Finished Item: Lady Skater

Well...let's just get on with the saga, why don't we?

I got up Saturday and headed down to the cave while everyone was sleeping. I do my best work at this time. Or so I thought (da-da-dum!)

Oh wait. We have to back up.

I had a helluva time taping the pieces together after about page 12. I looked all over and saw no complaints about assembly. I wasn't sure if it was "never say a bad word about an Indie pattern" or if it was a problem on my end. THEN I remembered/realized this pattern was gifted to me and was printed by the gifter. Hmmm. Ok. Could be a printing issue.

Then I found one blogger who had the exact same issues!!! And resolved it. It was a printer problem. Whew. 

The pattern comes in sizes 1-8 (I don't like that) and it fits upper bust 30-44. My daughter's HB measurement is 30.5/FB of 32" so I went with a 2. I assumed I'd need to lengthen it but rather than go through all that noise, I just used the size 5 length. Ok...back to it.

I had already traced the pattern pieces off for her. I went down, cut out the pattern pieces and laid my pre washed fabric out to cut. 

If you ever have to say to yourself, "Oh wow! This fabric is really wide!" STOP. MAKE SURE YOUR FABRIC IS POSITIONED CORRECTLY!!

Yep. I cut the entire dress (THE ENTIRE THING) out on the cross grain. I did not realize it until after every piece was cut. Neckband, sleeve bands, all that. I seriously almost cried.

I took a break and went and got coffee and a donut. You know, brain food.

Went back to it. Spilled coffee on the fabric.

I re-cut the bodice pieces from the failed skirt sections. I re-cut the sleeve bands from the failed sleeves. I had to re-cut the skirt and sleeves. I had 3.5 yards of this fabric; 2 for her dress and 1.5 for a top for me. No top for me.

Ok. Got the pieces ready to go.

The instructions come in 2 forms; one for beginners that is very detailed with tons of pics and stuff and another crib sheet for more experienced sewers.

Got the dress sewed together and had her try it on (yesterday's post).  The 3/8" broad back adjustment I did wasn't necessary and now there's extra fabric :(

DEEP SIGH.

It's okay. She doesn't even notice it and won't be bothered by it.

Then I put on a sleeve band and went to press it using my press cloth. Huge. Mega. Crazy shine spot. Whyyyyyyyy!

Then I set the neckband in the round and didn't stretch enough early on. I had to unpick about a quarter of my serger stitches to properly stretch the remainder.

But it's gorgeous on her and she LOVES it!!!

The color on her is accurate. Not sure why the sleeve band shot is so extra overexposed.

I ended up having to do a 5/8" hem even with the longer length cut. But the girl has long legs. Really long legs. There were several reviews that complained about the long back bodice and I agree...it's a bit long there.

Otherwise, everything ELSE went off without a hitch. She's happy. I'm happy. I have to find fabric for my own Lady Skater! :)

Dress #2 has to get finished this week.

Fitted Blouse Contest Entry: B5678

So you know that in the planning of this I decided I need not reinvent the wheel. I had made this before and only needed to tweak it to get it good enough for contest entry.

What is REALLY amazing about this is that I used this same pattern for LAST years entry (after only sewing for 3 months) and am quite proud of my work that I submitted today. I can see development in my sewing and it makes me so happy!!!

With that said, I still entered the "beginner" contest and thank goodness they broke it out by skill level! There are some seriously professional tops posted! I think that I am still, very squarely in the Advanced Beginner category and felt the beginner section is where I belonged. I got backed up on the contest discussion thread too! :)

On with it!

I detailed the few fitting adjustments that I made in this post. "All" that was left was to cut and sew it! :)  Because it is a contest entry, I attempted to write a very thorough review. So, I'll just insert a boatload of pics here...review below :)

My wonky left side. My shoulder slopes, my hip is lower and LOOK! My hair is partial to the left side too!!

Like it tucked in!

I have pointy collar points!

My stripes MATCH!

Top stitching the cuffs proved to be a lesson in PATIENCE.

