Sunday, November 2, 2014

Finished Item: In House Belle Bow Blouse

I've been posting a lot the last week - sorry!  But if I have something to share...I like to share! :)

I posted 4 tops, trying to decide which I'd add to my wardrobe this month:


I really want to make that McCall's top because it kind of reminds me of the Bruyere with it's general shape ( I can change the gathers to pleats) but I really wanted the Vogue top because it made me swoon the minute I saw it. 

I cut all the pieces out for V1387 on Friday while at home (I had the day off!). I read the directions and for some reason I got scared of it! I mean really, it isn't "difficult" but I have the pattern pieces nicely arranged on the ironing board and NOT the cutting table. Boo me! 

Friday night, while waiting on trick-or-treaters, I started assembling the Belle blouse (I really dislike the pdf thing. Goodness gracious I dislike it.) I cut the pattern pieces out (sometimes I trace, sometimes I don't. This time, I didn't!) that night and sat it aside.

I didn't even have much sewing mojo Saturday and started working on the pattern later on in the day. I chose this crazy print cotton voile that I'd picked up from SR Harris earlier this year. I don't know what made me choose this, maybe just because I love voile so much? Every time I pulled it out to use it, I knew I had to choose my pattern wisely due to the print. Oh and choosing a crazy print meant mistakes could be hidden but it also meant markings would be hidden! I swear it was as if I never made any markings on the damn thing at all when it came time to sew. Grrrr!

Not feeling like making a muslin, I decided this would be a wearable muslin. And based on finished measurements, I cut a size 12.

Wait -- It is imperative to note that this top is drafted for a D cup. Can we just clap or fist pump or pelvic thrust or something about this?! No FBA. Oh. Yeah!


The pattern has shoulder gathers and release tucks at front and back. The side seam has very nice shaping too!


Do you spy my tucks?? :)

Now, you may notice that fold of fabric in back. When I finished it, it fit so beautifully and then I turned to the side and WHY!?! Where is that fold of fabric coming from?!?! I have to assume it's some major swayback issues. When I extend my back to make it straight, the fold disappears. I ended up 'raising' my tucks another 2 1/2 inches in back to eat up some of that excess fabric. Believe me that this is much better than it was initially.


Before we talk about the other technical stuff, let's see more pictures!


The instructions mentioned they produce a clean finish on the yoke. I honestly couldn't quite understand the directions but I know how to do the burrito yoke method; which is what I did.

neat-o!

The tie collar connects from the front and there is a notch their to match, and another notch at the yoke seam. Well, someone sewed from the wrong notch and had to finagle the collar in place and ended up just serging the seam. But with the tie-neck you'll never see the serged seam anyway.



The sleeves are cut on and are hemmed with a narrow hem. 


There isn't a button band but there is a facing. I find this absolutely fantastic. 


And the front piece has the little excess cut out already to make a nice, clean finish on the hem. swooooon.


 And I had these tiny buttons in stash - score.


Now that we made it through a monster post (are you still there?? helloooooo?) :)

The pdf pattern went together fairly well. There were a few spots near the end that didn't perfectly match up at the markings, so I went by the size lines. 

The pattern has 1/2" side seam allowances, the front facing attaches at 1/4", the collar is 1/4", the yoke seams are 3/8", the tie is 3/8" at cb and 1/4" for the rest. This was NOT fun. I had to make a list because like, seriously. 

I read the directions before assembling the top and then ended up still doing my own thing and made some parts more complicated than they needed to be...but it worked out! 

Ah and fabric. The pattern calls for 1 5/8 yards of 60" fabric. Maybe my fabric wasn't quite 60" (but it wasn't as short as 44/45") but there was no way I was fitting those pieces on that fabric. I will have to check it on fabric that I know is wide enough but on this fabric I could not fit the tie on the bias and ended up cutting them on the cross grain. Everything still fit together just fine, but you lose that drape that the ties would otherwise have. This fabric is quite crisp so the bow can be unruly if not tied just right. 

