Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Staycation Sewing: Simplicity 2556 & Butterick 6066

(I've been horrible at replying to comments lately - sorry!!! I'll do better!)


I don't know if it's currently "in fashion" but I have wanted a menswear inspired vest since for.ever.

Simplicity 2556

I have a handful of vest patterns but decided that I had to have view C (totally want view A too!). And I've also always wanted a matching vest and pants combo! So I used the same fabric from my V9155 pants.  I ordered 2.5 yards of this fabric from Fabric Mart and then it showed up in the clearance section and oops, I ordered it again! haha!  I was able to cut the entire main part of the vest from the same cut as the pants, and had to pull the other cut out to cut the facings.

This pattern has cup sizing - WIN!

I cut a 16C and made the following adjustments:
3/4" Swayback
1/2" added to side back piece via slash and spread for more butt room
1/4" tuck in the upper chest
lowered bust point 1"

I used brown lining that I had in my stash and these amazing shell buttons from the lovely Carolyn of Diary of a Sewing Fanatic (thanks again Carolyn!!!)


Verdict? LOVE. 

I tried it on with a ton of tops and it looks best with fitted tops (duh); the button front, tie neck and fitted scoop or v-neck tops. 

This vest took FOREVER. Like, forever and ever. But man was it worth it.

There is one tricky part in the instructions. The vest is turned out with the side seams of both lining and fabric open. You have to sew in the round to close them and slip-stitch the rest of the opening closed.

They say to start about an inch down and go down the lining fabric and around the fashion fabric coming back around. I recommend going the opposite direction; Start about 1" below the armhole seam on the lining and sew through the armhole seam, onto the fashion fabric, through the hemline and back onto the lining fabric.


I generally don't like fake pockets but somehow the stand-alone flaps are okay. 

With the lining, I trimmed 1/8" from neckline (all the way around), armhole and the back 'V' so I wouldn't have to understitch.  The pattern didn't actually mention understitching which was a little brow raising. I'd be worried that there would be peek through from the lining.

my slipstitching leaves a little to be desired

I positioned these buttons 3 times. I'm not taking them off again. I didn't make the buttonholes according to the pattern markings (thankfully), but I did put the outside buttons on and had to move them down an inch. And then when I was making the buttonholes the sewn on buttons was preventing the fabric from feeding (auto buttonholer) so I had to take them off. And then I realized I put the buttons that go through the b-holes too close to the front and had to move them. 

They could be moved a little bit further out but not today. Maybe later. Maybe :-p


I so love the little band in back. It's just a cool little detail that's fun to look at. 


****************

And THEN...

Have you ever sewn something and then realized OH MY GOSH I'VE BEEN MISSING THIS ITEM AND DIDN'T EVEN KNOW IT?!?!

That's what happened with this grey dress!!!!

I finished up the vest and was deciding what to sew next. I'd just done (a ton of) laundry and realized I only have 1 woven dress for work; the rest are knits. So that part was decided. And then I went looking for cup sizing because I love cup sizing and decided on this pattern.

I then chose "unicorn" fabric. I bought this 2 yard cut of sewing forever ago for pants. It came and was only 50" wide so not enough fabric for any of my pants patterns. 

I've been hoarding it for "the right pattern" ever since. Well this is IT! B6066 is an unsuspecting number but somehow I knew that I would love it.

I went with a 16C but cut a 14 at the neckline and did a 3/4" swayback adjustment. 

I lined the bodice (per the pattern) in a teal pongee but then could only find a long zipper in blue. Darn it. I totally had blue lining fabric! 

This dress felt never ending for awhile, but that's typically how I feel when I make something lined. This fabric is thick and spongee and some of those seams were really bulky. 

To attach the arm bands, you sew the front band to the front bodice and same for the back. Then sew the shoulder seams...and same for the lining. So when you're then connecting the side seams there's a TON of bulk at the armhole. I graded those seams, steamed them well, and used my handy dandy big block of wood to flatten them. Worked a treat.


I want to wear this forever and never take it off! It makes me feel amazing!!! The only issue is that this length is so perfect, yet this is unhemmed. I'll be swinging by Hancock tomorrow to grab some hem tape; I want to lose as little length as possible.


I got a nice fit through the back!


There's a tiny bit of zipper peak at the waist. Dang it.

I zipped it up and thought, "Whew, that's a little snug in the waist!"

Then I thought, "Hey, wait a minute! Snug pants. Snug dress. Those black pants I wore Saturday were snug..."

I'm gonna blame it on Christmas Cookie Syndrome. Since my diet has returned to that of a normal person --instead of a pro athlete who is carb loading in preparation for a big competition -- I expect to fit into my clothing like normal, soon. :-p


You know I love to throw on a denim jacket and boots whenever I can! :) Like the vest, I chose to trim off 1/8" from the lining instead of understitching. I didn't match my zipper color but I matched the top up perfectly! :)

I had to use this one, even though my necklace is messed up, because I got kitty photo bombed




I really love this arm band/sleeve/thingy. This would be really cool in (p)leather!

The bodice lining was to be stitched separated and then later attached to the skirt or something. Nope. I treated the skirt-to-bodice seam like underlining; serged the bodice and lining together and then sewed that to the skirt. The seam was really bulky so I just pressed it open. We'll see if I need to press it up or down (I think I read that there's a difference in how you press a waist seam of a dress).

So far I've had a fantastic Sewing Staycation! I'm being super productive in all ways, even though my cutting hand is starting to protest (much prefer shears to rotary cutters). 

Until later!