Burda Challenge 9/2016 #113

Sometimes a plan just comes together!

So far, I have sewn from every Burda issue this year (even October!). The moment this preview was released I was thinking "must make that dress. must." And then the tech drawings came out and it was a surety. And THEN, when I broke my fabric fast, I saw this printed ITY and knew that this would be one awesome dress.

I went with my normal Burda sizing of 40 neckline/shoulders and 42 for the rest. Especially with the skirt being gathered (vs something fitted). I made no other adjustments for fit. Next time (I can see this in black!!), I will take out about 3/8" from shoulder to bust and about 5/8" from the back length.

Speaking of...I'm starting to question if I actually have a swayback or if I just have a short torso. I mean, I know my torso is short, but is that the reason I have issues vs. swayback?? When patterns have a shaped center-back seam, I don't have puddling. And I often find after the fact, that I need to ALSO shorten a bit at the side seam. Same for pants...I need to shorten front crotch length quite a bit, but I also take out a bit at the side seam of front and back to overall shorten the length from waist to crotch. Ahhh...ruminations.

ANYWAY! Aside from wishing I'd taken out a bit of length in the upper bodice (or as a cheat taken deeper shoulder seams), I cut out my skirt rectangles and somehow managed to rotate the front skirt. When I assembled the back and went to put it on my dress form I stepped back and OOPS! LOL! The back was much shorter than the front. That also explains why I knew I'd cut the skirt to match the front bodice motif (mostly) and then it didn't. I just shrugged it off. :) So I have a few less gathers in front than intended. :)

We are heading into fall/winter so my photos will likely get progressively worse :( I don't have a good open area (that's what happens when you cut your living space in half!) and the sun goes down so early during the week. So you'll get to know my kitchen and yellow table well! :)

I ADORE this print and the overall color scheme!!!

The front IS riding up a little. Full bust problems. I'll fix that...

My super cheesy grin says it all! It's Love!

On the black version (whenever I get the fabric for it), I'll add a couple inches to the length. Though, by the time it's cool enough to wear this with the turtleneck and all, I'll likely wear tights with it anyway.

I finished the hems by double turning and stitching with a twin needle. I slip-stitched the collar facing down by hand. The instructions have you ditch stitch but that seems dicey with the type of fabric you'd likely use for this. No way was I going to try that with ITY! I did however attach the facing to the lining by machine. That was no problem. I always do this as a 2nd pass, so I can use the zipper stitching as a guide.

Oh and I did insert a full length zipper but it is unnecessary. A 9" would be fine. I'd also consider using a tricot fusible in the collar. The back stands up due to the zipper but the front collapses a bit.

I started my daughter's dress last night! I got the front and back bodice seams sewn and the front skirt.

 Today I hope to get the back skirt assembled and the zipper in. Then sleeves (they are raglan), skirt to bodice, side seams, neck binding, hem, done! By Friday night! :)

 Lastly, I was on the hunt for fun skirts (still) and dug up some older Burda mags that were gifted to me. ALL of these awesome patterns are from the 9/2007 issue. Burda always gets better with time it seems!  I think the pleated skirt has a place in my fall/winter wardrobe! I have a winter white pinwale corduroy that I think will be perfect.

September Wrap-up and October Plans

It cannot be October?!?! 3 more months til we can say good-bye to 2016! Whew!!

I had a pretty hectic month. Getting through some personal stuff at the beginning plus loads of fun stuff like becoming the mom of a young adult! My daughter turned 18 which is completely bananas. IDK where nearly 2 decades went! And I had some great weekends with friends...and apparently I sewed a.ton.

I'm never quite sure how it happens. And especially this month as I had several days (including 2 whole weekends!) where I never graced the sewing room. But whatevs. My fall list is long, I've culled a ton of stuff from my closet, and I feel like I'm finally defining my style. Still need to work on weekend/casual wear, but I'm slipping some of that in as I go.