I've been wanting a bow front blouse for like, ever. I really like it and have visions of an ivory challis with black collar & bow. 

Also, I think I have to buy the Kimono tee too. I like the shoulder gathers and the yoke. It's officially on my wish list!




26 comments:

  1. Very cute! I really like the print.

    I bought that pattern a while back but haven't made it up yet. Probably because it's a PDF.

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    1. Thanks Niema! I think this style is definitely "you". You should try it!

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  2. Once I started using a glue stick )instead of tape) to assemble PDF patterns, I don't mind putting them together as much, might be worth a try??

    Doesn't David Coffin recommend using different seam allowances in Shirtmaking? I can only imagine the signs I would have to make for myself to keep it straight 8-). How did it work out with the collar and yoke?

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    1. I tried the glue stick. I have used lots of pdf patterns and will use them...I just don't LIKE them! hahaha!

      I've never read the David Coffin book and I can get behind narrower seam allowances for collars, cuffs, etc places where you will need to trim/grade to keep it neat. I just wish it was consistent. Either make them be 1/4" or make them be 3/8", irrespective of the side seam/hem allowance because that can be whatever.

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  3. What a beautiful blouse! Such a great pattern - if it came in B-cup, I would have bought it long ago!

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    1. Thanks Gail! You don't know how exciting it is to get a FITTED blouse and not need an FBA!!! lol!!!!

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  4. wow that is pretty. I wasn't familiar with In House and pleasantly surprised to see a pattern drafted for a D cup. I love the way the bow looks in the side view. You did a good job minimizing the issue with the back neck-to-waist length issue. I need to make that fitting adjustment too (swayback) but hey it is totally wearable!

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    1. Thank you!! I was browsing Pattern Review one day just looking at ALL the pattern companies and found this little gem. Seems like the patterns are fairly well drafted too!

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  5. In House patterns?! I have to check them out. PDF patterns are not so bad. Yea you have to put them together but you have all the sizes if you need to start over again (and no tracing which I loathe!)

    I love your fabric.

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  6. It looks great on you, and no FBA! YAY! I dislike doing adjustments. PDF patterns are icky :( I just don't have the extra patience for them. But have used a few.

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    1. Thank you!! Oh how good it felt to just sew it up!

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  7. Very pretty blouse. I have never heard of In House patterns. I had better go check them out.

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  8. Very pretty blouse and I love the print. Kudos to you for putting together a PDF pattern. I once put together one that consisted of 39 pages (ugh!). I liked the pattern but I don't know that I will do that again any time soon!

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    1. I have cute patterns that I just cannot motivate myself to sew for assembling the pdf! Blurgh!

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  9. Cute top! Oh man. Those seam allowances would make me homicidal - like in a "The Shining" kind of way. I've never heard of In House patterns either. I like that they draft for a D cup.

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    1. Thanks! Oh, was I having a rough time with it!

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  10. Love your top, and drafted for a D cup? Pelvic thrusts all around!

    Sucks you had to monkey around (as Grandma would have said) so much with the back. :\

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    1. YES! I have to try to figure out a flat pattern adjustment to 'fix' the back.

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  11. I have those two In House patterns in my 'to-do' list/pile/cargo ship for the last couple of years, to the point where I had just the photo of the Belle and had lost the pattern house or web info. I truly appreciate you going first, I will benefit greatly from your review here. The Vogue has been 'the next one' for about five projects, as I love the shoulders and just don't want to do another button down shirt. It's gonna get a full on Frankenpattern soon.

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  12. Lovely top! The bow is so pretty and feminine. I really like the In House Kimono Tee pattern as well with the yoke and gathers. Nice job!

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    1. Thanks so much! I think I have to buy that tee, pdf and all ;-)

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  13. Really pretty! I've never heard of In House patterns.

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    1. Thanks Joy! So far, I am a happy camper!

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!