Finished: New Look 6123

I previously sewed this in October 2014 for week 2 of the Fabric Mart challenge. I made a muslin and everything! I made it a second time later that month in ponte. When I went to my cousin's wedding last month, I wore the puple version and fell in love with the dress all over again.

I decided my polka-dot chambray would become another NL6123 vs S8014 (even though I love that pattern).

Both of my previous versions used the pleated skirt and I wanted to make the straight skirt this time. I pulled out the pattern and I had traced ALL of the pattern pieces. So I felt compelled to trace the other pieces this time and I'm glad I did. I didn't realize this pattern is now OOP. Boooo!

V.1 was lined and v.2 was a knit so I hadn't used the facings. I will say I find them just a bit shallow. I also want to raise the neckline a little - like 1/2". I am okay with a little cleavage during daytime, it's my tattoo that I prefer to cover up. Sidenote: I am totally going to look into laser removal. I don't hate it, I just hate the location now! But there's some tricky business to removing tattoos from brown skin so you have to find someone experienced.

Anyway. I used the facing as-is after having made changes to the bodice. So I have this happening on the inside...Oops.

Note to self: Add an inch to the facing! :-p

I assumed (oops) that the bodice was a 14 but it was a 16 and I traced the size 14 facings. Doh! I stitched them down which thankfully isn't visible because of the crossover.

Also, trying to preserve whatever amount of this fabric I could, I ended up cutting my skirt fronts too close to an edge that had a scissor snip. I interfaced it and took the seam a tiny bit deeper. Fingers crossed it stays put!

I made no other changes to the pattern from the original make.

• Shortened bust dart (moved the point 'back')
• Narrow shoulder adjustment
• Gaping armhole adjustment
• Removed width from center back tapering to nothing at waist
• Swayback adjustment
• Full butt adjustment

I could stand to add a tiny bit to the cap sleeve - maybe 1/2". I used an invisible zipper and topstitched the hem. I also tacked the facings down at the shoulder seams.

Matching at the top of the zipper

Matching the waist seam and darts

Really digging the vent and my red serger thread!!!! <3

The chambray cut, sewed and pressed as beautifully as cotton chambray does! Such a breeze to sew!

We're officially into fall here in Minneapolis and dusk arrives earlier. Plus the past 2 weekends have been crammed. I have had no time to photograph the gazillion finished garments I have.

I haven't been feeling well and am working from home today and figured I would FINALLY get this dress blogged (it's been finished since end of August/very early September). So I look haggard but just look past that. Okay? LOL!

These boots were the only shoes upstairs besides flip-flops...

I've really working out the fit for my back/butt on the CB seam!

You'll see (as do I now!) that my side seam is curved. I need more butt room (horizontally). Also, I've worn this twice already so the chambray has bagged out a bit in the seat. I'm sure it'll be fine when it's washed/dried.

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DDs sweatshirt turned out SO CUTE! Again, we were jam packed when she was here so I didn't get photos of it on her...or even the completely finished garment. Her Thursday's are a bit more open so hopefully she can get a friend to snap a few for me.

I was going to add decorative side seam zippers but the style lines and the super-duper drapey fabric made it a no go. The sweatshirt sort of collapses on itself and the zippers made it stiff.

I used Burda 1/2016 oversized hoodie with hi-low hem. I used a size 36, view A (the other views are longer and have pleating or gathering in the back). I ended up adding a band to the hem instead of hemming it.

I made the gathers in front and attached the hood via serger. And turned it out and saw this:

Oh. Well then...

I unpicked from the bad gathering on the right as viewed to the other side and reattached via sewing machine (yeah, I learn sometimes...) and was  able to get the hood in correctly (fronts touching).

This is before the bands were sewn

I tried it on because it is pretty oversized and it looked weird (probably because it's still way small for me). Saturday morning she came to show me the sweatshirt on her body and I swear it was THE cutest thing. I said with leggings, she said "with huge pants!". Ahhhh to be 18 again.