This month I sewed:

• New Look 6189 pants in teal crepe - these ended up as a wadder. Shame because the pattern fits me well. But the crepe and the color just didn't work as I envisioned. Too bad too. That crepe would have made an amazing skirt or dress. Live and learn.
• McCall's 7358 top in printed poly charmeuse - despite poly charmeuse being the spawn of satan, the sewing didn't go so bad. This pattern however? Meh. I will have to review it to have it on record. 
• Jalie pleated cardigan in taupe wool jersey - Great wardrobe staple!
• Swoon cardigan in rayon poly lycra knit - Can't wait to make another version (or 2!)
• Kwik Sew 3558 jacket in mini checked suiting (poly/cotton blend?) - to be blogged
• Butterick 5678 shirt in blue cotton shirting - to be blogged
• Simplicity 2369 top in navy rayon jersey - to be blogged
• In-House Ellen pants in mini checked suiting to match KS3558 - to be blogged
• Burda 1/2016 sweatshirt in rayon blend ponte for my daughter - I updated my last post with a photo!
• Burda 9/2016 dress in print ITY - to be blogged (should be able to get photos this weekend!)
• Burda 10/2016 sweatshirt in black and white sweater knit - this didn't go quite as planned. Review to come.

Favorite: Until you see it...you'll have to take my word...Burda 9/2016 is awesome and fantastic and makes me want to frolic. I want to put it on everyday and dance around. I may review that before the other gazillion unblogged things.

Okay, here's a photo I posted on Instagram (speaking of...) -- It makes my heart sing!

FAIL: The M7358 top is at least CUTE on. So even though I side-eye it daily, I won't call it the fail of the month. I'll have to give it to the Burda raglan sweatshirt. I had something in mind but don't think it worked out as planned. I hacked the pattern (kinda sorta not really) and my proportions are off. Plus the fabric is super stiff and I should have 'jumped ship' when I realized that and used something with a bit more drape for what I was going for.

Accomplishments: I have been 1) wanting to sew the KS jacket since forever. According to PR, I bought that pattern around April 2014. and 2) wanting a casual suit since forever. And now I have it! I love the two together even if the shirt and top I made to go with don't work (TOO blue). Reviews to come - promise!  

October Plans

My daughter has her first concert performance next week and needs concert attire. I tried to enforce my will but no dice. ;-) She described what she wanted and even though I know she doesn't see it, I'm going to use her prom dress pattern to make the gown. With a full back (vs. a 'v'), no lace or illusion or tulle or slitted skirt...and with elbow length sleeves...it's perfect! The bodice will be in black stretch velvet and the skirt I'm not 100% sure yet. I am thinking I could use the leftover suiting fabric I made the New Look 6481 jacket with but I don't want it too stiff. But it should have some body and be relatively wrinkle free.

I'm entering the outerwear contest on Pattern Review. I am making the Clare coat by Closet Case Files. I actually snatched up this pattern as soon as it was released, spurred on by Michelle's review (of Happily Caffeinated). I am using black wool with a gold-tone brass zipper. I don't need a Minnesota winter coat, just one warm enough for the in-between weather. Which to me is around 30 degrees F to zero. Once it drops below zero, out comes the parka.

I actually don't have a nice black coat! I have a down coat for "in between weather" - it's lightweight, shorter length and has no hood. So not for COLD weather, and I have a down coat that is super warm. I have my fuchsia coat that I sewed and a charcoal RTW coat, also for in between weather...but no black. So I'm excited!

High on the wishlist for the month is view B of Vogue 9210 in an olive/moss colored ponte with gold zippered pockets And with the same fabric, the top in Vogue 1465 (a DK or DKNY pattern so it's no longer on their site)

And, McCall's 7430. I was so immediately drawn to this one when it was released. I have a gray ponte for it and after Erica posted a version for her daughter, it jumped right back to the top of the pile.

There are no finished measurements on the site, hopefully they're on the pattern tissue. But with all those seam lines, getting a good fit should be easier.

I really wanted to make this sleeveless at first but think I'll add sleeves. A simple, solid colored knit dress will come in handy and can be worn alone or layered. I don't want full-length sleeves though so either D with B's sleeves or B with A/D's collar. However you want to look at it! :)

If I could sneak in one last project, it would be Butterick 6388

I may be being a bit over-ambitious here. But that's okay :) I'll do what I can do. Her dress needs to be done by 10/7 so that's first. I'm giving myself 2 weeks for the Clare which I think is doable. I plan to start it on 10/10. That way, any mishaps I'll have time to work through and if I get done on time or early, I can move on to one of my other projects. I'm actually almost certain I can get DDs dress and the Vogue top and leggings done by the 10th but we'll see!

