Miscellany; In Which I Whine About All the Things

Because my middle name is miscellaneous... No, not really, I just have a lot of random thoughts, often.

New Look 6189. I made this pattern before, a few months after I started sewing. They were REALLY cute just too high in the rise and I knew I'd never wear them. I made them again in a suiting fabric and messed up and got one leg off grain. But the fit of the pattern worked!

I had them in my fall plans out of a crepe. When I ordered this fabric, I made sure it was opaque and that it was suitable for pants. I missed the texture. It's pebbled and I don't like it. I like the color but don't love it and with the texture it's just a big ole' NO for me. I'm not completely anti-polyester but with that, this color and that pebbled texture it reads too much like old-man pants.

Also, I forgot that the leg on this pant is MUCH, MUCH fuller than the envelope suggests.

Meh. I left these alone, and unfinished, and moved on to the wrap top of my dreams (haha!). I have to do a full review on this one because this pattern is stupid and dumb. Yes, very mature, I know. But it is. It did not help the cause that I used a (beautiful, printed) polyester charmeuse. I swear when I walked into the room the fabric would fray. Peek around the corner -- fray. Think about walking downstairs - fray. Good grief.

M7358

I'm going to finish it because it is pretty. So perhaps, after awhile, my anger at it will subside.

Also, I want to finish this jacket (B6141)!!! But first, the funnel-ish collar is just wrong. I think it's drafted incorrectly and I don't know how to fix it with the way the front is constructed. So I'm going to use one of the other collar views.

Then, I had a hell of a time setting this sleeve and when I went to take it off the dress form I noticed a few small puckers in front (which in the photo below I thought it was just because I hadn't pressed it). So I have to re-do part of the sleeve.

UGH.

But it's cute!!

My daughter is on week 3 of college and mentioned wanting a robe for going to and from the bathroom. She's a huge fan of dark green (hunter, pine, etc) and I found a great plaid cotton flannel at SR Harris to sew up M7297

They both washed and dried well and I was excited to get started. 

It wasn't until I went to cut out the solid parts (the bands) that I realized the green is FAR thicker/heavier than the plaid. And the bands are all sewn double. I'm not so sure this will work out and am tempted to call it quits and buy a robe!

Wah. Wah. WOE IS MEEEE.

So you know what this means? Mojo is kaput. Which is fine; I've been sewing like a crazy person despite being super busy with family stuff.  The next two weekends were already non-sewing time because of existing plans. Plus I have a new book to read. So I'll take some time off, clean my sewing room and I'm sure I'll be all excited to jump back into it :)

I still need to photograph my polka-dot New Look 6123 (which I've worn) and maybe I'll get pics of the NL6189 pants on. 

Other Stuffs...

Have you been following along over at Carolyn's with all her fun giveaway's for National Sewing Month? 

Do you know that Saturday begins OWOP and there are giveaways? 

I'll be using my trusty Butterick 5760 skirt to participate!

Also, I changed my blog theme again. I wanted more white space. I like it.

Finished: Style Arc Jennifer City Shorts

Alternatively titled: I Should Have Let January End

The PR wardrobe contest begins tomorrow. I set out to muslin the Style Arc shorts thinking I'd complete those first. I was so excited as I've wanted this pattern for awhile.

Let us talk about the pattern a bit.

a) I'm firmly on the "slash pockets are of the devil" train but I've made them with minimal gaping. And live with it because POCKETS! But these are a special kind of evil.

They extend so far down the hip line that if you are curvy in any.way. you're not going to be happy. 

b) That isn't a waistband. That's a waistband facing that's then topstitched down.

I made a pair of waistband-less faced pants for my daughter (from the 11/2015 Burda) and hated the application. I still hate it.

c) Since that is NOT a waistband, you have to start the zipper at a certain point to leave room for the button. I thought it was weird that a 7" zipper fit kind of perfect. Sigh. But by the time I figured this out there was no way I was ripping it all out to lower them. I was fairly sure at that point that I wasn't going to wear them.

d) Most importantly...I missed a BIGGIE. Look at the modeled photo...

They're intended to be worn low, on the hip.

Ah crap. I don't wear low rise pants. I have too much 37 year old, mom of 2 belly fluff to even consider low rise bottoms!

So yeah, in summary, before starting, this isn't a good pattern for me.

Okay, the specifics:

1) My size 16 SA Sandra jeans are too big. As in, I can slip them on and off without unzipping them. The pdf came with 12, 14, 16 and I decided to print the size 14 and after taking flat pattern measurements at waist and hip, was feeling good.

2) Muslined. I have had "this issue" before with muslins. I don't think they're "useless" but I think if you aren't using something very close to the weight, texture, drape, etc of your intended fabric then...the story isn't complete. The muslin was too tight. I opened the side seams and inserted panels.

