July Wrap-up and August Plans

Seriously...it's August? Already?!

This month I sewed 14.5 yards

• Vogue 9056 top in black & white striped ponte - 1 yard
• Jalie 2921 tops in printed ITY and blue modal jersey - 2 yards total
• New Look 6301 dress in printed jersey - 2.5 yards
• Butterick 6060 skirt in navy and white suiting - 1.25 yards
• Burda 6732 dress in pink linen - 2.5 yards
• Burda 7/2016 #117 dress in print sateen - 1.75 yards (review to come!)
• Burda 8/2016 #135 pants in grey pinstriped suiting - 2.25
• Kwik Sew 4113 skort in grey and pink activewear - 1.25 yards (review to come!)

Favorite: Hmmm. I have to go with the wrap dress! 

FAIL: The Butterick skirt, for sure. I actually ended up wearing V9056 one day and it's not as bad as I felt initially. I just have to wear something slim on bottom.

Accomplishments: I sewed my first Jalie! I also sewed my first activewear pattern! Well, I sewed the swimsuit but this is like - eek! I was JUST saying that I didn't want to sew activewear. Sheesh. I am making a top too but may have to scrap the original plan. 

August Plans

*Matching top to my Kwik Sew skort

I LOVE IT!!!!!!

*Vogue 1447 dress for the wedding

In this rosey pink silk (crepe? SR Harris doesn't label weave) and pewter lace combo

This silk is a little more sheer than the original one I wanted (9 whole days passed before I made it back there and I couldn't find it). However, the dress has the the 'dress' layer (the silk), the lace, and a lining. So I think it'll be fine. I'll be skipping the piping. And, I have to figure out what to do for the straps. The straps pictured are purchased.

Well, all that assumes the muslin works out!  

*August Fabric Mart project - I'm making a bomber jacket - finally!!

Because I am traveling for the wedding and then the next weekend my daughter moves into her dorm room, I am not so sure I'll get to these but they're on the radar before I begin my fall sewing!

*Burda 6732 version 2 in this printed rayon challis (2nd from the top)

L-to-R: floral challis, suiting with heavy metallic threads woven through, print on navy poly blouseweight woven, challis for B6732, sateen panel

*August Burda Project: Though I could "cheat" and call my pants my August Burda...I do want to sew the simple knit top. Images aren't all up on Burdastyle.com yet.

I am so behind on blogging projects! I've been doing so many things that's NOT taking photos :) I may have posts every couple days at the start of this month so bear with me. I have to blog:

1. McCall's 6886 dress (sewed in JUNE!)
2. Finished Style Arc Susan skirt
3. Burda 7/2016 dress
4. Kwik Sew 4113 skort (which will probably wait until I make the matching top)

As much as I want to play in my new arrivals, I'd better get going on the wedding guest dress. I have 12 days which should be fine. Right? RIGHT?!? :-p

Wedding Guest Dress: A Planning Post

Thanks for all the kind comments on my last post! I replied to most but not all.

And the navy and white skirt has found a new home - yay!!!

This past weekend I traveled to Chicago (my hometown) to attend a bridal shower for one of my cousins. I have 26 first cousins (only 1 is under 18) and 6 adult second cousins on my dad's side. It was fantastic to see (almost!) all of them - I love being part of a big family!

I love Dunkin Donuts coffee...mmmmmm....We don't have DD in the Twin Cities. Darn Minnesotans and their love for bagels.

I visited the brow threaders. Also not too big here yet. A place will pop up here and there on my side of town but they're never any good.

I seriously drove from home to the threading shop. I didn't see anyone. I didn't go to anyone's house. I took 94 straight to get my brows done! Hahaha!

And I wore my striped Burda dress to the shower. I love this dress so much! <3

Now it's time to decide on a dress for the actual wedding!

I had a dress in mind but now that I look back at it, the neckline is way too high.  I know what you may be thinking, "you can change/lower/scoop it".

Meh. My pattern hacking skills involve...oh wait. Nothing. The intricacies of pattern design isn't interesting to me. Sorry. I don't want to learn to draft or drape or any of that. Okay changing a neckline isn't rocket science but still; that aspect of sewing does not excite me in the least. And I have an extensive pattern collection so I knew there would be something that I'd want to make. I think with most anything, fabric choice will make or break the formality of it.

