Failed Skirt-a-Palooza: Butterick 6060 but a WINNER in New Look 6301

After my top-a-palooza, I planned on making 2-3 skirts with a more summery flair. When B6060 first came out, I snatched it up, liking both the straight view with the little peplum and the pleated view.

I was so excited to get going on this and decided on classic but summer-fun navy and white colorblocking. I had a cotton twill in navy and a rayon suiting in white (with white poly pongee lining). The weights weren't compatible but the upper skirt is meant to be lined and I thought that would equalize things (newsflash: it didn't).

Also, I didn't think the upper portion looked THAT deep in the tech drawing but the photo is fairly accurate.

I didn't consider how this style would work with my fairly rectangular (when viewed front-on) figure (newsflash: it doesn't). This skirt took a long time to make. Well, to make well.

6 seams on the upper skirt plus the zipper
6 seams on the lining
Pleating the skirt...

I used tailor tacks to mark the pleat points as I knew it was imperative that they be properly marked so that the lower skirt would fit correctly to the upper. I even hand-basted the pleats in place.

Did a great job on my invisible zipper:

Hand sewed the lining to the zipper tape:

There is no facing or waistband. I used strips of interfacing in addition to stay-stitching. If I were to do it again I would add some twill tape or other support at the waist. The skirt pulls down when worn.

Because the twill appears slightly textured, I went ahead and topstitched the hem - it looks fine. 

Hard to photograph the white+navy

I finished it and was SO excited and...MEH.

My daughter told me to "take it off please".

I didn't understand how it went so wrong! LOL!!!

After trying it on a BUNCH more times, I decided it could work if it sat closer to my natural waist. But I'm holding like 4" of fabric in back! It sits way low on my hip which makes me wonder if I didn't manage to stretch out the waist despite being careful - or if the size 16/18 was just too big. (I always do a 16 front and 18 back in skirts).

I like the pleated bottom and thought MAYBE if I removed 2-3" from the height/depth of the top it could work in the future. But...sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. And there are WAY more "patterns in the sea".

In the meantime, I have my Ann Taylor Loft white eyelet/lace skirt and I ended up getting the colorful A-line skirt online. YAY! It came today and I absolutely adore it. I think I shall wear it tomorrow! :)

(size 14)

I also really appreciate the details. This is grosgrain used as a facing and zipper shield but it's SUPER soft and pliable. A quick Google search shows that cotton/rayon grosgrain ribbon is a thing! I like the way it's used in this skirt. I can see this becoming a wardrobe fave; even though it's bright and colorful.

I finished the Butterick  skirt on the 3rd and on the 4th of July found myself home alone in the morning while both kids were working. "Oh well, guess I'll sew a dress...", I said.

1) Knit - duh. Easy. Peasy.

2) Something I've made before - duh again! Ain't nobody got time for new patterns + adjustments

3) Easy to handle fabric - See #1

I was somehow drawn to NL6301, even though I said I probably wouldn't make it again. But luckily, I am smart sometimes. I thought about WHY I didn't enjoy the make as much (though I like the dress)...Ponte was not a good fabric to use with this one. It just created too much bulk in areas with pleats and ties and...bleh.

So I reached deep into the stash and came out with this lovely, thick springy poly jersey that I purchased from SR Harris way back in 2013 when I first started sewing. The colors are fun and vibrant and say SUMMER! but can easily transition into early fall. My kinda fabric!

This time, I chose the view with the full skirt. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I did have to cut the skirt out. But that was easy, just a front and back, size 16 for both.

I ALMOST ran out of fabric! I had cut my sleeves early on when I found a good spot for them between the bodice pieces.

But when I went to move them - uh oh! This fabric has a crazy wide selvedge and it's uneven on top of that! So like 1/3 of one of my sleeves was this cream selvedge. I dug around through my scraps and WHEW! Found a piece that could fit the sleeve.

In an effort to fit all the pieces on the fabric on-hand, I ended up turning my neck binding piece on the cross grain. This meant I didn't have the stretch to snug it up against the neckline so it's a little loose. But still - I LOVE THIS DRESS!!

I ended up wearing it on my birthday <3

We were moving non-stop that day so all I got was  a selfie and a cat and boy photobombed pic at the end of the day :)

The sleeves and skirt both got 5/8" double turned hems. I did not need to top-stitch the neck binding. Love. Love. Love.

Quasi Fails: Finished: Vogue 8805 and WIP: Butterick 6183

Short and sweet...

Why it took me 2+ weeks to finish this dress, I don't know. And when I took these pictures, I wanted to wear it immediately!!

