Finished: New Look 6123

I previously sewed this in October 2014 for week 2 of the Fabric Mart challenge. I made a muslin and everything! I made it a second time later that month in ponte. When I went to my cousin's wedding last month, I wore the puple version and fell in love with the dress all over again.

I decided my polka-dot chambray would become another NL6123 vs S8014 (even though I love that pattern).

Both of my previous versions used the pleated skirt and I wanted to make the straight skirt this time. I pulled out the pattern and I had traced ALL of the pattern pieces. So I felt compelled to trace the other pieces this time and I'm glad I did. I didn't realize this pattern is now OOP. Boooo!

V.1 was lined and v.2 was a knit so I hadn't used the facings. I will say I find them just a bit shallow. I also want to raise the neckline a little - like 1/2". I am okay with a little cleavage during daytime, it's my tattoo that I prefer to cover up. Sidenote: I am totally going to look into laser removal. I don't hate it, I just hate the location now! But there's some tricky business to removing tattoos from brown skin so you have to find someone experienced.

Anyway. I used the facing as-is after having made changes to the bodice. So I have this happening on the inside...Oops.

Note to self: Add an inch to the facing! :-p

I assumed (oops) that the bodice was a 14 but it was a 16 and I traced the size 14 facings. Doh! I stitched them down which thankfully isn't visible because of the crossover.

Also, trying to preserve whatever amount of this fabric I could, I ended up cutting my skirt fronts too close to an edge that had a scissor snip. I interfaced it and took the seam a tiny bit deeper. Fingers crossed it stays put!

I made no other changes to the pattern from the original make.

• Shortened bust dart (moved the point 'back')
• Narrow shoulder adjustment
• Gaping armhole adjustment
• Removed width from center back tapering to nothing at waist
• Swayback adjustment
• Full butt adjustment

I could stand to add a tiny bit to the cap sleeve - maybe 1/2". I used an invisible zipper and topstitched the hem. I also tacked the facings down at the shoulder seams.

Matching at the top of the zipper

Matching the waist seam and darts

Really digging the vent and my red serger thread!!!! <3

The chambray cut, sewed and pressed as beautifully as cotton chambray does! Such a breeze to sew!

We're officially into fall here in Minneapolis and dusk arrives earlier. Plus the past 2 weekends have been crammed. I have had no time to photograph the gazillion finished garments I have.

I haven't been feeling well and am working from home today and figured I would FINALLY get this dress blogged (it's been finished since end of August/very early September). So I look haggard but just look past that. Okay? LOL!

These boots were the only shoes upstairs besides flip-flops...

I've really working out the fit for my back/butt on the CB seam!

You'll see (as do I now!) that my side seam is curved. I need more butt room (horizontally). Also, I've worn this twice already so the chambray has bagged out a bit in the seat. I'm sure it'll be fine when it's washed/dried.

***********************
DDs sweatshirt turned out SO CUTE! Again, we were jam packed when she was here so I didn't get photos of it on her...or even the completely finished garment. Her Thursday's are a bit more open so hopefully she can get a friend to snap a few for me.

I was going to add decorative side seam zippers but the style lines and the super-duper drapey fabric made it a no go. The sweatshirt sort of collapses on itself and the zippers made it stiff.

I used Burda 1/2016 oversized hoodie with hi-low hem. I used a size 36, view A (the other views are longer and have pleating or gathering in the back). I ended up adding a band to the hem instead of hemming it.

I made the gathers in front and attached the hood via serger. And turned it out and saw this:

Oh. Well then...

I unpicked from the bad gathering on the right as viewed to the other side and reattached via sewing machine (yeah, I learn sometimes...) and was  able to get the hood in correctly (fronts touching).

This is before the bands were sewn

I tried it on because it is pretty oversized and it looked weird (probably because it's still way small for me). Saturday morning she came to show me the sweatshirt on her body and I swear it was THE cutest thing. I said with leggings, she said "with huge pants!". Ahhhh to be 18 again.

Wait...well, no. No thank you! Maybe 26...lol!!!

So many things to do yet. I have my September Burda in under the wire (needs hems), DD needs a black gown for concert performances. Because I am smart sometimes, I am making the non-fancy version of her prom dress (e.g., no lace, no illusion, no tulle, etc). And I am making the bodice with a stretch velvet. New-to-me fabric but I think I'll be okay. Oh and did I mention she needs this for her concert on October 8th? And I'm joining the PR outerwear contest and sewing the Clare coat from Closet Case Files. Plus the other stuff I want to sew.

