Not *too* Boring Basics: Butterick 5760

versions 5 and 6... :) Hey, that's what TNT's are for!!!

I'm at the point where I really need to retrace this pattern onto something nice and sturdy, it's starting to look a little beat up.

As per usual, I cut a 16 front and 18 back. I removed the excess fabric from the front skirt that is supposed to be gathered. The side seams are always basted before being sewn - different fabrics or if it's lined or unlined affects the fit. Both of these are unlined, they're both sateen with a slight stretch, so both have 5/8" side seams until just after the hip and it increases to 1-1 1/4". I haven't adjusted the pattern for the pegging - even though I often peg it - because you just never know. I do like the skirt in it's original width, it just depends on the fabric I'm using...and it doesn't take much to tweak side seams.

The one thing I DO need to change on the pattern is the hip curve. I don't need that much curvature and always remove it.

I finished the panel-print sateen skirt 2 weeks ago. Honestly...where does the time go!?!  I'm sure some of you have seen this Maggy London sateen 'in the wild'. I passed on it twice and then saw a dress made up on PR and the next time it went on sale I managed to snag a panel.

I *just* eeeked out my skirt with the single panel!!!

just scraps remain!

I tried to match at the side seams as best I could.

I ended up having to cut the facings from a different fabric. I rummaged through the scrap bin and used this lightweight suiting (I made a bias cut skirt from Burda mag with it last year). It is white/black on one side and black/white on the other.

I went with an invisible zipper and topstitched hem.

The color is really 'me'. I have a few tops in my wardrobe that I can pair this with. I love it with this coral tee (Target) and my new jacket.

My son was in the room while I was taking photos and he had me laughing the entire time. You can see how terrible my posture is on this back photo :/ Also, it is a "sensitive time" and I seriously look 4 months pregnant about 2 days a month. I always manage to want to photograph something fitted during this time! LOL!!! 

Because olive is one of my favorite colors, I have plans to add a few more items in this color to the wardrobe. This fabric is closer to a moss/ivy green but it's in the family, and that works for me! :)

When I made these olive pants I was surprised by how versatile the color is. That led me down a path of wanting all the olive things! :)

And they fit better now! :-p

For this skirt, I wasn't as smart as I was with the floral one. The fabric is narrower so I ordered 1 1/4 yard. On the floral skirt I cut front, waistband, then back.  This time I cut front, waistband, facings then...uh oh. I can't fit my back piece because of the vent. I moved things around, over and over and in the end I had to cut single layer and eliminate the vent. But it worked out! Whew!

I am all for serging the edge of facings but I had a bit of red bias tape to match my serger thread, Oh and on this one I went for a centered zip and again...topstitched hem

I forgot to serge the back seams before sewing the zipper. Arrrgh!

(this is closer to the true color than the photo above)

Yep! It's love! I think I will be pulling this out A LOT this fall, even though this sateen wrinkles if you think about maybe looking at it! :-p

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This month I jumped into the trends and sewed a bomber jacket for my Fabric Mart project! In a crazy printed ponte - and I love it!

It's a Burda pattern -- which Burda's consistency and fit make up for their awful instructions to me! I cut my normal 40 neckline / 42 for the rest but since I used ponte and the pattern was intended for satin, I left off the full bicep adjustment and because it is gathered at the hem, I didn't worry about a swayback adjustment. I made slightly narrower bands than the pattern called for and used a run-of-the-mill black zipper from Wawak. I have been staying away from poly/lycra pontes (give me some rayon!!) but for something like this, it's okay with me. I also lined it with a poly/lycra interlock and left out the interfacing. You can check it out over on the Fabric Mart blog!

The Fabricista Fashion Challenge will be starting up soon so I won't be posting for September. I really enjoy watching the progress! Also, the PR Sewing Bee will be starting in September! It's not my kind of comp so I won't be sewing, but I'll be watching - for sure.

Butterick 5760 (again!!)

The first time I made this skirt, I decided it was a TNT. I really love this skirt on me! This may be my 5th?? I don't remember :)

I generally keep my fabric purchases to around $10/yd or less, and I had my eye on this boucle but $25/yd was a bit steep for me. When it went 50% off, I jumped on it!