The wedding is in mid-August and while it is inside; it's still likely to be hot and humid as we go through the day. And I decided this weekend that I'd like the skirt to be swishy. Browsing the collection (and Burda!), here are some that interest me:

Option 1: Burda 11/2015. Sweet and simple. Straps are wide enough for a bra, it's simple but in a good way. This is one that definitely can go from 'casual backyard bbq' kind of dress to something more formal depending on fabric.

Option 2: Burda 3/2014. Just gorgeous. The shaping on this one is so pretty. BUT it has sleeves and I'm not sure how removable they are, based on the upper body structure.

Swoon. The other view of this one in the mag is done in a brocade, which is gorgeous. But this one looks like it would move beautifully.

Option 3: Burda 11/2014. I love the neckline and the flippy skirt.

Option 4: From the same issue. I have wanted to make this dress since the first time I saw it! THE CAPELET! Swoooon! But will the capelet be a liability in the August heat?

I was a bridesmaid in an August wedding and we had to wear wraps with our strapless dress inside the church. They were made from the same poly satin as the dress and I swear I was up there melting.

Option 5: Burda 3/2016. I love the seaming, the neckline, the pleats...I just love this dress!

Option 6: Vogue 1447. Like the dress above, this one just captured me. But I have concerns: finding complimentary fabrics (I would definitely like to mimic the cover photo; but not in black) -and- fit. I feel far more confident with the Burda patterns.

Option 7: In-House patterns Sophie dress. I really love this dress and again, it can go day dress to formal dress depending on fabric. And I love the front/back double-v.

In case you're wondering why March and November Burda...March is the wedding issue so there's always formal dresses included. November typically has holiday/party dresses.

So lots to think about and consider. I'm not sure I have anything in the stash that I'd *prefer* to use. And I think I'd love a small scale print over a solid. This may call for a trip to SR Harris! And who knows, maybe I'll fall in love with a fabric and that'll determine which pattern 'wins'?!?

I haven't touched my machines in almost 2 weeks :-O I need to get my Fabric Mart project done (ahem, by Thursday!). And then I'll have just about 3 weeks to get fabric and pattern matched and get this W.G.D (wedding guest dress) SEWN! :)

Top-a-Palooza! Jalie 2921 and Vogue 9056

I own a handful of Jalie patterns and have been meaning to try them. Boy am I glad I finally did! On PR there are 117 reviews and it's owned by 644. And you know that a chunk of that 117 is probably for duplicates (as mine is!).

I read reviews of some of my go-to bloggers to decide what size to go with (e.g. comparing the size they chose for the Jalie to the size they choose for say, Big4 or Burda). I chose the size that was almost an exact match to my upper bust, waist and hip measurement - size Y.

I actually made a muslin(!) and made a few adjustments:
1/4" armhole tuck (typical to have armhole gaping with a full bust)

added 1/2" with cheater FBA
5/8" cheater swayback adjustment (I need to add a CB and do a proper one)

Shortened the top 1.5"

navy, red, ivory print ITY

I LOVE IT!

In a cornflower blue modal jersey

There's still a little extra fabric in back. And I don't care for it tied:

Yay for the burrito method! It's so effortless. 

On this version I topstitched the opening of the tie end that I turned the top through. (On the solid version I hand stitched it closed.)

I did the turn and stitch on the armhole opening - not my favorite. This ITY is beefy so it works okay. On the solid version I cut bands, stitched it, turned and topstitched and trimmed close to the stitching. 

This version got double turned twin-needled hems. The solid version got double turned single stitch.

Lastly, I left the opening on this one to pull the ties through. Meh. I probably won't wear it like that.

I think I have to lay off the blue-based sleeveless tops! :)

A sewing friend sent me a big ole box of patterns awhile ago and V9056 caught my eye. I love peplums. LOVE! And I eagerly cut this one out. Did I read the directions? of course not! This is easy-peasy!!!

Sigh.

View A has raw edges. 