WHEW!

Drapey Cardigan Battle: Jalie 2919 vs Swoon Scarf Neck

I had the Jalie cardigan in my fall plans and was excited to sew it up in the wool jersey I've been hoarding for awhile. I snagged a 3.5 yard cut for $22 total last summer and knew it would be used for a cardigan. I made McCall's 6696 from wool jersey and I adore that cardigan. It is so lightweight while being nice and warm and it just feels good on.

I don't know how I found out about the Swoon cardigan but when I saw that Westmoon had sewn it up I was eager to give it a shot.

I printed it out, no problem there and then it gets a little funky. Honestly, Westmoon covered it all in her review here.

1. There aren't lines for trimming the pages. The pattern pieces are tiled, and it does need to be trimmed, but there aren't lines for trimming
2. The box to check scale is hidden well into the pattern vs being on the instruction page or early on
3. The pattern is laid out really weirdly and is a paper hog
4. The half sleeve is weird. Sleeves cut on the fold are weird
5. The instructions. omg. Just, no. I mean, it's fairly intuitive but the instructions are just a no. French seam a knit? No, no, no.

Once you get past the minor annoyances (which are minor only because it is a free pattern. If I had paid, I would not be a happy camper about those things), it is a REALLY sweet pattern!!! 

I used a poly/rayon jersey knit from Fabric Mart. I really love this 'pattern/print' and it matches well with my existing wardrobe. It went together quickly and fits beautifully!

I sewed a size large and made no other adjustments. The princess seam hits in the right place, the collar drapes nicely, and the symmetrical sleeve works because the shoulder is slightly dropped.
(silly symmetric sleeve...I serged the sleeve on backwards and had to unpick the serger stitches. Booo!)

Many mentioned the sleeves were long; I am glad I didn't shorten them. I sewed a 1 1/4" hem and they are perfect. Lastly, I did a double turned hem (using Steam a Seam light and then topstitched), but did not hem the drape front. It really doesn't need to be hemmed. 

On the Jalie, I traced a size Y with the length of Q. Many had remarked about the length and I didn't want it too long. 

1. This pattern also has a weird 'cut on the fold' half sleeve. I don't like that!
2. MARK THE LINES! Please mark them. I only marked the top and end point and ended up getting off on some of them. 

I'd seen the pattern done both ways: where the tucks are outside and where they are inside. I wanted them to show so I pressed a crease, wrong sides together, and stitched at 3/8" for all 4. The wool knit takes a press beautifully. 

These sleeves are really long. After sewing it up, I removed 1.5" and hemmed it at 1 1/4".  I also did a double turned hem on this one.

So which pattern "wins"?

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

L: Swoon; R: Jalie

I prefer the Swoon drape over the Jalie

I prefer the integrated collar/drape of the Swoon over the attached collar of the Jalie

I like the length of the Swoon more (but that's an easy fix on the Jalie)

I prefer the front hem of the Jalie

I need a little more butt room in the Swoon - I will do that via slash and spread

The Jalie shoulder feels too long and the armpit too low

The wool knit is amazing to wear but...

The Swoon wins for me! 

I prefer it hands down and my fun black burnout knit will also become a Swoon cardigan! It just feels better on, even though the Jalie is done in yummy wool knit. I predict that and the color will cause the Jalie to get more wear than I'd expect. I have LOTS of blue in my wardrobe but no jacket or cardigan in a neutral tan/brown. I used to have a M6844 in a similar color but the fabric pilled like crazy and it didn't hang around in the wardrobe very long.

The outtake:

He's always in my photos.

Not *too* Boring Basics: Butterick 5760

versions 5 and 6... :) Hey, that's what TNT's are for!!!

I'm at the point where I really need to retrace this pattern onto something nice and sturdy, it's starting to look a little beat up.

As per usual, I cut a 16 front and 18 back. I removed the excess fabric from the front skirt that is supposed to be gathered. The side seams are always basted before being sewn - different fabrics or if it's lined or unlined affects the fit. Both of these are unlined, they're both sateen with a slight stretch, so both have 5/8" side seams until just after the hip and it increases to 1-1 1/4". I haven't adjusted the pattern for the pegging - even though I often peg it - because you just never know. I do like the skirt in it's original width, it just depends on the fabric I'm using...and it doesn't take much to tweak side seams.

