Saturday, November 15, 2014

Finished Items; Burda 7136 & Vogue 9032

Because I've made V9032 already (here)...

Dear Butt Princess Seams, how do I love thee?
Let me count the ways!

I really love this pants pattern and must refrain from making 18 pairs of the same pants. This time I used a poly/rayon/lycra suiting fabric from Fabric Mart (here). It takes a press well, has some drape but is not at all wrinkly. It was $4/yd and I like the color and it behaved well during washing, drying and construction - win!

I made no changes (intentionally) from the last pair. I was cruising right along and then realized I was supposed to put the zipper in AFTER the pockets. Because the pockets are 'caught' in the zipper area. So I had to do some rigging. But I mean...that's the inside so... :-)

Serger was loaded with grey and white so the inside is finished with grey and white! I did not do the bias tape on the facing. I really love that little feature but it feels so time consuming.

The deep hem I LOVE!!! It provides such a nice weight to the pants.




And I finished my shirt! yay!!




I decided to cut a size 14 which had a finished bust of 41" and do a FBA of 1/2" - for a finished bust of 42". I thought that would be plenty of room. I have diagonal lines so I am thinking I needed maybe a bit more length over the bust. I made a narrow shoulder adjustment of 1/2".

I measured the sleeve and could have sworn I was 'okay' with the bicep width but they are a bit snug there.

Those dang blasted pockets.

I wanted them but now I want to rip them off. Bleh. The real issue is my sloping left shoulder (which I never account for because I know I should kinda make a separate front pattern piece and fix it but that's too much like right!). When my shoulders are relaxed; the pocket droops/slopes! Grrr!

There are wrinkles in the back which honestly don't bother me :oops:! I hope the fit police don't get me.


I LOVE it tucked in, but I rarely wear my shirts tucked so...

I realized my sleeve placket doesn't bother me. It makes me chuckle every time I realize it's backwards. Like, it's not an ever-present "OMG MY SLEEVE PLACKET IS BACKWARD" thing...

What's really funny is that on the correctly done sleeve placket, I ended up doing the buttonhole on the wrong side! hahahaha!!!!!

I started unpicking the stitches and then thought, 'ahh, what the heck. The button will cover most of it' and I left it.

What else...
*The sleeve went in perfectly and I am almost wondering if there is too little sleeve cap ease.
*The cuffs are a bit narrow (someone, Graca??, mentioned this. Like there isn't even 1/4" to seam the sides of the cuffs, it's weird.
*The placket has 5/8" seams which is just too much. I was surprised this wasn't pared down to something more manageable
*The sleeve length was perfect for me. But I have somewhat long arms for my height. When I made B5678 and all my 8,013 M6844 cardigans I added 1" to the sleeves.
*I didn't follow the placement suggestion for pockets or buttons cause...Boobs.
*I used darker thread for my buttonholes for some contrast - I like it.
*Fabric is some crazy nice shirting from Fabric Mart, bought with ma' winnings. Woot! (the photo showing the buttonholes is closest to the true color)

First time doing plackets, SUPER proud of my edge stitching, 
clean finished yoke and nicely set sleeve!


This was also my first time doing a flat-felled seam! And umm...unless I make a shirt for one of the dudes, I probably won't do it again. So fiddly. So. So. Fiddly. I did not enjoy that process at all. 

Something weird happened at the collar. I don't know if I accidentally cut a size 16 collar or what but it was as I was trimming the seams that I realized I shouldn't have bulk where I was cutting. Well, that's because my collar comes all the way to the end of the collar stand (vs ending 1/2" or so away). It also doesn't bother me. I will double check things for next time though.

When I first got my machine, I made buttonholes. Like that same day! I was amazed that you can make buttonholes!!! and they were pretty good. Eventually, I started to realize my machine does not make very nice buttonholes and they were coming out uneven and pretty janky.

I was going to go to a sewing store that has an open sewing night and use of their machines for the buttonholes but they had no open sewing FOR THE ENTIRE QUARTER (insert mock outrage!). 

Lo and behold my machine stitched some pretty freaking awesome buttonholes. I wanted to hug it or pet it or give it cookies - something. And all 11 of them are perfect. Perfectly consistent buttonholes.

51 comments:

  1. You rocked both shirt and pants Nakisha! Awesome fit!
    .

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  2. Looks good, very good job on the shirt!

    Just wondering about the FBA - do you think those diagonal drag lines are always indicative of the need for one? I'm trying to figure out if I need one or not but there's no resource out there which says when an FBA should be attempted!

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    1. Thanks Laura! I thought that. And then a little bit of research says it can sometimes be issues with the armscye. So I wonder if that tightness at the sleeve is pulling/causing the lines? Unsure.

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    2. Oh and if you are using commercial patterns (especially Big4) and are above a B cup; then you choose based on your high bust measurement and do an FBA.

      Like, my high bust is 36" but full bust is 39.5". I choose a size 14 (so it will fit neck/shoulders properly) and do an FBA.

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  3. $4 score!!! Those look so much more expensive :D You have really achieved the perfect pant fit and I'm jealous! ;-) But congrats to you. The top looks great too, both untucked and tucked.

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    1. Thanks!! I really like the fabric!!