Raw edges on a neckline?!? why!? And a v-neck at that?! UGH! By the time I realized that it was completely assembled. I ended up unpicking 1/4" of the CF seam and doing a binding at 1/4". I just sewed it, turned, topstitched and trimmed the excess. Same for the armholes. I did not mind the raw hem on the peplum.

I cut a size 14 and did a 1/2" FBA and a 5/8" "cheater" swayback adjustment.

It's just okay...It would be much better if the seam was at my natural waist. And those little side panels are completely useless and I don't know why they exist.

It's okay but certainly not love. Good thing is, it was leftover fabric from my Butterick skirt and went together really fast. This one will find a new home.

I did a helluva job on the matching though!

Ahhhhh :)

During this "5-day weekend" I also sewed a wadder of a skirt (boooo!) and a cute dress in a fabric I've had since I first started sewing (yay!). Hopefully I can get some good photos of those soon. 

June Wrap-Up and Midyear Check-in

Err. This is an epic post of epicness...Don't say I didn't I warn you.


This month I sewed 10 1/4 yards:

• Style Arc Cara top in floral cotton (lawn?): 1 yard
• Burda 05/2016 #113 dress-as-nightshirt in floral knit and striped/patterned knit: 3 yards total
• Burda 6/2016 #105 dress in animal print cotton stretch twill: 2.5 yards (pattern calls for 2 or 2 1/8; I'm not sure about that. Could just be me and how I cut?? I used all 2.5 yards)
• Style Arc Cara top in white cotton eyelet: 1.5 yards (narrower fabric and wanted to use the scalloped edge)
• Vogue 9056 top in black/white striped ponte - 1 yard (WIP)
• M6886 dress in pale blue textured knit - 1 1/4 (WIP)

Favorite: I am head over heels with my Burda birthday dress! It's one of my favorite makes ever.

FAIL: An overall good month! If I had to list a fail, it would be procrastinating on the Burda. I knew it wouldn't be difficult, just a little time consuming, so I didn't push myself to get started, and I almost missed my deadline not ordering notions in time. 

Accomplishment:  I sewed all the things in my "planning" list from my May! Woohoo! 

Mid Year Goals Check

Where has the year gone?!?! This is bananas!

At the start of the year, I had some goals:

Patterns:

Goal was to use more of the Style Arc patterns I've purchased and to use ANY of the Jalie patterns.

No and almost yes (ha!). I've sewn some SA patterns but they've been new patterns that I had to have and then sewed up right away. I have a decent stash of SA patterns and need to use them. I have sewn my first Jalie (Scarf collar top) and LOVE it!

Here is the muslin:

I remember buying this fabric thinking DD would love it; but she did not. So it's been awaiting it's turn to become something. I think I actually like it for this top! I wasn't paying attention and cut the back with the faces right side up but the front they're upside down. Plus I didn't want to waste fabric for the ties in case this didn't work out so I ended them where the fabric ended for the other pattern pieces. So this particular version won't be finished.

I've made a 5/8" swayback adjustment, small 1/4" armhole dart + cheater FBA. DO NOT be surprised if my next post has like 4 of these. Seriously. I'm in love with the fit through the shoulders and upper back and the length is perfect. I'm off work until Tuesday so sewing WILL happen :) just not today or tomorrow. One more trip to the college with my daughter until move-in day!

My other WIPs:

M6866 in this lovely blue-grey textured knit that is too thin for a dress. I'm going to copy a cami and lengthen it to a slip (from tricot). I love the fit too much to give it up or chop it to a top!

V9056 in black/white ponte.

I was sad-mad when I realized this view has no seam allowance at the neckline or armholes. It's to be left raw. No. No. NO! I made a binding that works. I was debating if I should hem it but I don't mind it un-hemmed...but those other raw edges would not work for me. Photos to come soon.

New Mid Year Goal: The illustrious Carolyn at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic has challenged me! She knows I lament on my pattern collection and then I buy more patterns. And then I have dozens of patterns strewn about all over...Sigh. So she has challenged me to No New Patterns! til the end of the year. No envelope patterns, no PDF patterns, no FREE PDF patterns. No. New. Patterns. The exception is Burda because obvs, I subscribe.

I accept the challenge!

