WIPs and What Not

At the end of September, I had no definitive plans for October other than the Burda pants and Lekala jacket. But I can't sew any pants right now, as much as I want to.

I hate alterations. I know it's really whiny to complain about ripping out a few inches of stitches but MEH!!! With the exception of the very 1st pair I made, I need to take in all of my other V9032 trousers. Taking daily photos of my outfits has made this more important to me. I hate that my pants are droopy in the butt! I like my pants fitted, so this is not working.

As a palette cleanser (haha!) I cut out a pink version of B5678. Yes, a button-front shirt with collar and cuffs...Oy!  It's actually done now and awaiting buttons and buttonholes (I'm being gifted pretty shell buttons!); but I took this pic the other day and just never got around to writing this post until now.

My husband was genuinely disturbed by the color choice. He said I don't wear much pink and asked "But what will it go with?!". Oh boy...it will go with black, gray, tan, brown, blue, some prints...it will go! :)

As I neared the final stages of this, I was really uncertain of what to sew next. I'd posted this pic on IG for suggestions. 

Many suggested a jacket; but it's only 3 yards. And no way can I match the stripes on the front, sides, facings, sleeves...on a jacket with only 3 yards

Many others suggested a cape. I am not too into capes but even still, this is Minnesota! A cape will be good for about a few weeks at best. Then it won't be appropriate again until late April/early May. 

Husband suggested a skirt. I was sort of leaning towards a bias cut skirt or wrap skirt or something that breaks up the very regular plaid/stripes. 

I got the suggestion for a sheath and decided on that with New Look 6261 (made previously here)

This is only the front. He was adamantly shaking his head no. I told him that I like it, it's kind of preppy! He said, the preppy look is so 90s.

Oh boy.

THE 90s ARE BACK! Clearly he is not keeping up with fashion trends :-p

I've always like layered looks but always felt I was too columnar and too busty. But last year I started layering lightweight merino sweaters over my button fronts and loved it! So this is a trend I am kind of eager to try. And surprisingly, aside from 2 evening versions, I have no sheath dresses.

I was going to make this dress in navy before and something went wonky with the hips and I just hung it in the back of my closet and never finished it. But I have tried it on a couple times. I had almost decided to just finish this one, but I never staystitched the neck and armholes and they're probably all stretched out by now. Anyway, here is a version of B5678 under a version of NL6261

Looks better with the sleeves rolled up, IMO.

My sew-jo is on it's coffee break right now. Since the fabric is wool, I'll be lining it. I keep telling myself "all" I have to do is cut and sew the lining. And attach it. And insert the zipper. And hem it...and it'll be done. That's all. ;-)

We will see what, if any, sewing I get done this week!

Butterick 5678

I updated my previous post with photos of the newly sewn NL6326 skirt :)

I finished this shirt about a week ago, and washed it to remove all of the marker marks that I'd made while sewing it. And it was wrinkled as heck! So I was just being super lazy and not ironing it.

But it's like the iron touches it and the wrinkles just melt away. Ahhhhh.

Where did I find this glorious fabric you ask? Sawyer Brook! This was my first ever purchase from them; an Italian cotton shirting. It is perfectly white, super crisp and the fibers are soooo smooth. At $16/yard, it is my most expensive per yard to date. But sewing it was so freaking fantastic. Every part of the process, like buttah baby!

Butterick 5678...I would call it a sleeper but it has gotten it's fair share of love in the sewing world. It is now OOP (I don't know WHY!).

I first attempted this blouse in March 2013 (yeah, that was TWO months after I learned to sew! See what kind of shenanigans beginners get into?!?!)

Oh the puckers and the sad collar and...oh my. But I was SO PROUD of myself because holycrapIsewedashirt.

In March 2014 I sewed it again for the PR Fitted Blouse contest and won the beginner category! This one was leaps and bounds better than the first but there were so many fits and so much unpicking and restitching!!!

