Miscellany; In Which I Whine About All the Things

Because my middle name is miscellaneous... No, not really, I just have a lot of random thoughts, often.

New Look 6189. I made this pattern before, a few months after I started sewing. They were REALLY cute just too high in the rise and I knew I'd never wear them. I made them again in a suiting fabric and messed up and got one leg off grain. But the fit of the pattern worked!

I had them in my fall plans out of a crepe. When I ordered this fabric, I made sure it was opaque and that it was suitable for pants. I missed the texture. It's pebbled and I don't like it. I like the color but don't love it and with the texture it's just a big ole' NO for me. I'm not completely anti-polyester but with that, this color and that pebbled texture it reads too much like old-man pants.

Also, I forgot that the leg on this pant is MUCH, MUCH fuller than the envelope suggests.

Meh. I left these alone, and unfinished, and moved on to the wrap top of my dreams (haha!). I have to do a full review on this one because this pattern is stupid and dumb. Yes, very mature, I know. But it is. It did not help the cause that I used a (beautiful, printed) polyester charmeuse. I swear when I walked into the room the fabric would fray. Peek around the corner -- fray. Think about walking downstairs - fray. Good grief.

M7358

I'm going to finish it because it is pretty. So perhaps, after awhile, my anger at it will subside.

Also, I want to finish this jacket (B6141)!!! But first, the funnel-ish collar is just wrong. I think it's drafted incorrectly and I don't know how to fix it with the way the front is constructed. So I'm going to use one of the other collar views.

Then, I had a hell of a time setting this sleeve and when I went to take it off the dress form I noticed a few small puckers in front (which in the photo below I thought it was just because I hadn't pressed it). So I have to re-do part of the sleeve.

UGH.

But it's cute!!

My daughter is on week 3 of college and mentioned wanting a robe for going to and from the bathroom. She's a huge fan of dark green (hunter, pine, etc) and I found a great plaid cotton flannel at SR Harris to sew up M7297

They both washed and dried well and I was excited to get started. 

It wasn't until I went to cut out the solid parts (the bands) that I realized the green is FAR thicker/heavier than the plaid. And the bands are all sewn double. I'm not so sure this will work out and am tempted to call it quits and buy a robe!

Wah. Wah. WOE IS MEEEE.

So you know what this means? Mojo is kaput. Which is fine; I've been sewing like a crazy person despite being super busy with family stuff.  The next two weekends were already non-sewing time because of existing plans. Plus I have a new book to read. So I'll take some time off, clean my sewing room and I'm sure I'll be all excited to jump back into it :)

I still need to photograph my polka-dot New Look 6123 (which I've worn) and maybe I'll get pics of the NL6189 pants on. 

Other Stuffs...

Have you been following along over at Carolyn's with all her fun giveaway's for National Sewing Month? 

Do you know that Saturday begins OWOP and there are giveaways? 

I'll be using my trusty Butterick 5760 skirt to participate!

Also, I changed my blog theme again. I wanted more white space. I like it.

April Wrap Up and May Plans

This month I sewed 2 5/8 yards

• McCall's 7246

LOL!

It was my Fabric Mart contribution for April. I used their Kit, which I got pattern and fabric for free. I really do like the dress though! You can read about the project on their blog.

I thought for sure I was going to be able to squeeze in the Burda dress but alas...no time. My sweetheart of a daughter pleaded with me to "take in Ks dress just a little bit" at the bust. So there goes any time I would have used to work on my dress!  Soon though as that was intended to be my April Burda project.

For May, again, plans are being kept pretty light. I have a little more free time as DDs uncle (on dad's side) generously sent money to cover lots of her end-of-senior-year expenses. So she purchased outfits for some of the events she has coming up instead of having me sew some things.

I feel a disconnect right now from sewing (I know, I know...it happens) and just can't motivate myself to even make a sewing plan! (isn't that sad?!). Even looking at all of my newly acquired patterns isn't doing it for me.

So I'm going to keep it easy and say that in May I plan to sew:
*My Fabric Mart contribution

S8138 (from the latest release) in a textured olive crepe

*An outfit for graduation and/or the graduation party

For graduation I'm thinking M7167 with the solid back in crepe

For the party I'm thinking easy/relaxed flowy sundress - M7350

*My May Burda

I love this dress!!! 