Wait...well, no. No thank you! Maybe 26...lol!!!

So many things to do yet. I have my September Burda in under the wire (needs hems), DD needs a black gown for concert performances. Because I am smart sometimes, I am making the non-fancy version of her prom dress (e.g., no lace, no illusion, no tulle, etc). And I am making the bodice with a stretch velvet. New-to-me fabric but I think I'll be okay. Oh and did I mention she needs this for her concert on October 8th? And I'm joining the PR outerwear contest and sewing the Clare coat from Closet Case Files. Plus the other stuff I want to sew.

WHEW!

Burda Challenge 03/2016 #118

I have been a little preoccupied with life things and haven't been around blogland much. So thank you everyone for the lovely comments on my Burda pants and Butterick skirt. I've worn the pants already and love them. And cannot WAIT to wear the skirt! It snowed today so...maybe in a little while. :)

So, Kathy posted things from the March issue that she was digging over on Instagram. Confessions of a Sewing Novice then mentioned she liked this weird top too. And whaddya know, I was feeling the same way about the odd little top from the March issue! So we made a pact to sew it up and here's my contribution to #teamtrashbagtop !  [See CoaSN version here]

I know. I looked at the line drawing and thought, "Oh, Burda"

But then I had to agree with the other ladies that even Burda's rectangle patterns just...work...so I went for it!

I used this Maggy London striped jersey that has been hanging in the stash since last summer (Fabric Mart of course) and traced a size 40. 

This pattern is so quick to trace and sew. It took me 90 minutes to trace, cut, sew and take photos. Win.

While I didn't bother to try to match stripes when cutting, it worked out pretty well when sewing. The pattern is intended to be left unhemmed and that's okay with me. I cut with my rotary cutter for a nice, crisp edge and did a little zigzag to tack the serged seam allowance. 

I kind of love it.

The front drape is made by taking 2 tucks. The cowl has a wonderfully drafted facing.

The back is voluminous but IT WORKS!

Cute and casual and my stripes mostly match! :)

My February Burda project is in the works. I have to run by Hancock to get zippers tomorrow and that should be wrapped up by weekend. I'm committed to the Burda Challenge this year! 

January Wrap-Up and Miscellany

My plans for January were:

• Burda of the month
• Fabric Mart garment
• S1374
• V9155
• Finish the quilt top
• Muslin DDs dress

Did not finish the quilt top. Not even close. I have not touched it in like 2 weeks. WAHHHHHHH. I also did not sew another pair of V9155. But I really need new pants that aren't blue, grey or black. Yes, I love those colors as neutrals but I'm over it! When you live in the tundra, your mind leaves winter behind long before spring shows up. So I'm ready to add to my pants wardrobe with a couple of non-neutrals. 

This month I sewed 12.5 yards:

• Butterick 6066 in a oyster colored crepe suiting - 2 yards (still need to photograph!)
• Simplicity 1364 in teal ponte - 1 3/8 yards
• McCall's 7199 in off-white ponte - 2.5
• Burda 01/2016 #103 in navy cotton lycra knit - 2.5 yards
• Simplicity 8014 in printed cotton poplin - 2.5 yards
• McCall's 7194 in off white lace print double knit and solid ponte - 1 5/8 yards
• I also started (and it will be finished this month...) the muslin for the prom dress. But I bought muslin for that so not counting it as yardage.

Favorite: Probably the Burda dress despite it's shortcomings :) It's just so cute!

FAIL: No huge fails this month; just had super high expectations of M7199 and it fell flat for me.

Accomplishments: Can I have 2?! OF COURSE I CAN! I have to say that exposed zipper in S1364. It really is a thing of beauty. Also, the fit I achieved on the bodice of the S8014 shirtdress made me proud.

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February plans of course are to work on my wardrobe for the contest and get started on the prom dress. Still sourcing fabrics, a trip to SR Harris is happening on Sunday!