I was originally going to save my cotton shirting for Burda 7136, which I've made twice. But I am smart (sometimes) and I wore the shirt to work recently to decide how it felt on. It is much more of a casual shirt. I mean, totally work appropriate, but not nearly as fitted as B5678. And then, Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) put a photo of B5678 on Instagram and planted the seed!! :)

My striped shirt had been in time out because someone had gotten a little too fluffy. Well, I have been doing really well the past couple of months and know that some other things are fitting better/looser. I pulled it out and YAY! It fits! It fits well! So I decided my awesome shirting would be better used on this pattern.

I made no pattern changes from last time, though I need a swayback adjustment. I think in 2014 I didn't understand how to true things up after making the adjustment so I just didn't. There is a lot of curvature in those pattern pieces, hence the level of fitted-ness. Obviously now, I think I'd be more equipped to make that adjustment.

Fitting changes
Cut the 14 D-cup with:
1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment
lowered bust point 1"
sewed front princess seams at 1/2"
removed 1/2" from the sleeve cap height (I need to put this back)

Design changes
No topstitching of the princess seams
spaced my buttons 3" apart instead of 3.5" as the pattern has it
Decided placement of buttons based on placing the 1st button at the apex
Used 2 smaller buttons on the cuff

It's weird that the camera is making it look like there's a missing button; there is not!

Still working on perfecting the stitching around the collar stand. I'd even drawn myself a line to follow!

I remember the first time being utterly confused by the continuous lap. Not this time! :)

I'd forgotten to press up the seam allowance on the facing. However, it worked out in my favor.

I pressed the seam allowance into place being sure to *just* cover the stitching line. I then held it in place with Wonder Tape. I am very happy with my top stitching here!

(that squiggly on the floor is a strip of serged striped ponte that Wilson the Cat absolutely LOVES playing with! It makes him crazy! lol! I think it's the b/w contrast)

My buttons for this were totally from the cheapo 5 on the card for $1. 

I just liked the look of them best.

I absolutely adore this combo.

I made B6182 earlier this year. I started it in May and then it was too tight. I thought it was because it was my "special time" and put it aside. A month later it was still too small. When I first went to wear it awhile later, it was too big! SERIOUSLY! So I threw it in a bag.

But I love it so much that I decided to make it work. However, I had unpicked and resewn the waistband like 3 different times that there was no way I was going to do it again. I cheated and just sewed darts! haha! It's cotton so it presses so well and it has a print so it isn't immediately apparent that the darts are there. And it's worth it because I LOVE THIS SKIRT! LOL!!!!!!! 

What do you think about this skirt in a pinwale cord??

Fitted Blouse Contest Entry: B5678

So you know that in the planning of this I decided I need not reinvent the wheel. I had made this before and only needed to tweak it to get it good enough for contest entry.

What is REALLY amazing about this is that I used this same pattern for LAST years entry (after only sewing for 3 months) and am quite proud of my work that I submitted today. I can see development in my sewing and it makes me so happy!!!

With that said, I still entered the "beginner" contest and thank goodness they broke it out by skill level! There are some seriously professional tops posted! I think that I am still, very squarely in the Advanced Beginner category and felt the beginner section is where I belonged. I got backed up on the contest discussion thread too! :)

On with it!

I detailed the few fitting adjustments that I made in this post. "All" that was left was to cut and sew it! :)  Because it is a contest entry, I attempted to write a very thorough review. So, I'll just insert a boatload of pics here...review below :)

My wonky left side. My shoulder slopes, my hip is lower and LOOK! My hair is partial to the left side too!!

Like it tucked in!

I have pointy collar points!

My stripes MATCH!

Top stitching the cuffs proved to be a lesson in PATIENCE.

Pattern Description:
Semi-fitted shirt has shoulder princess seams and stitched hems. B: button tab belt carriers. C: roll up option with button tab on sleeve. A/B, C, D cup sizes.

Pattern Sizing:
6-14 and 14-20; with A/B, C, D cup sizing. I cut a 14D and graded to a 16 through the waist and hip.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I didn't sew a straight view from the envelope. I guess view A with a collar or view C with no sleeve tabs :)

Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. There are a LOT of elements to sewing this shirt and I think the instructions did a good job walking you through.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Funnily, I had a short list of dislikes from the last time I made this shirt. As I look at them (written down), I don't feel the same way now!