*An outfit for the Beyonce concert

I scored cheap-o seats so DD and I will go. My May Burda or the FM project (over white skinny jeans) may be one in the same as the concert outfit...We shall see!

We had a little prom dress mishap but I have a recovery plan. Here's a (dark and tiny!) sneak peek

There'll be an overlay with the illusion attached to a belt from the satin. So I have to make the overlay (won't take long, no hemming of the illusion is required - yay!), fix the back (I'm going to change the illusion to match the 'v' of the lace), hem the illusion neckline and sleeves and DONE!

That's totally a lot! Prom is a week from Saturday. This has to be done, for my sanity, before I go to bed on Sunday.

Patterns and Planning; Oh My!

I got back in town Friday night, and was without sewing mojo. I'd started a new hat during my 6 hour airport stay and was eager to finish it. I knit a little on Saturday and Sunday morning and realized I really could finish it if I pushed. So I did. Yay!

The pattern is Boardwalk, free on Ravlery.

I made this one before and chose it because I remember it being really fast. I made it up in Paton's classic wool in this deep berry color. 

Sewing plans!

When I planned on making the S2311 coat, the plan was caramel fashion fabric and a 'very berry' pongee lining. Well...the new Simplicity patterns were released and I was all gaga over this Leann Marshall coat and S2311 got shelved. I mean...SWOON

This coat will be main focus for November. I think it is absolutely beautiful. I will be cutting it close, squeezing it from 3 yards but I think I can do it!

My second big focus for November will be my first quilt. I know I said I had no interest in quilting. And people keep telling me I'm going to become addicted (I will try not to!). I really want to make a full-sized quilt for DD when she leaves for college and I have just under 2 years to do so! :) I'm taking it easy this time and making my own jelly roll strips to do a "Jelly Roll Race Quilt" in baby size. It looks easy and fun and I don't have to worry about a pattern. 

The fabric on top is the backing

Lastly, I have a couple of cuts of fabric that want to become blouses. These are the patterns I'm considering.

Simplicity 1253, McCall's 6898

Vogue 1387, In-House Belle Bow blouse

 I may be able to eek out S1253 plus one of the others since it's a simpler style...we will see. The McCalls pattern has 813 pieces and I unfolded it to cut it out and put it right back in the envelope! The Vogue seems really scary and complicated and the In House blouse is a wildcard because of fitting (although they draft for a D cup - YAY!)

As for the rest of October...I will be making a quick & easy knit dress for myself - I'll pass out candy as a witch! And a dress for my daughter for Halloween. So that will definitely consume the rest of the week.

FabricMart Winnings!! (and a little randomness)

First of all, I would like to point out that I waited an entire 24 hours (24 hours and 6 minutes) before spending any of my gift certificate money AND only spent about half of it! I got fun stuff coming though!

From the red dress challenge I won:

Boucle-type fabric with metallic threads (2)

Orange chiffon (1)

Pink textured (composition unknown) (2)

Poly printed chiffon (1)

A silky poly pring (5.5!)

20 yards! (10 of each color) stretch lace

10 yards of elastic

A plethora. That ruler is very nice.

Winnings from the bundle challenge:

Coated linen (2.5)

Paisley shirting (DREAMY! 3)

Printed linen (2)

This coating is FABULOUS! (4)

A new pattern

Pretty colors of cotton Gutermann thread!

 And then because I was crazy after finishing the contest, I super-duper cleaned my cave:

And then I made a dress! LOL!!!

I swear when I make the cave spotless I get my mojo back FAST. I knew I wanted a knit version of NL 6123 without the flounce.

This was FAST sewing. Every hem is just turned and topstitched. The zipper is not invisible but it's wearable and comfy!

No adjustments from the purple dress except to add sleeves.

And then, I made DD a skirt using NL 6189

I made a size 6 with centered side zip

I made a mistake and sewed the side panels to the center panel wrong on front AND back. The result is a little puckering but not too noticeable and she likes it so... :)

OH! This floral denim was also a win from the red dress challenge. I got 2 yards and will make a skirt for myself too!