*****

Lastly, I think I'm over social media. Well the big ones. I've deactivated my Facebook and don't miss it. Instagram has frustrated me with their algorithm based feed...It's an annoying concept and really it's just another way to market/advertise. But on IG it really makes NO SENSE. They reorder photos and then you get stuff out of context. So you're commenting on something but don't realize another photo or two have been posted since and your comment is now irrelevant.

They claim not to hide anything, just re-order it. But I've gone on, seen just a handful of new posts (I follow about 400 accounts), close out, go back hours later and still see pretty much the same posts. And then I navigate directly to someone's account and see several posts that I did not see in my timeline. It's aggravating.

I have a Twitter account but don't use it. I feel all I ever see are celebrity and "celebrity" posts, even though I don't follow them. And Snapchat is pretty much exclusive to family.

So I'm reading more and sewing more (har, har) and starting to get out a little more and attend events/functions/etc. And I'm going to the gym every other day! (I did not go when I was sick).

I think '4th quarter' makes me restless. I'm always excited to flip the calendar and move on to a new year :)

July Wrap-up and August Plans

Seriously...it's August? Already?!

This month I sewed 14.5 yards

• Vogue 9056 top in black & white striped ponte - 1 yard
• Jalie 2921 tops in printed ITY and blue modal jersey - 2 yards total
• New Look 6301 dress in printed jersey - 2.5 yards
• Butterick 6060 skirt in navy and white suiting - 1.25 yards
• Burda 6732 dress in pink linen - 2.5 yards
• Burda 7/2016 #117 dress in print sateen - 1.75 yards (review to come!)
• Burda 8/2016 #135 pants in grey pinstriped suiting - 2.25
• Kwik Sew 4113 skort in grey and pink activewear - 1.25 yards (review to come!)

Favorite: Hmmm. I have to go with the wrap dress! 

FAIL: The Butterick skirt, for sure. I actually ended up wearing V9056 one day and it's not as bad as I felt initially. I just have to wear something slim on bottom.

Accomplishments: I sewed my first Jalie! I also sewed my first activewear pattern! Well, I sewed the swimsuit but this is like - eek! I was JUST saying that I didn't want to sew activewear. Sheesh. I am making a top too but may have to scrap the original plan. 

August Plans

*Matching top to my Kwik Sew skort

I LOVE IT!!!!!!

*Vogue 1447 dress for the wedding

In this rosey pink silk (crepe? SR Harris doesn't label weave) and pewter lace combo

This silk is a little more sheer than the original one I wanted (9 whole days passed before I made it back there and I couldn't find it). However, the dress has the the 'dress' layer (the silk), the lace, and a lining. So I think it'll be fine. I'll be skipping the piping. And, I have to figure out what to do for the straps. The straps pictured are purchased.

Well, all that assumes the muslin works out!  

*August Fabric Mart project - I'm making a bomber jacket - finally!!

Because I am traveling for the wedding and then the next weekend my daughter moves into her dorm room, I am not so sure I'll get to these but they're on the radar before I begin my fall sewing!

*Burda 6732 version 2 in this printed rayon challis (2nd from the top)

L-to-R: floral challis, suiting with heavy metallic threads woven through, print on navy poly blouseweight woven, challis for B6732, sateen panel

*August Burda Project: Though I could "cheat" and call my pants my August Burda...I do want to sew the simple knit top. Images aren't all up on Burdastyle.com yet.

I am so behind on blogging projects! I've been doing so many things that's NOT taking photos :) I may have posts every couple days at the start of this month so bear with me. I have to blog:

1. McCall's 6886 dress (sewed in JUNE!)
2. Finished Style Arc Susan skirt
3. Burda 7/2016 dress
4. Kwik Sew 4113 skort (which will probably wait until I make the matching top)

As much as I want to play in my new arrivals, I'd better get going on the wedding guest dress. I have 12 days which should be fine. Right? RIGHT?!? :-p

Sometimes I Get Too Excited...

We knew that from my last post though, didn't we?

I finished the Burda dress - LOVE. Need to get photos.
I also finished the Style Arc skirt - Really like. Need to get photos!

But the more I started thinking about fall sewing, I couldn't stop thinking about what I was hoping would be a part of my fall sewing, the plus sized pants from the August issue of Burda.