-Continuous lap: I would like to try a tower placket, but I don't hate it. It sewed in no problem this time.
-Folded button band: I do like a separate piece but I was making the folding unnecessarily complicated before.
-Length: I like the finished length. It can be left out or tucked in (and stay tucked).

Other likes; LOVE the curved hem and the close fit.

Fabric Used:
Shirting from Hancock fabrics. It's been in the stash for awhile. I assume it's a poly/cotton mix as it came out the dryer with virtually no wrinkles.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Based on my prior wearable muslins; I decided I needed to do a narrow shoulder adjustment of 1/2", lower the bust point of the princess curve 1" (Thanks L! ) and took about 1/4" out of the sleeve cap height.

I also sewed the princess seams with 1/2" seams (vs 5/8") after reading Mary's (from Idle Fancy) post Here. It really made a difference in ease of sewing the seams. It was "painless"!

Otherwise:
I did not clip the princess seams.
I did not topstitch the seams.
I used a contrasting interior collar stand and cuffs.
I serged all the interior seams.
I interfaced the buttonhole side of the button band because it just seemed sort of flimsy even with several layers of fabric. I think my buttonholes came out really well due to this decision!
I spaced my buttons 3" apart while the guide from the pattern had them spaced 3.5" apart.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think this pattern is on its way to being a TNT (still need a swayback adjustment). I would recommend it but even me, the anti-muslin lady says, make a muslin!!

Conclusion: 
I am really, really proud of my work on this top! I swear I unpicked and restitched the topstitching on the cuffs like 6 times! This forced me to learn to use my walking foot - yay!  I had to unpick serger stitches after sewing AND serging my sleeve inside out (thankfully I had a full 3/8" sa for re-sewing).  And I worked REALLY hard to ensure there was no gaping at the bust!

Walking foot magic:

I've done okay with matching stripes but this required no extra effort!! I pinned the top, middle and end of the piece and bam. MATCHING STRIPES!!!!!!!!

Good luck to anyone else who entered!

Fear or Intelligence

I was all ready to get a quick muslin of vogue 8772. I'd taken flat pattern measurements, I'd researched an FBA with both horizontal and vertical darts...I was ready. And then...

Did I get scared or smart??

I said to myself: Self, you have done most of the work on Butterick 5678. You have a completed version right there in the closet. You know what needs to be changed...

And then I said to my other self: And who the heck wants to try and do an FBA on a top with horizontal AND vertical darts?! 

And my self said to my other self: But weren't you too chicken to try to fix the princess seam curve on B5678??!

And THEN, someone said to someone else (I lose track): But you got an easy peasy how-to on that (Thanks L!) and the B5678 has that nice D cup pattern piece...

So I pulled the grey B5678 out (I'm never making anything out of cotton poplin again) and put it on. And I have my daughter help me with tucks and what-not (she doesn't know that I'm grooming her for this job as fitting helper. She is already my photog when she's here). 

I realize that with a narrow shoulder adjustment, lowering of the princess seam, and a couple other minor details should put me in a good spot. I realize that otherwise, my work on that top was pretty good...save for some frustrations that caused it to be a UFO for 5 ish months...so now, NOW I am excited again! 

Helllooooooo mojo. 

BUT...I acknowledge I am increasingly "scared" to tackle certain things. No more beginners bravado where I fearlessly pursued any pattern or fabric. I am scared to touch those pretty J. Crew chiffons I picked up from FabricMart. I am apparently scared to tackle the bouclè and the Burda Style jacket. I am scared to venture too far into my fitting adjustments. I am scared to beef up my fabric choices (I *can't* buy silk).

Newbie confidence got me comfortable with sewing knits right away. Got me comfortable with pants right away. But I am currently terrified of outerwear, fitted jackets/blazers and still, the lined dress (I need to finish my NL dress. I think lining my M5523 skirt helped a ton though...). 