Last up...Because I'm away for a week and can't sew, I brought along a few patterns to cut out and I brought some knitting. I can't knit for long periods for risk of injuring my hand. And I won't knit with fine yarn/small needles. But worsted and a size 7/8/9 is needles?!? And 20-30 minutes max at any given time...and things have been fine. It took 6 days to make this sock but that's okay :) I'll have the second one done probably in a week or so.

 Ooh, really last, I saw this cardigan and want it. Badly. I have some fabric on the way that is a wide stripe like this and I had intentions on making it a cardi. Must score some faux leather to copy this one.

Super. Cute. I think I'll use McCall's 6844. The front of this one has bands like that. And I've made it a million times already so no fit issues. 

Forcing the Mojo

Can sometimes be dangerous territory. In this case; I need to. I have TOO many things that I need to get started on to wallow in mojo-less land.

Last night I forced myself to sit at the machines and I actually got some stuff done!

DD got her tshirt hemmed and really likes it except it "makes her feel naked". This one...It's floaty and *just* the right length and it has the loose sleeves. All things she asked for...but she wants a black bandeau to wear underneath; but not a tank top because that's too much. Sigh...

I had 1 yard of this fabric and she got a top WITH sleeves from it! I really loved this when I got it so of course she did too; and she took it from me. It's almost a "digital" floral in that it has these horizontal lines through the fabric.

The pattern had bands on the sleeves and bottom but she didn't want those. Now, she is tall but she's all legs. Her torso is "normal" length but she then has a 34" inseam! So this view of the top would probably be WAY short on someone else who is 5'8" but more proportional. I like that it's a 'barely' cropped top and think it really suits her.

I attached the binding flat and used a double needle on the neckline and sleeve/bottom hem. I am now seeing how well raglan sleeves fit her (wide shoulders) and how they don't work for me (narrow shoulders). Sigh...again. :)

My kimono is waiting to be finished.
My red pants are in progress.
Style Arc Issy knit top pattern is traced off and ready to cut (I'd like to wear that this weekend so I'd better get started!!)

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I'm going to throw my name in the hat for the Fabric Mart Fabricistas challenge!

 

I'm "scared" but I think it would be fun if I were to be selected. But I'd totally have time to sew all the things because it'll be football season! LOL! So, fingers crossed!

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I FINALLY wore my ponte blazer -aka- the Masters Jacket and swooooooon. I love the color, the fit and the ease of wear. C'MON FALL!!!! 

 

Excuse the bathroom 'selfie'.

Sew-a-Palooza Part Two

A few things I intended to include in yesterday's post...but still apply here.

The Midwest is fickle. By the time the 2nd or 3rd week of May rolls around we could be seeing perfect 70 degree weather and if that happens; I want to be ready! I seriously survived last summer with one pair of shorts, a second pair of MOM shorts (my husband hated those shorts!) and a couple of dresses and the plethora of tank tops that I own. We have a very busy next few weekends coming up. So that's what sparked my desire to knock a bunch of stuff out.


I spent the week prepping. This is my preferred (ninja) method when I want to sew a ton. Friday night I sewed two things (save for finishing work) and traced my Burda pattern, assembled my Lekala pattern (cut the paper and did not trace off the assembled paper pattern) and cut out my shorts pattern. I cut all the fashion fabric out except for the denim skirt; I did that Saturday morning.


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I WANTED that denim skirt!! Then, I got 'scared' of tackling the Burda and Lekala patterns right away - leave it up to me to choose both to be near-instructionless patterns! LOL! So I decided to do S1430 first. Well...I didn't even use the instructions!! I sewed THREE fly zippers without instructions this weekend! Woohoo!


My shorts expedition starts with Simplicity 1430 with plans to also work up Sewaholic Thurlows (having second thoughts) and Burda 02/2011.

**My 2nd thoughts with regards to Sewaholic is that I am not a pear. Yes, I have a 10" or so difference between waist and hip but I don't have the width at the hip that is generally equated with "pear". I have seen tons of good Thurlows; on thin pears. Kathy who IS a pear and who is also wonderfully curved; sewed the thurlows and wasn't in love. Based on my 2 earlier muslins; I am not either. BUT, I already paid $20+ for the pattern so part of me thinks I'd better try to make it work. AND I think it would be a better option for going through the welt pocket making process.

There's enough room for my thighs! YAY!

Not too shabby

I *always* have those couple of wrinkles between my dart and my butt. I don't know if that means I need to change my dart length or what.