The one thing I DO need to change on the pattern is the hip curve. I don't need that much curvature and always remove it.

I finished the panel-print sateen skirt 2 weeks ago. Honestly...where does the time go!?!  I'm sure some of you have seen this Maggy London sateen 'in the wild'. I passed on it twice and then saw a dress made up on PR and the next time it went on sale I managed to snag a panel.

I *just* eeeked out my skirt with the single panel!!!

just scraps remain!

I tried to match at the side seams as best I could.

I ended up having to cut the facings from a different fabric. I rummaged through the scrap bin and used this lightweight suiting (I made a bias cut skirt from Burda mag with it last year). It is white/black on one side and black/white on the other.

I went with an invisible zipper and topstitched hem.

The color is really 'me'. I have a few tops in my wardrobe that I can pair this with. I love it with this coral tee (Target) and my new jacket.

My son was in the room while I was taking photos and he had me laughing the entire time. You can see how terrible my posture is on this back photo :/ Also, it is a "sensitive time" and I seriously look 4 months pregnant about 2 days a month. I always manage to want to photograph something fitted during this time! LOL!!! 

Because olive is one of my favorite colors, I have plans to add a few more items in this color to the wardrobe. This fabric is closer to a moss/ivy green but it's in the family, and that works for me! :)

When I made these olive pants I was surprised by how versatile the color is. That led me down a path of wanting all the olive things! :)

And they fit better now! :-p

For this skirt, I wasn't as smart as I was with the floral one. The fabric is narrower so I ordered 1 1/4 yard. On the floral skirt I cut front, waistband, then back.  This time I cut front, waistband, facings then...uh oh. I can't fit my back piece because of the vent. I moved things around, over and over and in the end I had to cut single layer and eliminate the vent. But it worked out! Whew!

I am all for serging the edge of facings but I had a bit of red bias tape to match my serger thread, Oh and on this one I went for a centered zip and again...topstitched hem

I forgot to serge the back seams before sewing the zipper. Arrrgh!

(this is closer to the true color than the photo above)

Yep! It's love! I think I will be pulling this out A LOT this fall, even though this sateen wrinkles if you think about maybe looking at it! :-p

*********************

This month I jumped into the trends and sewed a bomber jacket for my Fabric Mart project! In a crazy printed ponte - and I love it!

It's a Burda pattern -- which Burda's consistency and fit make up for their awful instructions to me! I cut my normal 40 neckline / 42 for the rest but since I used ponte and the pattern was intended for satin, I left off the full bicep adjustment and because it is gathered at the hem, I didn't worry about a swayback adjustment. I made slightly narrower bands than the pattern called for and used a run-of-the-mill black zipper from Wawak. I have been staying away from poly/lycra pontes (give me some rayon!!) but for something like this, it's okay with me. I also lined it with a poly/lycra interlock and left out the interfacing. You can check it out over on the Fabric Mart blog!

The Fabricista Fashion Challenge will be starting up soon so I won't be posting for September. I really enjoy watching the progress! Also, the PR Sewing Bee will be starting in September! It's not my kind of comp so I won't be sewing, but I'll be watching - for sure.

Finished: New Look 6481

Didn't I *just* say at the end of my last post that I was going to try not to get distracted by shiny??

Sheesh.

In a FB group that I am in, someone posted some fall plans and it included the Decades of Style Three's a Charm jacket. I adored the lines but I always check Big4 and Burda before biting on an Indie pattern. Why? I know how they will fit and what adjustments I need to do. You all know by now that I balk at muslins! :-p

So I'm scrolling through the coat/jacket category on PR and see this:

Wait what? I've never seen that pattern before!?! It's PERFECT! Turns out it was a new one from the Fall release. Lucky me!!!! I had to visit the JoAnn in the crazy busy part of town but I got it! And then I kept thinking about it and this suiting that would be perfect for a LBJ and yeah, I started working on it when I got off work Friday :)

Let's clear something up. A couple of people have compared it to the Grainline Morris. IMHO, not.at.all like the Morris. Okay maybe 'not at all' is a stretch. It's a slightly cropped jacket. It is a much closer clone of the DoS jacket. I made a graphic!

See? 

Now, the Three's a Charm jacket offers far more opportunities to fit with all those wonderful darts (I really dig shoulder darts). And I prefer the lack of topstitching on the New Look (which you could of course, skip on the TaC. There are TONS of the TaC jacket up on blogs and I knew that I would never wear a jacket of this style buttoned so I decided to go ahead and gamble with the NL at $4.