I really liked them with hem band and without and looked forward to making both views. I was surprised to see a 17" finished hem because they look slimmer...yet on the modeled photos it's obvious they're just barely tapered. 

I was NOT happy when I learned that the side panel is a "drafted" rectangle. I did not have high hopes for that working well when there's butt, hips and thighs to cover. 

I was intrigued by the pocket but right after cutting them I had second thoughts -- Always listen to yourself!

So there were several issues with the pockets:

1) The front pattern piece and pocket piece are NOT curved to create an opening as the drawing suggests. They have straight edges and they connect to the rectangular side piece. So it's a 'regular old' inseam pocket and it doesn't work well.

2) It connects to the rectangular side piece. So no markings. This became an issue when I realized the rectangle was "drafted" to include a self facing. But I lined it up with the top of the front waistband and used the front pattern piece's markings to place the pocket in the side piece. 

3) They are in a weird spot. Here the drawing is accurate. The pocket sits right across the crotch. Just WEIRD!

I really wanted to share a pic but couldn't bring myself to post it. And they have all already been deleted from my phone. The horror. 

They were neatly done though! LOL!

I kicked so much butt matching stripes. Dang it! 

This is the yoke in back

I then ripped out ALL of the pocket stitching and sewed up the seams. I then had another issue with the rectangular side piece. I was looking at the measurements for the pair with the band. Doh! So I had to chop off like 4.5" in length. 

So now they are a bad length for the hem width. I decide I'll just go ahead and add the hem band to this pair and finish stitching up the vertical seams.

I don't love them.

They are *ok*

sorry for the shoe collection! LOL!

I kept this one for the pants but the face I was making in this photo was all sorts of crazy!

I think I will finish them (if I can figure out what Burda wants me to do with the back waistband).  If you look at the photo of the yoke stripe matching you can see that it has an elasticated back waist. But Burda's instructions make NO sense. It's horrible.  

The good:

-This fabric. Swoon. It's a wool blend suiting from FM with a light grey pinstripe on a medium grey. It is really soft but sturdy and presses so well. 

-They are fine. I can incorporate them into my wardrobe so it isn't a total waste.

-They fit very well in front and they are decent in back. I removed 3/4" from the front rise and added 3/4" at the back. I also added 3/8" at the crotch extension in back and scooped the back curve a little. Burda does include the instruction to stretch out the back inseam which really is necessary for a closer fitting pant. I could use a full inner thigh adjustment. I need to make that a part of my regular adjustments! I always forget.

The bad:

-I don't like Burda's random zipper placement choices! LOL! Though there's not a lot of options here...there's an invisible zipper on the left side between the side panel and back piece. Again, it's okay but it's just awkward. 

-I wanted a slim-legged, close fitting pant. Which I am starting to wonder if that's even possible without a bunch of Lycra. So they aren't exactly what I was looking for.

-If I want to make this pair wearable I have to add the hem bands. 17" is too wide for this length. And I don't wear capris so shortening them isn't an option. 

Fall hopes and dreams dashed! :-p

I really wanted a slim-legged, close fitting, fly-front pant. Which I wonder if I should revisit Burda 1/2016 and try to make those work. They have a lot of seaming though which feels more casual to me. They have a side panel but it is shaped and darted, allowing for a nice fit.

A bit tight in the thigh and a bit baggier at the knees than I'd like.

And I feel like, for a slightly tapered pant with a side zipper, that V9155 is a better option:

They fit me pretty well and they have GOOD pockets! :)

I have 3 finished projects to blog and I need to get going on the wedding guest dress. Which, I visited SR Harris and found no knits that I loved for the option 3, fun flirty Burda dress. But I also couldn't stop thinking about Vogue 1447 and as I was leaving the store, I happened upon the lace aisle and nearly gasped at this pewter lace. After I cut my yardage (you do it yourself!), I was waiting to check out and wandered over to the silks. Okay...they cut the silks (and anything over 5 yards). I thought, hmm, this is a pretty color...and when I draped the lace over the silk, two people came over and swooned over the combo. I was SOLD!

Wait.

I was sold on the idea. The lace was $5/yd and I got 2.5 yards. The silk was $15/yd and is 44" so I'd need, what is for me, a lot of money worth of silk! The store was closing and I chickened out and put the silk back. I got out to my car and wanted to run back in for that fabric! 