I used a charcoal ponte (FM), teal ponte (FM) and a navy knit from SR Harris. I don't know what to call it. It is lightly textured on the right side and smooth and shiny on the wrong side. 

I lengthened this one a tiny bit compared to the last one:

I like the first one better. Way better. See how not good I am at color blocking on my own!?! Sheesh. I skipped the top stitching on this one too. I just didn't think it made enough impact for the amount of time it takes. Which honestly isn't BAD, but ...

I'll wear it because this dress is so very comfortable, but it isn't love.

*****************

I was so excited to get MORE B6183 tops because it really is an awesome pattern (Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic has fallen in love with it too). 

I chose this peachy oxford cotton shirting from FM because of the color.

I wasn't familiar with the properties of oxford. Womp. Womp. 

This fabric would have done much better as a casual button front shirt. It wrinkles when you think about thinking about looking at it. Darn it.

I sewed it as before but decided to add an exposed zipper. But then didn't love the white zipper. But then decided, eh, my hair will mostly cover it.

Then I put it on...(Note: I made the first one in ponte and the second one in cotton poplin.)

The sleeves were UNBELIEVABLY tight! Like, I cut them while the shirt was on my body. SHEESH.

So I made bias tape to turn them into cap sleeves. Really, all I need to do is bind the sleeves and neckline and hem it. I need to just get 'er done.

wrinkled as all heck...

I probably need to cut the sleeves a bit more angled.

Simplicity 1280: Even When I TRY to Sew Slow...

So let me give you a little insight into the craziness inner workings of SewCraftyChemist...Make a coat? Sure! Jeans? Sounds fun!!! Soft flowy top? FEAR AND TERROR!!!!!!!!

I wanted S1280 so badly. So. So!!! But I was afraid of it. And I would see versions pop up and swoon and think "maybe, one day".

This Saturday the hubster did a Habitat for Humanity thing so he was gone all day. Son was away at a friend's house. Daughter was in bed, sick (she's doing much better now!!). I didn't even have any intentions on sewing anything this weekend but I was bored to death and had finished two books in the past two weeks and am not a huge tv fan. So...

To the cave!

Wait; The layoff occurred April 8. I have sewn 9 things since then. Sheesh. And I had made a point, except for the jeans and maybe a couple of small bits, not to sew in the evenings once everyone was home! Plus there were a couple of days that I didn't sew at all! The speed just happens on it's own you guys!

Anyway, I went to the cave and was determined. I was going to make this top and I was going to make it good!

Step 1) Choose good fabric.

I found this sandwashed rayon at SR Harris during one of the meetups recently. I did not know that sandwashed rayon was a thing.

It is fantastic! Completely opaque, stable enough to not be a headache, yet possessing lots of drape...I need more. more. MORE!

Step 2) Choose the right size.

Ah. S/M/L. Okay, I always take a Medium. Let's go with that. wait. Ah, I had attempted this pattern before! It was already cut out! The polka-dot chiffon that I first tried it with must have instilled extreme fear in me!

Step 3) Adjustments.

Oh, the interwebs. So many notes of "so much ease!" "No adjustments needed!". I didn't even attempt to change the body but knew I'd better look at that sleeve. I ended up adding 1" to the bicep.

Step 4) No rush.

I had no sewing plans all weekend so, so what if this takes me a couple days.  I shall French seam all the seams!!!!

Which I did, except for the sleeve. I found the tutorial on Grainline's site and was gonna do it but...too chicken. I sewed and serged that one.

So with french seams, making my own bias tape, super careful sewing...I still finished this in the course of a few hours on Saturday.

I finished at around 6 p.m. and was rapidly losing daylight. So my pics aren't great.

It looks good on Lily. Lily does not have enormous biceps though.

I just love this :)

SUCH pretty insides!!!

I mentioned well meaning sewing friends. So many people made this in a knit...and then commented on how roomy it was. WAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is intended for wovens!!!!  So using a knit is changing things. That's okay but mention that it is intended for wovens but you used a knit! Wah! Wah! Wah!

Ok, I over dramatize...but still. You get what I'm saying, right?

I mentioned adding 1" to the bicep and holy cow it's still snug! so snug! I have to 'arrange' myself into the top when I first put it on, then it's okay. Not sure if I'll make this top again (quite distinctive). I do like the other view but it's gone. It wasn't in the pattern envelope. I misplace pattern pieces often. It's so sad. :/

If I made it again I would add another 1/2" to the bicep, do a slight FBA and worth noting instead of 1/4" elastic I used 1/2" in the hem and 3/8" in the sleeves. I'd probably do the same.


I'm not sure what's next on the cutting table but know I plan to make a floral moto jacket using the Lisette Butterick pattern.

