FABRIC (a whole bunch of it)!!!!

In the wise words of Carolyn, I will let the photos speak...

hahaha!

I went off the deep end. I got my FabricMart money and placed two orders, and then I went HAM!

Order 1 arrived:

And I was all...ooooooh. pretty.

A DREAMY cotton shirting in blue, a cotton plaid shirting, a beautifully bright printed twill bottomweight, cotton voile, A lightweight striped sweater knit, and the tribal sweater knit that has already been sewn!

(If you don't do this, I highly recommend that after petting your new fabric you wash them so they can be ready to sew when you feel like it!)

Thennnn, order 2 arrived! Remember the suiting sale? Uh-huh.

A windopane plaid and an inky black - both wool blends

grey on grey pin stripe and a linen blend

a grey herringbone (ready to become V9032!)

A light pinstripe. I'm unsure about this one. It'll have to grow on me in the stash

This fabric makes me HAPPY! I have 4.5 yards of it. I want slim pants and a slim fitting blazer. That will wait for spring.

Orders 2 and 3 are blurred because like, I ordered 2 days apart and they arrived on the same day.

I bypassed this fabric twice and then Ann sewed it up here. I immediately called to add 2 yards to my order! Yay me!

Rayon challis that is friggin amazing! I bought this to make pajamas.

Love. Love. Love. This will sit until summer but it's an ITY that has a bold black/white grid print and then the floral pattern over it. It's so pretty!

I bought this to make the Belle Bow blouse but I think it's too similar in overall scheme to what I made. It will find a pattern at some point, I'm sure.

I love chambray and at $2.99 I snatched up a healthy amount of this one. 

I like the print but somehow the fact that it is a burnout escaped me. It will be used, just not for what I thought.

This jersey doesn't feel nice :( Sad because it's such a pretty print. I'm going to sew up a new pattern with it. If it's wearable, we'll see if I can tolerate the scratchy feeling. If it is not wearable well, no love lost.

Can we just back track a bit? 

I knew I wanted to make new (pretty) pajamas and when the "unique prints" kept going on sale I decided to snatch some up for pjs. I thought this border print would be so cool...have the top transition between prints 1 and 2 and the shorts between prints 2 and 3. So I chose that rayon challis.

And it came.

And I opened it up.

And, OH MY GOSH! This fabric is absolutely gorgeous! 

From Fabric Mart's site (FOUND HERE)

I just want to STARE at it!!! :-) I wish I had like 5 more yards of it! Once I touched it all I could envision was a gorgeous kimono style robe. DRATS!

Some of these will be stashed until their turn arrives...others will become garments like, NOW!!

I think November will be a bit slower for me than most months, but that's okay. I have like 12 days off at the end of the year and will make up for it then ;-)

Fabric Mart Fabricista Challenge: Week 3

I was pretty dang nervous when I got Julie's email about this week's challenge. I have always had a "mmhmm" toward the copying of RTW garments. But I was motivated by the prize for this week. fabric. free fabric.  I actually had INSTANT ideas. There were three options; my Converse One-Star jacket that I wear like crazy, a knit top that I have worn to death, and a jacket that I have loved since I bought it and can no longer fit.

The Converse jacket was choice number 1. But it had rivets and snaps and tons of details that I just couldn't copy, source materials for and sew in a few days. So I dug out the size 6 Jones New York jacket (you all KNOW I am not a 6 and haven't been since...at least since I got married!).

I was pretty excited because I thought this will be a piece of cake! There are princess seams! No lapels! easy, peasy! Famous Last Words.

So I started tracing and got the body traced off. I measured and graded them up to my size

I cut a muslin out of this sad poly fabric

It fit through the body well but the shoulders and armholes were HUGE. HUGE. i started pinching out fabric and what not and (holy crooked facing) then...then I set in the sleeve.
Fail. Fail. Fail. I have never sewn a 2 piece sleeve and it's hard to trace off and yeah. THAT didn't go well. I consulted resources but I just did not know how to fix it.

At this point it was 10 p.m. and I'd put a good 7 hours into this project and I had to throw in the towel or I would have nothing to show!