I have to go in that direction on Saturday and hope it's still there. I should go early :)

Ooh...Shiny!

There was a recent post on Pattern Review where Deepika asked about sewing patterns (har, har) and the seasons. I hadn't really given it a ton of thought before but summer sewing is not high on my radar. I mean, I sew during the summer - of course - but summer is just in the way of fall! :)

I love fall. It has always been my favorite season. I love the cool-to-warm temps (NOT HOT!). I love the smell in the air, the leaves...and I love fall fashion! I am downright gleeful when I can pull my boots out of their hiding places!

As August appears on the horizon, I start thinking about what I want to sew for fall. There's always a mix of 1) what I need (I think I need more fall dresses and jackets) 2) fabrics I want to sew (we all know how inspiring a particular piece can be 3) and patterns I want to sew. This may or not may mimic #1! Sometimes, you just want to sew a pattern, in a fabric, and maybe it isn't a thing that you really "need" at all.

I posted this pic on Instagram after rifling through the stash a bit. Full planning post to come!

In the meantime, there are a few more summer patterns that I "need" to get done. I recently finished up my July Fabric Mart project and knew I had to make another one in a print!

You can read all about this piiiiink linen version of Burda 6732 HERE on the Fabric Mart Blog.

So I ended up ordering some fabric during the FM P-Z sale and have a fun printed challis on the way to me for round 2.

But what to sew NOWWWW?

I wanted to make M7391 in chambray but got all scared of the eyelets. But I've been assured (sewing friends are the best!) that I can do it. So that's on the agenda.

I don't have a ton of fabric so it'll likely be view D shortened to tunic length (length of B/C)

In the meantime, after scaring myself off of the eyelets, I decided I'd make M7388 out of a lovely print rayon challis. But, it's lined! Wahhh! I did not have anything appropriate for the lining so that got put away.

Then I saw a version of Burda 07/2016 #117 on PR without the crazy wrap-around neckstrap and went straight home, traced, cut, and starting sewing the pattern! haha!

Progress as of this morning:

Lastly, I've been wanting to sew this Style Arc Susan skirt since I ran to purchase it last July.

Do you have whiplash yet!? This happens to me sometimes. Especially considering I went a couple of weeks without sewing at all.

I'm sure this is intended for 'swishier' knits but I just couldn't shake the idea of using this floral (lightweight) double knit for the pattern. And I figured, it would just give it a little more body...what's wrong with that?? So I crossed my fingers and charged ahead!

This fabric is, of course, from Fabric Mart. It has some really beautiful shades of blue and purple that I rarely incorporate into my wardrobe. Plus, I decided I couldn't go another moment without a floral skirt :)

I used a size 14 (typically 12 up top, 14 skirts, 16 pants. Which explains why I am always "afraid" of trying a SA dress. Soon) and sewed the side seams at 1/4" instead of 3/8". I used 1/2" elastic (just turned and stitched a casing).

I constructed this completely on the serger, it's SO SWINGY! But it comes like 6" past my knees. I don't understand why it's so long :(

I'm going to have to measure very carefully and "connect all the dots" to trim this down. I tried it on with high wedge sandals and it still looked kind of blah. I can't say that I normally choose midi-length...

I do love this fabric as a skirt though so I'm going to try to make it work! 

I think I'm leaning towards option #3 for the WGD! It's so flirty and fun while still being totally appropriate for a wedding! It's intended for knits so unless I completely bomb out on finding fabric that I love...that's the plan! But I also *love* option #6. If I can find a complimentary lace/eyelet and other fashion fabric?? Which seems like a BIG if...That may win out. 

Wedding Guest Dress: A Planning Post

Thanks for all the kind comments on my last post! I replied to most but not all.

And the navy and white skirt has found a new home - yay!!!

This past weekend I traveled to Chicago (my hometown) to attend a bridal shower for one of my cousins. I have 26 first cousins (only 1 is under 18) and 6 adult second cousins on my dad's side. It was fantastic to see (almost!) all of them - I love being part of a big family!

I love Dunkin Donuts coffee...mmmmmm....We don't have DD in the Twin Cities. Darn Minnesotans and their love for bagels.

