Thank you!! I did have the urge to pull out two bright pieces of fabric to make tops!

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  16. Wow Nakisha, this is stunning! I absolutely love it!

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  17. Darling jacket! Black and white always works and this will give you tons of wear.

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  18. Your jacket is wonderful! I missed the green one, but I will have to go back and check it out!!

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  19. That jacket - I don't even have the words!!

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!