My husband tried to convince me to copy this Mossimo dress and I like the dress but I just don't need several lined dresses (I have been determined during this contest to sew things that I will actually wear afterwards.). Plus, the fabric that I'd gotten for the jacket from the wool remnant section at SR Harris was actually 100% poly. Booo! The original jacket is 50/50 linen/cotton and it feels pretty dreamy. So fail after fail.

So what do you do?

Plan B.

I wore this outfit to run errands and go to the salon on Saturday. Ironing the top, I saw all the past shine spots from a too-hot iron...the tiny pin-prick holes that have developed...the faded color and decided Plan B should have been Plan A all along.

I love this top.

I love the way it fits. I love the narrow waist and fitted hip. I love how it hugs but isn't tight. I decided I should totally own another (or two) of these so that I can retire this one!

Poor top. 

I used the same stabby pin method (Tech term Dina!) to copy the pattern.

The front is cut on the fold, the back has a seam. I made sure to fold it at center and traced off the front and back pieces. There are several ways to do this but I like the paper on top. This way I create a line with my pin oricks but also by indenting the paper. The curves were finished off with my French curve. 

I took advantage of the copying to shorten it a bit and to make the arms slightly larger near the hem. I also shaped the center back seam a bit so I would have less pooling.

I added 3/8" seam allowances with 5/8" at the neckline so I could do a "turn and stitch" like the original.

My pattern

What's that little triangle you say?

I NEVER cut rectangular pattern pieces. Instead I measure them and then use a ruler/rotary cutter to cut them out for more precision.

The original is rayon lycra knit and has that lovely springiness. I actually have two cuts of rayon lycra that I picked up recently from SR Harris and one is a teal blue. -But- I knew I was going to make Vogue 1411 out of this berry colored ponte and my fabric choice was sealed.

I used this "paint splatters" jersey from Fabric Mart. I picked it up on my last jumbo knit order and it was a perfect match to my pants fabric!!!

That's a happy lady!

LOVE IT!! Dare I say, MORE than the original!!!

Vs. the original:

TWINSIES!

My jersey doesn't have as good a recovery as the original rayon Lycra knit. 

The wider sleeve hems are nice because I can push it further up my arm now. 

Neckline finished with a twin needle. 

It's a great copy and again, I am so thankful for this contest to attempt something I've not had the guts to do!!! I have actually ordered another cut of fabric to make a solid one. 

I could not WAIT to wear this outfit! I don't know what's up with me and shades of red lately but I'm rollin with it!

I got off work Monday and ran home to pick up my daughter and change into this outfit. I'm at my son's football game here (hey, it's halftime!).

Well, minutes after this, one of the coaches came over and asked me to come with him.

huh?

On the last play, my son took a big hit, blacked out, came to(!!) but was dizzy and unstable. Several hours in the ER later, he's okay, the concussion is mild and he's benched for a week minimum or until the symptoms subside. WHEW! I think I sprinted across that field in record time!!

Now, don't tell anyone that I'm also wearing the shirt to work today with tan pants. Heh, I love it!!!!

VOTE HERE

Voting is open through tomorrow, 25 September!

**Pants are Vogue 1411. I will write a separate post reviewing the pattern.

WIP: V8839 and Fabric Mart Fabricistas Challenge

I'm safe! I knew Ann would win and she deserved it! Read up here!  Did you guys catch that we both made eggplant dresses to wear for our anniversary?!

Unfortunately, Jess was "sent home". :-(  I'm going to miss her! If you could only see our inboxes! :) I still love her shirt and she's an amazing seamstress and you totally need to follow her if you don't already!

I'm starting to think someone got inside of my head and decided I had to compete in this contest! I'm not much for "interpreting" patterns; yet week 1 required just that! I've scared myself out of making a fitted, lined dress and of course, that's exactly what I did week 2! Week 3 is all about copying a RTW garment.

Cheese and Rice.

I've seen people talk about it...I've seen the painter's tape method, the stabby pin method, the silk organza method...I tried to trace a simple tshirt with CUT-ON sleeves once(!!) and got all 'blurgh, this is crazy' about it. So of course...

But I'm excited about this challenge because I knew right away what I wanted to make! Yay!!!

Look for the post on Tuesday with my 'make'!

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Now, yes, I am a crazy person. I have so many things that I want to sew that I managed to work in between finishing my dress and getting the new challenge.