Fabric:

I was starting to feel overwhelmed by the stash. I don't know how many yards I've added but I've only placed 6 (!!) Fabric Mart orders this year and 2 Fashion Fabrics Club orders. I visited the new SR Harris and bought 3 yards of denim and I purchased a couple of cuts from Hancock before the closure. In contrast, in 2015 I placed 15 Fabric Mart orders in the first half of the year--Plus who only knows how many visits to Hancock and SR Harris (a lot).

We'll call that progress!

Budget:

I never set a specific number but I know that I've spent less on sewing this year than any other. A large part of that is due to moving, my daughter's graduation and party, etc.

Skills:

I listed 6 skills in my 2016 post:

1) Floaty fabrics: Nope. All the nopes. I have yet to fully attempt to tame the floaty fabric beast.

2) Sew a blazer: Not yet. I want to, I really do. It'll probably be a Burda. And probably in August!

3) Sew at least 6 (for the year) Burda patterns: Done! This year, IMO, has been phenomenal for Burda. I've sewn something from each issue so far this year. And I'm planning to go the distance. Sewing at least one thing, for myself, from each issue of the magazine.

Jan-Feb-Mar-Apr-May-June

4) Sew a prom dress: DID THAT! It was challenging and I had to get creative at times and stretch myself. It was a fantastic experience.

5) Sew pajamas: I sewed 2 nightgowns! :) I still need pj shorts and pants. So this is still a goal.

6) Sew a summer wardrobe: Quasi completed. I made some dresses and tops. I think I don't really know what I want in a summer wardrobe! And one may think; well it's only July...but usually by August I'm moving on to fall sewing. Because September is hit or miss. And by October it can be winter. LOL! Ok, not winter, winter, but cold enough for tights and boots and coats...like how we have 55 degree mornings and it's the end of June!

I think I'm off to a good start for the first half of 2016!

On a personal note; with my birthday being in early July, it's always a reflective time. Halfway through another year...another year older. It always makes me take a step back and examine where I am in my life. So, I'll be turning 37 in a few days. I'll be getting divorced in a few months. I'll be sending my first kid off to college in 7 weeks. I moved this year and L-O-V-E my new house. June made a year at my job. I'm in a good place. I like it!

Okay fine...I just sneaked that in there. :-p It's been an uphill battle for awhile (as in  >50% of the marriage) with blended family issues.  Add in some other stuff and the best decision for everyone is to go our separate ways.

July Plans

Guess what I have NOT done? 

Worked on DDs quilt since like February. I'm a horrible mom. I don't know if it'll be completed before school starts. Maybe she won't notice. Maybe I can send it for her birthday - which is like 2.5 weeks after school starts.

Oy. 

So...

-Quilt top
-Burda Challenge for July

-Dress for a bridal shower 

-Fabric Mart post  (I need new skirts so perhaps I'll try to go in that direction)

When I drafted this post I was set on making like 30 million skirts (or 2-4, same thing). Well, I was bored and it was a beautiful day so to escape the chill of the office I went to the mall and found cute skirts at Ann Taylor Loft!

I was just combing through my patterns for a skirt pattern for a cut of white rayon twill and found this for $10.

It looks REALLY cute on me! I'll model it with my new Jalie tops :)

And I found this one but not in my size. I found it online and debated ordering it (I hate their $8.95 shipping and feel like cardholders should get a better deal). Well today they were having a free shipping special on all orders. Score! So for $25, I got this one too:

We'll have to wait for it to come to tell if it's love. The white skirt is a 14 and in-store they had this one in a 10. Hahaha! I put it "on my body" and decided it could be cute if it were, you know, my size.

2 New Dresses: McCall's 6884 and Vogue 8904

I'm so happy with these two!

I'm not 100% sure I'm going to finish the contest but no matter, I am off to a great start for my casual summer wardrobe!!!

I first attempted V8904 December 2014 (here). It was a disaster.

Mostly due to the fabric but I've lost enough weight that the size I'd originally cut fits much better now.

I got the striped jersey awhile ago and it felt a little too heavy at first for this pattern. The front and back are a basic tank dress and then the shingles (4 front and back on this view) are added. That is quite a bit of layering. But once I started working with it, it proved to be a nicely behaved jersey. Bonus - the edges don't curl after cutting. Score!