Pattern Description:
Semi-fitted shirt has shoulder princess seams and stitched hems. B: button tab belt carriers. C: roll up option with button tab on sleeve. A/B, C, D cup sizes.

Pattern Sizing:
6-14 and 14-20; with A/B, C, D cup sizing. I cut a 14D and graded to a 16 through the waist and hip.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I didn't sew a straight view from the envelope. I guess view A with a collar or view C with no sleeve tabs :)

Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. There are a LOT of elements to sewing this shirt and I think the instructions did a good job walking you through.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Funnily, I had a short list of dislikes from the last time I made this shirt. As I look at them (written down), I don't feel the same way now!

-Continuous lap: I would like to try a tower placket, but I don't hate it. It sewed in no problem this time.
-Folded button band: I do like a separate piece but I was making the folding unnecessarily complicated before.
-Length: I like the finished length. It can be left out or tucked in (and stay tucked).

Other likes; LOVE the curved hem and the close fit.

Fabric Used:
Shirting from Hancock fabrics. It's been in the stash for awhile. I assume it's a poly/cotton mix as it came out the dryer with virtually no wrinkles.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Based on my prior wearable muslins; I decided I needed to do a narrow shoulder adjustment of 1/2", lower the bust point of the princess curve 1" (Thanks L! ) and took about 1/4" out of the sleeve cap height.

I also sewed the princess seams with 1/2" seams (vs 5/8") after reading Mary's (from Idle Fancy) post Here. It really made a difference in ease of sewing the seams. It was "painless"!

Otherwise:
I did not clip the princess seams.
I did not topstitch the seams.
I used a contrasting interior collar stand and cuffs.
I serged all the interior seams.
I interfaced the buttonhole side of the button band because it just seemed sort of flimsy even with several layers of fabric. I think my buttonholes came out really well due to this decision!
I spaced my buttons 3" apart while the guide from the pattern had them spaced 3.5" apart.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think this pattern is on its way to being a TNT (still need a swayback adjustment). I would recommend it but even me, the anti-muslin lady says, make a muslin!!

Conclusion: 
I am really, really proud of my work on this top! I swear I unpicked and restitched the topstitching on the cuffs like 6 times! This forced me to learn to use my walking foot - yay!  I had to unpick serger stitches after sewing AND serging my sleeve inside out (thankfully I had a full 3/8" sa for re-sewing).  And I worked REALLY hard to ensure there was no gaping at the bust!

Walking foot magic:

I've done okay with matching stripes but this required no extra effort!! I pinned the top, middle and end of the piece and bam. MATCHING STRIPES!!!!!!!!

Good luck to anyone else who entered!

Finished Item S2255

Soooo ...my husband and I are separating. I can say that, I have a hard time with the D word, even if I am "okay" with it.

Roller. Coaster.

This will likely be the first and last time I mention it here. But I really enjoy the sewing community and reading everyone's blogs and commenting and everything so; if when I go off the rails, you will know why.

I haven't been in the cave :( but I did knit. I knit so much yesterday that my wrist is on fire. I should stop. But it's a pretty sweater! It's my first sweater!! And because it's primarily just stockinette, it is completely mindless so...

Last weekend I finished my other Simplicity 2255 top. I now want to make it in plaid (because plaid is awesome). I do not love the mandarin collar though. Maybe because I have a short neck...but I love the fit of this top. I am going to use it to compare to other button front shirts because, except for the pooch of fabric mid back (which I *think* I know how to fix) it fits really, really well.

I even did an FBA! The white fabric was much stretchier than I originally thought and this is a tightly woven shirting cotton so I completely effed up altered my front pattern piece to do an 1/2" FBA. And still ended up using 1/2" SA instead of 5/8" so perhaps I need 3/4"?? This was my first FBA.

The only issue I have and I'm surprised I did this...I just put the sleeve snaps where they indicated on the sleeve vs checking the fit. They are too high up to me. But I really love the fit and am sure I'll wear it.

Oh and I also got scared to top stitch because my top stitching leaves much to be desired.