I'm working on Vogue 8839, a Marcy Tilton cardigan/jacket.

 

More firsts...I've never done any sort of color-blocking before!

I'm actually much closer to being finished with it; all of those pieces on the ironing board are attached to each other and to the jacket! :) But holy cow is it big. I knew that the pieces were boxy and the line drawing shows it's a straight side seam and it's big on the model...But I've got to take in the side seams some and shorten the sleeves (like 2 inches!). I am thinking that the large was too big and I should've chosen the medium.

I have 8000 things going on this weekend, again. So I shall be Ms. Crazy Sewing Lady, once again.

Finished Item: Butterick 6104

I don't have great pics, sorry! I don't know why this haze is present!

Butterick 6104 is the only pattern from the latest release that I had to have. It has several views which gives different collar and length options,  princess seams, and is fully lined. 

Initially I freaked out and was all 'IT'S LINED TO THE EDGE!! WAHHHH!!!' but the front piece of the lining is cut from the fashion fabric.

Still deciding on closures...probably go with large sew-on snaps

I think part of the diagonal wrinkles are due to the lower left side of my body

I'll never wear the neck up like it is on the pattern envelope and like letting the collar just fall. Either it comes up higher than it appears on the pattern or I have a short neck. Whatevs.

I bagged the lining using Grainline's tutorial again. It's genius. I don't like hand sewing and don't mind the sleeve lining having visible stitching. I cut the sleeve lining 1/2" shorter than the sleeve and then used a 3/8" seam allowance.

I mentioned in my last post that I did a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment, lowered the front princess seams 1/2" (they could be another 1/2" lower). 

I used flannel cut in 2 1/2" strips on the bias for sleeve heads. When I used fleece in my other Butterick jacket, it felt a little too full. But this flannel is too thin. Ahhh. The sleeves went into the armholes beautifully. Thank. Goodness. 

I was pretty excited about this pattern until I reminded myself that I would have to sew alllllll those seams again in the lining. Bleh. Front and back princess seams, side seams, shoulder seams, all the peplum seams, sewing the peplum to the body, the sleeves. GOOD GRIEF! But the princess seams work so nicely that it's worth it!

Next time I'm going to do a slight swayback adjustment -- it looked good when I pinched out about 3/4" and pinned it. The back was nice and smooth. I will probably also cut the first peplum piece in the fashion fabric too.

Fashion fabric is a cotton/wool blend from FabricMart, lining is poly pongee in a pale blush pink.

Can we just talk a minute about fabric?

So, I sewed my floral S1696 pants in a 100% cotton. Then I sewed my S1803 dress in 100% cotton. Then I sewed the S2153 vest in 100% cotton. And this is a cotton/wool blend.

OHMYGOSH. EVERYTHING should be sewn with cotton!!! :)

Just sooooo easy to cut, mark, sew, press. Ahhhhhh

I thought this fabric was 100% cotton until I went to double check the date (Pattern Review fabric stash contest is running). That's when I saw that it was cotton/wool. Yes, it frays but holy cow was it well behaved!

I am taking a 2 day hiatus from sewing (yes, me) until the next challenge is announced -- assuming I make it to week 2!

Ciao!

WIP...and Stuff

Blogger.

Ugh. I think it's time to move platforms. I get that it's free but even if you're offering something for free (and you're GOOGLE), it should work. Seriously. 

Does anyone know if you get any better service when you have a paid site through Blogger? 

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We got our first challenge yesterday! We are to make a basic pattern...not-so-basic.

This challenge is actually going to be tough for me! Mainly because I'm not an embellisher. I just don't really have that type of eye. Secondly because I've avoided the Scout like the plague!  A dartless, pleatless, gatherless woven tee is scary when you have a full bust! So I'm kicking around some ideas to create a cute, one of a kind top that I'd love to wear. Wish me luck! :)

Read all about it here

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My jacket is progressing. I made a few tweaks to the pattern but perhaps it's not enough. The shoulder still looks a little too wide (maybe it'll improve when the lining is inserted?) and the bust point looks a little too high still.

(sorry to chop my head off...I looked crazy in this pic!)