And fitting. I'm sure many a sewer has gone through the "it is time to hone fit" period. And I'm sure I'll get through it. But I'm scared!!!

So I had to ask myself (my regular self); was the decision to go back to B5678 out of fear (too scared to tackle something new) or intelligence (why reinvent the wheel?)...

***And maybe you're wondering if I have multiple personality disorder. :)

I pulled out a striped cotton blend shirting and washed it up (I was very happy to see that most of my fabric had been prewashed!! I only had a couple other things that could be added to the load). 

It was a close one. Here's what's left:

And the adjustments:

This was soooo easy!!

Narrowed the shoulders on the front and back side pieces. 

Tiny reduction in sleeve cap height a la Threads article. 

No time to sew tomorrow but I should have plenty of time to finish up before the end of the month. Hopefully I'll get the major seams sewn and do the more tedious work (collar, sleeves, etc) on the weekend. 

Finished Items: B5678 and M5890

I *FINALLY* finished that dang blasted Butterick top. I am wearing it today to decide if I like it enough to redo a couple tricky things like the curved hem and cuff top-stitching. It's a bit fiddly in this poplin (Loud and it's clingy)...and the curve of the princess seams are higher than where my actual bust is. So I think I'm going to move on to V8772 and try that one before making another version of B5678. It's darted and I feel like darts are easier to manipulate than curved seams. No?

(Sorry for extra crappy photos)

This is after Chipotle and cake...

**You know how everyone says don't sew while tired? I say don't try on at night! :-O I am so bloated by evening that I have had SEVERAL things get tossed aside in a fit only to put it on some other day and realize it does fit...just not at 10 p.m. when I'm all full-o-bloat.

I don't remember fighting with the hem on the previous trials of this shirt...but I wanted to throw this thing while hemming. Also, I goofed on the buttons. I swear I tried it on several times to judge where the FIRST button -aka- the bust button should go. Nope, it's too low and they are too far apart...even though I used the recommended number of buttons. I was thinking of sewing in a snap right above the bust button and right below it...We will see.

On that note, I did not get to my vest. I pulled it out and contemplated it...but I didn't start it. I did however pull out M5890 and get it sewn up - both the top and the dress. Verdict? LOVE.

Uninspiring, right?

 Through several McCall's sales, I looked at this pattern and always put it back. And then I saw it made up on someone and thought, WOW!!! THAT is flattering!

I only have dress form pictures due to feeling very oompa loompa like this weekend (I blame the cake...not myself but the cake!)

 

Fabric for both is ITY knit from FabricMart. Love to wear and sew (serge) it, hate to hem it. Hate. Hate. Hate. 

Hate that they suggest "turn 3/8" then turn 3/8" again" for finishing the neckline and arms.

Love the princess seamed front and back and the scoop neckline. The b&w top is now no longer work appropriate because it scoops low enough to show my tattoo. Dang it. The dress did not get hemmed as low.

Also, the top is kind of short. Like danger of belly action when you lift your arms. But the dress is too long. ALSO, I don't want to hack off at the hem of the dress because I don't want to lose the flare.

So I think I'll trace the top off (this time I just folded the pattern and cut the fabric) and lengthen it...and shorten the pattern for the dress.

Do dots make you happy too??

The more I stared at this fabric for the dress, the more I loved it. It's graphic and the print kind of melds together. I put my grey cardigan (which I love but is totally not the best silhouette for me) and loved it. Then I realized this print goes with SO many things in my closet!!

Bottom right is my black M6844 cardigan...all others are RTW.

Otherwise I spent hours -- HOURS -- making shorts muslins. More on that tomorrow.

AND I have over committed to things I want to do in March.
-New to Me Pattern Company contest
-Fitted Blouse contest
-March MAGAM
-Trench coat sew-along

We will see how the next 21 days play out!