I visited the brow threaders. Also not too big here yet. A place will pop up here and there on my side of town but they're never any good.

I seriously drove from home to the threading shop. I didn't see anyone. I didn't go to anyone's house. I took 94 straight to get my brows done! Hahaha!

And I wore my striped Burda dress to the shower. I love this dress so much! <3

Now it's time to decide on a dress for the actual wedding!

I had a dress in mind but now that I look back at it, the neckline is way too high.  I know what you may be thinking, "you can change/lower/scoop it".

Meh. My pattern hacking skills involve...oh wait. Nothing. The intricacies of pattern design isn't interesting to me. Sorry. I don't want to learn to draft or drape or any of that. Okay changing a neckline isn't rocket science but still; that aspect of sewing does not excite me in the least. And I have an extensive pattern collection so I knew there would be something that I'd want to make. I think with most anything, fabric choice will make or break the formality of it.

The wedding is in mid-August and while it is inside; it's still likely to be hot and humid as we go through the day. And I decided this weekend that I'd like the skirt to be swishy. Browsing the collection (and Burda!), here are some that interest me:

Option 1: Burda 11/2015. Sweet and simple. Straps are wide enough for a bra, it's simple but in a good way. This is one that definitely can go from 'casual backyard bbq' kind of dress to something more formal depending on fabric.

Option 2: Burda 3/2014. Just gorgeous. The shaping on this one is so pretty. BUT it has sleeves and I'm not sure how removable they are, based on the upper body structure.

Swoon. The other view of this one in the mag is done in a brocade, which is gorgeous. But this one looks like it would move beautifully.

Option 3: Burda 11/2014. I love the neckline and the flippy skirt.

Option 4: From the same issue. I have wanted to make this dress since the first time I saw it! THE CAPELET! Swoooon! But will the capelet be a liability in the August heat?

I was a bridesmaid in an August wedding and we had to wear wraps with our strapless dress inside the church. They were made from the same poly satin as the dress and I swear I was up there melting.

Option 5: Burda 3/2016. I love the seaming, the neckline, the pleats...I just love this dress!

Option 6: Vogue 1447. Like the dress above, this one just captured me. But I have concerns: finding complimentary fabrics (I would definitely like to mimic the cover photo; but not in black) -and- fit. I feel far more confident with the Burda patterns.

Option 7: In-House patterns Sophie dress. I really love this dress and again, it can go day dress to formal dress depending on fabric. And I love the front/back double-v.

In case you're wondering why March and November Burda...March is the wedding issue so there's always formal dresses included. November typically has holiday/party dresses.

So lots to think about and consider. I'm not sure I have anything in the stash that I'd *prefer* to use. And I think I'd love a small scale print over a solid. This may call for a trip to SR Harris! And who knows, maybe I'll fall in love with a fabric and that'll determine which pattern 'wins'?!?

I haven't touched my machines in almost 2 weeks :-O I need to get my Fabric Mart project done (ahem, by Thursday!). And then I'll have just about 3 weeks to get fabric and pattern matched and get this W.G.D (wedding guest dress) SEWN! :)

Burda Challenge May and June!

Well first, a quick photo of my second Style Arc Cara top. I finished the first one and knew immediately that I needed a white one! Really, almost any top you love can stand to be done up a 2nd time in white! :) I also knew it needed to be eyelet! And then I saw this fabric with a scalloped hem at Hancock and had to have it.

It's pretty narrow so while it calls for just under a yard, I got 2 to be safe. I left as much of the other side that I could in case I can find another use for the scalloped edge.

The only changes were to add side seam length so I could use the scalloped edge - so the proportions are a little different than intended but it's okay to me. And I cut the back elastic to 14" instead of the recommended 15.5" for my size.

I still need to hem the sleeves and it'll be ready to wear! I think it's so cute!

I mentioned in my June planning post being unsure of what to sew for May and decided to go with the slip dress as a nightgown. PERFECT pattern for it!

I used a size 40 neckline/armhole and graded to a 42 as per usual. I used a really soft knit that I got in a Fabric Mart bundle so composition is unknown. I added no hem allowance and removed 1" from the hem and then hemmed it at 1 1/4".

One of the views had braided straps and I thought that was pretty awesome. I cut strips, on the crossgrain that were each 1/2" wide. I safety-pinned the 3 together and braided them, keeping my tension as consistent as possible. I then passed it through the back strap, which is stitched down, and adjusted the length in front. They're just topstitched in place and feel pretty secure.

