Saturday, November 8, 2014

A Finished Item, A Wadder and a WIP

hmmm....wadder first??

So, when the new McCalls were released, i was all excited and knew I had to make the little top in 7046.

When they went on sale last week at Hancock, I ran and grabbed this one (I didn't buy any other patterns at the sale though!)

I decided to use the not-too-nice feeling jersey from one of the recent FM orders.

This pattern has some serious negative ease! I cut a size 16 (finished bust of 37.5", mine is 39.5") and sewed 3/8" side seams. Now, I realized after the fact that this jersey isn't very stretchy...so that is a contributor, but holy smokes this thing was tight!!!

And surprisingly, short. The gathering is done from just under the bust to just before the hemline, making it a top you would not pair with low-rise pants!

Even though I knew I didn't like the fabric and probably wouldn't wear it (before I knew you could see what I ate 3 days ago), I finished it nicely. I did a rolled hem on the flutter sleeves (which I like more than I ever thought I would), serged and twin-needle stitched the hem and neckline. I was going to do a neck binding, but this fabric is pretty stable.


The fabric is pretty but is so scratchy. Wadder-ville. I will FBA it and add a bit to the side seams (because of course I cut the pattern tissue) but I WILL remake this top.

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I had a vision of color blocked 'joggers' (sweatpants) and some of my recent ponte from FM has a really nice drape to it (must be the poly/rayon/lycra and not the poly/lycra).

I hemmed and hawed over a pattern and was going to use this Burda plus size pattern from 8/2014


When I went to read the pattern into, I saw that the contrast bands were just rectangles. Ah. Not so complicated - I can do this! Using my good 'ole Simplicity 2061 pattern (which I've made 4 times previously), I cut 2 sizes smaller (size 12 vs. 16) and cut rectangles 3.5" wide. I used a 1/4" seam to connect the panels to the front and back pieces. All other seams were 5/8". 

On the pattern envelope for S2061, the band is larger as it's meant to go around the calf:


And thats how I made my fist pair:


So I didn't account for the fact that I wanted these ankle length so used the longer length of view A, but still used the bands. They kind of puddle around my ankles. My daughter says their cool so... :)



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Lastly, I decided to use my nice shirting fabric on Burda 7136.



I made both of the above before cutting the fabric for the shirt. I finally started tackling it this weekend and everything was going so well.

I did a 1/2" FBA, a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment and cut the pattern out. I got the body and collar assembled this afternoon and even did flat felled side seams (after this photo, obviously)! That was a first time technique too!



Now, I had been dragging on starting the sleeves because I've never done a tower placket before. I was afraid of it. But, I decided to get.it.done. 


Nice, right?

But you can probably tell there's a tone here, can't ya?

The damn thing is backwards. The sleeve opening is 'toward' the front. I even double checked that I didn't put the sleeve in backwards. I would be a huge liar if I said it didn't bother me and another liar if I said I was going to undo it - I will not. It's too much. 

But I don't know what to do. :(

Wear the sleeves rolled up, ignoring my awesome placket-ness? It's such a nice shirt.

wahhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

31 comments:

  1. I also made Burda 7136 and had issues with my placket although yours looks way better than mine did. I cut the sleeve just above the placket and hemmed. If it makes you feel better, I couldn't tell there was an issue until you described it in words. Your pants look fantastic and comfy too.

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    1. Thanks! Yes, I remember your nice white shirt! :)

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  2. Oh, ugh. Even though everything looks so cute (love the scratchy top--so pretty), I get it, you're all like, "why is x this way and y that way and AGH LIFE!" I have been there so many times that if I was paid a dollar for every time I felt that way I would probably be a millionaire.

    It'll be fine, I am sure, especially that pretty Burda top. Meh, backwards, don't let it bother too much. That's a damn fine placket, girl!

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  3. I really like your first top, sorry it did not quite work well for you. Your sleeve placket looks great even if it is facing the wrong way. Love the pants!