Standard shortening of the front crotch and based on the back fit (look at the inseams riding up), I decided I needed a full inner thigh adjustment.

I have done a fish eye dart before and thought maybe that would help and pinned it out:

It didn't seem to help much so I thought it must just be the fabric getting hung up on my thick thighs.

I fussed around with the muslin and did some other stuff, and decided to go ahead and sew my cotton sateen from Sawyer Brook (whine). I really loved this color -- it's an olive-y brown -- and I splurged (for *me*) on this fabric at $14.99/yd. I had 1.5 yards with the intention of making a jean-style skirt. And I am a little disappointed to have it used it for these. WAH!

I had to remove ALL of that additional width I added. It wasn't needed. The front looked good...

...and then the back. What.The.Hell.Happened. 

I pinned out excess here, as I would with a FED and it seems like it would've helped. It isn't perfectly pinned but it doesn't look as bad as the unpinned leg (left). 

Once I realized they were supposed to sit lower, I had a ton of extra fabric in the yoke area. On my Sandra jeans I also had to take a hefty horizontal fold out of the yoke. So it isn't surprising.

But no matter on all the fitting because I just don't like the style.

I don't know what made me WANT these so badly! I have always stayed away from bermudas...Because even when I was 40 lbs lighter, I still had thick thighs. 

While I'm relatively straight from waist to thigh, my thighs are really curvy...

And thus I tend to prefer shorts that go *right* to the fullest part (~3.5" inseam) or just past it (the green line) at about 5" inseam.

Eg: My S1430 shorts:

3.5" inseam

And slash pockets that aren't horribly gaping open.

5" inseam

Looking at these photos I realized I never made the shorts again because I couldn't figure out the front. Well, these were made almost 2 years ago (I still wear the denim pair) and NOW I know that I just need to shorten the front crotch! yay! :)

So all that to say...for the contest I'll be switching out the SA Jennifer for S1430, with the longer inseam, and copying the side slit (I like that detail)

Cute!

Well tomorrow is the start of the contest!! I won't have much if any time to sew the next TWO weekends (I know!), so I think I might knock out a couple of easy projects first. 

I want to make these shorts very good and very detailed (back welts, belt carriers, etc) so I might save them for my day off on President's Day.

Aaaand Sometimes we Fail...

Sigh. I knew I should have used my limited weekend sewing time to work on my dress but did I? No. No I did not.

I decided I had an hour Friday and 2-3 hours Saturday and a couple hours Sunday to sew. I knew I could get the dress complete. Yet I couldn't get the Style Arc Edith off of my mind.

It was the September freebie and totally pushed me to make my first ever SA paper pattern purchase.
I wanted the view with short sleeves and decided on a little color blocking...And then, Sue sewed it up (here) and I was sold. We have very similar tastes in patterns  and typically take the same size in tops and jackets (so many times I check her blog first to see if she reviewed a pattern!). When I saw that she'd sewn a size 12, I was happy - yay! That's what size I'd ordered.

Now, let's just make a list of how things went wrong.

1) Rayon challis. I have sewn challis a bunch. I like it. I have never, ever (EVER!) successfully sewn a solid colored rayon challis. So weird. But I made a TNT top (M6519) out of a teal challis and it was just wrong. Droopy and lifeless. Even though my 2 previous versions were challis as well. When I tried to make the white In-House top with white challis? Disaster. I cut the buttons off and tossed that thing. And now, this pretty pumpkin challis? MEH!!!!!!

2) Style Arc does not give very good directions. IMO it is much different from Burda. Burda may have you scratching your head and thinking 'what the hell?', but generally they give you all the info you need to get it done. Their instructions are generally very terse but you can manage. SA seems to just not give good info. AND people have noted some issues with drafting, etc.

2a) There were no directions to reinforce the area where you clip for the placket. Well, that's not a good idea. I did so anyway.
2b) The pocket flaps were too small for the pockets. I cut my pockets out, squared them back up before pressing seam allowances, etc. Both had a 3/8" seam allowance yet my pocket was wider than my flap. I was going to redo the flaps (easier than redoing the pockets), but thought I could just line the side seams up. Well, this resulted in droopy, saggy, wrinkly pockets.

3) I didn't do my reinforcing stitches wide enough so my front bands don't overlap perfectly. If those lines had been there, this probably would have been the best placket ever. There was some good here and I think if I ever attempt another placket (HA!) I will do it this way.