Pattern Stashing

So, I must do *something* sewing related daily. If I don't, I feel out of sorts. My hand is feeling MUCH better today (btw, I fixed those cruddy pics in yesterday's post!) and I think I'll be up for some weekend sewing. I might con my daughter into cutting my dress out by using cookies. :)

One thing about fabric shopping is it begets fabric shopping. Yesterday I attended an all-day seminar for work and tried my best not to think about the fact that I was one highway exit away from SR Harris fabric warehouse. Sooooo I have 1 yard of this crazy wide (> 60") Nike sweatshirt fleece, 1.25 yards of black jersey (Score!) and 1.25 yards of this luscious coral cotton sateen.

I have an idea for the sweatshirt fleece - a little pattern hacking. I'm trying to branch out and think beyond the pattern envelope. 

A shell for the black (can you believe I have no plain black top?)

Shorts for the coral sateen.

Speaking of shorts, I was perusing the Simplicity site (painful as that may be) and came across 1430. I had totally missed this pattern!! Look at those perfectly normal fly-front shorts!!!

I finally finished cataloguing my pattern collection. There were about 10 that hadn't made it into my Pattern Review Pattern Stash Catalog. Now that it's updated, I know that I have 270 envelope patterns, 12 Lekala patterns and 3 Burda Style Magazine. I also discovered that I have 10 duplicate patterns.

Two were by accident and I think I shall do a giveway on the 'ole blog. The others are on purpose; styles that my daughter also liked (she's a pattern size 6), styles like M6744 where I like the long and short version so for $1, I bought two...rather than tracing (lazy. lazy. lazy and prior to my BSM fascination), etc.

I have:

17 Burda

49 Butterck

1 Colette

1 Deer & Doe

1 Grainline

1 Jalie

1 Kwik Sew

1 Marfy

1 Maria Denmark

1 Closet Case Files

87 McCall's(!)

13 New Look

3 Sew Simple

1 Sewaholic

65 Simplicity

24 Vogues

I have 58 dress patterns. 58! I'm never going to make 58 dresses! 

I want to enter the PR "New To Me Pattern company" contest and as I've sewn B/M/V/KS, S/Burda/NL, Burda Style Mag, Maria Denmark, Lekala, Deer & Doe uhmm...I'm running low on options :)

The Grainline pattern is the Lakeside PJs, CCF is the Bombshell swimsuit and Jalie is the jeans. Those are all out. OUT! :) I'm thinking of the Marfy 1913 top and/or the Thurlow shorts. I've got 2 weeks!

***

Then there is the fitted blouse contest right behind it. This Butterick 5678 is making me ready to move on. I last sewed the 14-C cup and it was ok with a little pulling at the bust. I went up to the D-cup and now I have extra fabric between shoulder and bust and it looks like the curve of the princess seam is hitting too high. Tips? Advice? Help!!!!

Hopefully I can sew my dress tomorrow night/Saturday a.m. and finish this top.

In Progress & Finished: BSM 11/2012 #136A

And in progress and in progress...It's okay, it's not necessarily a bad place to be! :)

I know enough now to be dangerous not to judge the fit of a garment completely before finishing details (like sleeves) are added. Extras, they change things.

So, to my New Look muslin I added the facings and bias binding to one of the armholes (I'm going to cut and sew a sleeve to the other side).

 

This is a selfie so I don't think that pulling right under the arm is "real" as it doesn't pull when it's on. 

 

Ah-ha. There was what appeared to be gaping in the front, that went away when the facing was applied. This however is crazy. I can grab like 2-3" of fabric back there. 

So, do I take tucks/darts on the garment or do I do a slash and overlap on the paper pattern?

Also 'in progress' is the Butterick 5678 top I started waaaaaay back in like October. I got mad at it and quit it. It's amazing how a few months changes things. I was thinking, WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT. But the hip is 43.5", my hip is 44", that's why it wasn't comfortable on. Luckily the side seams are just basted so I can take a little extra room.

I think I will wear this top but want to try ONE MORE TIME and use the 16-D cup (what this is) with a narrow shoulder adjustment and swayback adjustment. Almost there. It will not be a "muslin" though...definitely wearable.

Yep. BurdaStyle tracing sheets and -the horror!- an empty tracing paper roll :)

Almost perfect collar point! aargh!!!

It was when I took this pic that I noticed the pucker.