I believe those wrinkles are solely from them being cotton sateen.

This side view shows the importance of photos! They feel GREAT on. But LOOK at that side seam. It is not completely vertical. I literally have a 'greedy butt'! :-) I know how to fix that though!

POLKA DOTS!!

I decided to skip the pockets since I hadn't muslined this pattern and was using a black sateen that I thought might end up being the death of me (lint. magnet.). Having had success with S2700, I decided to just do flat measurements to see if it would work. I removed 1.5" from CF (!!!) and didn't add any of it to the back.


I chose a size 18 based on the finished hip of 46" and I flat measured the waistband...and once it was all interfaced, "wrapped it around me" and decided it would work. (This is scientific guys).


I ended up taking 7/8" side seams from below the waistband to the hem. I left the waistband SA at 5/8". Construction was ZOOMING right along, my daughter was hanging out in the cave and was asking questions here and there about the process. I generally line my zippers up at the bottom and then cut off the excess from the top. She asked about the excess zipper.


"I leave that there until I sew on the waistband so I don't accidentally pull the zipper pull off"


5 minutes later...no waistband attached...I cut the zipper tape and go and pull the $#($* zipper pull off!

I nearly cried. We both tried in vain to get the thing back on. I did not want to take out the stitching. I did not have another black zipper on hand. In her infinite teenage-wisdom, she said I should take a break. She then made me French toast and kielbasa (sweetest baby ever, you guys!).


After that debacle, I found out that I could reattach it from the bottom. I cut the tape, reattached it and had to handstitch everything in the bottom back in place. WHEW!


I also put the zipper on the "wrong" side. Meh. Works for me. I used some of my polka-dot(!) quilting cotton for the waistband facing. Insides are all serged and I used a 1 1/4" hem.


They aren't perfect but I like them a lot! I don't think I'll tweak the pattern too much. These feel a tiny bit loose but this sateen has some stretch and obviously I plan to use this pattern with non-stretch wovens.

So yep, I love them! Now if only...

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Burda 11/2012 reviewed already. Made in this cool knit I picked up from the $2 remnant bin at SR Harris.

Simplicity 2061 again?? already?!!? YES!! In black "lightweight" ponte from FabricMart.

"But wait! Isn't that the same pic as above?!?!" Shhhhh.

There's a weird something happening with the neckband. It's floppy right in the center.

My goof on this pattern? I was cutting the back piece out and had the front close by so I could match stripes. If you feel resistance while cutting, stop immediately! I snipped two holes in my shirt - thankfully in the sleeve hem allowance. Whew!

I mean, who woulda thunk that I'd be salivating over elastic-waisted, tapered ankle-length pants?!?!

Can you say, Holy swayback!!?!?!?!? WOW! I didn't realize it was this bad when I made it last time. I need to alter this pattern immediately! Sheesh.



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My daughter has given me a list of things she needs made. She wants the Illusion jacket. She actually asked to wear mine! :-) She's so sweet.

But uhmm...I'm a Burda 42 and she's probably a 34. So...yeah.

Fear or Intelligence

I was all ready to get a quick muslin of vogue 8772. I'd taken flat pattern measurements, I'd researched an FBA with both horizontal and vertical darts...I was ready. And then...

Did I get scared or smart??

I said to myself: Self, you have done most of the work on Butterick 5678. You have a completed version right there in the closet. You know what needs to be changed...

And then I said to my other self: And who the heck wants to try and do an FBA on a top with horizontal AND vertical darts?! 

And my self said to my other self: But weren't you too chicken to try to fix the princess seam curve on B5678??!

And THEN, someone said to someone else (I lose track): But you got an easy peasy how-to on that (Thanks L!) and the B5678 has that nice D cup pattern piece...

So I pulled the grey B5678 out (I'm never making anything out of cotton poplin again) and put it on. And I have my daughter help me with tucks and what-not (she doesn't know that I'm grooming her for this job as fitting helper. She is already my photog when she's here). 

I realize that with a narrow shoulder adjustment, lowering of the princess seam, and a couple other minor details should put me in a good spot. I realize that otherwise, my work on that top was pretty good...save for some frustrations that caused it to be a UFO for 5 ish months...so now, NOW I am excited again! 