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  4. I like the first top also, the fabric is very pretty. I have the pants pattern in my stash but haven't got around to making it yet. As far as the shirt, I agree with Linda I think it would look great wearing it as it.

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    1. Thanks Lucy!

      The pants pattern is very nice for easy, comfy knit pants!

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  5. You have been so productive! As far as the placket, who's going to know except us? I wouldn't sweat it and would just keep it and move on. You did do a great job on it.

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    1. If you say so! :-D hahaha! I did finish it up and I really like the shirt so I will not let a placket deter me! I'm just going to sew ANOTHER shirt with awesome plackets!

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    2. For the last shirt, do you have enough fabric left to complete another sleeve and placket to replace the one that is off?
      also, please check your instagram- I tagged you for a question on a butterick pattern you sewed a couple of months back.

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  6. If Bunny says to leave the placket, leave the placket!

    Besides it looks too nice to redo or cut off or whatever other options you can think of.

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  7. Love both of the pants! They just look so awesomely comfy.

    And UGH. that sleeve placket!!! I would be swearing like a sailor, but would also ultimately decide that I wasn't going to try to fix it, because SHIT.

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    1. SUPER comfy!

      I was spittin' mad. The Mr. looked a little afraid when I realized something was wrong. I think he wanted to run away but I had him cornered...

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  8. aw. that stinks that it was a wadder! I loooove that pretty fabric! The pants look great! I want them today. And I'm sorry about the shirt :( I'd wear it anyway, it's a pretty shirt!

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  9. Wear the top, it is very cute and that placket is to die for! I thought I was the only one that made silly mistakes like that! The pants are awesome!

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  10. Your production rate is off the chart - wish I could keep up with you. I'm also interested in that McCall's top pattern, but will like you definitely make a muslin first.

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    1. Thanks Faye! It's a very cute top and definitely worth trying out!

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  11. Bummer about the wadder, but those pants are great, and I really love your new blouse! No one is going to notice that backwards placket unless you point it out to them.

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    1. Thanks Michelle! I just need to do the buttonholes and maybe I'll get to wear it this week!

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  12. I promise not to follow you around while you wear those backwards placket sleeves if you promise not to point out to my son that his shirts open the wrong way.

    That pretty fabric...such a shame it doesn't feel as pretty. One thing I hate about buying online; I can't fondle the goods. I've become invested in only buying fab that feels wonderful (cuts down on the impulses sometimes). Then again, it does make it easier to toss it and chalk it up to experience. I've taken to using really awful fabric for muslins so I won't be tempted to be happy with just passable results the first time. Closet's too full for that.

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    1. hahahaha! I feel like my shirts and pants always end up opening 'wrong'. But do I care? nope! So I should not care about my single incorrect placket.

      Yes, that is the risk of the online fabric shopping. I do have a very occasional issue like this, but usually I am 100% happy.

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  13. Well, I agree, pity about the wadder, but really, just call it the throw away muslin - if you had made a muslin, you would happily get rid of that - it's sort of win some, lose some. You know what to do now, the fabric was cheap, so a redo one day sounds great :)

    The slouchy pants are great (sort of thing I would wear, but I am not sure if that is a style recommendation, but if your DD says it is a great style, who are we to argue??)

    As for the placket - finish and wear, and if it bothers you too much, take off and put a long cuff on or something. You'll know what feels right when the time comes.

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    1. Thanks Sarah Liz! You are so right. If I had called it a muslin, I'd chuck it no problem. As of now, it's still sitting the cave :)

      And I agree! It's rare that she really endorses something casual like that that I've made! :)

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  14. I always get plackets backwards too! No matter how hard I try! I even did it for a custom sewing job once, and hoped that the client wouldn't notice. Luckily, the sleeves were so long that she decided to roll them up, so no one was the wiser.
    Your pants look super comfy. I bet you'll be wearing them everyday!

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  15. Sorry about the wadder...the first shirt is SO cute! I know your next version will be great. Your pants are cool!

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