Looking in the mirror, it appeared as if I had TONS of excess fabric in the middle of my back. So glad I finally got someone to take pictures...it isn't as bad as I thought. I'm guessing this is a swayback adjustment needed?? Also, I always forget about my lower left shoulder. Sure, I could cut two fronts but we know that's not going to happen. I usually just sew a slightly larger shoulder seam and "fix" it that way.

Does anyone know what to do about this little 'dead space' at the back of my upper arm? Is there a sleeve adjustment for this or is it just the way I'm standing? I'm not sure...

I had it on with a long sleeved knit tee to be sure multiple layers works. it was fine. I think the sleeve is a little full (from the bicep down) and perhaps shorten the sleeve hem just a tiny bit more (the right sleeve hem is pinned up).


Also, if you look at the front and back pics, the right sleeve is wonky!!! :) I set it first and thought it was pretty good...until I set the left one. It went in darn near perfectly and now ALL I can see is the right sleeve wonkiness! I'm going to be a good seamstress and rip it out and reset it.

 

ahhhh. The joy of finding PERFECTLY matched thread. Do you see red stitches?!? Me neither! LOL!

Now, I WILL wear this jacket as-is but I am also treating it as a wearable muslin. I love this pattern so far and want to make the view A (without contrasting lapels) and view D as-is for a lightweight fall coat. So I want to hash out the fitting issues.

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Jess of Sometimes Sewist is hosting Sew Selfless September! Now, when I started blogging I really wanted to call myself "the selfish seamstress" but she already existed (and should come back already!). The idea is to pledge to sew something for someone else this month. I do sew for my daughter here and there but think that this month I'll try "sewing for the boys" too.

She wanted a makeup bag but I pretty much have done horribly at making any sort of zippered bag/pouch/etc. So I was hesitant.

I found this tutorial by Flossie Tea Cakes and whaddya know! It worked!!

 

DD picked it all out after I gave her a pile of quilting cottons and the zipper basket to choose

Even with minor wonkiness I was SO proud that I immediately wanted to make another one!

For this one, I used this tute by Sew Mama Sew. I made it err, a little bigger... :) **I just realized I missed a step. I was thinking "this doesn't stand on it's own"...I forgot to do that part! If I can pry it away from her I might change it. Or just sew ANOTHER one! :)

 

I picked out this combo and she loved it.

I REALLY love these two together. I hope to get some more green zippers from Wawak and whip up a few of these for my nieces (I have like a thousand nieces! Ok...I have 8. But 3 of them are ADULTS. Sheesh!!)

Also, today is my parents 40th anniversary. YOWZA!  Love those two :-D

Forcing the Mojo

Can sometimes be dangerous territory. In this case; I need to. I have TOO many things that I need to get started on to wallow in mojo-less land.

Last night I forced myself to sit at the machines and I actually got some stuff done!

DD got her tshirt hemmed and really likes it except it "makes her feel naked". This one...It's floaty and *just* the right length and it has the loose sleeves. All things she asked for...but she wants a black bandeau to wear underneath; but not a tank top because that's too much. Sigh...

I had 1 yard of this fabric and she got a top WITH sleeves from it! I really loved this when I got it so of course she did too; and she took it from me. It's almost a "digital" floral in that it has these horizontal lines through the fabric.

The pattern had bands on the sleeves and bottom but she didn't want those. Now, she is tall but she's all legs. Her torso is "normal" length but she then has a 34" inseam! So this view of the top would probably be WAY short on someone else who is 5'8" but more proportional. I like that it's a 'barely' cropped top and think it really suits her.

I attached the binding flat and used a double needle on the neckline and sleeve/bottom hem. I am now seeing how well raglan sleeves fit her (wide shoulders) and how they don't work for me (narrow shoulders). Sigh...again. :)

My kimono is waiting to be finished.
My red pants are in progress.
Style Arc Issy knit top pattern is traced off and ready to cut (I'd like to wear that this weekend so I'd better get started!!)

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I'm going to throw my name in the hat for the Fabric Mart Fabricistas challenge!

 

I'm "scared" but I think it would be fun if I were to be selected. But I'd totally have time to sew all the things because it'll be football season! LOL! So, fingers crossed!

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I FINALLY wore my ponte blazer -aka- the Masters Jacket and swooooooon. I love the color, the fit and the ease of wear. C'MON FALL!!!! 

 

Excuse the bathroom 'selfie'.