I posted 4 tops, trying to decide which I'd add to my wardrobe this month:
I really want to make that McCall's top because it kind of reminds me of the Bruyere with it's general shape ( I can change the gathers to pleats) but I really wanted the Vogue top because it made me swoon the minute I saw it.
I cut all the pieces out for V1387 on Friday while at home (I had the day off!). I read the directions and for some reason I got scared of it! I mean really, it isn't "difficult" but I have the pattern pieces nicely arranged on the ironing board and NOT the cutting table. Boo me!
Friday night, while waiting on trick-or-treaters, I started assembling the Belle blouse (I really dislike the pdf thing. Goodness gracious I dislike it.) I cut the pattern pieces out (sometimes I trace, sometimes I don't. This time, I didn't!) that night and sat it aside.
I didn't even have much sewing mojo Saturday and started working on the pattern later on in the day. I chose this crazy print cotton voile that I'd picked up from SR Harris earlier this year. I don't know what made me choose this, maybe just because I love voile so much? Every time I pulled it out to use it, I knew I had to choose my pattern wisely due to the print. Oh and choosing a crazy print meant mistakes could be hidden but it also meant markings would be hidden! I swear it was as if I never made any markings on the damn thing at all when it came time to sew. Grrrr!
Not feeling like making a muslin, I decided this would be a wearable muslin. And based on finished measurements, I cut a size 12.
Wait -- It is imperative to note that this top is drafted for a D cup. Can we just clap or fist pump or pelvic thrust or something about this?! No FBA. Oh. Yeah!
The pattern has shoulder gathers and release tucks at front and back. The side seam has very nice shaping too!
Do you spy my tucks?? :)
Now, you may notice that fold of fabric in back. When I finished it, it fit so beautifully and then I turned to the side and WHY!?! Where is that fold of fabric coming from?!?! I have to assume it's some major swayback issues. When I extend my back to make it straight, the fold disappears. I ended up 'raising' my tucks another 2 1/2 inches in back to eat up some of that excess fabric. Believe me that this is much better than it was initially.
Before we talk about the other technical stuff, let's see more pictures!
The instructions mentioned they produce a clean finish on the yoke. I honestly couldn't quite understand the directions but I know how to do the burrito yoke method; which is what I did.
The tie collar connects from the front and there is a notch their to match, and another notch at the yoke seam. Well, someone sewed from the wrong notch and had to finagle the collar in place and ended up just serging the seam. But with the tie-neck you'll never see the serged seam anyway.
The sleeves are cut on and are hemmed with a narrow hem.
There isn't a button band but there is a facing. I find this absolutely fantastic.
Now that we made it through a monster post (are you still there?? helloooooo?) :)
The pdf pattern went together fairly well. There were a few spots near the end that didn't perfectly match up at the markings, so I went by the size lines.
The pattern has 1/2" side seam allowances, the front facing attaches at 1/4", the collar is 1/4", the yoke seams are 3/8", the tie is 3/8" at cb and 1/4" for the rest. This was NOT fun. I had to make a list because like, seriously.
I read the directions before assembling the top and then ended up still doing my own thing and made some parts more complicated than they needed to be...but it worked out!
Ah and fabric. The pattern calls for 1 5/8 yards of 60" fabric. Maybe my fabric wasn't quite 60" (but it wasn't as short as 44/45") but there was no way I was fitting those pieces on that fabric. I will have to check it on fabric that I know is wide enough but on this fabric I could not fit the tie on the bias and ended up cutting them on the cross grain. Everything still fit together just fine, but you lose that drape that the ties would otherwise have. This fabric is quite crisp so the bow can be unruly if not tied just right.
I've been wanting a bow front blouse for like, ever. I really like it and have visions of an ivory challis with black collar & bow.
Also, I think I have to buy the Kimono tee too. I like the shoulder gathers and the yoke. It's officially on my wish list!