Front

 

Close up of snaps

 

 

Back

 

 

Collar

 

 

Sleeve snap

 

 

Showing off my set-in sleeve. I'm getting pretty good at this!! I finished up and had a tiny pleat. So I ripped about 2 inches of stitching out to redo it. And then I ended sewing part of the sleeve in place. So I ripped out about 4 inches of stitches and resewed it. OY!

 



Regarding attaching the snaps; I was warned to practice, practice, practice. So I did. I realized I didn't have a very good surface at home for support, so I brought them to work and used the bench in the chemistry lab. Excellent application of the snaps.

Except...Oops.

I applied the "female" side of the snaps backwards. Do you know how hard it is to pull snaps out?! I pulled them all out, steamed the heck out of the shirt and reattached.

Ooops.

I placed the snaps according to the button placement on my white version. But buttonholes allow some degree of difference. Snaps do not. They didn't line up. Like, they were off about 1/4". Do you know how hard it is to pull snaps out TWICE?!

So uhmm, yeah. Labor of love for sure.

Again, a cute, casual shirt that just may be in the running for this years One Pattern Many Looks contest. There are so many ways you can work this pattern. It has 4 sleeve options, 2 lengths, the option of doing side ties or tabs, sleeve ties or tabs, ruffled front, pockets...endless opportunities.

I have my M6844 cardigan about 85% done. Just need to get my mojo up. Until next time...

Thanks in advance for any supportive comments :)


1.5 yards of cotton/poly shirting: $3
Snaps: $3 (wasted a whole pack!)
Thread: stash
Total: $6

Finished Items, Last of 2013!! :)

First, Thursday morning I went down to the sewing room and took, oh...about 10 minutes to "make" this scarf. I really love it.

Using 1 yard of Snuggle flannel from JoAnn (which shrank quite a bit in width when washed - beware!), I cut it all nice and square, then sewed the long ends together (the ~42" length) and then serged. Then I turned the tube and sewed the short ends into a circle, leaving a space to turn it. Then I just used fusible on the opening. If I were giving it away I'd stitch it shut...but I hate hand sewing!

Something inside of me made me know - KNOW - that Burda 7283 would be a winner for me. When I bought this 2 yards of moleskin from Hancock, I had no clue what I'd make from it. I'd never worked with it before but liked it's suede-like feel. And I think I paid like $4/yd - win.

I cut a straight 16 based on finished hip measurement of 45". The waist was 33" I think. It sits at the natural waist. Now, I hadn't sewn a Burda pattern before and didn't know what to expect. Fit - yes. Instructions - holy cow.

There were 4 instructions. Four. Cuatro. Quatre.

ok, ok. I ran into a problem with the waistband facing and button band and basted and unstitched like SEVEN times!!! I finally said, forget it and knew it would 'ruin' the gorgeousness of my interior.

This skirt is everything. I want to lie next to it and rub it when I go to bed tonight. Seriously.

I love the front buttons but I should've followed my instincts and made the button band non-functional and inserted a zipper in the side or back seam. I had to stitch 2 snaps between the waistband and the first skirt button. But it's okay! I love it!!!!

The waistband has 2 rows of top stitching (I did 3) and I am in love with the look of it.

I was going to serge the interior seam but thought black would be too harsh against the navy. So I decided on a pretty finish. Yep. I used bias tape on all. the. seams. I used 6 yards of bias tape. OMG. But it's soooo pretty!!!

At the waistband

Sooo the ruined interior, yes, I knew you wouldn't forget. I don't know what in the heck was up with the facing. meh.

It didn't fit. So my interior isn't as perfect as I wanted and it even made me say 'forget it' and just serge the button band! LOL!! I will be making this again - for sure!

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Next up is Simplicity 2255.

I don't have many details. I cut this at some point in the spring...maybe April. I was still very new to sewing, had no experience yet in making alterations for fit and didn't quite have much intuition with how things are constructed. The mandarin collar gave me FITS. I could not figure it out. This got thrown into the UFO bin and I'd forgotten about it. I did some cleaning up and organizing (more on that tomorrow) and when I put it on Lily I was pleasantly shocked by how well it fit. It even had button holes! So I endeavored to turn this UFO into a finished garment!