I cut a size 16 with no changes. I cut the front piece out and then the shingles. I marked the underlayer by folding up the paper and then making a dotted line with a fabric marker.

The shingles are the same front and back. Sooooo I was cutting everything right side up, single layer and cut out ALL of the back shingles. Also right side up.

When I went to attach the back shingles I realized my error. DOH. I had to eek out those additional layers and just barely made it! WHEW! But that meant not having the 3/4 sleeves I envisioned.

I attached the shingles on the sewing machine and then basted front shingles to front and back to back. I then serged the side seams.

I made no attempt to stripe match but it seems it went okay. Score!

I am very happy with the dress! Very happy!!! 

McCall's 6884 has been made a couple of times before and just makes me super happy. It's only time consuming because of hemming the fronts but otherwise it's such a quick project with lots of bang for the buck IMO.

I cut a size 16 as per usual for this pattern. I added black bands to the neckline and armholes after deciding to go with a colorblocked option.

Remember a couple years ago when this striped/floral print was huge?! I managed to snag 2 yards of this nice ITY from Fabric Mart back in summer of 2014 and have been hoarding it. Well, 2 yards was not enough for a maxi dress! But 18-month sewer me didn't know that :)

I was all distraught and was going to go with a short option when I remembered the version I made here. Ahhhhh I can use solid black and that'll be awesome!!! 

I absolutely ADORE this dress! I am certain this will be a go-to option this summer!

My posture is so bad. I swear my side seam isn't that crooked (on the bodice) but POSTURE!

I just love the floral print over the black & white stripe

Little bit of a split there! :-O 

LOL! But it isn't open or doesn't open very high when you walk.

Love. Love. LOVE!!!  I will probably make another one and add a couple of inches to wear it with heels. 

Finished: Vogue 9155

I was working my loungewear plan and got the overwhelming urge to make new pants! You guys know I love making pants!

When this pattern was first released, I just had to have view C. It has a yoke and cool pockets and stitched front creases. 

Totally didn't feel like making a muslin (I know, I know) and decided to do some standard adjustments and go for "wearable muslin". I went with a size 16 and after measuring decided to remove 3/4" from the front rise, add nothing to the back rise and do some petite-ing that I've learned I need with pants. I remove 3/8" via a wedge at the side seam, tapering to nothing at the inseam. I realized at some point that my pants 'feel better' when I hike them up a tiny bit at the side.

It all almost worked. Hahaha!

I really like them with this red shirt! I like the proportions a lot. 

But after taking the pics below I like them WAY more with a pointy-toed heel.

All of my V9032 pants have been taken in and while I'm sure the 18 will be too big, the 16 was too small. Because it has a side zipper I was hesitant to tweak the side seams. On pair #2, I plan to add 1/2" at the waist front and back tapering down just below the thigh. I also totally need a full inner thigh adjustment.

I was cutting the pattern out and had a "hmm" moment at the leg shape...When I went to try them on I was all "this leg is kind of tapered". And then I went to look at the pattern envelope:

"Semi-fitted, tapered pants have contour waistband with continuous binding, and side-front pocket variations."

Oh. LOL! They ARE tapered!

So full disclosure, they are SNUG. They're not uncomfortable or binding but yeah, they are tight.

Shown here with my never blogged B5678 shirt in pink cotton oxford

LOVE the pockets! 

Seriously awesome pockets <3

The stitched creases are fun

I used the same pink shirting for the pockets! 

I didn't have any invisible zippers (and finished these on Christmas day) and was going to do a lapped zipper but I didn't want to use any extra seam allowance so I did a centered zip. My thread KEPT bunching and I just couldn't be bothered to fix it.

The pattern called for a loop and button closure but I left that off.

The other oddity that the pattern called for and that I changed...the back yoke is to be interfaced. But...it isn't then faced. Why would you want that interfacing just against your body directly?? That seems wrong...

I was going to blind hem by machine because I wanted them done. But I ended up doing it by hand. It takes longer but is SO worth it.

Final verdict: Love. Will totally remake with some extra room!

On another note; my December post is up on the Fabric Mart! This was made for Christmas day and here are the fun outtakes :)

Head over to the FabricMart Blog to read all about it!