I bought 1 yard, knowing I'd use it for a skirt. I was going to use it for a Burda that I wanted to make but decided I'd better go TNT with it. I just love the wide waistband (they call it a yoke) on this skirt, the length and you just can't go wrong with a straight skirt.

I made no changes to the flat pattern - as per usual I used a size 16 for the front and 18 for the back, and I shortened the front length 3/4" (between the waist to where the crotch would be). However, on previous versions, I had to take in the side seams quite a bit. Not so with this boucle (and lining).  I used my Wonder clips to baste the side seams and was surprised to find I needed to sew the side seams at 3/8" (vs 5/8' or 3/4" on prior versions). I used an acetate lining fabric in navy. Lastly, I hemmed at 1 1/4" instead of the 2" included in the pattern. I wanted it to hit *right* at my knee.

I really like it with the blue top and nude shoes! I thought the blue would be too match-matchy but I love it. On the right I paired it with the other NY and Co. top that I bought last month - it's a lightweight sweater with a tie neck. It has a little puff sleeve too which I think is cute. Not sure I'd pair those shoes with it but my shoes are half unpacked and they were available :) 

I mean, I just love this skirt pattern!!! I used an invisible zipper and kept the original slit in the pattern. I briefly considered trying to turn it into a vent but I think my brain wasn't operating at peak during that time :-p I'd found a tutorial for lining a skirt with slit and tried to follow along but nope. That didn't go so well either. 

I sewed the facing to the lining and allowed the lining to hang free except for at the slit. I hand sewed the lining to the skirt at the center seam, and then slipstitched the lining to the skirt at the slit. The lining is also slipstitched by hand at the zipper.

So, while there's nothing too exciting about a straight skirt in navy, I think this will be an amazingly versatile work skirt this spring and summer.

(This skirt was finished almost a month ago - NOT during the move! LOL!)

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My move went okay! I was pretty much exhausted for days and days. I couldn't muster up any energy to get the sewing cave together. I focused first on the main rooms: kitchen and bathroom and then the living room. The dining room is currently a repository. LOL!

I am sitting in my living room right now and I just adore it. It's so tiny but so cozy!! I have a couple other things I want to purchase--a coffee table and tv stand--and a 2nd chair to match the first.

I love this corner the most <3

On Friday evening I was home alone and finally mustered up a little energy to try to get the cave set up, and I did a little more work on the prom dress.

Maybe by summer my sewing room will be fully functioning! LOL!

I need more lights, even though the overhead lighting over the machines isn't too bad, it's nonexistent over the cutting area. My fabric is in a room down the hall. I'm still unsure about final placement of everything, but I have to get the darn dress finished!

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Lastly, I am so annoyed at Bloglovin's attempt to make their site another social media-esque site. I just want to read blogs :/ I don't want to be advertised to or see what other's are saving or liking or whatever. UGH.

Wagon Tumblin'

I've been very, very good about not purchasing fabric but I am itching for warmer weather and warm weather sewing.

When I started the PR contest I was determined to sew from stash. But we all know the temptation of NEW fabrics, right?! :)

I had a free shipping offer (for premium members) from Fabric Mart. I have been looking for *this* green gingham cotton shirting for AGES! Not lime green. Not hunter green. Just a nice spring green. This FM offering was made better by the fact that it's seersucker. Perfect for a casual top!

And then I looked at my other favorite categories - sateen, crepe, challis, ponte, double knit, jerseys and ITY knits. I know I probably missed out on some good knits since that sale just ended but probably all the better for my wallet.

peach crepe, green gingham shirting, 'papaya' jersey knit 

berry sateen, grey geometric double knit and army green crepe

M7167 jumpsuit, S2255 shirt, M7350 dress

V9032 pants, B6244 jacket, Burda 4/2015 dress

My spring/summer sewing doesn't appear very cohesive, I know, but I am filling gaps. I have things to go with these things -- and the items I've sewn for the wardrobe contest) -- plus I've filled a few holes with some RTW purchases. And a little splurging too.