I like both of these for different reasons but having a tough time deciding. Both are cotton; the blue/white is a sateen, the other is a pique. Scale is about the same...

Decisions, decisions.

Insta-TNT; Butterick 5760

I mean, is that really possible?!? 

I have every single Butterick wardrobe pattern I could find. There are some great things in there. Even if it's only 1 or 2 pieces, at a less than $2 price tag, it's usually worth it for me if there's a single gem.

I bought this pattern for the cardigan 

While browsing the collection looking for a skirt pattern, I happened upon this one. 

Hmmm. Look at that nice straight skirt. Look at that cool waistband. It's a nice length...it only needs 1 yard of fabric for all sizes. SOLD!

I first cut it in this striped cotton and used a size 18 based on a finished hip of 45.5". I removed some length from CF but did not add to CB. After basting the side seams, I ended up with 3/8" waist seams tapered to 1.25" side seams. I kept the 2" hem (LOVE!) and removed some of the extreme hip curvature.

I did a centered zip and top-stitched hem and just serged the edge of the facing.

Definitely consider this on the more 'casual' spectrum of things. And I think it'll be super versatile in my wardrobe.

I was all, "what is that poof of fabric..." and then remembered that you were to ease in the front waist to the yoke. I do not like. 

On Version 2, I removed that excess ease and shaved off the hip curve. I also cut the front pattern piece down to a 16 (keeping the back an 18). The front wedge was made at 3/4" and lowered the darts an inch.

This fabric was picked up from the remnant bin at SR Harris. OMG it's so awesome! It's some sort of suiting that is nice and thick but not heavy, has a tiny bit of stretch, washes and dries nicely and presses well.

I used a contrast facing this time and bound it with bright blue bias tape.

I also did a lapped zipper and added a button and loop at the top.

Another GREAT staple in the closet! And bottom #2 in my wardrobe contest entry. I also started cutting my jeans out today. 

Ahhhhh.

If you have this pattern (it is OOP now) and want a straight skirt, try this one out!!!

Coat Planning / Vogue 8731 & Butterick 5925

I mentioned sewing up some stuff for my mom. For several reasons;

1) she is even cheaper more frugal than *I* am and won't venture into new fabrics much, especially knits (but she loves knit tops/dresses).
2) she's kind of scared of using patterns
3) I am trying (apparently NOT hard enough!) to lose weight to save my poor, arthritic knees and am not into sewing too much for myself right now. I do plan on sewing some stuff that will easily transition a clothing size (like casual jackets, knit tops, a coat) but I hate doing alterations so I'm watching what I make.

Anyway! I made the M6996 cardi for her and decided to whip up a few knit tops/tunics. We are very close in overall measurements. Bust measurement is near identical except I'm a DD cup and she is a B. So I went with loose knits where waist/hip measurement is less important.

I was almost done with the last item but it was 8 p.m. on Sunday which is prettttty near my bedtime :-) So that one should be coming to the blog soon.

Vogue 8731 is a pattern that was gifted to me and I figured the easy style would be a hit with my mom.

This is one of those rare Vogue's where all sizes are in one envelope so I GASP! traced her size off (a Large) because I might fancy one of those tunics for myself!

I used a cream/black polka dot ITY from Fabric Mart. She does wear poly knits without much complaint so I figured it would work.

See? It's kind of cute on me! Except my boobs remove all traces of that cute pleating.

My only complaint is all the stay stitching you're instructed to do. NO Vogue. No. I also set used binding (sewed flat) as they instructed you to use woven(!) bias binding. Sigh. (I will use woven bias binding on heavier knits like ponte, but not something lighter-weight like the suggested rayon-lycra knit).

Next up was a Tilton pattern. I've been wanting to make her some of these and may pick up a few Vogue's later. I was ALSO gifted B5925 (hey, I have awesome sewing buddies!)

Again, I sewed a Large and had a heck of a time finding coordinating fabrics of similar weight in my stash.

I went with 3 ITY's, navy and 'bluebell' from FM and the print from SR Harris. I *really* wanted the body solid but did not have enough fabric. I rather like it though...

I LOVE the neckband/pocket treatment! I am starting to dig the interesting details in the Tilton patterns, even if they seem a bit too kooky at first glance. I am thinking of stealing this for a tunic of my own. I'll probably copy this patterns neckline to my pattern of choice so I don't need to think about drafting the neckband twist. That seems more sensible.

The sleeves on this were LONG. I hemmed them as stated and they were well past my wrist. My mom is 3" shorter than I am. I had already twin-needle hemmed so I just hacked it off and re-hemmed. 