      I was practically dancing when I first muslined these pants!

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  4. I get those diagonal drag lines sometimes, too, but I haven't figured out what causes it yet. It seems to happen on some woven garments even when I know that I have more than enough bust ease from a sizable FBA. On me, it seems like it happens on wovens that are a little more fitted through the hip, and I *think* it has something to do with the fabric going from one protuding area (my bust) to another protruding area (my butt), and it's sort of getting hung up on my high hip/butt. I don't know how to fix it, though. I don't tend to get those lines with princess seams, though, FWIW.

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    1. Yep. Could be due to other things. I had thought that it always points to 'needing more bust room'; but seems like that isn't always the case.

      It feels comfy though so I'm gonna wear it!! :-D

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  5. Nakisha--you rock!! Beautiful pieces with such professional detailing. A few quirks, but hey, they keep us ever learning on the journey. Yes, I think an FBA may be needed to get rid of the drag lines-- or you could go with a size 16 to get more fitting ease in your upper body. I have really considered making (butt) princess seamed pants for myself. After seeing your two pair it seems the way to go for tailored pants, especially using a stretch woven fabric. Again, winner, winner, chicken dinner!

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    1. Thank you Robin!

      Totally give the pants a try if you get your hands on this pattern!

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  6. I love both and think they flatter you well. If you can get a flat fell foot for your sewing machine, consider snapping one up. Sewing them with the special foot is not fiddly, It's magic.

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    1. Thanks so much!

      Sooooo I googled and HOLY COW!!!! THAT'S AMAZING! Hahaha! I need a flat fell foot and a bias binding foot attachment! Who knew these things existed!?!?

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  7. Gawwwgeous! You can never have too many pairs of well fitting pants. I'm up to 7 with another 4 in process. Not once has anyone ever said, "didn't you wear those yesterday?".
    On the shirt, I like the pockets, nice touch. The diagonal lines? I've cured mine by making the shoulders more square. It could be pulling towards the shoulder point more than the bust point.

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    1. Thanks Becki! Agreed. I will fill my closet with pants that I love. <3

      oooh, thanks on the other option for diagnosing the lines.

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  8. Lovely outfit! It looks perfect for the office. Your pressing is so crisp!

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    1. Thank you so much!! I was lucky to pick up the 'press, press, PRESS!" instruction when I first started sewing ;-)

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  9. Great job on both .looks great on you..Happy sewing.

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  10. Despite the challenges you did a great job.

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  11. I'm like you - I have a sloping shoulder too (years of wearing a heavy bag) and a higher hip - so nothing quite hangs right, but I don't worry about it too much - we don't stand in front of camera's all day checking out our incorrectly hanging garments all day do we? Our garments are in motion, and so are we, so no-one will notice. I only alter if I think it is important.

    Love the pants too - I'm going to try that pattern during our next autumn.

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    1. Thanks! You are right...we are moving and bending and sitting and reaching and...

      You should definitely give them a try!

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  12. Great job. Girl you are a sewing machine for real!

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  13. Nice shirt and pants. Great fit and great sewing too.

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  14. The only time I've ever sewn a sleeve placket and flat-felled seams was on a Negroni shirt for my husband. I enjoyed the challenge and learning something new...but I've never done it again :)

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    1. Definitely not a "must-do" like hand-sewn hems have become. If I never flat-felled again I would not be sad ;-)

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  15. Awesome job! Your shirt is very impressive!!!!

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  16. Replies
    1. Thank you!! And I can dance in them.

      I won't tell you how I know! :-)

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  17. Nice pants and top. Mistakes and all they are still nice.

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  18. These are awesome! What a great outfit you have! :)

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  19. Looking good!

    Always good to remember that our clothes are 4D - fitting around a moving body, across the day.

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  20. everything looks so good! I have a pants pattern with butt princess seams, and love the fit. I may need to dig that out and sew it again!

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    1. YES! I am really thinking I should whip these up in a few more fabrics!

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  21. Great garments, Nakisha. You did a beautiful job.

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  22. Okay Nakisha. You twisted my virtual arm and convinced me to buy V9032. I think we're similarly shaped and I like how these pants fit you. I am not a fan of slant pockets (shudder), but I am willing to give it a try if my pants fit like that! The inside looks nice and professional too.

    Good job on your plackets. I have to try this pattern as well.

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    1. YAY! Go and conquer!

      I don't like the slash pockets either. I keep meaning to work up a couple other pants patterns with different pocket styles and see if I can alter the front of these. They are ok but never flat. Ever.

      One of my favorite pair of RTW has welts starting at the waistband seam and that seems to work really well. The area is flat but the pockets are usable. My iPhone fits easily.

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  23. HOLD THE PHONE. Butt princess seams? My backside has been begging for this my whole life! It makes so much sense. Why, oh why has it taken me this long to learn about this?! I have to go buy this pattern immediately. Thank you!!!

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    1. EXACTLY!!! hahahaha! I feel so happy now that I have butt princess seams!!!!!! :-))

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  24. This is my most favorite outfit of yours ever (ok, maybe not ever)!!! It looks SO good together! Nice job!

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  25. This is a very nice looking blouse. I love Burda tops!

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Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!