Thursday, July 28, 2016

Sometimes I Get Too Excited...

We knew that from my last post though, didn't we?

I finished the Burda dress - LOVE. Need to get photos.
I also finished the Style Arc skirt - Really like. Need to get photos!

But the more I started thinking about fall sewing, I couldn't stop thinking about what I was hoping would be a part of my fall sewing, the plus sized pants from the August issue of Burda.

I really liked them with hem band and without and looked forward to making both views. I was surprised to see a 17" finished hem because they look slimmer...yet on the modeled photos it's obvious they're just barely tapered. 

I was NOT happy when I learned that the side panel is a "drafted" rectangle. I did not have high hopes for that working well when there's butt, hips and thighs to cover. 

I was intrigued by the pocket but right after cutting them I had second thoughts -- Always listen to yourself!

So there were several issues with the pockets:
1) The front pattern piece and pocket piece are NOT curved to create an opening as the drawing suggests. They have straight edges and they connect to the rectangular side piece. So it's a 'regular old' inseam pocket and it doesn't work well.

2) It connects to the rectangular side piece. So no markings. This became an issue when I realized the rectangle was "drafted" to include a self facing. But I lined it up with the top of the front waistband and used the front pattern piece's markings to place the pocket in the side piece. 

3) They are in a weird spot. Here the drawing is accurate. The pocket sits right across the crotch. Just WEIRD!

I really wanted to share a pic but couldn't bring myself to post it. And they have all already been deleted from my phone. The horror. 

They were neatly done though! LOL!

I kicked so much butt matching stripes. Dang it! 

This is the yoke in back

I then ripped out ALL of the pocket stitching and sewed up the seams. I then had another issue with the rectangular side piece. I was looking at the measurements for the pair with the band. Doh! So I had to chop off like 4.5" in length. 

So now they are a bad length for the hem width. I decide I'll just go ahead and add the hem band to this pair and finish stitching up the vertical seams.

I don't love them.

They are *ok*

sorry for the shoe collection! LOL!

I kept this one for the pants but the face I was making in this photo was all sorts of crazy!

I think I will finish them (if I can figure out what Burda wants me to do with the back waistband).  If you look at the photo of the yoke stripe matching you can see that it has an elasticated back waist. But Burda's instructions make NO sense. It's horrible.  

The good:
-This fabric. Swoon. It's a wool blend suiting from FM with a light grey pinstripe on a medium grey. It is really soft but sturdy and presses so well. 

-They are fine. I can incorporate them into my wardrobe so it isn't a total waste.

-They fit very well in front and they are decent in back. I removed 3/4" from the front rise and added 3/4" at the back. I also added 3/8" at the crotch extension in back and scooped the back curve a little. Burda does include the instruction to stretch out the back inseam which really is necessary for a closer fitting pant. I could use a full inner thigh adjustment. I need to make that a part of my regular adjustments! I always forget.

The bad:
-I don't like Burda's random zipper placement choices! LOL! Though there's not a lot of options here...there's an invisible zipper on the left side between the side panel and back piece. Again, it's okay but it's just awkward. 

-I wanted a slim-legged, close fitting pant. Which I am starting to wonder if that's even possible without a bunch of Lycra. So they aren't exactly what I was looking for.

-If I want to make this pair wearable I have to add the hem bands. 17" is too wide for this length. And I don't wear capris so shortening them isn't an option. 

Fall hopes and dreams dashed! :-p

I really wanted a slim-legged, close fitting, fly-front pant. Which I wonder if I should revisit Burda 1/2016 and try to make those work. They have a lot of seaming though which feels more casual to me. They have a side panel but it is shaped and darted, allowing for a nice fit.

A bit tight in the thigh and a bit baggier at the knees than I'd like.

And I feel like, for a slightly tapered pant with a side zipper, that V9155 is a better option:

They fit me pretty well and they have GOOD pockets! :)

I have 3 finished projects to blog and I need to get going on the wedding guest dress. Which, I visited SR Harris and found no knits that I loved for the option 3, fun flirty Burda dress. But I also couldn't stop thinking about Vogue 1447 and as I was leaving the store, I happened upon the lace aisle and nearly gasped at this pewter lace. After I cut my yardage (you do it yourself!), I was waiting to check out and wandered over to the silks. Okay...they cut the silks (and anything over 5 yards). I thought, hmm, this is a pretty color...and when I draped the lace over the silk, two people came over and swooned over the combo. I was SOLD!


I was sold on the idea. The lace was $5/yd and I got 2.5 yards. The silk was $15/yd and is 44" so I'd need, what is for me, a lot of money worth of silk! The store was closing and I chickened out and put the silk back. I got out to my car and wanted to run back in for that fabric! 

I have to go in that direction on Saturday and hope it's still there. I should go early :)


  1. That is an excellent review of a pattern. I'm sorry it gave you such a headache, but the pants definitely look fixable. I've always found Burda pants to be a great fit, but that doesn't help if the instructions and pocket design is wacky! Loving the wedding outfit fabric choice too.

  2. Just wanted to let you know that I really enjoy your blog. I don't sew apparel; I'm a quilter. But your blog gives me hope that someday I might move in that direction. I also appreciate how down-to-earth you are. Keep up the good work!

  3. I appreciate the honest review! Of the three candidate patterns you showed towards the end, I thought the Vogue was the best and most flattering for you. I hope the lace is still there. $15 a yard is actually a great deal for silk and it will be an amazing dress for you! Happy weekend ahead to you and yours.

  4. I think the Burda pants are good. I was looking hard at the pattern too when I saw it. I was thinking they might look better at the ankle and cut a little narrower (is that a word?) And I agree--from the line drawing, the pockets seem nifty but I wouldn't want them too close to my crotch either.

  5. I like the burda pants! I think they look nice on you but if you don't love them, well...we all know what happens then--they really don't get worn. I agree, those pockets are in a really, really weird place!

  6. Thanks for the heads up about the crazy Burda pattern. I was tempted to make it too, but will run the other way now! I do think that they look fine on you, but I understand, it wasn't what you had envisioned. The lace is beautiful! Hope your silk is still there.

  7. Well, some pants are and some aren't meant to be. Sometimes Burda gets it really right, and sometimes really wrong. While you have got the pants looking reasonably good, the short length makes them more casual than your usual good pants. Your classic Vogues look great. And you are right, if you want a tighter fit of pant, the fabric has to have a stretch content - Otherwise you have to build in quite a few inches of ease. Good luck with the silk.

  8. Your work is always very neat. Great fit on the pants.

  9. Thanks for reviewing the burda pants. I thought I must make them when I got that issue but will rethink the pockets before I do. Love your blog


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