Speaking of the dress...

I've intentionally not posted the dress I'm copying :)  I have asked for help on specific parts (like choosing fabrics) but I think that I may get information overload otherwise. So I'm just going to take it step by step and I'm sure the finished product will be pretty.

Can I just say that this is the first time I've ever actually purchased muslin!?  

I am absolutely in love with the whole concept now that I've gotten over my fear. DD is not impressed by the dress in muslin form. She also did not understand why I "thought" the hips were too big.

Well, let's see...YOU HAVE THE SKIRT ON OVER JEANS! lol!!!

Tonight I'll get the sleeves attached and the side seams sewn up in the bodice; and maybe even put in the zipper so she can try it on.

What I know so far:

1) I cut a 6 in the Simplicity skirt and a 36 in the Burda bodice. So the bodice is a bit bigger. I've pinched out the front mainly to line up the princess seams of the bodice with the seams on the skirt. I'll fit in on her with this pinched out and make other adjustments as needed. 

2) It's WAY too short! :) It sits about an inch from the floor right now. So we need several inches at least, to get it floor length when hemmed...but she doesn't have shoes yet so I'll have her go ahead and order those before I alter the length of the skirt.

3) As stated the hips are too big but the waist on the skirt was pretty perfect. We'll see how it all goes when the bodice and skirt are attached and the zipper is in.

4) The Burda bodice actually has 3/4 sleeves so I chopped them off randomly on the pattern; but in actuality it'll be more of a cap sleeve.

5) I must totally love this kid to collapse my dressform down to her size! Sheesh that's a lot of work with all those danged dials! The dress form hips are still bigger than hers...so Lily fills the skirt in a way she doesn't.

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DID YOU KNOW THAT CRAFTSY SELLS FABRIC?!

I though this was common knowledge but have run into 2 fabric lovers this week who wasn't aware so...public service and all that. ;-)

I scooped up 2 yards of Kaufman lightweight chambray for $17 with shipping. Much better than forcing myself to shop on Fabric.com and to spend $35 to get free shipping. Win. And it's exactly what I was looking for.

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I bought new shoes.

I know. I am always buying new shoes. BUT(!), I don't have any black sandals. I know, crazy right? And thinking up my summer wardrobe made me take a peek, and I found a pair that I love for a great price.

They're by Franco Sarto - $20!

The second pair sold out in between my purchasing them, and my order being processed :( 

Isn't that such a cute basic?!? They're Dr. Scholls

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The quilt. I swear I'm going to finish it. Swear. And I'd better start my son's right after if his have hopes of being completed by 2018 :-p

Burda Style 06/2015 #121: Fitted Knit Sheath Dress

You probably forgot I was in the Burda Challenge for 2015; I made a project for Jan and Feb and hated the March issue and didn't love the April issue. My Burda projects died off.

I still plan to make a jacket from May (this month) and the vest from July (next month??)...and have several August and September garments planned.

This dress was made a tiny bit at a time over the past week; I highly recommend it as a method when you're busy! :)

OMG THE GUSSETS!!! Swoooooon.

When I traced off this pattern I was really nervous about how fitted it is! I cut a size 42 adding 3/8" seam allowances at the neckline and the gussets and 1" throughout the rest.

Nervous.

I used 3/8" seams through the bust (I needed that extra space!) and ended up going back in from the waist to the hem and removing the extra. It has to fitted so that the gathers don't sag.  I had a hell of a time gathering that front piece and then had the smart idea to use a piece of elastic to gather the back.

Guess what? Not smart.

Just gather it like you're supposed to.

Then, I got the bright idea that I didn't "need" seam allowances on the 'inside' of the facings.

Nope. Not too bright. :)

When it flipped out, the serged ends of the facing showed. So I topstitched, not as indicated on the pattern but rather followed the serger stitches. Then I did tiny tacking to keep the collar folded in place.