It's a straight size 14 and the fabric has some lycra in it. Otherwise, I'd need about a 1/2" FBA. And of course...that ole' swayback.

I love the neckline, love the fabric, love the slightly tinted white shade and love the buttons. I am totally wearing this to work tomorrow!!

Finished Items: Kwik Sew 3115

Sooooo if you've been following my little blog, you know that this happens.

Right now, the mojo is on FIRE!

I haven't been spending all night and day in the cave, I promise. I must be getting better at this sewing thing :-D

I had to make yoga pants for Dougie because well...she's my little baby cakes. Only she's not so little. Well, she's tiny but she's big. Anyway (hahaha!)

Kwik Sew 3115 is the holy grail of yoga pants y'all. It's been going strong for over a decade and has like 75 reviews on PR. I will bet that some of those people made it multiple times too.

Their pattern envelopes (prior to the McCall buyout) leave much to be desired. But I've read that their sizing is good and they don't have the ginormous ease that the Big4 have. I wonder if that'll change...

I cut hers in an XS (her waist is 1.5" larger than the envelope measurement and hips are the same size).

The contrast waistband was her idea. Nicely done!

She's so narrow!

extra short front crotch length like her mama

double stitching on the hem

So naturally, *I* wanted some too!

So off I went to trace off a large, make my adjustments and tada!

My waist and hips are pretty much exactly on the larger end of the measurements for size Large.

For her I removed 1/2" from the front crotch and added 3.5" to the length.

For me I removed 2" from the front crotch and added 1.5" to the length.

 

The finished inseam on the pattern is 30" and it allows for a 3/4" hem. I find 30" too short for me. I added 1.5" and then hemmed 1 1/4". Same with hers...I added 3.5" but hemmed 1 1/4". So it's like adding an inch to mine for 31" finished inseam and 3 inches to hers for a 33" inseam.

She got a wide waistband (it's doubled from the pattern piece, folded in half and serged in place). She can wear them "normal" or low rise. She likes this.

I used 1" elastic (and would go for 1.5") and stitched the elastic to the inside of the waistband and serged in place.

 

Her fabric is a ponte from FabricMart that was either Sue's pick or the Crazy Priced Fabric. It was $3.99/yard and I bought 4yards of it. I've made from that fabric; my NL 2-toned sweatshirt, baby leggings, her yoga pants, and there is enough for either another contrast top -or- a pencil skirt. I am thinking of making a pencil skirt for her because everyone needs a black skirt and she has zero skirts.

 

My fabric is a "scuba double knit" from FabricMart. It's 100% polyester and yes, it's a bit scratchy compared to hers but it's a little thicker. I'm kind of disappointed I paid $5/yard for it but...it's okay.

They are SOOOO comfy guys!!

Finished Items McCall's 5720 and WINNER!

I have finished 3 more gifts but can only show 2 of them today. I'll show the others after they're received by the recipients :)

Both of these aprons are made from McCall's 5720

When I saw Lisa's version HERE, I had to have one! 

From Lisa's site

Well, my mom had to have one :) I couldn't wrap my head around connecting the bodice to the tiered skirt and in the end I totally fudged it all and it came out okay. Not perfect but okay. I lined the bodice but the skirt was pretty heavy with the 3 tiers so I didn't need to line it.

I absolutely LOVE the wide ties. There is a pleat in the tie at the waistband an it is super cute.

My mom has  tendency not to use the things I make because they're "too pretty. Hopefully she uses this! It took me forever to make this darn apron.

From the same pattern, I decided to make a simple apron for my coworker who is really sweet and takes good care of me at work. She buys me Emergen-C by the box(!!), she made an arrangement to go outside on our porch, she brings me farm-fresh eggs (she picks them the morning she brings them!)...so I wanted to do something nice for her.

Fully lined to make it more awesome. If I had thought ahead, I would have gotten the creamy off-white color but I had 5 yards of white broadcloth on hand so it's white. :) The pockets are lined with red broadcloth.

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Also, I posted a comment on the PR "12 days of thanks" post and I WON!! Woot!!

Yay!!