However, based on the number of finished projects on such a wide variety of body types in an array of fabrics, I do think the TaC jacket could be a good buy at $12 for the PDF / $15 for the printed pattern.

Also, sizing on the NL vs DoS are comparable; The New Look is sizes 8-20 or bust measurements of 34-46. The Decades of Style is sized ABC but is for busts sized 30-46.

The big cheesy grin says it all - I love it!

I made a mistake right away with cutting. I very often cut size 14 and grade to a 16 at the side seam, eliminating the need for a shoulder adjustment. I then went and narrowed the shoulder 1/2". I have to add this back.

I did a 3/4" FBA and lowered the dart an inch. I also needed to move it back about an inch. The dart was sort of large to me so when I did my FBA, I had a big honkin' dart. I was surprised and redrew the lines to reduce some of the uptake. This was a bad move. I have folds but they are not because I need more room. When I pinch out just a bit more at the dart, the jacket lies flat.

I removed 4" in length from the sleeve and added a bit of width after measuring. I didn't do an actual full bicep adjustment because I thought it would be sufficient.

EEK!!

I'd set this very lovely pucker-free sleeve; I use lots 'o pins when setting sleeves:

Look at how smooth that cap is!!!!

And then I put the jacket on and holy moly was it tight!!!! LOL! I sat the jacket down, dejected and went to sit on the couch and drown my sorrows in a bowl of popcorn.

Revelation. Ok. Fine. Duh moment... CUT NEW SLEEVES :-p

I had 4 yards of this fabric snagged during a Fabric Mart sale. I'd paid $1.99/yd and thankfully, I did good. It presses beautifully and stitches up well.

After doing a proper 1" full bicep adjustment, I decided to add 1/2" to the sleeve cap. I'm not sure all of this extra was needed and admit that making this decision based on the too-tight sleeve was maybe a bad call. It's not bad but I can tell there's a bit of extra and it was harder to ease.

I can move!

The sleeve rotation - I notice this with jackets and then I had a lightbulb moment and remembered that Gail over at GKs Agenda blogged a fix for this. I'm going to try this on my next jacket.

I did a 3/4" swayback adjustment which is standard for me: 

I like the back fit

And because of basically solid black fabric decided to just serge all seams. In a print or color where I didn't have matching serger thread I'd definitely bind that center back seam for a little interest.

I also tacked the facing down at the point, at the cb seam and at the shoulder seams.

Sooo I pretty much am in love with and am wearing it today. Wearing the exact outfit actually that I blogged (different jewelry!) :)

Once I get some more fall sewing done I'll decide on what color to add next. It looked really cute over this black/white M6886 dress I made!

The outtake: that plant was attacking me!

Kwik Sew 4113

I had big plans to sew a dress to wear to the wedding this past Saturday and an outfit to wear for the 5K I participated in.

I wanted to Kwik Sew skort when it first came out! I thought I'd love it for my long walks. I picked up a couple yards of activewear knit from Fabric Mart and another yard from SR Harris. I initially planned to make the skort in gray and pink and this Burda tank top with gray bandeau and the rest in pink. I got the main part of the tank sewed up, tried it on, had a good laugh and trashed it. It was SO TIGHT! I may attempt it another time but not for now. I was going to sew the top from this pattern but lost my mojo (more on that later). I'm glad I didn't because I didn't even consider there would be a race shirt.

Also, I almost sewed up the navy activewear knit into the other view of this skort but I'm glad I didn't.

I sewed a size L (intended for hips up to 43.5" and my hips are about 43.5-44 inches. I removed 3/4" from the front rise and added 3/4" to the back rise of the shorts. I needed to add to the skirt back too.

One reviewer on PR mentioned that the shorts aren't snug enough. When I tried them on (several times!) they seemed fine. But during the race, no go. I had to continuously adjust them and it was so annoying. I will make another pair (or 2!) but not until I have some compression fabric to make the shorts from. Also, this knit was not wicking. Fine for the skirt but NOT for the shorts especially if your thighs rub together. I ended up having some chafing by the end of the race :/

The pattern though is fantastic. Everything went together really well and the design is pretty cute. I also really like the waistband width and how the elastic is applied. No casings, no visible stitching on the outside...the waistband/facing seam is sewn and the elastic is stitched just inside the seam line. And then you close it up and baste. I rarely baste things - just use lots of pins or in this case, the Wonder Clips came in handy. I think the clips are good for certain applications but I do not prefer them to pins...