It is extra comfortable and I can't tell you how many times I've worn this to bed. I did a load of laundry just to have it available to me again! Must find more suitable fabrics in the stash!

The braided straps are my favorite :)

For June Burda (and Fabric Mart!) I sewed up this awesome little A-line number in an animal print stretch cotton twill.

Spoiler Alert: I LOVE IT!!!

Read all about it HERE on the Fabric Mart Blog

Burda Challenge - 04/2016 #119

Thank you! Thank you! THANK YOU! for the wonderfully supportive comments on my girl's prom dress!  It was quite an experience that was totally worth it when I zipped that zipper up and spun her around! 

Though I've had longer absences from the blog than this, this one was brutal and I had to unplug from everything. Too much life happening but I am definitely in a better place now. Deep breath out...

Onward!

After completing the dress, my next project was supposed to be "quick". But you know me...Because I didn't get a chance to make the dress for the jazz concert, I moved right along to another item that caught my eye. This dress has fun seaming, is fitted, and looked pretty cool in a stripe.

After seeing it reviewed on PR, I knew I had to go for it! 

FYI: To search for Burda on PR you want to enter the date as 04-2016 for example. If you want to look for a specific pattern, like this one, it would be 04-2016-119.

But the striped version!

So for this one, I used a striped ponte that has been in the stash for a couple of summers. Once I received it, I wasn't completely sold on the color. It is absolutely perfect for a casual summer version of this pattern! (stashing works)

Burda is awesome. Mostly because their drafting is usually precise and their sizing is uniform. And they draft for a C cup! I used size 40 at the neckline, shoulders and armhole, grading out to a 42 for the rest. I also did a 3/8" swayback adjustment -- I typically need less with Burda than Big4 -- I could have gone for 1/2".

I used my doubled tracing pencil with 3/8" seam allowances. After tracing the back skirt, I added an additional 3/8" using the pencil (e.g., traced the new cutting line, making it the seam line). 

I should have used my 5/8" pencil! Hahaha! My bottom is a 44 in Burda and this IS a fitted skirt. Whew!

I was having a no-nonsense kind of day so excuse my "over it" expression

The pattern pieces fit together beautifully, cause, Burda. 

I know the prevailing wisdom is that those of us of fuller-body shouldn't wear horizontal stripes (yawn), but I don't like vertical stripes most of the time. So I rotated some pattern pieces because, that's why I sew! Also,  "ain't nobody got time" for zippers in casual knit dresses. So I made sure most pieces stayed on grain so the stretch would be used appropriately. 

Did you see how closely I matched stripes at the waist seam? Didja? :)

Hey, I warned you it was a little "booty-tight" as we say in my house.  I was so focused on matching the side seams of the skirt as best I could that the waist seam (front to back) does NOT match on either side. Oops. 

I decided I was not going to stress myself out during cutting trying to match the darts after stitching AND the CB seam. So I kept it as even as possible so it's unmatched, deliberately. 

The facing is all in one and is beautifully done! It gives a clean finish at neckline and armholes. I had no knit interfacing on hand so I didn't interface. It mostly stays in place just fine except for a small portion in front. And yes, it does bug me a little :/ 

LOVE: 

The overall look/fit, the seamlines, the length, and THE BACK NECKLINE! Swoon. I really like it!

MEH:

I don't love the front neckline. I could have given myself a smidge more butt-room and would actually prefer this with a straight skirt instead of pegged. Pointed out because I was whining not long ago about lack of pegged pencil skirts on patterns.

Worn to the annual band banquet (DD didn't sport handmade this year)

Next up is Simplicity 8138 (to appear on the Fabric Mart blog later this month) and M7386 is cut out and ready to sew. I'm going to try to fit my May Burda in too.

We have a band concert tonight, senior award ceremony tomorrow, orchestra concert Thursday. Beyonce concert next Monday, my daughter is conducting her first concert on Tuesday and we have a scholarship recognition ceremony next Wednesday. Plus I need to get my house in some kind of order before people descend upon it the first week of June for the graduation. And someone should order a cake for the grad party. Bueller? Bueller?

Okay so perhaps my May Burda will appear in June...