Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Staycation Sewing: Simplicity 2556 & Butterick 6066

(I've been horrible at replying to comments lately - sorry!!! I'll do better!)

I don't know if it's currently "in fashion" but I have wanted a menswear inspired vest since for.ever.

Simplicity 2556

I have a handful of vest patterns but decided that I had to have view C (totally want view A too!). And I've also always wanted a matching vest and pants combo! So I used the same fabric from my V9155 pants.  I ordered 2.5 yards of this fabric from Fabric Mart and then it showed up in the clearance section and oops, I ordered it again! haha!  I was able to cut the entire main part of the vest from the same cut as the pants, and had to pull the other cut out to cut the facings.

This pattern has cup sizing - WIN!

I cut a 16C and made the following adjustments:
3/4" Swayback
1/2" added to side back piece via slash and spread for more butt room
1/4" tuck in the upper chest
lowered bust point 1"

I used brown lining that I had in my stash and these amazing shell buttons from the lovely Carolyn of Diary of a Sewing Fanatic (thanks again Carolyn!!!)

Verdict? LOVE. 

I tried it on with a ton of tops and it looks best with fitted tops (duh); the button front, tie neck and fitted scoop or v-neck tops. 

This vest took FOREVER. Like, forever and ever. But man was it worth it.

There is one tricky part in the instructions. The vest is turned out with the side seams of both lining and fabric open. You have to sew in the round to close them and slip-stitch the rest of the opening closed.

They say to start about an inch down and go down the lining fabric and around the fashion fabric coming back around. I recommend going the opposite direction; Start about 1" below the armhole seam on the lining and sew through the armhole seam, onto the fashion fabric, through the hemline and back onto the lining fabric.

I generally don't like fake pockets but somehow the stand-alone flaps are okay. 

With the lining, I trimmed 1/8" from neckline (all the way around), armhole and the back 'V' so I wouldn't have to understitch.  The pattern didn't actually mention understitching which was a little brow raising. I'd be worried that there would be peek through from the lining.

my slipstitching leaves a little to be desired

I positioned these buttons 3 times. I'm not taking them off again. I didn't make the buttonholes according to the pattern markings (thankfully), but I did put the outside buttons on and had to move them down an inch. And then when I was making the buttonholes the sewn on buttons was preventing the fabric from feeding (auto buttonholer) so I had to take them off. And then I realized I put the buttons that go through the b-holes too close to the front and had to move them. 

They could be moved a little bit further out but not today. Maybe later. Maybe :-p

I so love the little band in back. It's just a cool little detail that's fun to look at. 


And THEN...

Have you ever sewn something and then realized OH MY GOSH I'VE BEEN MISSING THIS ITEM AND DIDN'T EVEN KNOW IT?!?!

That's what happened with this grey dress!!!!

I finished up the vest and was deciding what to sew next. I'd just done (a ton of) laundry and realized I only have 1 woven dress for work; the rest are knits. So that part was decided. And then I went looking for cup sizing because I love cup sizing and decided on this pattern.

I then chose "unicorn" fabric. I bought this 2 yard cut of sewing forever ago for pants. It came and was only 50" wide so not enough fabric for any of my pants patterns. 

I've been hoarding it for "the right pattern" ever since. Well this is IT! B6066 is an unsuspecting number but somehow I knew that I would love it.

I went with a 16C but cut a 14 at the neckline and did a 3/4" swayback adjustment. 

I lined the bodice (per the pattern) in a teal pongee but then could only find a long zipper in blue. Darn it. I totally had blue lining fabric! 

This dress felt never ending for awhile, but that's typically how I feel when I make something lined. This fabric is thick and spongee and some of those seams were really bulky. 

To attach the arm bands, you sew the front band to the front bodice and same for the back. Then sew the shoulder seams...and same for the lining. So when you're then connecting the side seams there's a TON of bulk at the armhole. I graded those seams, steamed them well, and used my handy dandy big block of wood to flatten them. Worked a treat.

I want to wear this forever and never take it off! It makes me feel amazing!!! The only issue is that this length is so perfect, yet this is unhemmed. I'll be swinging by Hancock tomorrow to grab some hem tape; I want to lose as little length as possible.

I got a nice fit through the back!

There's a tiny bit of zipper peak at the waist. Dang it.

I zipped it up and thought, "Whew, that's a little snug in the waist!"

Then I thought, "Hey, wait a minute! Snug pants. Snug dress. Those black pants I wore Saturday were snug..."

I'm gonna blame it on Christmas Cookie Syndrome. Since my diet has returned to that of a normal person --instead of a pro athlete who is carb loading in preparation for a big competition -- I expect to fit into my clothing like normal, soon. :-p

You know I love to throw on a denim jacket and boots whenever I can! :) Like the vest, I chose to trim off 1/8" from the lining instead of understitching. I didn't match my zipper color but I matched the top up perfectly! :)

I had to use this one, even though my necklace is messed up, because I got kitty photo bombed

I really love this arm band/sleeve/thingy. This would be really cool in (p)leather!