J.Crew has never, ever been on my radar because OMG the pricing! But I saw this gingham jacket and just about keeled over from swooning so hard. It was steep, for sure, but I signed up for a credit card (don't worry - I'll pay it off asap! LOL!) for the 15% discount.

It's really, really, lovely!

It's a linen/cotton blend with lots of fun details. The jacket is unlined but the sleeves are faced AND lined. It has an optional drawstring across the back. I thas the fun pop of color in the bias tape and it fits very nicely (save for my bionic biceps).

I have a few things I already envision pairing it with so hopefully it'll be featured as part of some cute outfits soon!

On the cutting table is my TNT skirt, B5760 in this yummmmmmy denim look boucle from Fabric Mart:

Front and back of both shell and lining are constructed. Have to sew side seams on both, sew them together, and hem.

Now, if only spring would come back to the tundra...

A Different Kind of Mini Wardrobe...

First, I won 2nd place in the Wardrobe Contest on PR! Wooooohoo! Prize is a $75 gift certificate to Fabric Mart. You all know that's right up my alley! :)

There was some pretty strong competition over there and if you haven't checked out the entries, you SHOULD!

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My last attempt at an interview suit didn't make me so happy but I had to persevere and make another one! I decided on the Burda 3/2014 jacket and my TNT straight skirt, Butterick 5760. The weather had been absolutely dreadful here so I decided to make pants too! I used my TNT Vogue 9032.

Fabric is a wool/poly/lycra from Fabric Mart. Cut well. Sewed well. Pressed amazingly. I wore the pants to the interview yesterday and boy did those puppies grow! Wah! I came home and popped them in the dryer (to satisfy my own curiosity) and they fit fine. So we'll see about THAT.

Today I wore my red S1696 pants made from RPL and after about 2 hours they grew. This is why I avoid Lycra in my pants and especially in jeans. Where's the "comfort" if they can't make it through the day?!?! Whine...

B5760 skirt was made the same as here, the only change being a 1.5" hem instead of 2".
V9032 was made the same as previously...I left off the pockets and added belt carriers.

Even with TNT's, side seams get basted before being sewn. My pants have a 3/8" seam at the waist, 1/2" through the hip and 5/8" down. My skirt has 5/8" seams through waist and hip and 1" through the rest.

The jacket was muslined (as per my last post) in a size 42 and I ended up with the following changes:
*3/4" swayback
*taper the princess seams -- front and side front -- from 1/8" at the shoulder to 3/8" through to the waist, tapering to nothing.
*added 3/4" to the bicep on the sleeve. I measured and got 14 3/4" but somehow told myself it was 14 1/4". So i wanted a 15" sleeve. It's a little loose but doesn't look oversized. I made this adjustment on the upper sleeve only.
*I used 1/2" seam allowances and ended up using 5/8" at the front of the sleeve.
* I traced the separate facing piece but lost it during the cutting process...so I have excess at the shoulder seam on the facing. OOPS!

I am such a Burda fan.

It is an unlined jacket so I took the time to bind the back seam allowances; all others are serged with a narrow 3-thread overlock. I am really loving this jacket!

The photos!!!!

No, I didn't wear my FitBit to the interview! :)

All hems were done by hand

Just a little extra fabric in back.

OH the fight I had with this notched collar! It was my own fault; I'd sewn the wrong portion of the collar _and_ trimmed it back. I probably should've just cut a new collar and been done with it!

4 3/8" snaps as the closure

Pretty binding!!! You can just see the longer facing peeking through on the left :)

I probably should've done a slip-stitch. But I will usually wear the jacket closed so...

I ended up wearing the pants to yesterday's interview and will wear the skirt to the next one (different companies)

Skirt bias binding; top finished with button and elastic loop

I am really digging lapped zippers lately! :)

More binding on the waistband of the pants!

SUPER happy with how neat my fly-front turned out...

...less so about my machine stitched blind hem.

I'd run out of time and had to hem these by machine once I decided I was going to wear them. I was literally sewing on the last hook and eye about 90 seconds before I had to leave out the door.