Shorts and skirt are hemmed with a twin needle. I ended up popping the stitching on one side of the shorts. No doubt from yanking them down a dozen times.

Because of my OA (in both knees - boooo!), I can't run (yet). So I entered the walk portion and finished in 56:47.

It's so pretty!!!

Most importantly, we had a blast and have decided to make it an annual thing.

With Dolvett Quince from The Biggest Loser

As for my WDG...I was all set and SOOOO excited to work on the lace dress! And then I saw a couple versions pop up on social media and I was EXTRA excited.

And then, one day in the shower, I found a lump. I vacillated between *FREAK OUT!!!* and Eh, I'm sure it's nothing...When I went to my regular doc he said he felt it too, and ordered both a mammogram and an ultrasound. So, not unexpectedly, my sewing mojo was completely nil. On Thursday, the 4th, I got the all clear. But then I would have 8 days to get it done and I decided I was not up for rushing this project.

It'll happen, another time.

I ended up wearing my NL6123 dress that I made for my 4th anniversary, which we ended up not celebrating because I was out of town supporting my mom when her mother passed away.

This was after the ceremony so pardon all the creasing!

It was so fun to hang with the family and my cousin's gown was ah-mazing!

A young woman from their church made her veil and I was there when she was deciding on length and number of layers, etc. I thought the dress was beautiful but it being on a hangar was nothing like it being on her body. Just stunning. 

 I have my fall planning post almost done. I have an insane "want" list and am trying to narrow it down to 10 must-have projects. I want a solid plan to fill some holes, I want some things because I just WANT them, and I want to try to avoid being too distracted by oooh! shiny!! :)

An Oldie But Goodie...McCall's 6886

I really like the fit on this pattern and it's versatility. I have yet to make the v-neck version - one day. I've made this 3 times and whenever I finish one I think "I should make another one!" :)

This pattern has 124 reviews on Pattern Review, some of them multiples - it's a solid pattern.

As per usual, I sewed a size 14/16/18 - 14 at the neckline/shoulder, 16 at bust/waist and 18 through the hip. I make the neck binding based on amount of stretch in my fabric.

I got the bright idea to have the larger ruffle finish off the neck binding - it worked out beautifully! Yay me! Then it sat for a long time awaiting sleeves once I realized it was semi-sheer. When I came back to it, lightbulb! Finish the sleeves and hem the same way! LOL!

I used a twin needle and had a ton of tunneling. With this fabric, it works.

I was going to make a slip but just never got around to it. And then I ended up finding this Vassarette slip for $9. I'd still like to make one though. I went with a size L and the fit is okay. It's "reversible" for the neckline (straight or V) but that means the front and back piece are the same otherwise. So I technically don't have enough butt room. But $9 and I can wear my dress - win!

Also, here are better shots of the Burda pants. I ended up adding the bands to fix the length issue I created. They're okay but I won't make this pattern again. Too much work for just okay.

I had taken all these pictures inside and then my daughter pulled up. I ran outside to try to get her to take pics but she was "SOOOO HUNGRY!!" so I got one (good one!)

Love that outdoor lighting!

The side panel is ridiculous being a simple rectangle (on a Plus pattern at that!).
There are so many seams! I was sewing and sewing and sewing. MEH! Side panels connecting to front and back, the inseam, the front waistband, the yoke, the back waistband, the hem bands, stitching the rows of elastic...just sewing and sewing and sewing and serging and serging and serging.

SO many seams

OK fine, I'll stop whining now.

I do like the elastic back but still...that's because they choose a rectangular back waistband instead of shaping it.

I've done the x wrinkle adjustment and always have some. I don't care about minor wrinkling like this though because I don't stand, stock still, knees locked in life. So when moving, walking, sitting...they're fine.

I've given up on the idea of a woven slim fitting pant. I don't like stretch wovens very much for my bottom half. I'm going to plan to get some of this (AWESOME!) DKNY thick wool ponte knit from SR Harris. They had black and charcoal which are perfect. I'll go that route for fall/winter.

We can't take down any of the remaining graduation decorations until she leaves next week :)

More next post on the W.G.D. (it's on Saturday!) and I'll review my super fantastic Kwik Sew skort!