I love it from the front but the back is WHEW! so close fitting! With a jacket though, it's pretty cute. Also, I don't know what would need to be done to keep the collar up against the body like that. It wants to flop.

Also, as per usual, I added no hem allowance, and removed 1 1/4" from the hem; and hemmed it at 1 1/4".

Oh and the fabric is from Fabric Mart, but it isn't my favorite. I washed and dried it and that was fine. But every time I pressed it, it's like it faded a little. We'll see how it wears.

RTW...And Burda Mag (PHOTO HEAVY!)

Here I go with my frequent blogging again :-p

I shop for clothes so rarely and hate the inconsistent sizing found out there. So I tend to only buy from 3 places now:

Target (primarily tops, dresses and jackets)
JCPenney (Worthington is still my favorite RTW pant)
NY & Co (I can ONLY buy knit tops here. But their sales make it worth it when I do)

I had no plans today and a 15% off coupon for JCP and really wanted some cropped pants. I found LOTS of awesome things to try on though!

I've been wanting a maxi skirt and at $11 I liked this one enough to buy it. Even though my rectangle shape is so apparent.

I really, really liked the idea of this skirt but not the print, the length, the zipper...I do need to do a colorblocked skirt though. SOON!

I was NOT pleased with the imbalanced zipper tape! GROSS.

True to form; the size 12 pants were too tight in the thighs but fit PERFECTLY in the waist.

I absolutely loved this top. And yep...the Medium fit in the neck/shoulders but too tight across the bust, hangs up on the butt and too tight at the biceps, as seen below.

I got the large in a different colorway (white background). The sleeve bands are STILL too tight.  :/

My friend said "I'm sure there's a technical reason they're 'too small' but I think they look great." :) Drag line city at those big 'ole protruding thighs of mine. No. No. No.

This top reminded me why I love a peplum. Really helps balance my figure. This one was too tight...they didn't have my size AND the fabric was a weird feeling poly knit. No thanks...I'll make my own. I did like the slim Obi belt though!

These pants are a 14. They are about 2" too large in the waist. I'm getting ready to sit down with my seam ripper now.

WHO AM I?!?!

I am voluntarily doing alterations on RTW! :-) But I know I don't have time right now to fit a new pant pattern and I like these a lot.

I probably should have gotten this dress. I liked it but not enough to pay for $24 for it. :) Life of a sewer.

Lastly, I ran across two items that captured my HEART! I will try to recreate them; soon.

I was thinking of the new Vogue (V1465) when I saw this one but L pointed out that S1070 is a closer match because it has the yokes

Where can I get faux leather bias tape?

I saw this as I was walking out the door and gasped. I LOVE it! I got lots of suggestions on IG for recreating it so hopefully this one will come sooner rather than later!

WHEW!!!!

Yesterday, I got my August Burda in the mail and really loved several of the garments. I rarely review Burda as so many bloggers do an awesome job at it already...

I think this is so different and interesting!

I skipped past this in the preview but I kind of love that it's a chiffon "sweatshirt"! I am going to make this! With jersey for the bands

This bias cut skirt is simple but looks so beautiful on the model.

The construction is baffling to me though. The front has a facing but the back has a waistband.

I love e.v.e.r.y.t.h.i.n.g. about this jacket! The collar, the puffed sleeve, THE POCKETS, all the buttons. It's just beautiful. I will splurge on some wool for this at some point and make it over our long winter.

There were some beautiful plus size patterns too. One day I'm going to work up the nerve to grade down a plus pattern!

A plus sized top with lovely details and shaping! :-O

This little capelet is ridiculously gorgeous to me.

Yes. Okay, this can go into 'shapeless sack' territory but I think it has enough interesting details to be elevated.

Still here?

And then Westmoon (she always has the digs), posted the September preview and I lost it. There are A LOT of fantastic garments in this issue, IMO and so far, these are my faves.