Things went really well and the (90 minute!!!) phone interview I had today for another position went even better! I have a second interview tomorrow and an in-person for that job next week. Both plan to make a decision the week of June 8th at the latest.

DONE! Pattern Review Contest Entry

Sooooo uhmm, remember those plans I uploaded before? Yeah...Never mind those.

In the end, I took out all the things I've sewn since April 1st and spread them out. I started putting together items I thought would work best (and of course that filled the contest requirements of 4 tops + 3 bottoms where all tops match all bottoms, and 2 sewer's choice).

I am very happy with my final wardrobe!!! It took an eternity to take all the photos but I am digging this wardrobe/SWAP type sewing. I want to sew all the things but I want to actually WEAR the dang things! :)

I really wanted a white piece and decided I didn't like the Burda kimono top as much as I thought. It just isn't 'crisp' enough for me. We'll see if I can make it wearable...I was *this* close to sewing a white jacket or vest or cardigan but seriously could not muster up the energy to fiddle with one more pattern. Just COULD NOT.

Since I'd been raiding my UFO box; I pulled out the navy wool jersey M6996 cardigan I cut back in January, which was pinned together in some places but still unsewn. Whipped that puppy up today as one of my "premade" / sewer's choice items. I love how well the dark navy plays with other items!

I named my wardrobe "Work Hard, Play Harder" because I really want to get my wardrobe working well together. I don't mind having some items that are exclusively 'work' or 'play' but I wanted to have a bit more cohesion and I think that I accomplished it!

Here are my combinations; you'll notice some are 'missing', but I only put together outfits that I would ACTUALLY wear.

For the dress there's obviously two options; dress alone plus dress with cardigan.

Since I know I wouldn't wear the loose, floaty NL6110 top with the straight skirt and it's too voluminous to pair with the cardigan, I eliminated those options.

For the grey top (Buda 6911); while the cardigan worked with the black skirt with the other tops, the navy, grey and black did nothing for me together, so I eliminated that option

 For the black/white striped top (M6839):

For the animal print top (M7094):

All of the items have been reviewed here on the blog; I've made M6996 a couple other times so I'm sure there's a review here somewhere :) I cut a size medium. The end :-p

Simplicity 2369

Butterick 5760

New Look 6110

McCall's 6839, Burda 6911, Vogue 1411
McCall's 7094
Style Arc Sandra

My fave looks:

Insta-TNT; Butterick 5760

I mean, is that really possible?!? 

I have every single Butterick wardrobe pattern I could find. There are some great things in there. Even if it's only 1 or 2 pieces, at a less than $2 price tag, it's usually worth it for me if there's a single gem.

I bought this pattern for the cardigan 

While browsing the collection looking for a skirt pattern, I happened upon this one. 

Hmmm. Look at that nice straight skirt. Look at that cool waistband. It's a nice length...it only needs 1 yard of fabric for all sizes. SOLD!

I first cut it in this striped cotton and used a size 18 based on a finished hip of 45.5". I removed some length from CF but did not add to CB. After basting the side seams, I ended up with 3/8" waist seams tapered to 1.25" side seams. I kept the 2" hem (LOVE!) and removed some of the extreme hip curvature.

I did a centered zip and top-stitched hem and just serged the edge of the facing.

Definitely consider this on the more 'casual' spectrum of things. And I think it'll be super versatile in my wardrobe.

I was all, "what is that poof of fabric..." and then remembered that you were to ease in the front waist to the yoke. I do not like. 

On Version 2, I removed that excess ease and shaved off the hip curve. I also cut the front pattern piece down to a 16 (keeping the back an 18). The front wedge was made at 3/4" and lowered the darts an inch.

This fabric was picked up from the remnant bin at SR Harris. OMG it's so awesome! It's some sort of suiting that is nice and thick but not heavy, has a tiny bit of stretch, washes and dries nicely and presses well.

I used a contrast facing this time and bound it with bright blue bias tape.

I also did a lapped zipper and added a button and loop at the top.

Another GREAT staple in the closet! And bottom #2 in my wardrobe contest entry. I also started cutting my jeans out today. 

Ahhhhh.

If you have this pattern (it is OOP now) and want a straight skirt, try this one out!!!