Helllooooooo mojo. 

BUT...I acknowledge I am increasingly "scared" to tackle certain things. No more beginners bravado where I fearlessly pursued any pattern or fabric. I am scared to touch those pretty J. Crew chiffons I picked up from FabricMart. I am apparently scared to tackle the bouclè and the Burda Style jacket. I am scared to venture too far into my fitting adjustments. I am scared to beef up my fabric choices (I *can't* buy silk).

Newbie confidence got me comfortable with sewing knits right away. Got me comfortable with pants right away. But I am currently terrified of outerwear, fitted jackets/blazers and still, the lined dress (I need to finish my NL dress. I think lining my M5523 skirt helped a ton though...). 

And fitting. I'm sure many a sewer has gone through the "it is time to hone fit" period. And I'm sure I'll get through it. But I'm scared!!!

So I had to ask myself (my regular self); was the decision to go back to B5678 out of fear (too scared to tackle something new) or intelligence (why reinvent the wheel?)...

***And maybe you're wondering if I have multiple personality disorder. :)

I pulled out a striped cotton blend shirting and washed it up (I was very happy to see that most of my fabric had been prewashed!! I only had a couple other things that could be added to the load). 

It was a close one. Here's what's left:

And the adjustments:

This was soooo easy!!

Narrowed the shoulders on the front and back side pieces. 

Tiny reduction in sleeve cap height a la Threads article. 

No time to sew tomorrow but I should have plenty of time to finish up before the end of the month. Hopefully I'll get the major seams sewn and do the more tedious work (collar, sleeves, etc) on the weekend. 

Finished Item: M6614

Thank you everyone for the funny and encouraging comments on the lost mojo post! :)

I think I am missing mojo because it's "a delicate time" as my husband calls it and I feel like a cow. Maybe a calf...

And I'm "certain" nothing is going to look right and wah. Wah. Wah. I worked myself into a mojo-less frenzy. 

My daughter was harassing me for her sweatshirt but Friday night our furnace stopped working. It got down to 57 degrees on the upper level. I hate to imagine what the temp in the basement was. Since we rent, broken furnace = not. my. problem. The landlord called for a repair guy and by 9 ish we were toasty again. 

Saturday morning, she asked in her nicest, sweetest voice if I could make it "like, today", cause she really wanted to wear it. 

I reused M6614--which is a kinda sucky pattern unless you're a boy or a rail thin girl who likes the oversized shapelessness of it-- she is the latter. 

I randomized the print as much as possible! :)

This was my first hooded item and it was easy! I was all worked up over it for no good reason. 

I was all, well I'm not going to line the hood. Sheesh. And then...doh. Then you'd have to finish the front seam! Hahaha!

I was out of tie dye but I did have some thinner solid navy fleece -- score! (+100 points for stashing fabric!). 

Alterations:

Cut a small pattern with medium hood (we are a big headed people).

Added 2" to the sleeve length. 

Sewed 3/8" side seams (all others 5/8") so it would be a bit slouchier. 

Took a small (1/2"??) hem. 

So now, I'm on a roll. I still do not want to start up on any of my projects though. So I decide to make her tee. As a surprise. 

Now, this kid doesn't like surprises. She likes plans and order. But I figured, what the heck. 

Based on finished measurements, I cut a size 8 A/B cup from McCalls 6927 in this plaid cotton (/poly blend?). 

...all nicely serged. 

...all pressed and stitched. 

I just sewed it up! I have made awesome side slits and I am ready to just hem it and finish the neckline. I'd better try it on her for the hem length. 

I have no pics of it on her as I'd created a mini torture chamber! :-))

This shirt was WAAAYYY too tight across the upper back.

This pic really highlights how broad she is  across the back. 

"Mommmmmmmm!!! This shirt HURTS my armpits!"

The armscye was funky. In fact, that was my only reservation when I saw the pattern envelope; it looks odd on both models at the sleeve. 

I'll have to browse through some books I have on hand to figure out if adjusting for the back width will help alleviate painful armpits or if there's another adjustment that needs to be made. 

In the end, I had to rip out the CB seam while she was wearing it, to get her out. It was hilarious!

Hope to cut out all the pieces for my V8772 shirt today. Then I will have all week to construct it and next weekend too, before the contest ends on the 31st.