I actually attempted to match the side seam, even with the inset. I think I did alright.

(do you not love that neckband?!?!)

****************

I have ditched my existing coat plan. Sigh. It's too everyday. I want a fun jacket!

I'm not going full on winter coat (I'll save that for this fall). So there'll be no under/inter lining, etc. It'll be wool with a rayon lining. This will work well for those 25-45 ish type days that SHOULD be here soon (it was -9F when I got up today).

I've decided on S2508 (OOP).

I would like the cool coat of the lady in the lower center, but will have to see if I have enough fabric. Otherwise I'll be going with Ms. Pink on the left.

The sleeve ruffles grew on me fast

But this looks interesting and kind of different

While the fit seems to be decent on these PR patterns, I DESPISE the back of the envelope!

I am completely oblivious as to whether or not I have enough fabric because every.single.detail. is given a yardage. But continuous yardage is far more efficient than separate so I'll have to lay the pieces out and see if I can use my hot pink coating or if I will need to use the black/white herringbone.

To be continued...

Weekend Productivity...

...or something

I *had* to make an "ugly Christmas sweater" for DD -wait- "WE" were going to do it but only one of us managed to do 98.5% of the work. Typical, right? ;-)

Friday night/Saturday morning, my husband hit the road to pick up the kids (we are a blended family). Four years and I still can't sleep when he's not home. So when he left at 2:30 a.m., I willed myself to go back to sleep, but no dice. I got up and went grocery shopping a little before 5 a.m. It was blissfully quiet outside.

***

When I got home, I decided to start on my Christmas dress. The fabric is a hot pink and white striped rayon/poly knit from Fabric Mart. The weight is PERFECT for this dress. The stripes though are a little too narrow. It doesn't read as a striped dress...it just looks Pepto pink :( 

Review to come.

***

At about 10, I head out to meet a fellow PR'er at SR Harris. She was in town visiting her in-laws and I am *SO* glad we got to hang out!!!  

Fabric store selfie!

I was determined not to buy a bunch of stuff just because I wanted it. After making some pretty nice knit tops lately, I realized I have precious few solid colored knits. 

I got rayon jersey in eggplant and grey and wool jersey (SWOON!) in navy. 

I picked up striped french terry and real(!) leather to recreate this:

I'd previously shown a different one but the knit I bought from FM was too thin. However the French terry will be PERFECT. I just need to pick up some leather needles for that project.

***

When I saw that pink/purple ribbing I melted a little on the inside. I have really wanted a bomber jacket and with the new McCall's pattern coming out (I ordered it from BMV yesterday!), I gambled that it would match my cotton suiting fabric.

It does! Yay! It's brighter but the same color. Which is actually perfect because then the ribbed sections will really pop!

So by now it's like 2 p.m., I've been awake for 12 HOURS after sleeping maybe 3.5 hours. The kids and I had our mini-Christmas and then I dropped my daughter off at work.

I was too exhausted to sleep because I knew I had to go BACK out and pick her up later. So I just started doing STUFF. lol!!! A cherry Pepsi helped with the cause!

***

When I made M6752 for the Fabric Mart contest I really loved the dress but couldn't get past the dazzle knit.

With a crazy black/white/hot pink houndstooth ponte in hand, I set out to recreate it! But the ponte on top is too thick/stiff :/ So now I decide if I want to remove the bodice and make a new one from a lighter fabric or what. 

Sigh.

***

Sunday morning I pieced together the Style Arc Sandra pattern. It was only like 37 pages but seemed to take forever. Then I realized I was almost out of my favorite tracing paper (no worries, I have a Blick coupon to get more!). I had a big roll of freezer paper though!

By the time I got it assembled and traced off, the sun was setting and alas...no jeans muslin yet.

***

My stepdaughter is 14 but she is really short. She's too big for tween patterns but too small (well, would need a LOT of adjustments that I'm not used to making) for most adult patterns; not to mention I don't have a ton of patterns in the smaller size range. 

I decided that she might really like a M6996 cardigan and an XS should work out with just a little shortening in the bodice and sleeves. It's a cardigan so 'perfect' fit is less important.

In the meantime, (because I had to order a copy of the pattern), we were both wearing RTW scarves that were assembled the same way:
a rectangular piece of fabric, seamed on the short end and then hemmed. I let her go through the stash and I had about 6 fabrics that were light enough for a scarf. She chose this chevron poly from Hancock and within an hour, had a new scarf!

To mimic the rtw scarf, I french seamed the short seam and did a rolled hem on the long ends via machine

And THEN we made smores, watched a movie and I eventually went to bed :-p