3a) The entire band is interfaced. The last one I did had separate band and facing and the facing wasn't interfaced.
3b) They have you finish the bottom of the placket (which is usually one of the biggest headaches) and when you go to finish the bottom you sandwich the little triangle between the two bands. This was so clean compared to 'normal' methods given on patterns!
3c) They instructed you to turn up both seam allowances. I didn't (and wouldn't) do this. Only do it on the 'facing' part. Stitch it, press the fold in place, stitch in the ditch.
3d) I liked the periodic horizontal stitching to secure the bands.

Okay, there is a lot about this top to like.

4) Soooo I have this silky soft poly crepe that I wanted to use for the bottom band. This is when the biggest woe began. You fold up the hem on the main part and then sew the bands side seams. You then layer the top over the bottom band and sew the hem in one -- catching both top and band.

Like so:

But in a slippery fabric? Oy! I spent a LONG time...a long time. I tried it 3 times. I tried Wonder Tape (which was a disaster). And then, I gave up.

Nope. Not revisiting this top. I will make the pattern again in something more stable (like a cotton lawn), but I am one of those who will toss it when it isn't working. I sew for fun, this top is no longer fun sewing!!!!

Notes:
1) NO FBA! Sue mentioned she never needs an FBA with SA patterns. This may prompt me to buy more of their tops! :)

2) Definitely need more room in the upper back.

3) Need a tad more hip room. My hip is 44" and so is the patterns.

4) Love the idea of the pockets but idk...Just probably not a great idea on a DD cup unless it's oversized.

5) Screw that bottom band instruction! Sorry. It was just insanely difficult. Next time I will do it "flat".

Before sewing front to back, I will fold up the hem and the band and 'hem' both front band back, and then sew the side seams. This will mean the top layer won't 'float' at the side seams but oh my gosh the headache I endured!!!

6) I was looking at their collar and thinking, Nope. And I just went back to Sue's review and she said she didn't use their collar and just made bias for the neckline. Yep. LOL! That's what I will do next time.


In other news...

My B5678 is finished and awaiting buttons and I think it's SO pretty!!! I cannot wait to wear this shirt!

The pretty scarf draped over was a $5 find at JC Penny! It may be more spring than fall/winter but it's pretty and it's blue!!!

Gail over at Today's Agenda is hosting a blazer sew-along using her TNT M6712. I have wanted to sew a blazer and get intimidated. I really do want to sew one and have a piece of fabric in stash that could serve as a great wearable muslin (e..g, I will actually muslin it but assuming v.1 isn't perfect, this fabric is wearable yet it isn't beloved).  I am thinking I might tackle it over the long Thanksgiving holiday.

I don't like cooking for Thanksgiving so I told my husband I will do on a year, off a year and this is my off year. We'll have dinner with family and I'll bake (I LOVE BAKING!) but this way I'll be free to relax a bit, and SEW! :)

In the meantime, I found a serviceable black blazer from the thrift store. The shoulders are a bit wide and the sleeves are too short, but otherwise I like the fit. It is an older style, I think you can tell, but I don't think it looks outdated. 

I don't know what the heck that face is but I decided it was worth publishing, as is! lol!!!

Luckily, rolled up sleeves are in.

A Finished Item, A Wadder and a WIP

hmmm....wadder first??

So, when the new McCalls were released, i was all excited and knew I had to make the little top in 7046.

When they went on sale last week at Hancock, I ran and grabbed this one (I didn't buy any other patterns at the sale though!)

I decided to use the not-too-nice feeling jersey from one of the recent FM orders.

This pattern has some serious negative ease! I cut a size 16 (finished bust of 37.5", mine is 39.5") and sewed 3/8" side seams. Now, I realized after the fact that this jersey isn't very stretchy...so that is a contributor, but holy smokes this thing was tight!!!

And surprisingly, short. The gathering is done from just under the bust to just before the hemline, making it a top you would not pair with low-rise pants!

Even though I knew I didn't like the fabric and probably wouldn't wear it (before I knew you could see what I ate 3 days ago), I finished it nicely. I did a rolled hem on the flutter sleeves (which I like more than I ever thought I would), serged and twin-needle stitched the hem and neckline. I was going to do a neck binding, but this fabric is pretty stable.

The fabric is pretty but is so scratchy. Wadder-ville. I will FBA it and add a bit to the side seams (because of course I cut the pattern tissue) but I WILL remake this top.

****************

I had a vision of color blocked 'joggers' (sweatpants) and some of my recent ponte from FM has a really nice drape to it (must be the poly/rayon/lycra and not the poly/lycra).

I hemmed and hawed over a pattern and was going to use this Burda plus size pattern from 8/2014

When I went to read the pattern into, I saw that the contrast bands were just rectangles. Ah. Not so complicated - I can do this! Using my good 'ole Simplicity 2061 pattern (which I've made 4 times previously), I cut 2 sizes smaller (size 12 vs. 16) and cut rectangles 3.5" wide. I used a 1/4" seam to connect the panels to the front and back pieces. All other seams were 5/8". 