Stupid pucker

 I hope to finish the top this week and sew the NL dress in the fashion fabric too!

Last week after realizing the boxy top was a no-go, I went for fast and easy :)

I pulled out the 11/2012 issue of Burda Style Mag (BSM henceforth!) and traced off this top.

11/2012 #136A

I do love the mohair version!!

I started with this crazy mirrored knit and loved the shape so much that I cut a second in this polka-dot ITY.

Pictures are crappy; the tops are awesome. I want to make it in a sweatshirt knit next!!

Lastly...Burda is good. I know long term subscribers can be disillusioned with them but...seriously, this Plus issue makes me drool. I can wear plus size bottoms but not tops. I definitely need a 40/42 in their tops. boooo!

**Today I have to get cortisone shots. If I can't sew I'm going to cry. Real tears.

Me Made Monday(s)!

I intended to do this and have worn a 'me-made' item the past three weeks. The first two weeks, I didn't take pictures because I'd worn them pretty much as pictured for my reviews -- with jeans. Today I wore Butterick 5678 under my argyle sweater. I've always thought I was too chunky and top heavy to layer my tops. But I really liked it!

I did not like wearing my too big grey slacks. I've lost almost 10 lbs and they are saggy baggy. I'm too scared to try to make an alteration to them and really should sew up a grey version of NL 6189. Meh.

Here are my last few 'me-made Monday' looks.

Monday, March 25: Simplicity 2594, Old Navy jeans

Monday, April 1: New Look 6104 with trousers

Monday, April 8: Butterick 5678. Argyl sweater-Target, Grey slacks

I have one more blouse I'm hoping to get sewn up for Faye's Essential Sew Along, which ends Wednesday. Check out the fabulous blouses HERE!

Finished Item - Butterick 5678

This was my entry into the Pattern Review Fitted Blouse Contest. I had intended to make a couple of shirts but didn't get around to it. I didn't start this one until last week!

I technically muslined this about a month or so ago, and never came back to it. I don't remember the sleeves on the muslin version being extra long. But I did remember it being a little snug. I didn't have time to try to fit another size (either the 16C or a 14D or fit the 14C with an FBA). I didn't want to suss all that out. Sue me. ;-)

Muslin of 5678

For my garment, I found some soft poly/cotton blend fabric in a soft tan that I really liked. I scored 2.5 yards of it for like $5. I like $5 shirts. It took FOREVER to sew though! Oy vey!!! 

I'm also adding it to Faye's essential top sewalong! There's some good stuff over there!

I like the shirt and will definitely be wearing it.

I don't think the stand is supposed to extend that far but whatev.

Front (it looks wrinkly)

I sewed on the buttons with my machine!!!!

I worked hard on my topstitching!

Back

**I am not anti-polyester - but I wore the pink top (New Look 6104) yesterday and was sweating something fierce. My office is a freezer, but I had to keep my jacket (as in blazer type) off because I didn't want to start sweating. This fabric is 65% poly/35% cotton. I thought it was the other way around. I'm definitely more aware of my fabric choices now, but not quite ready to dive into expensive fabrics. I'm still aiming for garments at a total cost of under $20.

Pattern Description: 

Misses top with collar, length variation and optional sash

Pattern Sizing:
14-20 (A/B, C, D) - I cut a 14C

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Mostly 

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Sure

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It works out well. I like the shaping of the princess seams, but it makes for a ton of pattern pieces. It takes a loooong time to put it all together. The shirt body has 7 pieces (2 left front, 2 right front, 3 back). Then the sleeves, the continuous laps, the cuffs, the collar stand, the collar. WHEW!  I did much better on the collar this time. I really took my time on it. It's messy on one side (the stand) but I really like my work on it. It would probably fit slightly better if it had a yoke.

Fabric Used:

Cotton blend (65% poly, 35% cotton)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Left off the pockets, I don't like breast pockets. I didn't add the collar button. I cut view A but added a regular collar.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes and yes.

Conclusion: 

Not a quick sew but I think the sizing is good. Next time I'll shorten the sleeves and consider doing a swayback adjustment.