VERY interesting lines in this little jacket/top

Gorgeous. Gorgeous. Gorgeous. 

This is what Saturday's in October in the Midwest were made for. Must have.

Beautiful! And you know I loves me some wraps.

This coat made me SQUEEEEEEEEE!  I will do a length between the two but yeah...

Did you know that if you're in the US, you can get a subscription to the REAL Burda (not that janky US Edition) through GLP News? (nayy) You can also buy individual issues for $10-$13 (I believe), depending on when you catch them in the mailing. 

So that's the end of the epic post of epicness...LOL!

A Different Kind of Mini Wardrobe...

First, I won 2nd place in the Wardrobe Contest on PR! Wooooohoo! Prize is a $75 gift certificate to Fabric Mart. You all know that's right up my alley! :)

There was some pretty strong competition over there and if you haven't checked out the entries, you SHOULD!

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My last attempt at an interview suit didn't make me so happy but I had to persevere and make another one! I decided on the Burda 3/2014 jacket and my TNT straight skirt, Butterick 5760. The weather had been absolutely dreadful here so I decided to make pants too! I used my TNT Vogue 9032.

Fabric is a wool/poly/lycra from Fabric Mart. Cut well. Sewed well. Pressed amazingly. I wore the pants to the interview yesterday and boy did those puppies grow! Wah! I came home and popped them in the dryer (to satisfy my own curiosity) and they fit fine. So we'll see about THAT.

Today I wore my red S1696 pants made from RPL and after about 2 hours they grew. This is why I avoid Lycra in my pants and especially in jeans. Where's the "comfort" if they can't make it through the day?!?! Whine...

B5760 skirt was made the same as here, the only change being a 1.5" hem instead of 2".
V9032 was made the same as previously...I left off the pockets and added belt carriers.

Even with TNT's, side seams get basted before being sewn. My pants have a 3/8" seam at the waist, 1/2" through the hip and 5/8" down. My skirt has 5/8" seams through waist and hip and 1" through the rest.

The jacket was muslined (as per my last post) in a size 42 and I ended up with the following changes:
*3/4" swayback
*taper the princess seams -- front and side front -- from 1/8" at the shoulder to 3/8" through to the waist, tapering to nothing.
*added 3/4" to the bicep on the sleeve. I measured and got 14 3/4" but somehow told myself it was 14 1/4". So i wanted a 15" sleeve. It's a little loose but doesn't look oversized. I made this adjustment on the upper sleeve only.
*I used 1/2" seam allowances and ended up using 5/8" at the front of the sleeve.
* I traced the separate facing piece but lost it during the cutting process...so I have excess at the shoulder seam on the facing. OOPS!

I am such a Burda fan.

It is an unlined jacket so I took the time to bind the back seam allowances; all others are serged with a narrow 3-thread overlock. I am really loving this jacket!

The photos!!!!

No, I didn't wear my FitBit to the interview! :)

All hems were done by hand

Just a little extra fabric in back.

OH the fight I had with this notched collar! It was my own fault; I'd sewn the wrong portion of the collar _and_ trimmed it back. I probably should've just cut a new collar and been done with it!

4 3/8" snaps as the closure

Pretty binding!!! You can just see the longer facing peeking through on the left :)

I probably should've done a slip-stitch. But I will usually wear the jacket closed so...

I ended up wearing the pants to yesterday's interview and will wear the skirt to the next one (different companies)

Skirt bias binding; top finished with button and elastic loop

I am really digging lapped zippers lately! :)

More binding on the waistband of the pants!

SUPER happy with how neat my fly-front turned out...

...less so about my machine stitched blind hem.

I'd run out of time and had to hem these by machine once I decided I was going to wear them. I was literally sewing on the last hook and eye about 90 seconds before I had to leave out the door.

Things went really well and the (90 minute!!!) phone interview I had today for another position went even better! I have a second interview tomorrow and an in-person for that job next week. Both plan to make a decision the week of June 8th at the latest.