On the pattern envelope for S2061, the band is larger as it's meant to go around the calf:

And thats how I made my fist pair:

So I didn't account for the fact that I wanted these ankle length so used the longer length of view A, but still used the bands. They kind of puddle around my ankles. My daughter says their cool so... :)

************

Lastly, I decided to use my nice shirting fabric on Burda 7136.

I made both of the above before cutting the fabric for the shirt. I finally started tackling it this weekend and everything was going so well.

I did a 1/2" FBA, a 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment and cut the pattern out. I got the body and collar assembled this afternoon and even did flat felled side seams (after this photo, obviously)! That was a first time technique too!

Now, I had been dragging on starting the sleeves because I've never done a tower placket before. I was afraid of it. But, I decided to get.it.done. 

Nice, right?

But you can probably tell there's a tone here, can't ya?

The damn thing is backwards. The sleeve opening is 'toward' the front. I even double checked that I didn't put the sleeve in backwards. I would be a huge liar if I said it didn't bother me and another liar if I said I was going to undo it - I will not. It's too much. 

But I don't know what to do. :(

Wear the sleeves rolled up, ignoring my awesome placket-ness? It's such a nice shirt.

wahhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

Does Your Stash Ever Overwhelm You?

So...I had the dress pseudo-fail.
Then the Lekala top fail.

Then I wore my M6519 top yesterday and remembered how much I love that top. I made that a few months after I started sewing and it's not perfect but the challis is so perfectly comfortable. I remembered I had a pretty teal jewel-toned rayon challis (Hancock) in the stash. I pulled it out, cut the pattern, sewed the seams (only shoulder seams and side seams) and tried it on.

Huge. Colossal. Tent like.

Huh?

The latest fits NOTHING like any of these. NOTHING. It's huge. And long. It's extra long(?).

AAAARRRGHHHHHHHHHH.

I just need to take it in a bit here and there but it frustrated me. So when I get frustrated with projects, I go clean and organize my room.

There's this

There a LOT of patterns on that cutting table. Way too many.

I had too many things out as "in progress". I can't have 15 patterns in progress. So I pulled them all out and I will put them away until it's their time to be made.

Today I picked up two cheap-o totes because I wanted to put my scraps in one and have a rule that once that bucket is full, they need to be weeded out. I really try not to have leftover fabric unless it's a basic, e.g. black ponte or suiting or white knit. So I don't generate a ton of scraps...but it's hard for me to get rid of big pieces.

Well, this started me down a path of organizing fabric bins.

Coating/jacket fabric 

Shirt/dress/skirt(?) weight fabric

"lighter" weight knits

Heavier knits

Bottom weight

Bottom weight

And there is a bin with fleece and flannel. And there is a box of lining fabrics. And there is a box of "I need to do something to make this wearable but I don't know what and I am not certain that I should even hang on to it but I can't get rid of it just yet"

I had a few, "OH! I forgot about that" moments while organizing. Now, I do not get the warm fuzzies when I find a piece of fabric I completely forgot about. It makes me feel  bad!!! So I am really going to try to not buy any fabric for awhile and to sew from stash. I have more summer sewing plans but know not to go haywire because it is MN after all...

So I'm going to regroup and try to be productive this long holiday weekend.

Soooo, do you stash? Do you get overwhelmed or giddy when you assess the stash? 

Trust Your Judgement

I was so mad when I realized I didn't change the settings for my Lekala patterns. This one I REALLY wanted and pleaded with them to resend it as letter and they did. 

I taped it while I was cooking dinner and knew I could sew up the bulk of the seams quickly on the serger, and do the hems tomorrow. 

Fail. Fail. Fail. 

I entered my measurements correctly. 

I know lekala has little ease. 

Top I saw:

"Oh cute! A fancy tshirt! Should wear easily and those pleats are sweet!"

Instincts:

That neckline looks impossibly small. 

It looks kinda short...

"Mom is that going to go around your boobs??"

Well...this is the top I got

(Sorry for the mirror!)

(I'm CHOKING)

(Yeah. Not gonna cover my entire torso)

1) I reversed the markings and the pleats are wrong BUT that's the least of the problems. 

2) I added 2" to the sleeve circumference and they're still JUST right. 

3) The bust is too small 

4) The neckline is stupid, ridiculously high. 

5) The top is just too short. This is with 1 1/4" added for hem allowance and it's not hemmed!

Fail. Fail. Fail. 

I can take a fail or two. Now and again. Sometimes ;)

Now I have to make something totally awesome.  

I like this fabric. Luckily I have 2+ more yards of it. Maybe I'll stash this to use as fabric for undies when I get around to buying lace. It's SUPER soft.