The bodice lining was to be stitched separated and then later attached to the skirt or something. Nope. I treated the skirt-to-bodice seam like underlining; serged the bodice and lining together and then sewed that to the skirt. The seam was really bulky so I just pressed it open. We'll see if I need to press it up or down (I think I read that there's a difference in how you press a waist seam of a dress).

So far I've had a fantastic Sewing Staycation! I'm being super productive in all ways, even though my cutting hand is starting to protest (much prefer shears to rotary cutters). 

Until later!


  1. I love your dress and agree that the sleeve band would be great in pleather. It fits you perfectly! This pattern is going onto my "must buy" list.

  2. I love the dress! So flattering ; you are gorgeous!

  3. Staaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhp. I cannot add another pattern to the queue! I think I have more patterns in queue than in the pattern drawer. =P

    This is everything and then some. I've had that vest pattern for years. YEARS. I take it out of the drawer. Put it back. Repeat five or six times. Per year. Both outfits are superb!

    1. Thank you L!! You'd better get those patterns out the queue and on yo' body! :-p

      I saw where you muslined it. I think it's totally your style!!!

  4. Both pieces are awesome! I love that you left the contrast off the dress because when you posted it to IG I was a little worried. BTW, fix your link on PR for the dress it takes you to a non-working link!

  5. Love both pieces. They are Cute! Cute! Cute!

  6. So cute! The dress is especially awesome on you.

  7. Love your dress. The fit is great.. I too have been the carb eater this past 2 wks... and I can tell the difference.lol] Have a fun sewcation.

  8. My god, that dress looks great on you!

  9. My god, that dress looks great on you!

  10. Both these pieces look fantastic on you. I love a good vest - or waistcoat as we call them in the UK - I made one quite similar myself a while ago. The dress is gorgeous, that pattern is going on my list!

  11. Two amazingly flattering garments Nakisha. You are having a very successful sewcation.

  12. I love me a good vest. I haven't made or worn one in years. But, I do love them. And, that dress is a total win!

  13. I love the dress. It suits you beautifully and fits so well. I'm going to add this one to my wanna buy list!
    I love the back detail on the waistcoat. I've been making a men's waistcoat (vest) toile (muslin) and had enormous problems turning through - practically had to dismantle and it was all understitched! I think I know what to do next time ...
    Happy New Year!

  14. Both of these are so sharp!! LOVE. I picked up that dress pattern last spring and just haven't had the right fabric. It looks amazing on you!! I totally want to make it now.

  15. You are really rocking that vest, especially the version on the right.
    Just bought the pattern online. I HAVE TO MAKE THAT DRESS. I even have the perfect fabric for it. Can't wait!

  16. Love that dress! I would have never taken a second look at that pattern, but yours is amazing. Now I need it. You have a great eye!

  17. Glad to see someone's doing their part to bring vests back. I've been waffling on a vest pattern I have in the stash for literally years.

  18. Looking great. Vests are one of the best looks around - not sure why they dropped out of fashion, but for a slim line look, nothing beats it.

  19. I love vests, love to make them, make a lot of them for me and the menfolks.
    I also love cookies, and between them and the days being shorter, not as much walking time and more....cookie time. Why don't these pants fit today?

    This, too, shall change.

  20. Definitely two wins! I think you idea of taking forever is different from mine. I don't know how you get so much accomplished.

  21. I love the vest and the dress! Your workmanship is superb, and I really like how you styled both pieces!

  22. I also love vests, and collect vest patterns. yes I have this one. Yours looks so fab, it made me decide I need to make one soon. You look fantastic in the Butterick dress. And it looks so cute worn with the jean jacket and boots.

  23. Love your vest, especially with the tie blouse - beautiful!!! And you look gorgeous in that dress - fabulous!

  24. I love the vest and the dress on you! You have inspired me to make a menswear vest for myself too!

  25. Both pieces so stylish! I'm feeling that vest a lot!

  26. You are right. That dress is PERFECT!

  27. I love when fabric hides out in your stash until it matches perfectly with a pattern :D These pieces look great!! You always look so put together with your outfits

  28. The vest and dress are great. I love your style. BTW, I'm reading through all your past entries.

  29. I just sent you an email, but ill post here as well. I am in search of Simplicity Vest Pattern 2556, but it is out of print and seemingly impossible to find! I am looking specifically for the size 16-22 pattern size. I made a friend a vest out of this that she adores, and now i want to make her a vest for her wedding but i cannot find this pattern anywhere! I saw that you made this vest and I am wondering If you still have this pattern? If so, would you be willing to loan it to me so I could trace out the pieces I need and then return the pattern as it is back to you? I am even willing to pay for the rental! Or if you no longer need it of course i would even pay you more than what the pattern originally sold for! Please help me if you can! You would be making my friend and I both very happy! I would be eternally grateful! Thank you so much and have a great day!

    1. Oh yeah! You can contact me at raggedyanniedesigns@ gmail.com Thanks!


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